Sanding .370 shaft to fit .355 hosel

Does anyone know if you can sand down a .370 iron shaft to fit a .355 hosel or will it compromise the strength of the shaft?

I don't think it is possible.

If you are talking about graphite shafts, yes - this is exactly how a .355 taper tipped graphite shaft is made in the factory.

The first 5/8" of the shaft or so are sanded to fit the taper in the hosel.

Do this carefully, remove just enough material to get a snug fit to the bottom of the hosel. You can tell where the shaft is binding in the hosel by twisting it as you sand it and then sand off the shinny parts.

-t

What shaft and what club you are trying to put this on?
[quote name='jmorton' post='814385' date='Dec 6 2007, 08:38 AM']Does anyone know if you can sand down a .370 iron shaft to fit a .355 hosel or will it compromise the strength of the shaft?[/quote]

Flighted Project X into Cleveland CG Red's. The guy said that he thought they were the CG4's which are .370, but they ended up being the CG Red's which are .355.

Buy the right tip size shaft or ream the hosel are the 2 options.

Good Luck!

joe[quote name='jmorton' post='814501' date='Dec 6 2007, 10:10 AM']Flighted Project X into Cleveland CG Red's. The guy said that he thought they were the CG4's which are .370, but they ended up being the CG Red's which are .355.[/quote]

I have seen people cross cut (in an X pattern) the tips of 370's
and crimp them into 355 hosels. Should know excatly what your doing though.
There is a fine line in how deep to cut.

The problem with the cut and crimp method is you cannot keep the sides of the cut shaft in contact with the hosel, so the only part of the shaft that's guaranteed to be in contact with the hosel and therefor holding the clubhead to the shaft with the epoxy is the top 1/2" or so.

This is a very high risk process.

It works in Callaway bore thru heads because the tip pin drives the shaft walls out so they contact the hosel walls.

-t

[quote name='pickerjohn' post='814517' date='Dec 6 2007, 02:17 PM']I have seen people cross cut (in an X pattern) the tips of 370's
and crimp them into 355 hosels. Should know excatly what your doing though.
There is a fine line in how deep to cut.[/quote]
no no no dont do that, like said get the right shafts or ream the clubs

[quote name='pickerjohn' post='814517' date='Dec 6 2007, 10:17 AM']I have seen people cross cut (in an X pattern) the tips of 370's
and crimp them into 355 hosels. Should know excatly what your doing though.
There is a fine line in how deep to cut.[/quote]


Don't try to do that..That is the way to throw away good steel shaft.

The only way is to buy 355 shaft or ream the hosel to 370. Latter is possible. There is hand-held polishing machine in dentistry to polish teeth. You can use same tool to ream the hosel of your irons.

a simple drill press and the right bit and clamp will let you ream out the hosels all day long. The heads will spec slightly lighter, but all the heads should have the same amount of weight removed and thus be a moot point. You may want to dowel the shafts as well to help make up for the lost weight.

IMO when a shaft is more roughed up for installation it compromises the strength. I learned this lesson the hard way. On two set of irons I re shafted I used a grinder to rough the tips for install. BAD MISTAKE, 3-4 of the shafts broke in the hosel because I feel I weakened the shaft tip by doing this. Now I do it bu hand with sand paper, it works well and abrases the tip enough for the epoxy to grab to. PLEASE don't grind the .370 to a .355. Bore the heads. Learn from my mistakes.