Fit for a $700 driver - help me dupe it on the cheap!

Fit into a 2017 M1 ($500) with a $200 upcharge shaft (GD AD DI 7x). Unlikely I'm going to shell out $700 for a driver anytime soon. So here are my options:

1. Forget about it and keep my 8+ year gamer (super boring)

2. Wait a year and pick it up for $450 (still boring)

3. Help me create a wannabe version of the clubhead and shaft on the cheap (WAY more fun, perfect for this place)

Here's what I'd need:

1. What is the closest shaft to the GD AD DI 7x? I've seen people argue over blueboards and whiteboards. Any consensus? Or other candidates? Preferably those that can be had for $100 or so

2. What head? Ideally something with some forgiveness and weights I can move out to the toe (or movable screws where I could put the heavy weight on the toe)

This is mostly for entertainment purposes. I challenge the WRX community to put something interesting together so that I make an unneccesary impulse decision.

GO

Why not go with the 2016 version? Most any of the high end heads are within a few yqrds. Buy a DI-7 from BST.

Should be able to put it together for under $350

DI shafts have a different bend profile than the whiteboard. DI has a softer mid section, more like the Diamana Blue. Never got along with the DI-6 or 7 but love the White.

Why not go with the 2016 version? Most any of the high end heads are within a few yqrds. Buy a DI-7 from BST.

 

Should be able to put it together for under $350

Yes, should have addressed this. I've just heard a ton of people say that the original M1 was tough to hit (and that's why so many of the tour pros used a hot melted M2). This is NOT about gaining a bunch of yards - the club they put together for me the other day was an anti-left machine with that stiff shaft and the weight on the toe.

But I will keep this in mind.

I am not a good player -- and I find the 2016 M1 hits just fine. It's very low spin - and a good club.

I think a lot of tour pros used the M2 because they spin rates are stupid low they don't care about the extra few RPMs the M2 adds versus the M1.

That said -- get a used 2017/2016 M1 head and shaft off BST forum -- bang you are done.

Why didn't you tell the fitter you had a budget in mind?

The M1 '16 is the obvious choice. Have you actually tried it? If you are playing off an 8, it should not be hard to hit.

I thought the '16 M1 was easier to hit than the M2, and felt better to me. Tried them both in the same shaft (fuji speeder 661 eve stiff) and got better results on the course with the M1. This would of course, be the obvious choice here. I have not hit the new ones but the '16 M1 heads can be found for less than $200 which makes finding a good shaft a little easier on the wallet, too.

When I went for my fitting, I was fit into the Ping G/AD MT6s... after all was said and done it would have been like $1000!! So I feel your pain... I found the MT6s here on the BST for $130 and got a G30 setup for half the price of the G and just swapped the head... All in all, less than the newer G alone and it was a good set up but I am too much of a ho to stick with anything too long.... but it can be done for a lot less money is the point.

Why didn't you tell the fitter you had a budget in mind?

The M1 '16 is the obvious choice. Have you actually tried it? If you are playing off an 8, it should not be hard to hit.

Should have done so. Didn't expect him to go to straight to an upcharge shaft and only realized the +$200 after the fact. My bad but nothing I can do about it now.

Handicap ticked up to a 9 last year - but if the 2016 M1 isn't as temperamental as others (like the SLDR) then it may well be a good option. thx

As someone said earlier, pick up a 2016 M1 and 7x shaft off the bst or eBay.

Pro's play the M2 for added spin. With tour heads and hotmelt they can achieve draw, fade bias similar to the sliding weights.

I've hit both and found the 2016 M1 will stay in the bag in another year.

Why not go with the 2016 version? Most any of the high end heads are within a few yqrds. Buy a DI-7 from BST.

 

Should be able to put it together for under $350

 

Yes, should have addressed this. I've just heard a ton of people say that the original M1 was tough to hit (and that's why so many of the tour pros used a hot melted M2). This is NOT about gaining a bunch of yards - the club they put together for me the other day was an anti-left machine with that stiff shaft and the weight on the toe.

 

But I will keep this in mind.

Wellllllll,,,,,, you've left out a lot of details (SS, launch, spin rates) but since your looking at a "7X" one has to assume your club speed is on the high side.

The Tour AD DI is a high launch, low spin shaft, something some people on WRX have said is impossible. Anyway I guess one must assume you're a low ball hitter and want some extra launch.

The Whiteboard you mention is a LOW launch shaft, not comparable to the DI. The Blueboard is a mid launch shaft so again, not really comparable to the DI.

If you like Diamana shafts the Redboard is the higher launch shaft in the "board" series but I'm not sure about the spin rate.

As mentioned you should be able to get a '16 M1 head at a reasonable price and get a shaft separately.

Other recent heads,,,,,,,, Ping G30 LS, Callaway 816 DBD, Titleist 915D3. Should be able to get decent prices on these nowadays.

Hope this helps.

1. What is the closest shaft to the GD AD DI 7x?

This might help

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/507274-poor-mans-ad-di/

I have a tour issue 2016 M1 with Tour ADBB7x I'll make you one hellava deal on......

Here's how I did it. I wanted the 17 M1 440.

Took advantage of Rock BottomGolf 50% trade in special. Sent in two boxes of older stuff that I couldn't sell anywhere. Got enough credit to buy the M1 with a Project X shaft. Posted in the Want to Buy section for AD DI6 (in black too like I wanted), got one for $150. Then sold the Project X for $125.

Cleared out a bunch of old stuff and am set up with what I want for not much out of pocket (other than the who knows how much I spent accumulating all the older stuff I traded in !).

R15 w/ Speeder 7.2

I got a mint 2016 M1 430 off of ebay for around 220, came in with a stock shaft and whatnot. Went to a local discount golf store and found a tour issue Aldila uncut and M1 adapter for 110. After labor the total cost ran just over 350. I hit the 430 better than I did the 460, I would go to a golf shop with a simulator just to see numbers for last years

Dynaflite 420cc 10*...... Accuflex Vizion x..... Lamkin full cord 2006

Did I win the challenge??

'16 M1 w/ GD YS-7+ Stiff.

I never understand why people waste money on going to get fit and not order the driver? If you care about the game enough to get fit and be on a site like this, a custom shaft should be exactly what you're using!

I have a tour issue 2016 M1 with Tour ADBB7x I'll make you one hellava deal on......

thank you, and I like everything about this except for the fact that I do want a higher launch. Don't think the BB is right for that reason. But maybe you have interest in selling just the clubhead?

Here's how I did it. I wanted the 17 M1 440.

 

Took advantage of Rock BottomGolf 50% trade in special. Sent in two boxes of older stuff that I couldn't sell anywhere. Got enough credit to buy the M1 with a Project X shaft. Posted in the Want to Buy section for AD DI6 (in black too like I wanted), got one for $150. Then sold the Project X for $125.

 

Cleared out a bunch of old stuff and am set up with what I want for not much out of pocket (other than the who knows how much I spent accumulating all the older stuff I traded in !��).

I think there is much I could learn from you. Sadly I've already purged almost everything from my backup inventory. But this and other feedback has convinced me that I can make this happen without a big hit. Just need to be opportunistic

Here is another option. You can find 2017 M1 heads only on Ebay for around $350 (saving you $150). Then you should be able to also find the shaft you want for $150 to $200, possibly even with adapter tip. So by the time you are all done, you are around $500. I will add that many of the TM heads sold separately don't come with headcover and wrench, but that usually isn't a big deal.

I really wish the major manufacturers would give us the option to buy at least driver heads separate for a reduced price.

I never understand why people waste money on going to get fit and not order the driver? If you care about the game enough to get fit and be on a site like this, a custom shaft should be exactly what you're using!

Ok decent point, but DI has been around so paying full boat is pretty dumb IMO.

OP email will peoples and see what he thinks. He builds your van stuff for less than 700.

I never understand why people waste money on going to get fit and not order the driver? If you care about the game enough to get fit and be on a site like this, a custom shaft should be exactly what you're using!

I get your point. the reason for my post was:

1. I love talking golf gear and it's fun to eff around like this

2. it's obvious in hindsight but I had crossed off last year's M1 too quickly. lots of clubheads available and that is a terrific option

3. most importantly, I already pulled the trigger to buy the shaft I was fit to (AD DI 7x) and got a good deal on it.

I'll pick up an M1 clubhead soon (either this year or last year's - will think about that) and I'll be all set

Love the forums and appreciate everyone's input

Did I win the challenge??

thanks, but I pulled the trigger on the shaft I was fit for, and will lie in ambush for a 12* M1 head (either vintage). but I like where your head is at

I am not a good player -- and I find the 2016 M1 hits just fine. It's very low spin - and a good club.

 

I think a lot of tour pros used the M2 because they spin rates are stupid low they don't care about the extra few RPMs the M2 adds versus the M1.

 

That said -- get a used 2017/2016 M1 head and shaft off BST forum -- bang you are done.

this is the plan. already picked off the shaft and am halfway home. thx

I never understand why people waste money on going to get fit and not order the driver? If you care about the game enough to get fit and be on a site like this, a custom shaft should be exactly what you're using!

Ok decent point, but DI has been around so paying full boat is pretty dumb IMO.

 

OP email will peoples and see what he thinks. He builds your van stuff for less than 700.

very good feedback. with as much time as I spend searching around for this stuff, I can't believe I had never heard of Will Peoples. quick google search and a lot to look at there. many thx

Everyone,

Thank you all for the feedback. Picked up the AD DI 7x shaft (exactly what I was fit for) last night on BST and will now look for the right clubhead. I am on the fence between last year's M1 and the current version.

Reasons for last year's clubhead: cheaper, I like the look at address slightly more, lots available, doesn't have the (slight) draw bias this year's clubhead does

Reasons for this year's clubhead: more forgiving for only about $100 more (which is nothing if I keep this for a few years), a little more adjustable

stay tuned...

I have a tour issue 2016 M1 with Tour ADBB7x I'll make you one hellava deal on......

thank you, and I like everything about this except for the fact that I do want a higher launch. Don't think the BB is right for that reason. But maybe you have interest in selling just the clubhead?

Shoot me a PM

OK ...I got it DYNAFLITE 420 12*..... ACCUFLEX VIZION X.....LAMKIN FULL CORD

I had almost the same thing. I got fit for the '17 M1 with the MFS5 Black Tie 70x. Loved the feel and flight. I wanted a "NO WAY LEFT" driver and this was it. Then I checked the website and saw that it was a $100 upcharge. Before the fitting, I was thinking HZRDUS Black since I was playing that already and it was a no upcharge shaft. When he put the MFS5 in my hands, I thought it was going to be like the M4 and no upcharge so I went with it. Wasn't until I went to order that I realized it was going to cost more. I got a discount through the ID.me program but still, it would've been more than stock. Went with the HZRDUS Black like I planned and it's perfect. Just probably need to cut it down 1/2". These extra long drivers are killing me.

BTW, the TM guy who fit me said they made the '17 M1 LESS fade biased than the '16 M1 due to staff and consumer response. If you want anti-left, the '16 M1 will give that to you and cost a hell of a lot less than the '17 M1.

I had almost the same thing. I got fit for the '17 M1 with the MFS5 Black Tie 70x. Loved the feel and flight. I wanted a "NO WAY LEFT" driver and this was it. Then I checked the website and saw that it was a $100 upcharge. Before the fitting, I was thinking HZRDUS Black since I was playing that already and it was a no upcharge shaft. When he put the MFS5 in my hands, I thought it was going to be like the M4 and no upcharge so I went with it. Wasn't until I went to order that I realized it was going to cost more. I got a discount through the ID.me program but still, it would've been more than stock. Went with the HZRDUS Black like I planned and it's perfect. Just probably need to cut it down 1/2". These extra long drivers are killing me.

 

BTW, the TM guy who fit me said they made the '17 M1 LESS fade biased than the '16 M1 due to staff and consumer response. If you want anti-left, the '16 M1 will give that to you and cost a hell of a lot less than the '17 M1.

So, just to be clear,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, for $100 you went with a second choice shaft. And one you feel you have to cut down as well ?

Plus, you wanted the most anti-left club you can get, found out the '16 M1 is even more anti-left and a helluva lot cheaper, and yet you bought the '17 ?

Interesting choices made on WRX,,,,,,,,,,, :dntknw: