Ping G - Shorter Driver shaft

So I'm 5'6" with ~34" WTF and currently using a stock Ping G 10.5 driver with Tour 65 Stiff shaft.



On a good hit, I hit a draw 275-300 on a high trajectory. I've always been pretty long but wildly inconsistent. Bad hits hook pretty hard, but I understand that's on me and not the club/shaft.



I am looking to try a shorter driver shaft to add some consistency off the box. I have been choking up lately and have seen improvement, but hate the way it feels to choke up on the club. I have thought about butt cutting the Tour 65 but it is an upgraded shaft and don't like the idea of altering it for an experiment, so I'm looking at buying a new shaft, custom cut -1.5 or -2" to get the length down to 43.75-44". I figure this way if the experiment works I can resell the Tour 65 in an unaltered state.



I understand that I will likely throw off the swing weight by doing this and may need to do some lead tape or put heavier weights in the driver slot.



I'm leaning towards keeping the stiffness the same as from what I have been reading this change may add more stiffness to the shaft overall. I assume the vendor will butt cut the shaft so I think this makes less difference on stiffness versus tip cutting?



Current:



Ping Tour 65 - Stiff - 61g - Low Mid Launch (per Ping website, don't have other stats)



Considering:



Grafalloy ProLaunch Axis Blue - Stiff - 68g - High Launch - Low Bend Point - 3.9 Torque



Project X 6.0 - Stiff - 59g - Mid Trajectory - Stiff Tip - 4.0 Torque



Matrix Ozik HD7 - Stiff - 74g - Low Trajectory - Mid/Stiff Tip - 3.2 Torque



Matrix Ozik HD7 - XStiff - 76g - Low Trajectory - Mid/Stiff Tip - 3.2 Torque (Maybe too Stiff?)



Matrix Ozik CODE-7.1 - Stiff - 72g - Mid Trajectory - ? Tip - 3.2 Torque



These are all sold by seller golf2neone on Ebay and are the cheaper options. Trying to keep the cost down since this may be a failed experiment. This seller offers custom lengths which I am having trouble finding with online vendors.



Also, I did make a post in the pinned shaft thread but haven't gotten a response yet.



Lastly, I do understand the best route is to get a proper fitment but the shops I have called seem to be more keen on selling me their stuff...like a whole new driver + shaft...Unreal! I could go to a BB (Dicks) but don't have a lot of confidence in that.



TIA for any replies/insight, and apologies if TL:DR image/swoon.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':swoon:' />

Comments

  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 22,930 ✭✭
    edited Jul 10, 2017 #2
    Probably will want to go a bit heavier for the shorter length - so that might mean the PX might not be the best option. The idea of a slightly stiffer tip (like the HD7 - probably still stiff) is not a bad idea but you'll never really will know until you actually get one to hit and see how much weight really will be needed.
  • Dr.FrankenputzDr.Frankenputz Members Posts: 699 ✭✭
    Ping dealer should be able to order the same ping shaft for relatively cheap, can order -1" or whatever & further chop down as needed; & a little lead tape till it feels good.



    This would be a relatively inexpensive way to start.
  • billh17billh17 just happy to play Members Posts: 2,844 ✭✭
    All i can say is I cut mine down several years ago. Plays at 43.75 and i would not even consider going back to the

    longer length. It made a change in the weight. It took a couple rounds to get use to it,but i noticed a lot better

    contact more consistently and actually gained about 10 yards , I like the suggestion The Doctor had. It may not work for every

    person,but i would say give it a try.
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  • misplacedtexan83misplacedtexan83 Members Posts: 15,316 ✭✭
    You can buy aftermarket weights at Billy Bob's golf to bring the SW back up to stock.



    1in short = 6 sw = 12 grams weight needed to be added back.



    Definitely go extreme to see if it works because you can always extend it back.



    Some say choke down before cutting but you would still need to add weight for the "correct" feeling.
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  • JPW75JPW75 Members Posts: 275
    Thanks all for the replies.



    A quick update I bought the below shaft off Ebay -2" from standard so the driver is playing 43.75" now.



    Matrix Ozik HD7 - Stiff - 74g - Low Trajectory - Mid/Stiff Tip - 3.2 Torque



    I am hitting it much more consistent but I have noticed a slight distance lost, but too early to tell if that will continue.



    Thanks for the advice on the weights, I will look to get a heavier weight for the slot on the driver, or maybe play with lead tape.



    Where exactly should I put the lead tape to offset the SW? If on the driver head, where exactly?



    Cheers
  • zodiackillzodiackill Members Posts: 1,138
    edited Jul 19, 2017 #7
    I am actually 5'10" and my Ping G is playing at 44.25" and I love it. The accuracy is just incredible. However the distance loss could definitely be swing weight, as when mine was shorter it was wayyy too light. I added lead tape while on the range to find what swing weight felt the best and settled on around d5-d6 and took the lead tape and weighed it to find I needed to add about 13 grams. Then I weighed out 13 grams of Polyfill(white fluffy stuff you find in stuffed animals/quilts, can find at WalMart for $5) to put in the head. Took the weight out of the port just using my Ping wrench, pulled the polyfill into long thin strands to make it easier to put into the head and then used a toothpick to put it in. It took me a couple hours total from start to finish I'd say, but now the weight feels WAY better and putting Polyfill in the head made it sound/feel way better in my opinion. Otherwise if you just want to go the lead tape route just add pieces to the head approximately opposite of each other in order to not make it draw/fade biased, but if you want it more fade biased add more tape towards the toe, for draw bias more tape towards the heel. Hope that helps!
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  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 22,930 ✭✭
    JPW75 wrote:


    Where exactly should I put the lead tape to offset the SW? If on the driver head, where exactly?




    Doesn't really matter much as it's not going to be enough to change the c.g. or bias from the c.g. location.



    Just find a place that's clean and has a relatively smooth surface to give the tape good adhesion and also wont contact the ground on a mishit.
  • vjtexpvjtexp Members Posts: 82
    Cut mine down to 44" from 45.25", didn't notice a difference except I lost some distance. Still erratic. My swing just sucks
  • azkaevolutionazkaevolution Members Posts: 754 ✭✭
    It's not always necessary to add all the weight back...keep adding until it's comfortable. I added weight to mine when I cut it down...ended up taking it off and playing the super light sw.
    [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Callaway GBB (2015) 10.5*, KK Black TiNi 50 R-flex 44.25"[/font]
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  • rsballer10rsballer10 Members Posts: 740 ✭✭
    I like to play my drivers between 44.5"-44.75". Been that way for since I started making clubs.



    I'd just go ahead and add a tip weight if you are using a shorter shaft. Mostly because I'm cheap and TM movable weights are more expensive.



  • Tony BTony B Members Posts: 156
    I had a similar situation last summer... Played a G30 SF Tec, Tour 65 shaft in stiff. Great setup, but wanted a little more accuracy. I couldn't cut the 65 down without totally messing up the swing weight to the point I couldn't find a heavy enough aftermarket weight to replace in the bottom of the G30.



    Instead, I had a Tour 80g Stiff shaft laying around, so I cut that to 44" which helped with the swingweight a bit, then replaced the weight at the bottom of the G30 head to get it back up to about D3-D4. Worked great, found the center of the face better, but did lose just a bit of distance... I think with the shortening and use of the 80g shaft, it played more like an x-stiff, which could have contributed to distance loss as well.



    My adivce, would be replace the Tour 65g Stiff shaft with a 80g Regular flex cut to 44" instead. I think this may work well to get closer to the flex characteristics of the standard length 65g stiff. That was the advice of my fitter last week as well when I went to see him.... he said I may have been better off with the R flex going to the cut down 80g shaft..



    In the end, after some fitting work with this driver, hitting an Epic, Mizuno, M4, Srixon and several shafts, I'm keeping my G30 and replacing the shaft with a 57g stiff Mitsubishi C6 Blue shaft that worked very well for me. Picked up 15-18 yards of carry by improving my launch conditions.. the 80g stiff I was using while accurate, launched too low for me... hopefully I can translate the length to the course!
    Ping G400 SF Tec 9* - Mitsubishi C6 Blue Shaft - Stiff @ 45.25" - SW D7
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  • juggernaut0629juggernaut0629 Members Posts: 968 ✭✭
    I just used a washer that I installed under the existing Ping head weight. Works just fine, & no lead tape needed.
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  • sm_wattssm_watts Members Posts: 633 ✭✭


    I just used a washer that I installed under the existing Ping head weight. Works just fine, & no lead tape needed.




    I liked this idea, so I went down to Ace hardware yesterday and not only got a washer, but also a longer **** to attach it. Washer and 5/8" **** added 7 grams over the original ****.
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  • juggernaut0629juggernaut0629 Members Posts: 968 ✭✭
    sm_watts wrote:



    I just used a washer that I installed under the existing Ping head weight. Works just fine, & no lead tape needed.




    I liked this idea, so I went down to Ace hardware yesterday and not only got a washer, but also a longer **** to attach it. Washer and 5/8" **** added 7 grams over the original ****.




    And a lot cheaper than an aftermarket weight!
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  • JustaHackJustaHack Members Posts: 11
    What kind of swing speed would you estimate is needed for a Tour 80 in Regular at 44 " ?

    Tony B wrote:


    I had a similar situation last summer... Played a G30 SF Tec, Tour 65 shaft in stiff. Great setup, but wanted a little more accuracy. I couldn't cut the 65 down without totally messing up the swing weight to the point I couldn't find a heavy enough aftermarket weight to replace in the bottom of the G30.



    Instead, I had a Tour 80g Stiff shaft laying around, so I cut that to 44" which helped with the swingweight a bit, then replaced the weight at the bottom of the G30 head to get it back up to about D3-D4. Worked great, found the center of the face better, but did lose just a bit of distance... I think with the shortening and use of the 80g shaft, it played more like an x-stiff, which could have contributed to distance loss as well.



    My adivce, would be replace the Tour 65g Stiff shaft with a 80g Regular flex cut to 44" instead. I think this may work well to get closer to the flex characteristics of the standard length 65g stiff. That was the advice of my fitter last week as well when I went to see him.... he said I may have been better off with the R flex going to the cut down 80g shaft..



    In the end, after some fitting work with this driver, hitting an Epic, Mizuno, M4, Srixon and several shafts, I'm keeping my G30 and replacing the shaft with a 57g stiff Mitsubishi C6 Blue shaft that worked very well for me. Picked up 15-18 yards of carry by improving my launch conditions.. the 80g stiff I was using while accurate, launched too low for me... hopefully I can translate the length to the course!




    What kind of swing speed would you estimate is needed for a Tour 80 in Regular at 44 " ?
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 22,930 ✭✭
    edited Feb 26, 2018 #17
    JustaHack wrote:


    What kind of swing speed would you estimate is needed for a Tour 80 in Regular at 44 " ?




    There is NO swing speed requirement for any shaft regardless of flex pr weight. Swing speed might be used as a staring point in the selection process but there are so many other factors than any one from between 70 to over 100+ could end up in that shaft.



    Now it's not common for a truly heavier weight to work well with slower swing speed players (even at that short of a length) but it's not unheard of either and (more importantly) that particular shaft isn't as heavy as it sounds when using the R flex It's only 68 gm. So the '80' in the name is very misleading.



    So don't let anything about the specs keep you from giving it a try.
  • dunndunn Members Posts: 6,361 ✭✭
    Have G30 and chopped it down to 44"



    Only issue is head looks so massive now, it did b4 but now it looks too big to me....i don't hit it that well bcuz of the size....i have M3 cut down as well and hit it better



    When they both were std lengths it was about same



    And I also made up SW in both heads for shorter shaft
  • Pete O'TubePete O'Tube Members Posts: 322 ✭✭
    You could try the Ping Tour 80 shaft at 44".
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  • PigemsPigems Members Posts: 10,882 ✭✭
    I’ve got the G with the Tour 65 in a stiff shaft cut down to 44.25”, it did get a little light but you can get replacement weights on eBay pretty cheap to bring the weight back up. I also have a Kuro Kage Silver TiNi 60x for that head that plays at 44.25”, of the two I like the KK shaft a little better but that Ping Tour shaft is pretty tight for a stock shaft.
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  • ohioglfrohioglfr Municipal Junkie Members Posts: 718 ✭✭
    I don't like long shafts on fairway woods, one reason I had trouble with hitting 3 wood off the fairway. Replaced the original weight in my Ping G 3W with a heavier one, cut the butt down and after regripping, had the swing weight I wanted and the length the same as the 5W. Thinking of doing the same with the 5W.



    Got the weight on eBay (G and G30 weights interchangeable). One poster recommended Billy Bob's . . . they sell quality stuff.

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