It may be that time.......graphite and CBs

Hello my friendly WRX friends. Not been much cooking with the Scootermeister this year - have been lucky to get out for 9 holes a week, and I've been loathe to start reaccumulating clubs after moving last year.

So other than one horrible round with the Hogans (thanks, Alan), and a 9 with a set of Spalding Cannon Advance irons someone gave me, I've been pretty much playing my regular gamers this year.

That being said, I swapped out the Adams D and 3W for a heavy shafted (Fujikura Fit-on) Mizuno MP600 Fast Track driver and F50 3W. Excellent clubs all around, and clear indicators that an ultralight shaft doesn't work for us "feel" golfers.

Game has been fair to mediocre all year (hdcp is at a generous 10 right now) but that should be expected considering how seldom I am getting out.

However, I am wondering if it is time for me to seriously consider moving to graphite shafts versus steel. On a rare day where I play a full 18, my right elbow, left wrist, and left knee end up aching like the dickens the next day. The left wrist is especially sensitive to impact, and will ache for multiple days if I do any digging, or have a few painful mishits.

So I think it is a combination of club weight, how much I torque, and vibration which cause me painful days after golfing.

I'm also being forced to acknowledge that blades may be better as ornaments than gamers, due to the sting of mishits, the absence of vintage blades with impact forgiving shafts, and the fact I'm not golfing or practicing enough to wield them with any skill.

So, for an experiment, I've ordered a set of old Mizuno CBs off if Global Golf (T-Zoid T3 Titanium Insert) with graphite shafts to see if I can stomach playing them. They're not too chunky at address, don't have a way-thick sole, look like they can be worked a bit, and are classy.

The chunky and strangely inaccurate Cobra SZ are now gone.

Anyone else reluctantly made this transition? Any other recommendations for player's CB type clubs that show up affordably on the secondary market with graphite shafts?

I don't experience the nagging elbow and other joint pain since switching to graphite iron shafts a few years back. The UST Recoil 95 shafts are a nice transition from steel. They seem to be available as an option by quite a few club manufacturers, and also have been out for awhile so deals can be had.

I don't experience the nagging elbow and other joint pain since switching to graphite iron shafts a few years back. The UST Recoil 95 shafts are a nice transition from steel. They seem to be available as an option by quite a few club manufacturers, and also have been out for awhile so deals can be had.

Same with me. I play the Recoils as well...great shafts.

As to switching equipment Scooter, the scorecard couldn't care less what you have in your bag. When push comes to shove the game is about scoring not what clubs one plays, or how far one hits the ball. I find by playing the right equipment, and playing the right tees, I enjoy the game a lot more...and that too what it is all about...having fun. :-)

ps: I too was in the doldrums for quite a while. I have been working hard on my game and it's beginning to show. Last five rounds have been in the 70's.

I don't experience the nagging elbow and other joint pain since switching to graphite iron shafts a few years back. The UST Recoil 95 shafts are a nice transition from steel. They seem to be available as an option by quite a few club manufacturers, and also have been out for awhile so deals can be had.

 

Same with me. I play the Recoils as well...great shafts.

 

As to switching equipment Scooter, the scorecard couldn't care less what you have in your bag. When push comes to shove the game is about scoring not what clubs one plays, or how far one hits the ball. I find by playing the right equipment, and playing the right tees, I enjoy the game a lot more...and that too what it is all about...having fun. :-)

 

ps: I too was in the doldrums for quite a while. I have been working hard on my game and it's beginning to show. Last five rounds have been in the 70's.

Nicely put, spot on. :good:

The older Titleist 762 irons with Graphite Design GAT shafts are a great combo in a players cavity with a solid consistent, graphite shaft.

I don't experience the nagging elbow and other joint pain since switching to graphite iron shafts a few years back. The UST Recoil 95 shafts are a nice transition from steel. They seem to be available as an option by quite a few club manufacturers, and also have been out for awhile so deals can be had.

 

Same with me. I play the Recoils as well...great shafts.

 

As to switching equipment Scooter, the scorecard couldn't care less what you have in your bag. When push comes to shove the game is about scoring not what clubs one plays, or how far one hits the ball. I find by playing the right equipment, and playing the right tees, I enjoy the game a lot more...and that too what it is all about...having fun. :-)

 

ps: I too was in the doldrums for quite a while. I have been working hard on my game and it's beginning to show. Last five rounds have been in the 70's.

Same here ... went to the Recoil 95's this year and I haven't missed steel shafts at all.

Thanks for the replies guys. I just got back from the driving range and was chatting with the pro. His feedback was unequivocal - if you are hurting from playing golf due to ageing/impact pain, don't wait. He also let me know that he has seen dozens of golfers who stubbornly refuse to change, and who develop chronic niggling issues due to this.

Funny Mitchell that you mentioned the Titleists - I was going back and forth between the Mizuno and some DCI oversize, but was looking at the 762 as well. Problem was proper flex, shaft, and set makeup wasn't available right now.

Good to read a post from you again Scooter. Aches and pains can be annoying at the minimum, depilating to one's game and life at the other end. Always tricky with the "recommend me a set of clubs" posts. Everyone is so different as to their likes and preferences. And you did not mention any cost ranges, not like its any of my business. "Affordable" is a relative term. Perhaps its time to consider the next set of irons an acquisition for current and future playability. Invest the time, research and trial to zero in on a set that you can live with for the next 10 -15 years.

WTS. Maybe something in the Ping I series. Especially if one is more of a digger, and can affectively manipulate the sole bounce. Regularly can be found with graphite shafts. The stock Ping graphite is reputed to be pretty decent. Have returned to playing my i20's. (CFS steel) this year more than I care to admit in these chronicles. IIRC, you're not adverse to playing a set of Ping irons.

Also, consider utilizing hybrids or high lofted fairway metals in place of irons. That's the direction I have taken with club utilization from 150 and beyond. So much easier to hit than the corresponding iron. I've flip-flopped on my preference, sometimes hybrids, currently on a fairway metal stretch. Have a 24* 9w that is money from 150 - 160 depending on how I grip it.

Ball don't care what it gets hit with. Neither does the scorecard. Make it easy on yourself. Good luck, keep us posted, don't be a stranger.

P.S. - Agree with you on the ultra LW shafts in D's. Could not feel the clubhead, sprayed the ball everywhere. Current D has a 65g shaft, not a heavyweight by any stretch. But so much more consistent with tempo and direction.

Scooter!

I wholeheartedly agree with the pro. Make the change to graphite.

And.... you don't have to switch away from blades of you don't want to. Reshaft a set of your choosing and off you go. Unless you really want to make it a double switch, so to speak. No hatin' here. ;)

Last few years, I've been feeling something similar, the sound of the footsteps of an impending switch to graphite. Fortunately, the modern world of graphite iron shafts is such that there are significantly better options than in the past.

I did some demo club experimentation, and took the plunge, reshafting a set of Golden Rams with Aldila NV105 shafts. I am finding the graphites have made my elbows and wrists feel infinitely better post-round. I've also noticed a considerable improvement in the effect on mishits, they're noticeable but no longer painful.

I wasn't sure about the weight, but I've adjusted fairly well, and fairly quickly, to the 20-25g drop in shaft weight. I may have even picked up a hint of distance, but I'm trying to tweak the swing, and that has to be part of that equation, also.

I say do it. :)

Scott,

Good to hear from you my friend. I think sometimes we, on this forum, at times to our own detriment, get a bit too antsy 'bout only playing the vintage stuff, when in reality, life, and, the moans and groans of aging should dictate playing the game with a degree of sensibility.

After all, we, at least the vast majority of us, do not have our names on our bags, and play the game for the pure enjoyment we receive.

I say whatever "allowances" one makes, in club, or tee box selection, that allows them to continue that enjoyment should be of no consequence.

Hello my friendly WRX friends. Not been much cooking with the Scootermeister this year - have been lucky to get out for 9 holes a week, and I've been loathe to start reaccumulating clubs after moving last year.

 

So other than one horrible round with the Hogans (thanks, Alan), and a 9 with a set of Spalding Cannon Advance irons someone gave me, I've been pretty much playing my regular gamers this year.

 

That being said, I swapped out the Adams D and 3W for a heavy shafted (Fujikura Fit-on) Mizuno MP600 Fast Track driver and F50 3W. Excellent clubs all around, and clear indicators that an ultralight shaft doesn't work for us "feel" golfers.

 

Game has been fair to mediocre all year (hdcp is at a generous 10 right now) but that should be expected considering how seldom I am getting out.

 

However, I am wondering if it is time for me to seriously consider moving to graphite shafts versus steel. On a rare day where I play a full 18, my right elbow, left wrist, and left knee end up aching like the dickens the next day. The left wrist is especially sensitive to impact, and will ache for multiple days if I do any digging, or have a few painful mishits.

 

So I think it is a combination of club weight, how much I torque, and vibration which cause me painful days after golfing.

 

I'm also being forced to acknowledge that blades may be better as ornaments than gamers, due to the sting of mishits, the absence of vintage blades with impact forgiving shafts, and the fact I'm not golfing or practicing enough to wield them with any skill.

 

So, for an experiment, I've ordered a set of old Mizuno CBs off if Global Golf (T-Zoid T3 Titanium Insert) with graphite shafts to see if I can stomach playing them. They're not too chunky at address, don't have a way-thick sole, look like they can be worked a bit, and are classy.

 

The chunky and strangely inaccurate Cobra SZ are now gone.

 

Anyone else reluctantly made this transition? Any other recommendations for player's CB type clubs that show up affordably on the secondary market with graphite shafts?

Scott, you're so welcome! ? It's good to hear from you again! I'm glad the snow finally melted in the Great White North.

Thanks for more good feedback, gents.

Fella, I'm keeping the budget at <$150 for now to test proof of concept. My only other experience with graphite shafted irons was miserable, a set of Nickent with UST SR2 shafts in them. Boardy, no feedback, and full of dispersion issues.

That being said, although I appreciate the Ping suggestion, I hit the Eye 2s at the range today. I decided that despite their effectiveness, the aesthetics and offset are a little too much for me.

And I will be "investing" in a good fit set over the next few years, but not quite yet.

Randy, good to see you as well. And no, I try not to be pedantic about the clubs I play. Going vintage a few years back was a great way for me to recapture love for the game. Unfortunately, my resistance to change is based more on pridefully fighting the vargarities of ageing, not an absolutism on club selection.

Bunny man, I'm not opposed to playing graphite shafted blades, but my current play frequency does not do the blades (or myself) justice. My only blade round this year was at Alan's suggestion (thanks, Alan) and it was poor and frustrating.

Thanks again to all the posters who also suggested recoils as well. When I'm ready to spend a little more, this will be the first option I look at.

I've been boring these boards over the past few months with my whining about forged vs cast and other such grave decisions. But ever since I decided to focus on forged, mainly as a feel and focus tool, I have never been happier or more addicted to the game, or to practicing.

But at 67, I too have aches and pains. Tendonitis in the wrists, shoulder tweeks, stiff here and there, not to mention a restricted swing that I deny!

You've inspired me to go graphite. The Hogan Apex Edge channel back irons I play echo a number of today's designs, give good feedback, and are very forgiving with minimal offset, thickness that you don't gag on, and a sweet sweet feeling. I love the Apex Plus and Apex Edge Pros too, but they don't tolerate off-center hits very well.

I've tried the Ping Eye 2s as well (have three awesome sets) but the offset is crazy. I recently sold my Titleist 716 AP1 and 710 AP2 sets. AP2s were best, but I immediately didn't like either, just didn't like looking at them, and in driving range tests with a ton of balls, the Hogans were more accurate for me.

So I'm seeking either new/used clubs altogether, or deciding to reshaft the Hogans with graphite (which others have told me doesn't work so well, although I don't know why it wouldn't. They'd aren't light clubs).

I'd buy a set of Srixon or Mizzys if I had the $ or someone wanted to barter, so for now that is out. I'm searching eBay for clubs.

Thanks for the tip on shafts. I'll be watching this thread for updates.

Oh BTW, the 762s look a lot like the commercially popular Hogan Edge irons from '89. I have two sets of those, maybe I'll give them a ride.

For a good bargain hunt kind of item... I'd be looking for set of Nike Covert Forged 2.0's with graphite or Cleveland 588 TT with graphite.... both of those clubs were so underrated it isn't funny.

Hello Scooter, long time...

Well, there must be something in the wind for I too have switched to graphite in my irons. I got back from the USHO in DelMonte and got my "modern" clubs out of the garage after months of playing only hickory. Played one round with my stiff steel Tommy Armour 845s and the voice inside my head said "dude, you are 60 years old now, perhaps something a little more user friendly is in order". Emailed Tim, my club guru who had a set of new graphite shafted component irons that he had built for a guy who ended up playing them once and returned them for another set. He suggested I give them a try. Really nice looking heads, graphite firm shaft. Tim and I worked out a deal and he sent them to me. I have been playing them for the past three weeks and really enjoying the experience. They are just easier for me to swing. They feel great and are surprisingly straight as well. I might be hitting them a half a club farther, nothing earth shattering there, but I am definitely hitting them consistently solid with less effort. I never thought I would ever play graphite in my irons, but I have "gotten over myself" made the switch and am happy I did.

I play a lot of hickory so that bag is always there for me when I want that sort of experience and at 5800 yards, no problem. I think, however, when I play modern golf with my regular crowd at 6600 yards...well, actual honest to goodness modern clubs are a good choice for me.

I don't experience the nagging elbow and other joint pain since switching to graphite iron shafts a few years back. The UST Recoil 95 shafts are a nice transition from steel. They seem to be available as an option by quite a few club manufacturers, and also have been out for awhile so deals can be had.

 

Same with me. I play the Recoils as well...great shafts.

 

As to switching equipment Scooter, the scorecard couldn't care less what you have in your bag. When push comes to shove the game is about scoring not what clubs one plays, or how far one hits the ball. I find by playing the right equipment, and playing the right tees, I enjoy the game a lot more...and that too what it is all about...having fun. :-)

 

ps: I too was in the doldrums for quite a while. I have been working hard on my game and it's beginning to show. Last five rounds have been in the 70's.

 

Same here ... went to the Recoil 95's this year and I haven't missed steel shafts at all.

Not to hijack, but this is encouraging as I just received my order of Recoil 95's from GolfWorks. They'll be going into the Z-Stars this week.

I

I don't experience the nagging elbow and other joint pain since switching to graphite iron shafts a few years back. The UST Recoil 95 shafts are a nice transition from steel. They seem to be available as an option by quite a few club manufacturers, and also have been out for awhile so deals can be had.

 

Same with me. I play the Recoils as well...great shafts.

 

As to switching equipment Scooter, the scorecard couldn't care less what you have in your bag. When push comes to shove the game is about scoring not what clubs one plays, or how far one hits the ball. I find by playing the right equipment, and playing the right tees, I enjoy the game a lot more...and that too what it is all about...having fun. :-)

 

ps: I too was in the doldrums for quite a while. I have been working hard on my game and it's beginning to show. Last five rounds have been in the 70's.

 

Same here ... went to the Recoil 95's this year and I haven't missed steel shafts at all.

 

Not to hijack, but this is encouraging as I just received my order of Recoil 95's from GolfWorks. They'll be going into the Z-Stars this week.

The clubs I use cost me $40. How much are the shafts? :)

Tim, the Recoil 95's cost > $40 per shaft.

The clubs they will be mating with cost $225 +/- (used); since I generally carry just 2-3 irons in a minimalist set-up, my out-of-pocket is lower.

The offset or (savings) will be in ibuprofen, visits to physical therapists, and reducing the amount of crap my wife dreams up for me to do when I'm home since I have so much "free time".

Some older options you can find out there cheaply:

Maxfli Rev Blacks came in stock options of TT DG steel and TT EI70 Graphite. If you can find a set with the latter in suitable flex, you will be pleased with the set up and results.

Titleist DTR - you mostly find these in steel, however, the stock graphite options included Swix Performas. The DTR doesn't quite fit your spec, however the Performas could be pulled and put into something else. The Performas are a seriously good shaft, considerably ahead of their time.

Older Daiwas with the brownish/black whisker shafts. This was the high end graphite install in Daiwas forged and soft cast heads (NOT the hard castings like the HiTracs, Midplus, SRX etc).

Older Marumans with the orange or powertrans shafts.

Any of those graphite shafts will offer what you want and will have a decent heft. You'll probably also find a decent player's CB attached to them. If not, the shafts are great for reinstall in your chosen head, giving you a premium shaft (that still stacks up today) for a small outlay.

Nippon 90's, A very good graphite shaft is the Arthur Xcalibur. I have the .355 shafts in Hogan apex edge dual pocket cavity back, nice combo.

Well, thanks for the suggestions all.

Based on the GAT suggestion above, I cancelled my order for the Mizzy T-Zoid T3, and instead ordered a set of Titleist 755 with the GAT 95 shaft in R flex from Global Golf. Sounds like the 755 was designed specifically for me - a good mid-handicapper club, with some feel and control, yet also high-launching.

Of course, since I need to pay for shipping to Canada already, I threw in a a few extra Titlist clubs (909D, 909 3W, 909 3H) to round out the set. Amazing that a modern club with a Mitsubishi Blue Board shaft in it can be picked up for under $25 (even if the shaft is a "made for").

Not sure I'm ready to retire my Jeff Sheets MacGregor VIP wedges yet.

And of course, I now blew my <$150 budget, but as we've all learned in life, it's sometimes better to spend a bit more to get the "right" thing.

Thanks for the feedback all - I'll report back once I get the clubs and have an opportunity to hit them.

Tim, the Recoil 95's cost > $40 per shaft.

 

The clubs they will be mating with cost $225 +/- (used); since I generally carry just 2-3 irons in a minimalist set-up, my out-of-pocket is lower.

 

The offset or (savings) will be in ibuprofen, visits to physical therapists, and reducing the amount of crap my wife dreams up for me to do when I'm home since I have so much "free time".

LOL, you are spot-on!

Those mid-2000's Titleist are some of the best made. 735, 755,775. I still own a set of 775 and they just flat out get up in the air with no trouble. I just never liked the red accent on the 755.

Those mid-2000's Titleist are some of the best made. 735, 755,775. I still own a set of 775 and they just flat out get up in the air with no trouble. I just never liked the red accent on the 755.

I'm with you, Juice. An iron has to look good and hit good. Has to capture your eye and your heart. The red flag on the 755 are horrific to me, lol. Titleist in general bothers me with their looks, including their ball--their name seems crooked to me because it is in script and I can't freaking line it up right.

Anyway, I've tried literally all the Titleist irons up to the 716 AP1 and AP2 and they don't work for me. I LOVE the Mizuno and Hogan forged feel and how they look on the ground. l

Those mid-2000's Titleist are some of the best made. 735, 755,775. I still own a set of 775 and they just flat out get up in the air with no trouble. I just never liked the red accent on the 755.

 

I'm with you, Juice. An iron has to look good and hit good. Has to capture your eye and your heart. The red flag on the 755 are horrific to me, lol. Titleist in general bothers me with their looks, including their ball--their name seems crooked to me because it is in script and I can't freaking line it up right.

 

Anyway, I've tried literally all the Titleist irons up to the 716 AP1 and AP2 and they don't work for me. I LOVE the Mizuno and Hogan forged feel and how they look on the ground. l

I can get over most looks but I can't get over awkward colors, huge offset, or those extra dimples on those new mizuno jpx golf balls. Lol.

Really, looks are secondary to me, as long as the irons aren't all gaudy/toy looking. The red chip on the 755 is a fairly minor annoyance, and notihng compared to the garish colours and designs of most other irons (Rocketballz anyone)?

Main thing is they have a reasonable top line, minimal offset, a traditional squared shape, the ability to work a ball, and the ability to launch high. Heck my Hogan Plus 1 Bounce Sole irons are positively garish with three different paintfill colours.

Really, looks are secondary to me, as long as the irons aren't all gaudy/toy looking. The red chip on the 755 is a fairly minor annoyance, and notihng compared to the garish colours and designs of most other irons (Rocketballz anyone)?

 

Main thing is they have a reasonable tip line, minimal offset, a traditional squared shape, the ability to work a ball, and the ability to launch high. Heck my Hogan Plus 1 Bounce Sole irons are positively garish with three different paintfill colours.

I agree. Over the ball, the crazy cavity designs vanish. But, man, looking at those colors and designs in my bag doesn't make me want to pull them. Apparently, some folks like to remove the plates on the back of the MX-200s for that very reason.

If I missed it mentioned my apologies but one other older CB with a great graphite shaft I'd throw out there is the Yonex Tours (Mickleson bagged them for quite a long time). I have a partial set and if I can scare up the other 2 clubs I'm missing at a reasonable price I'm putting them in play immediately. For some reason for my swing the dispersion pattern with the Yonex graphite seems really, really good!

Hello my friendly WRX friends. Not been much cooking with the Scootermeister this year - have been lucky to get out for 9 holes a week, and I've been loathe to start reaccumulating clubs after moving last year.

 

So other than one horrible round with the Hogans (thanks, Alan), and a 9 with a set of Spalding Cannon Advance irons someone gave me, I've been pretty much playing my regular gamers this year.

 

That being said, I swapped out the Adams D and 3W for a heavy shafted (Fujikura Fit-on) Mizuno MP600 Fast Track driver and F50 3W. Excellent clubs all around, and clear indicators that an ultralight shaft doesn't work for us "feel" golfers.

 

Game has been fair to mediocre all year (hdcp is at a generous 10 right now) but that should be expected considering how seldom I am getting out.

 

However, I am wondering if it is time for me to seriously consider moving to graphite shafts versus steel. On a rare day where I play a full 18, my right elbow, left wrist, and left knee end up aching like the dickens the next day. The left wrist is especially sensitive to impact, and will ache for multiple days if I do any digging, or have a few painful mishits.

 

So I think it is a combination of club weight, how much I torque, and vibration which cause me painful days after golfing.

 

I'm also being forced to acknowledge that blades may be better as ornaments than gamers, due to the sting of mishits, the absence of vintage blades with impact forgiving shafts, and the fact I'm not golfing or practicing enough to wield them with any skill.

 

So, for an experiment, I've ordered a set of old Mizuno CBs off if Global Golf (T-Zoid T3 Titanium Insert) with graphite shafts to see if I can stomach playing them. They're not too chunky at address, don't have a way-thick sole, look like they can be worked a bit, and are classy.

 

The chunky and strangely inaccurate Cobra SZ are now gone.

 

Anyone else reluctantly made this transition? Any other recommendations for player's CB type clubs that show up affordably on the secondary market with graphite shafts?

Hello my friendly WRX friends. Not been much cooking with the Scootermeister this year - have been lucky to get out for 9 holes a week, and I've been loathe to start reaccumulating clubs after moving last year.

 

So other than one horrible round with the Hogans (thanks, Alan), and a 9 with a set of Spalding Cannon Advance irons someone gave me, I've been pretty much playing my regular gamers this year.

 

That being said, I swapped out the Adams D and 3W for a heavy shafted (Fujikura Fit-on) Mizuno MP600 Fast Track driver and F50 3W. Excellent clubs all around, and clear indicators that an ultralight shaft doesn't work for us "feel" golfers.

 

Game has been fair to mediocre all year (hdcp is at a generous 10 right now) but that should be expected considering how seldom I am getting out.

 

However, I am wondering if it is time for me to seriously consider moving to graphite shafts versus steel. On a rare day where I play a full 18, my right elbow, left wrist, and left knee end up aching like the dickens the next day. The left wrist is especially sensitive to impact, and will ache for multiple days if I do any digging, or have a few painful mishits.

 

So I think it is a combination of club weight, how much I torque, and vibration which cause me painful days after golfing.

 

I'm also being forced to acknowledge that blades may be better as ornaments than gamers, due to the sting of mishits, the absence of vintage blades with impact forgiving shafts, and the fact I'm not golfing or practicing enough to wield them with any skill.

 

So, for an experiment, I've ordered a set of old Mizuno CBs off if Global Golf (T-Zoid T3 Titanium Insert) with graphite shafts to see if I can stomach playing them. They're not too chunky at address, don't have a way-thick sole, look like they can be worked a bit, and are classy.

 

The chunky and strangely inaccurate Cobra SZ are now gone.

 

Anyone else reluctantly made this transition? Any other recommendations for player's CB type clubs that show up affordably on the secondary market with graphite shafts?

Hey all,

Received the Titleist 755 yesterday and am able to give a quick review. If we have any traditional blade players looking for a little more forgiveness, you could do a lot worse than these.

First thing I noticed after taking them out of the box was how small the heads were. This looks great at address, where the smaller heads and lack of excessive offset look like a traditional blade. They are surprisingly forgiving of mishits - although you do lose some distance, they still keep the ball in play. Mishits are more heard by the sound they make off the face (clunk) vs a well-struck ball (a blade-like "crack")

The 4i is excellent - used it three times during the round, and found it very hittable. 3i stayed in the garage.

With the GAD 95 shafts, dispersion was very low, and trajectory was reasonably high. As a low ball hitter, this was an important feature for me.

The graphite shafts are different. They certainly mute the feel of a mishit ball, and don't give the feedback you get from steel. They also don't hurt or sting on a mishit ball, something I found very welcome. However, they do feel very "steel" in how they flex, and their overall weight. I was hoping they'd be around a C9 or D1 with the graphite, but they "feel" like D2, same weight for the clubs with steel.

Grips on them were Winn PCI cords that were in poor repair - some softer midsize grips will be going on soon.

Hit 5 GIR, missed the other four by a combined total of 8 yards, and tied my best 9 ever at +1. Could have been my first at-par 9 ever, except for yanking a 4 foot par putt on one hole. Had a feeling I'd regret that one. Also lipped out three birdie attempts. Grrr.

Initial feedback is promising - we'll see how they are once I get them regripped.