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Alpha C830.2 Plasma


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I bought one a few weeks ago and tested it out on a redboard and then rombax. I dont like it... I'm hitting low line drives to left field with it. I even tried teeing it up higher then normal. Maybe I need to give it some more time but I dont think this driver is for me. I do swing pretty slow so maybe that's the reason.

 

I will most likely put it up forsale or on ebay shortly...

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I have an 8.5* w/ a 63-S Whiteboard and it is the longest, straightest driver I have ever hit. I've hit almost anything you can think of, and I've never had more consistent results than with this driver. Maybe it's the shaft, I'm not sure, but it's going to take something serious to knock this out of my bag.

 

No matter if it be Titleist (which I LOVE), Callaway, Ping, TaylorMade, whatever...I could not find any combo that is superior to this. Extremely penetrating ball flight, low spin, so my old "wicked-slices" are now fades, and the occasional snap-hook is nothing more than a slight draw. Even on mis-hits, I don't lose that much distance. Usually, if I mis a driver, it'll be off the toe, and this driver still goes a long ways.

 

If you're looking for a low launch, low spin driver, this is it, look no further.

Ping G400 Max UST Proforce V2
TM M5 15* UST Proforce V2
Callaway Apex UW 19* PX HZRDUS Smoke Black
Srixon ZX5 - 4&5 MMT 105

Srixon ZX7 - 6-PW MMT 105
Edel SMS 50V/54V/58T Nippon 125
Odyssey MXM #1W

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  • 2 weeks later...
how much do you guys think this head with a rombax 5x07 is worth on the used market?

 

thanks

 

The head you won't be able to get much more than $100 for, since not many people have any clue what this club is. The shaft however, I bet you could probably get $125 for it by itself. This head is primarily used in long drive competitions, and to my knowledge, it's the only clubhead that hasn't been caved in. Frankly, the shaft is really the engine behind the driver, so instead of wasting money buying new drivers with stock shafts, get some used pull-outs off this site and start swapping them in until you find something you like. The Whiteboard has a high kick-point, so that produces a low ball-flight, so if you're already hitting them low, DO NOT put a whiteboard in there, it'll just get worse. If you're looking to get a bit more loft and you want a premium shaft, try the redboard, or if you're looking for a good shaft, try the Aldila NVS, as that will produce a higher ball flight as well.

Ping G400 Max UST Proforce V2
TM M5 15* UST Proforce V2
Callaway Apex UW 19* PX HZRDUS Smoke Black
Srixon ZX5 - 4&5 MMT 105

Srixon ZX7 - 6-PW MMT 105
Edel SMS 50V/54V/58T Nippon 125
Odyssey MXM #1W

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Putting together a top driver is a long and arduous process if one seeks the very best results. The mistake which most amateur golfers make is to compare drivers. That process is a complete nonsense. Each variable has to be isolated in order to make any valid assessment. A top driver is a combination of the very best shaft combined with the very best head, with both complimenting each other and your swing: A trilogy of bedfellows. There is no absolute 'best head' or 'best shaft,' only best fitting.

 

There are numerous variables, but let's keep things simple and just consider the combining of shaft and head in simplistic terms. Which should one source first?

 

I consider the best process is to first of all arrive at the best shaft by a combination of custom fitting and experimentation. Each time during shaft testing, of course use the same type of driver head and loft. A head / loft with which you are used to using is a good common denominator when shaft testing. Every shaft must of course be spine aligned etc. into the head otherwise the shaft will not function properly. www.clubmakerschoice.com/page1.html (see video)

 

Once you have chosen the bedrock, i.e. the most suitable type of shaft for either outright distance, or conservative accuracy, or a compromise of both, only then begin experimenting with driver heads / lofts.

 

Please remember a few basics when choosing a driver head:

 

1. World class Longdrive heads are built so as to reduce backspin and encourage run on. So if you try one for the first time maybe go up by either 1d or 1.5d in loft or increase your angle of attack (please see below).

 

2. Which loft is ideal is not only about shafting and swing speed but also about angle of attack. In Longdrive most of us hit the ball off high pegs on the upswing - i.e. an upwards angle of attack. That enables competitors to use very low lofts (in order to reduce backspin) and create additional loft via the attack angle. That promotes the necessary elevation with only half the amount of 'usual' backspin and encourages ball run on.

 

So, the overriding lesson is to get one's technique just as you want it before analysing anything.

 

Hope that helps.

 

P.S. The C830.2 was a head which I extensively tested last year and I would put it up in the top four heads manufactured. One can test heads and reach the conclusion that head 'A' outhits head 'B' by 5 yards. I suggest that such is often a fallacious conclusion. What one has in fact found is that head 'A' has actually 'bonded' better with your individual shaft and swing. So, always take such comparisons with a pinch of salt and do not expect field test results to always match bench test results!

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