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Help needed for M1 driver


alexmyx

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Thinking about buying an M1 driver head off eBay and need some help.

 

I'm currently using a 2016 M2 driver. I have a hard time lowering my spin rate (still working on it though so don't judge yet). In the meantime, I want to get a driver head that gives me low spin rate. So is it worthwhile to switch to an M1? Does anyone have a good comparison between these two in terms of the spin?

 

A broader question is, would it be worthwhile to consider some other drivers such as Epic subzero? I'm thinking about M1 because it's the same adaptor so I can just hook it up to my current shaft. A lot cheaper that way.

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Thinking about buying an M1 driver head off eBay and need some help.

 

I'm currently using a 2016 M2 driver. I have a hard time lowering my spin rate (still working on it though so don't judge yet). In the meantime, I want to get a driver head that gives me low spin rate. So is it worthwhile to switch to an M1? Does anyone have a good comparison between these two in terms of the spin?

 

A broader question is, would it be worthwhile to consider some other drivers such as Epic subzero? I'm thinking about M1 because it's the same adaptor so I can just hook it up to my current shaft. A lot cheaper that way.

 

Your spin rate is too high...is it possible your shaft is the problem? I can find aftermarket shafts with adapters on kijiji for $100 or so.

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The M1/M2 drivers are low spinning. The M1 will allow you to move the weight all the way forward for the lowest spin setting. What you’ll lose, however, is some forgiveness. Since you’re a 25 handicap, forgiveness is more important than spin. Focus on hitting fairways. As long as your spin rate is under 3,000 and you’re keeping the ball in play, you’ll be okay. As you progress into the mid-teens handicap, getting into that 2,000 - 2,400 spin rate range will become more important.

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The M1/M2 drivers are low spinning. The M1 will allow you to move the weight all the way forward for the lowest spin setting. What you’ll lose, however, is some forgiveness. Since you’re a 25 handicap, forgiveness is more important than spin. Focus on hitting fairways. As long as your spin rate is under 3,000 and you’re keeping the ball in play, you’ll be okay. As you progress into the mid-teens handicap, getting into that 2,000 - 2,400 spin rate range will become more important.

 

This is really good advice. Changing from a 2016 M2 to the newer M1 might knock a few hundred rpm's off the ball but the best way to do it is improve your impact position/club delivery.

Taylormade Sim 2 Max - 10.5 Ventus Blue 6X
Titleist TSR3 - @15.75 Tensei 1K Black 75X
Titleist TSR3 Hybrid - @20 Tensei 1K Black 85X

Titleist 620 CB  - 4 iron - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Titleist 620 MB - 5-pw - Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Vokey SM9 - 52.08, 56S  & 60M Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S400
Taylormade Spider Tour X - X3
Titleist - Pro V1

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The M1/M2 heads are low-spinning already but you need the right shaft to match your swing. I had some spin problems with my 2016 M1 with the stock Fuji Pro60 shaft. The trajectory of the ball wouldn't hold a straight line; it would go high then the my usual fade will get into a slice. I had to compensate a lot when I play it on the course. So, I opted to get a different shaft. I bought a used Speeder661 shaft from an R15TP and the ball got into a more predictable, more boring medium-flight trajectory.

[size=2][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Taylormade M1 10.5* - Fujikura Speeder 661[/font][/size]
[size=2][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Tour Edge Exotics EX9 Tour 13* - Diamana S+ 70S[/font][/size]
[size=2][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Tour Edge Exotics CB Pro 14.5* - Fujikura Speeder 661[/font]
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Adams Idea Pro A12 23* - Aldila RIPd VS Proto[/font]
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Bridgestone J36 PC (4-PW) - KBS Tour[/font]
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Nike Engage 56TS & 60S- DG S200[/font]
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Mizuno-Bettinardi BC1[/font][/size]

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