DIY Steel Iron Re-shafting

I have done my own grips for 20 years. Considering doing my own re-shafting for irons with steel. I have researched it and watched youtube videos. It seems like you don't need that much equipment to do irons with steel shafts: heat gun, vice, epoxy, gloves or something to keep you from burning your hands, eye protection, wire brush for a drill, etc.

My chief concerns:

1) What are the common mistakes people make that I am not aware of but should be?

2) Adequately prepping the tip of a pulled steel shaft that will go into the clubs? - sandpaper off old epoxy until its smooth enough ? Is that it?

3) Materially changing the swingweight with too much or not enough epoxy.

4) The club head flies off and is gone forever.

5) Ruining the club head

6) When to know its time for #7)

7) Wasting a lot of time + some money and ultimately paying someone to do this correctly.

It does not look like rocket science - just more a matter of experience. I fix most things around the house and succeed > 95% of the time - everyone has that one DIY horror story... so it goes.

Appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you.

I was super nervous the first time I installed new shafts in my wedges but after watching a few videos I realized there was nothing to worry about. Just let them cure for 24 hours without messing with them and you'll be fine. I've played 6 rounds now with my new shafts and couldn't be happier knowing I did it myself. I've even installed adapters on graphite shafts. Its super easy!

Once you set them in the head, don't touch for 24 hours. I was super nervous hitting my first wedge I reshafted.

Make sure if the irons have a plug in the tip, you drill it out completely. If not there won't be anywhere for the epoxy to expand and the shaft won't seat all the way.

Some things to prepare yourself for...

• Swing weight - Uniform or progressive ( all clubs are same or progressive throughout the set )
  
• Do you have a swing weight scale for above?
  
• When removing the heads from current Irons they may have Tip weights.
  
• Are the new shafts the same weight as the old shafts?
  
• Finishing the Ferrules - Acetone helps - see YouTube
  

I have done my own grips for 20 years. Considering doing my own re-shafting for irons with steel. I have researched it and watched youtube videos. It seems like you don't need that much equipment to do irons with steel shafts: heat gun, vice, epoxy, gloves or something to keep you from burning your hands, eye protection, wire brush for a drill, etc.

 

My chief concerns:

 

1) What are the common mistakes people make that I am not aware of but should be?

 

2) Adequately prepping the tip of a pulled steel shaft that will go into the clubs? - sandpaper off old epoxy until its smooth enough ? Is that it?

 

3) Materially changing the swingweight with too much or not enough epoxy.

 

4) The club head flies off and is gone forever.

 

5) Ruining the club head

 

6) When to know its time for #7)

 

7) Wasting a lot of time + some money and ultimately paying someone to do this correctly.

 

 

It does not look like rocket science - just more a matter of experience. I fix most things around the house and succeed > 95% of the time - everyone has that one DIY horror story... so it goes.

 

Appreciate your thoughts.

 

Thank you.

Your story reminds me of the first time I pulled the heads off my Irons. I put a bunch of them on my kitchen stove, heated them till the heads came off way way easy by holding it in a thick rag and twisting off. One exploded the head off on it;s own, but no problem as it flew into a wall and caused no damage. I used lesser bunches thereafter.

Caution about overheating them. All my fist pull hosels are slightly discolored because of overheating and I didn't notice that right away. I've since learned to heat them just enough so that the head needs a bit of strong twisting to come off but keeps it's color. I've also since collected things like a heat gun and a bench vise which all proved useful. The maid had serious objections to my use of " her " stove and kitchen, but still refused to help me do my clubs. I've since changed maids.

Shambles

A heat gun and bench vise is a must. I couldn’t imagine doing clubs without them.

If you're using pulls: if the bottom of bore to ground distance is different between the old heads and the new heads you can run into club length issues.

Don't need a heat gun for irons, a torch is fine. And don't need gloves. Just take the head off with a towel.

I like to clean off the old epoxy while the shaft is still hot. I ask remove the ferrules before taking off the head and I like to use new ferrules with the new Shafts.

It is a nice feeling once you start. Every club in my bag has now been rebuilt by me. I have done it in an apartment without a workbench. Not ideal, but doable. I plan on building a workbench soon, so that will make it even easier for me to do.

Torch not heat gun

Need swingweight scale and variety of tip weights

Need proper club length ruler to measure club length. The Mitchell is great. Best to measure without a grip.

Use proper 24 hour epoxy and mix well. Heating with clubs/heads up to about 140F will cure the epoxy in 90 mins and make the bond stronger than room temperature for 24 hours.

Remove any old tip weights and clean hosel and shaft tip while parts are hot.

Sand shaft with 100-220 grit sandpaper to prep.

Here are some basics:

http://clubmaker-onl...structions.html

Some things to prepare yourself for...

• Swing weight - Uniform or progressive ( all clubs are same or progressive throughout the set )
  
• Do you have a swing weight scale for above?
  
• When removing the heads from current Irons they may have Tip weights.
  
• Are the new shafts the same weight as the old shafts?
  
• Finishing the Ferrules - Acetone helps - see YouTube
  

I like D2 throughout.

I have access to a scale.

Do I need to drill out or remove the the tip weights ?

new shafts are 120g vs. 130g - assume I should remove tip weights.

Old shafts KBS 130 ctaper X // new shafts KBS 120 ctaper S

not sure what ferrules to get for KBS c-taper 120 S

I have done my own grips for 20 years. Considering doing my own re-shafting for irons with steel. I have researched it and watched youtube videos. It seems like you don't need that much equipment to do irons with steel shafts: heat gun, vice, epoxy, gloves or something to keep you from burning your hands, eye protection, wire brush for a drill, etc.

 

My chief concerns:

 

1) What are the common mistakes people make that I am not aware of but should be?

 

2) Adequately prepping the tip of a pulled steel shaft that will go into the clubs? - sandpaper off old epoxy until its smooth enough ? Is that it?

 

3) Materially changing the swingweight with too much or not enough epoxy.

 

4) The club head flies off and is gone forever.

 

5) Ruining the club head

 

6) When to know its time for #7)

 

7) Wasting a lot of time + some money and ultimately paying someone to do this correctly.

 

 

It does not look like rocket science - just more a matter of experience. I fix most things around the house and succeed > 95% of the time - everyone has that one DIY horror story... so it goes.

 

Appreciate your thoughts.

 

Thank you.

 

Your story reminds me of the first time I pulled the heads off my Irons. I put a bunch of them on my kitchen stove, heated them till the heads came off way way easy by holding it in a thick rag and twisting off. One exploded the head off on it;s own, but no problem as it flew into a wall and caused no damage. I used lesser bunches thereafter.

 

Caution about overheating them. All my fist pull hosels are slightly discolored because of overheating and I didn't notice that right away. I've since learned to heat them just enough so that the head needs a bit of strong twisting to come off but keeps it's color. I've also since collected things like a heat gun and a bench vise which all proved useful. The maid had serious objections to my use of " her " stove and kitchen, but still refused to help me do my clubs. I've since changed maids.

 

 

 

Shambles

I have full access to the garage, the pool equipment, and the grill. I am not allowed to work in "her" kitchen. I love her dearly and there are two kids that I adore and thus I have "given" on the kitchen.

Thx

Torch not heat gun

 

Need swingweight scale and variety of tip weights

 

Need proper club length ruler to measure club length. The Mitchell is great. Best to measure without a grip.

 

Use proper 24 hour epoxy and mix well. Heating with clubs/heads up to about 140F will cure the epoxy in 90 mins and make the bond stronger than room temperature for 24 hours.

 

Remove any old tip weights and clean hosel and shaft tip while parts are hot.

 

Sand shaft with 100-220 grit sandpaper to prep.

Why not a heat gun?

You can use a heat gun as long as its warm enough to break down the epoxy. I prefer a heat gun if I'm saving the ferrules. If you cant control a torch you'll melt the ferrule, turn the shaft a rainbow color, and make the head so goddamn hot you have to wear a welding glove to hold it. For a first timer a heat gun is fine. I have used a hairdryer and a butane lighter as well in my learning days. Hell I imagine you could rub two sticks together and burn some dry grass and get some heads off :)

Heat guns suck for pulling shafts. 15-20 seconds of torch heat directly on the hosel and you can twist off the head using your bare hand. if you want to save the ferrule wrap it in a wet strip of cloth.

Really, 15-20 sec. with my heat gun and it twists off by hand. Head is too hot to touch without gloves. I think you all meant hair dryer, not heat gun. That or you cheapos bought some POS heat gun. I wouldn’t want a torch near my heads or work bench. Liable to start a fire with my luck. Think I have removed 30 irons and 5 adapter tips so far. Epoxy is powder when pulled and dumped out.

Some things to prepare yourself for...

• Swing weight - Uniform or progressive ( all clubs are same or progressive throughout the set )
  
• Do you have a swing weight scale for above?
  
• When removing the heads from current Irons they may have Tip weights.
  
• Are the new shafts the same weight as the old shafts?
  
• Finishing the Ferrules - Acetone helps - see YouTube
  

 

I like D2 throughout.

I have access to a scale.

Do I need to drill out or remove the the tip weights ?

new shafts are 120g vs. 130g - assume I should remove tip weights.

Old shafts KBS 130 ctaper X // new shafts KBS 120 ctaper S

not sure what ferrules to get for KBS c-taper 120 S

You can get 355 or 370 ferrules. From what I understand, there's no noticeable difference and 370 should work on 355 (which is what your C-Taper is).

I've only pulled irons a couple times, but when I tried the heat gun on my irons and what felt like forever to even get anywhere. Ended up just using a torch and was able to pull the head off by hand with a towel. I first practiced on a bunch of random older irons before I eventually tried on my set I play with. I remember having a difficult time practicing pulling a Ping iron shaft. I had to heat it up so much it eventually popped off with a loud bang. Lucky I didn't hurt myself or damage anything.

Remove old tip weights and clean out leftover epoxy from inside the shaft tip. Old epoxy left inside the tip can (and usually does) break away and cause an annoying rattle. Also, if the old epoxy is a solid plug, it will not allow air to move through the shaft when the head is pushed on, and the head will drift off as it cures under the pressure.

For steel shafts and iron heads use a propane torch. The heat gun can be used if a torch is not available but the it takes much longer.

Clean out all of the old epoxy from the head. Make sure all parts are cleaned with acetone prior to assembly.

Get a torch!( heat gun is a waste)...and swingweight scale is must

Make sure all parts are clean b4 assembly....get a .355 reamer ( by hand) and .355 wire brush reamer for drill.....makes it easier and removes almost no metal.....CLEAN, CLEAN CLEAN

All of other stuff mentioned above

Buy ferrules from golfworks, or local golfshop repair guy (.355 )

As you do more clubs you'll get better

And yes pullout need to be careful as different brands have different measurements from bottom of hosel to ground or (BBGM)

And I too have a bag full of clubs I built myself,

Get some good drill bits

After getting most epoxy out, these can help with prep inside hosel: https://www.golfworks.com/hosel-honing-wire-brush/p/gw1060/

Belt sander, makes prepping the shaft tips a breeze, otherwise you're hand sanding :)

You can get collared ferrules from cell-parts.net, otherwise golfworks, grail golf, etc...

You're going to use WAY TOO MUCH EPOXY the first few times. Use shafting beads

Get some good drill bits

 

After getting most epoxy out, these can help with prep inside hosel: https://www.golfwork...brush/p/gw1060/

 

Belt sander, makes prepping the shaft tips a breeze, otherwise you're hand sanding :)

 

You can get collared ferrules from cell-parts.net, otherwise golfworks, grail golf, etc...

 

You're going to use WAY TOO MUCH EPOXY the first few times. Use shafting beads

Shafting beads are only necessary when the shaft does not fit snugly in the hosel. Overuse of shafting beads can have a negative effect on proper epoxy bond.

Awesome thread guys! Much appreciated learning this stuff.

Excited to start doing my own work.

You don't need a swing weight scale. Dry fit everything together and measure total weight. Then find the exact balance point of the club and measure from the butt end. Then subtract 14. Multiply that number with the total weight(usually grams) from earlier. If you want a consistent swing weight, try to make them all as close as possible. My clubs all come up around 6100 to 6130. I admit a swing weight scale is easier, but there is a certain satisfaction in doing it based on this formula.

It is a nice feeling once you start. Every club in my bag has now been rebuilt by me. I have done it in an apartment without a workbench. Not ideal, but doable. I plan on building a workbench soon, so that will make it even easier for me to do.

When I started,I lacked a bench, much less a vise. I went with a Black & Decker Workmate, partially for portability. 18 years later, still using the same Workmate.

Handy thing, it is.

Heat guns can be used but they actually need a greater skill level than a torch because you cannot see where you are applying the max heat. You guess. Regardless, may local club pros still use the heat gun for the convenience of simply plugging in. The torch runs out of fuel when used regularly.

The ferrule always expands when removed and needs a much thinner glue to re apply and also sometimes needs to be shaved and rounded in to fit the outer shape of the hosel. Now that they are much more available than in the past and way cheap, I find it a lot simpler to just keep a supply handy and use new as needed. Considering that you guys are in the states where you can even order by mail, better use new.

Shambles

You don't need a swing weight scale. Dry fit everything together and measure total weight. Then find the exact balance point of the club and measure from the butt end. Then subtract 14. Multiply that number with the total weight(usually grams) from earlier. If you want a consistent swing weight, try to make them all as close as possible. My clubs all come up around 6100 to 6130. I admit a swing weight scale is easier, but there is a certain satisfaction in doing it based on this formula.

I've used this method before and it's accurate...assuming you can measure accurately...and that's no given. A common home depot ruler or tape measure won't get it here; you need to be able to measure accurately down to 1mm or your swingweight will be off.

I did my first set on the clubs i currently play. I'm pretty OCD and it ended up being a lot easier than i made it out to be. golfworks just had their tools sale, which is a good area to get some starter tools needed. even harbor freight for a shaft cutter.

there's an online swingweight calculator you can use. I used it before i got my SW scale and it came out pretty exact. (http://www.leaderboard.com/swingwt.htm)

I got the 24hr epoxy. I don't need tour van epoxy and wanted to make sure it was all set and cured before i swung the club. all has worked fine for me. I bought Bramptons 20/20 epoxy on ebay.

I also got an assorted supply of tip weights from golfworks. always good to have all weights just to make sure.

I made my own club ruler from a thread on here. worked out really well. (http://www.golfwrx.c...b-length-ruler/)

get a hosel wire brush or drill bit. golfworks has one as does ebay.

cellparts has a lot of golf ferrules to choose from. they have some for titleist irons/vokey that almost don't need to be turned down at all. they're pretty close to flush. [M16228-12 Pack] 7/8" Collared Parallel Ferrule .540 is the size.

get some shop towels. good to clean up the epoxy and any mess made.

there's plenty of videos on youtube to give you an example on how to build a set. good luck and let us know how you did.