Jimmy Ballard - The Connected Golf Swing

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Comments

  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    torbill wrote:


    Actually I was referring to the curly haired guy in the white shirt and dark pants.




    Okay, this is Artie.
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    Ripper212 wrote:


    Will be seeing JB next month. I've spent too many years with Jim Hardy around the body swing. JB's teachings seem to be pretty much the opposite if I understand correctly.

    Thanks to Speedster for the contact info.




    You won't regret it, he is a great guy and one heck of a teacher!
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • torbilltorbill Members Posts: 310 ✭✭
    edited Dec 21, 2018 #274

    torbill wrote:


    Actually I was referring to the curly haired guy in the white shirt and dark pants.




    Okay, this is Artie.




    Yes, he is the one whose hip coil I was asking about
  • ggproggpro Members Posts: 558 ✭✭

    torbill wrote:


    Actually I was referring to the curly haired guy in the white shirt and dark pants.




    Okay, this is Artie.






    Best putting lesson ever from Artie!
  • Puttersaurus RexPuttersaurus Rex one swing at a time Members Posts: 526 ✭✭
    Lately, I have been struggling with my swing (too much hands, and lack of firing the hips). I found this thread last week, and have since been digesting and practicing the concepts.



    I went to the range today, and I was able to see some noted improvements when I could fit everything together. For the last ball I set up a little further, slowed down, and tried to execute what I have been practicing. Best struck ball in a long time! Thank you to all that have contributed, and thank you Jimmy Ballard!



    No questions at the moment. I need to get back to practicing!
    I don't always play minimal, but when I do:
    Driver, 5 wood, 4 hybrid, 6, 8, PW, 54, putter
  • naval2006naval2006 ArgentinaMembers Posts: 971 ✭✭
    edited Dec 21, 2018 #277
    This is a question for those who have been doing JB swing for a while. Do you feel your arms and hands soft throughout the swing or otherwise? Do you consciously try to c*ck wrists during the backswing or just simply let it happen naturally as a consequence of swinging back?
  • DonRSDDonRSD Daddy Warbucks South FloridaMembers Posts: 190 ✭✭
    Have a few questions about some missed shots and what causes them / fixes......
    1. TOE IMPACT - I have no clue how /why this happens. How can I fix it?
    2. LOW SHOT - I play the ball center of stance and keep the follow thru low, but the ball still comes out high. How can I keep the ball low for when I am under a tree or need to play a low 7 iron shot to roll up to the green?
    3. HIGH SHOT - I try to finish with a higher follow thru, but I usually hit a "regular shot", sometimes thinned. Anything to do differently to get the ball up and over a tree or land softly on the green with say a 7-8 iron?
    4. PUSH - I seem to have this quite often. Distance is reasonable, but the ball is to the right (not a slice). Usually ends up in the rough or off the green, impacting scoring. What causes this and how can I eliminate it?
    5. FADE - I can hit a draw quite easily based off the JB YouTube video, but how can I play a fade with irons and the driver?
    6. MORE YARDS - my distances are the same as pre Jimmy Ballard swing....just wanted to know how I can gain more power?




    Sorry for the questions, just looking for some reasons as to why things happen and what to do differently.
    Driver: Titleist TS2
    3 Wood: Titleist TS2
    Hybrids: Titleist 818 H1
    Irons: TaylorMade P790
    Wedges: Vokey
    Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 (2018)
  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    edited Dec 22, 2018 #279
    naval2006 wrote:


    This is a question for those who have been doing JB swing for a while. Do you feel your arms and hands soft throughout the swing or otherwise? Do you consciously try to c*ck wrists during the backswing or just simply let it happen naturally as a consequence of swinging back?




    I measure to the ball (AKA hover the club without ever grounding it) then I don't think about the hands and arms.... I like the dog to wag the tail, not the tail wagging the dog. All this means is that I use the big muscles, not the small twitch muscles, they will not work well when the pressure is on. I try to feel like there is no wrist ****, any little bit in there is just purely natural. JB says that any angles created have to be perfectly timed in order to return the club to square which under pressure will not repeat. The less angles you create, the better.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    edited Dec 22, 2018 #280
    DonRSD wrote:


    Have a few questions about some missed shots and what causes them / fixes......
    1. TOE IMPACT - I have no clue how /why this happens. How can I fix it?
    2. LOW SHOT - I play the ball center of stance and keep the follow thru low, but the ball still comes out high. How can I keep the ball low for when I am under a tree or need to play a low 7 iron shot to roll up to the green?
    3. HIGH SHOT - I try to finish with a higher follow thru, but I usually hit a "regular shot", sometimes thinned. Anything to do differently to get the ball up and over a tree or land softly on the green with say a 7-8 iron?
    4. PUSH - I seem to have this quite often. Distance is reasonable, but the ball is to the right (not a slice). Usually ends up in the rough or off the green, impacting scoring. What causes this and how can I eliminate it?
    5. FADE - I can hit a draw quite easily based off the JB YouTube video, but how can I play a fade with irons and the driver?
    6. MORE YARDS - my distances are the same as pre Jimmy Ballard swing....just wanted to know how I can gain more power?




    Sorry for the questions, just looking for some reasons as to why things happen and what to do differently.




    TOE IMPACT - I have no clue how /why this happens. How can I fix it? First you want to make sure that your irons have the correct lie angle, if your clubs are too flat for you, then this could be part of the problem. I fit my irons dynamically which means that I do it while making a full swing. You can use lie angle tape or even black electrical tape on the sole of the club while hitting balls off of a mat (not a lie board, I find that the mind will compensate and not give you an accurate reading). You want to adjust the lie of the club until contact with the ground is dead even with the sweet spot. I am 6'3" with an arm span of 5'11" so my arms are relatively short for my height, therefore my clubs are +1/2" long and 3.5 degrees upright which is where they need to be in order for me to hit the center of the sweet spot. In regards to your swing, if your clubs are fit correctly and you are still hitting the ball of the toe, then you are most likely swing left too much at impact and your weight is moving to the left heel of your foot into and after impact instead of to the toes of your left foot.... you want to release the club down the target line, not left of your target line, so work on getting your weight into the right heel on the backswing and then left toes into the finish!



    LOW SHOT - I play the ball center of stance and keep the follow thru low, but the ball still comes out high. How can I keep the ball low for when I am under a tree or need to play a low 7 iron shot to roll up to the green? Play all standard shots off of the left heel, not center! Jack Nicklaus played all standard full shots off of his left heel, enough said! Even in the short game I keep that same left heel ball position and simply adjust my stance width and weight distribution, including chipping where I simply am more 60/40 with my weight distribution... this enables you to brush the grass and not be so steep where you have a good chance of sticking the club in the ground with the leading edge, instead of using the bounce and brushing the grass. If you are playing the ball center and hitting it high, then your weight isn't transferring correctly and your upper body is probably moving away from the target too much.... at impact you need to learn to cover the ball and get your upper body more on top of your lower body. A good drill that my good friend Paul Azinger showed me 25 years ago was to play the ball about 6" forward than normal and then learn to chase the ball more with your upper body on the downswing, wehn done correctly you will hit the ball solid, not fat.... if your upper body backs up on it, then you will hit it fat all day long. Your can actually address an imaginary ball 6" behind where the actual ball is and then hit balls until you can hit the ball solid like this without hitting it fat. By the way, Paul Azinger was the one who convinced me to start working with JB in 1995, he said "the only teacher besides John Redman (he was Paul's teacher since college when Zing couldn't break 80) who has ever made a player instead of the player making the teacher was Jimmy Ballard!" David Leadbetter started working with Nick Faldo when Nick was already number one int he world, so who made who?



    HIGH SHOT - I try to finish with a higher follow thru, but I usually hit a "regular shot", sometimes thinned. Anything to do differently to get the ball up and over a tree or land softly on the green with say a 7-8 iron? You don't want to think about having a high follow through or a low follow through... you want to have a connected follow through with a full club and body release! When it comes to ball flight, I don't consciously make many adjustments.... if I want to hit it high or low, fad or draw then all I do is think high or think fade etc. I have hit enough balls in my life that my mind controls what my body will do... it really is just simple visualization for me. Maybe that is too simple for some to understand, but I hit the ball pretty straight naturally so moving up/down or left/right is not that hard because I am not fighting a tendency that favors one side or the other.



    PUSH - I seem to have this quite often. Distance is reasonable, but the ball is to the right (not a slice). Usually ends up in the rough or off the green, impacting scoring. What causes this and how can I eliminate it? Stay connected, end of story! I can see why you would fight wiping the ball when you try to finish high as you said before.



    FADE - I can hit a draw quite easily based off the JB YouTube video, but how can I play a fade with irons and the driver? Learn to control your path and clubface then this will be easier. Also, playing the ball off of the middle of your stance with make fading the ball harder... Jack Nicklaus hit a high fade off of a left heel ball position. When Ben Hogan fought a hook in the 1940's his ball was more towards the center of his stance and in the 1950's when his ball striking was spot on, his ball was much more forward in his stance.



    MORE YARDS - my distances are the same as pre Jimmy Ballard swing....just wanted to know how I can gain more power? Do what I said in my previous responses above and once you learn how to control the path and clubface, you will stop hitting glancing blows and the ball will start going further.



    Funny story: When I worked for Jack Nicklaus one of the other guys who worked with us had a bad case of the shanks, we were playing at The Bears Club and Jack dropped one of his balls that had a "Jack" logo on it so the guy could hit another shot after Jack told him what to try in order to fix his shank problem, the guy dead shanked Jack's ball in the woods.... Jack sent the caddy into the woods looking for that ball and said "don't come out until you find it because it has my name stamped on it" LOL. Jack then turned to the guy and said I think I know how to cure your problem, "take two weeks off and then quit!". All joking aside, golf is not an easy game and it takes a lot of work to get rid of grooved tendencies, as Paul Azinger always used to say often, "swings are like fingerprints, they are hard to change".
    Post edited by Unknown User on
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • DonRSDDonRSD Daddy Warbucks South FloridaMembers Posts: 190 ✭✭

    DonRSD wrote:


    Have a few questions about some missed shots and what causes them / fixes......
    1. TOE IMPACT - I have no clue how /why this happens. How can I fix it?
    2. LOW SHOT - I play the ball center of stance and keep the follow thru low, but the ball still comes out high. How can I keep the ball low for when I am under a tree or need to play a low 7 iron shot to roll up to the green?
    3. HIGH SHOT - I try to finish with a higher follow thru, but I usually hit a "regular shot", sometimes thinned. Anything to do differently to get the ball up and over a tree or land softly on the green with say a 7-8 iron?
    4. PUSH - I seem to have this quite often. Distance is reasonable, but the ball is to the right (not a slice). Usually ends up in the rough or off the green, impacting scoring. What causes this and how can I eliminate it?
    5. FADE - I can hit a draw quite easily based off the JB YouTube video, but how can I play a fade with irons and the driver?
    6. MORE YARDS - my distances are the same as pre Jimmy Ballard swing....just wanted to know how I can gain more power?




    Sorry for the questions, just looking for some reasons as to why things happen and what to do differently.




    TOE IMPACT - I have no clue how /why this happens. How can I fix it? First you want to make sure that your irons have the correct lie angle, if your clubs are too flat for you, then this could be part of the problem. I fit my irons dynamically which means that I do it while making a full swing. You can use lie angle tape or even black electrical tape on the sole of the club while hitting balls off of a mat (not a lie board, I find that the mind will compensate and not give you an accurate reading). You want to adjust the lie of the club until contact with the ground is dead even with the sweet spot. I am 6'3" with an arm span of 5'11" so my arms are relatively short for my height, therefore my clubs are +1/2" long and 3.5 degrees upright which is where they need to be in order for me to hit the center of the sweet spot. In regards to your swing, if your clubs are fit correctly and you are still hitting the ball of the toe, then you are most likely swing left too much at impact and your weight is moving to the left heel of your foot into and after impact instead of to the toes of your left foot.... you want to release the club down the target line, not left of your target line, so work on getting your weight into the right heel on the backswing and then left toes into the finish!



    LOW SHOT - I play the ball center of stance and keep the follow thru low, but the ball still comes out high. How can I keep the ball low for when I am under a tree or need to play a low 7 iron shot to roll up to the green? Play all standard shots off of the left heel, not center! Jack Nicklaus played all standard full shots off of his left heel, enough said! Even in the short game I keep that same left heel ball position and simply adjust my stance width and weight distribution, including chipping where I simply am more 60/40 with my weight distribution... this enables you to brush the grass and not be so steep where you have a good chance of sticking the club in the ground with the leading edge, instead of using the bounce and brushing the grass. If you are playing the ball center and hitting it high, then your weight isn't transferring correctly and your upper body is probably moving away from the target too much.... at impact you need to learn to cover the ball and get your upper body more on top of your lower body. A good drill that my good friend Paul Azinger showed me 25 years ago was to play the ball about 6" forward than normal and then learn to chase the ball more with your upper body on the downswing, wehn done correctly you will hit the ball solid, not fat.... if your upper body backs up on it, then you will hit it fat all day long. Your can actually address an imaginary ball 6" behind where the actual ball is and then hit balls until you can hit the ball solid like this without hitting it fat. By the way, Paul Azinger was the one who convinced me to start working with JB in 1995, he said "the only teacher besides John Redman (he was Paul's teacher since college when Zing couldn't break 80) who has ever made a player instead of the player making the teacher was Jimmy Ballard!" David Leadbetter started working with Nick Faldo when Nick was already number one int he world, so who made who?



    HIGH SHOT - I try to finish with a higher follow thru, but I usually hit a "regular shot", sometimes thinned. Anything to do differently to get the ball up and over a tree or land softly on the green with say a 7-8 iron? You don't want to think about having a high follow through or a low follow through... you want to have a connected follow through with a full club and body release! When it comes to ball flight, I don't consciously make many adjustments.... if I want to hit it high or low, fad or draw then all I do is think high or think fade etc. I have hit enough balls in my life that my mind controls what my body will do... it really is just simple visualization for me. Maybe that is too simple for some to understand, but I hit the ball pretty straight naturally so moving up/down or left/right is not that hard because I am not fighting a tendency that favors one side or the other.



    PUSH - I seem to have this quite often. Distance is reasonable, but the ball is to the right (not a slice). Usually ends up in the rough or off the green, impacting scoring. What causes this and how can I eliminate it? Stay connected, end of story! I can see why you would fight wiping the ball when you try to finish high as you said before.



    FADE - I can hit a draw quite easily based off the JB YouTube video, but how can I play a fade with irons and the driver? Learn to control your path and clubface then this will be easier. Also, playing the ball off of the middle of your stance with make fading the ball harder... Jack Nicklaus hit a high fade off of a left heel ball position. When Ben Hogan fought a hood in the 1940's his ball was more towards the center of his stance and in the 1950's when his ball striking was spot on, his ball was much more forward in his stance.



    MORE YARDS - my distances are the same as pre Jimmy Ballard swing....just wanted to know how I can gain more power? Do what I said in my previous responses above and once you learn how to control the path and clubface, you will stop hitting glancing blows and the ball will start going further.



    If none of the above works, then LOFT must be the issue image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />. When I worked for Jack Nicklaus one of the other guys who worked with us had a bad case of the shanks, we were playing at The Bears Club and Jack dropped one of his balls that had a "Jack" logo on it so the guy could hit another shot after Jack told him what to try in order to fix his shank problem, the guy dead shanked Jacks ball in the woods.... Jack sent the caddy into the woods looking for that ball and said "don't come out until you find it because it has my name stamped on it" LOL. Jack then turned to the guy and said I think I know how to cure your problem, "take two weeks off and then quit!". All joking aside, golf is not an easy game and it takes a lot of work to get rid of grooved tendencies, as Azinger always used to say, "swings are like fingerprints, they are hard to change".






    WOW....lots of good information there. thank you for taking the time to help!



    My clubs are fit. I went to a Ping fitting with my JB instructor Bill Abrams about a year ago and went thru the motions.

    Seems some of my issues are simple.....swing down the line with a forward ball position inside of my left heel for ALL shots......just adjust the stance width for chip/pitch shots, get my weight to my inside back heel (I stay in the inside middle of my right foot) and I need to get my weight forward to my TOES to release the club to the target / cover the ball.



    Speed....thank you so much for that wealth of knowledge. Lord knows how many times you have helped and I can't thank you enough my friend.



    -Ricky
    Driver: Titleist TS2
    3 Wood: Titleist TS2
    Hybrids: Titleist 818 H1
    Irons: TaylorMade P790
    Wedges: Vokey
    Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 (2018)
  • naval2006naval2006 ArgentinaMembers Posts: 971 ✭✭
    Been working on my swing with mixed results. In fact I've been hitting fairly well save last Sat, which was an awful round. Anyway, I'm gradually getting more used to taking the club back in a more uprigth direction plus the coiling on the right leg. I've hit several crisp iron shots, plus I've also changed my wedge game for the better. I still have to work on my driver, it's the last club hanging on a rotary backswing plus the urge to smack the ball, a killing combination.



    There's a question for the seasoned JB swing golfers related to arms and hands. How soft do you feel your arms and your hands when you set up and through the swing? Is it soft to let the swing "wag the tail" or you want firmer forearms like when hitting off deeper rough?
  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    edited Dec 26, 2018 #283
    naval2006 wrote:


    Been working on my swing with mixed results. In fact I've been hitting fairly well save last Sat, which was an awful round. Anyway, I'm gradually getting more used to taking the club back in a more uprigth direction plus the coiling on the right leg. I've hit several crisp iron shots, plus I've also changed my wedge game for the better. I still have to work on my driver, it's the last club hanging on a rotary backswing plus the urge to smack the ball, a killing combination.



    There's a question for the seasoned JB swing golfers related to arms and hands. How soft do you feel your arms and your hands when you set up and through the swing? Is it soft to let the swing "wag the tail" or you want firmer forearms like when hitting off deeper rough?




    There is no one grip pressure, it should naturally be firmer when hitting out of the rough and naturally softer around the greens, but you never want to strangle the club to the point where you have forearm veins popping out.
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • DonRSDDonRSD Daddy Warbucks South FloridaMembers Posts: 190 ✭✭
    Last 2 rounds I focused on "slow and load" backswing & keeping the left arm on the body for the downswing.......I've never hit the ball so consistent over multiple holes AND ball striking is fantastic.



    Few holes I don't remember slow and load backswing, then snatch the club back and back things happen.



    What an easy swing to perform. Haven't lost any distance......but accuracy & ball striking are my main point of emphasis.



    My misses seem to be a pull to the left or the occasional thin shot around the green that stops 20 feet past the hole (short game has gone a little downhill since going full Ballard).



    Going out tomorrow afternoon and will see if 3rd time is a charm. If so, then I know I am heading down the right path.
    Driver: Titleist TS2
    3 Wood: Titleist TS2
    Hybrids: Titleist 818 H1
    Irons: TaylorMade P790
    Wedges: Vokey
    Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 (2018)
  • dodgerdodger Members Posts: 412 ✭✭
    DonRSD wrote:


    Last 2 rounds I focused on "slow and load" backswing & keeping the left arm on the body for the downswing.......I've never hit the ball so consistent over multiple holes AND ball striking is fantastic.



    Few holes I don't remember slow and load backswing, then snatch the club back and back things happen.



    What an easy swing to perform. Haven't lost any distance......but accuracy & ball striking are my main point of emphasis.



    My misses seem to be a pull to the left or the occasional thin shot around the green that stops 20 feet past the hole (short game has gone a little downhill since going full Ballard).



    Going out tomorrow afternoon and will see if 3rd time is a charm. If so, then I know I am heading down the right path.
    Try hovering the clubhead above the ground on the short game. In Paul Runyan's words, under-reach. It is a Ballard fundamental and it really cures the thin shots.
  • Ripper212Ripper212 Members Posts: 501 ✭✭
    dodger wrote:

    DonRSD wrote:


    Last 2 rounds I focused on "slow and load" backswing & keeping the left arm on the body for the downswing.......I've never hit the ball so consistent over multiple holes AND ball striking is fantastic.



    Few holes I don't remember slow and load backswing, then snatch the club back and back things happen.



    What an easy swing to perform. Haven't lost any distance......but accuracy & ball striking are my main point of emphasis.



    My misses seem to be a pull to the left or the occasional thin shot around the green that stops 20 feet past the hole (short game has gone a little downhill since going full Ballard).



    Going out tomorrow afternoon and will see if 3rd time is a charm. If so, then I know I am heading down the right path.
    Try hovering the clubhead above the ground on the short game. In Paul Runyan's words, under-reach. It is a Ballard fundamental and it really cures the thin shots.




    Interesting. I always thought that was taught as a way to avoid chunks because arms lengthen with the swing.
  • naval2006naval2006 ArgentinaMembers Posts: 971 ✭✭
    DonRSD wrote:


    Last 2 rounds I focused on "slow and load" backswing & keeping the left arm on the body for the downswing.......I've never hit the ball so consistent over multiple holes AND ball striking is fantastic.





    What an easy swing to perform. Haven't lost any distance......but accuracy & ball striking are my main point of emphasis.








    True, ballstriking is way above average with JB swing. I guess it’s because of the simple and repeatable club path. I played a quick nine today and I hit great drives specially. I only focused on connected left arm and loading my right leg. My side green game was poor due to lack of rhythm but I made it up by the 5th hole. Keep it rolling!
  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    dodger wrote:


    Try hovering the clubhead above the ground on the short game. In Paul Runyan's words, under-reach. It is a Ballard fundamental and it really cures the thin shots.




    I couldn't agree more with this advice and it helps to keep the tension out which is very important, especially on feel shots.
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • dodgerdodger Members Posts: 412 ✭✭
    Ripper212 wrote:

    dodger wrote:

    DonRSD wrote:


    Last 2 rounds I focused on "slow and load" backswing & keeping the left arm on the body for the downswing.......I've never hit the ball so consistent over multiple holes AND ball striking is fantastic.



    Few holes I don't remember slow and load backswing, then snatch the club back and back things happen.



    What an easy swing to perform. Haven't lost any distance......but accuracy & ball striking are my main point of emphasis.



    My misses seem to be a pull to the left or the occasional thin shot around the green that stops 20 feet past the hole (short game has gone a little downhill since going full Ballard).



    Going out tomorrow afternoon and will see if 3rd time is a charm. If so, then I know I am heading down the right path.
    Try hovering the clubhead above the ground on the short game. In Paul Runyan's words, under-reach. It is a Ballard fundamental and it really cures the thin shots.




    Interesting. I always thought that was taught as a way to avoid chunks because arms lengthen with the swing.
    For me, thin shots are a result of trying to avoid chunks. Setting up on short shots with the leading edge at the middle of the ball or above seems to put in my mind the need to swing down. No chunks or thin shots when I do this right. In JB's book, the last chapter discusses short shots and has a great sequence of Weiskopf hitting a lob. When you realize on short shots the body moves forward and the head and spine release as in full shots, the contact is incredibly consistent. One key is to keep the ball no further back than mid stance. If you play it too far off of rear foot, it does not work. I used to put it too far back, because I believed it helped contact. The chapter on short game in the book is gold. Try chipping with the short left arm, hover clubhead and like a previous poster said, never let the left arm get off the body in downswing. Gold.
  • naval2006naval2006 ArgentinaMembers Posts: 971 ✭✭
    edited Dec 29, 2018 #290
    Great advice on chipping and pitching. Been working on a short left arm throughout the swing and contact is superb. Even though I've had a hard time trying to control distance. But I think it's because all my life I chipped and pitched with very active hands. And the hovering over is also a good suggestion to start the backwsing smooth and keep it smooth through the ball. I think this thread is becoming the ultimate Jimmy Ballard swing thread because of all the input from real Ballard swingers contributing uninterestingly and respectfully. Lots of generosity.
  • DonRSDDonRSD Daddy Warbucks South FloridaMembers Posts: 190 ✭✭
    edited Dec 29, 2018 #291
    Hover for ALL shots (driver, irons, etc) or just "feel" shots? I find myself sitting into the ball and having the bottom of the club barely touching the floor behind the ball - it IS touching the floor though.



    As for the short game, I find that if I keep the knee flex in my left knee coming thru and post impact that the ball pops out better. Is that a compensation for not hitting short shots well or something to compound on for ALL shots?



    EDIT....



    Forgot to mention about the right leg loading....

    Do you guys feel a load in your right buttock on the backswing? If not, where do you feel your load.....only in the inside right thigh/leg?

    I ask because it seems like I am trying to force a feeling of load/squat into my right buttock and sometimes I get more distance....sometimes I reverse pivot.

    Just don't know if loading into the right buttock is something to focus on, or just an extra step that I am adding for no reason.
    Driver: Titleist TS2
    3 Wood: Titleist TS2
    Hybrids: Titleist 818 H1
    Irons: TaylorMade P790
    Wedges: Vokey
    Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 (2018)
  • dodgerdodger Members Posts: 412 ✭✭
    I hover for all shots, focus on feeling weight of clubhead. I watched a golf channel video with Stan Utley who discussed the fault of the top of the spine tipping back, causing fat shots. I did an experiment, keeping left arm straight and swinging only with left, the spine and shoulders move back. Straighten right arm, spine moves forward. Shorten the left arm on short shots keeps body moving. If you feel wt in rt glute you may be turning and not coiling. Check rt toe, needs to point in, keeps wt inside rt leg.

  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    I never let the club touch the ground inside 100 yards. But on full shots the sole of my club touches the ground but very lightly, same on putts.



    If your right foot is turned in correctly then you can aggressively load the right side without swaying.
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • DonRSDDonRSD Daddy Warbucks South FloridaMembers Posts: 190 ✭✭
    edited Dec 30, 2018 #294
    Seems like the loading into the buttock was causing a twist instead of coil.

    In re-reading the book, I see there IS a move laterally backwards 6-8 inches behind the ball with my center of weight. Twisting / turning is a no-no.



    Attached 2 pics from the book.



    1 is the weight going back and not twisting. That seems to be most of my issues when they pop up.....reverse pivoting aka twisting instead of cooking into the braced right leg.

    Driver: Titleist TS2
    3 Wood: Titleist TS2
    Hybrids: Titleist 818 H1
    Irons: TaylorMade P790
    Wedges: Vokey
    Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 (2018)
  • torbilltorbill Members Posts: 310 ✭✭
    edited Dec 30, 2018 #295
    DonRSD wrote:


    Seems like the loading into the buttock was causing a twist instead of coil.

    In re-reading the book, I see there IS a move laterally backwards 6-8 inches behind the ball with my center of weight. Twisting / turning is a no-no.



    Attached 2 pics from the book.



    1 is the weight going back and not twisting. That seems to be most of my issues when they pop up.....reverse pivoting aka twisting instead of cooking into the braced right leg.





    Pretty hard to twist if you don't have a narrow stance and if you get a strong weight shift.



    I like the idea of having somebody measure across the back of the shoulders at the widest point, then making a wooden stick of that length and using it on the range to assure that the heels are that far apart while the left toe is turned out and right foot is square or slightly toe'd toward the target. Do this and get your weight OFF your left side and onto your right foot on the backswing and you will NOT twist. And you will not sway.
  • naval2006naval2006 ArgentinaMembers Posts: 971 ✭✭
    Tom Weiskopft in picture 7 with right arm above left is so clarifying for those of us who usually chunk it with the wedge. Great contribution
  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    edited Dec 31, 2018 #297
    The true test of a good weight shift is to get your left hip at the top of the swing behind a line drawn up from the ball....see the Tom Watson illustration above how his head and left hip are all behind the ball at the top of the backswing.
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • blehnhardblehnhard Over The Hill & Almost Down The Other Side Members Posts: 491 ✭✭
    Ulnar Deviation - When?



    What is the consensus in the Ballard Method on when UD should begin in the forward swing. From the top (would it help "spring the shaft"? Mid swing (starting at P5) or later (start at P6)?



    Some believe that UD early is "casting / early release". Some believe that you can have early UD and have a late release (right wrist goes from extension toward flexion) beginning at P6.



    Or should one not even make a conscious effort to UD and that is purely a reaction to the forces of the swing acting upon the left wrist? Can early or mid swing UD add to club head speed at impact?



    Thanks for any thoughts or opinions.



    Bruce
  • 97speedster97speedster Speedster Members Posts: 440 ✭✭
    edited Jan 1, 2019 9:11pm #299
    blehnhard wrote:


    Ulnar Deviation - When?



    What is the consensus in the Ballard Method on when UD should begin in the forward swing. From the top (would it help "spring the shaft"? Mid swing (starting at P5) or later (start at P6)?



    Some believe that UD early is "casting / early release". Some believe that you can have early UD and have a late release (right wrist goes from extension toward flexion) beginning at P6.



    Or should one not even make a conscious effort to UD and that is purely a reaction to the forces of the swing acting upon the left wrist? Can early or mid swing UD add to club head speed at impact?



    Thanks for any thoughts or opinions.



    Bruce




    Wrong thread, I think you are looking for the Mack O’Grady thread. Seriously, I dont think about the swing in angles, that’s what I like about Jimmy Ballard, it’s not too technical and very easy to comprehend.
    WITB in 2018
    Driver: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (10.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 6X
    3 Wood: TaylorMade RBZ Tour Stage 2 (14.5 degrees)
    Shaft: Fujikura Atmos Blue Tour Spec 7X
    Hybrid: Srixon U85 (18 degrees)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100 
    Irons: TaylorMade P-760 (4-PW)
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2"
    Wedges: TaylorMade Milled Grind (52.12, 58.12),
    Callaway Mack Daddy 2 64.8
    Shaft: KBS TGI 100  +1/2" in 52 & 58; True Temper Dynamic Gold Tour Issue S-400 in 64
    Putter:
    Tour Issue Odyssey White Hot 2-Ball Lined and Filled 34"
    Grip: Golf Pride Classic Putter Grip
    Golf Ball: TaylorMade TP5X
  • bluedotbluedot Members Posts: 3,427 ✭✭
    torbill wrote:

    DonRSD wrote:


    Seems like the loading into the buttock was causing a twist instead of coil.

    In re-reading the book, I see there IS a move laterally backwards 6-8 inches behind the ball with my center of weight. Twisting / turning is a no-no.



    Attached 2 pics from the book.



    1 is the weight going back and not twisting. That seems to be most of my issues when they pop up.....reverse pivoting aka twisting instead of cooking into the braced right leg.





    Pretty hard to twist if you don't have a narrow stance and if you get a strong weight shift.



    I like the idea of having somebody measure across the back of the shoulders at the widest point, then making a wooden stick of that length and using it on the range to assure that the heels are that far apart while the left toe is turned out and right foot is square or slightly toe'd toward the target. Do this and get your weight OFF your left side and onto your right foot on the backswing and you will NOT twist. And you will not sway.




    So a story about that measurement.



    When I moved to NC from GA several years ago and no longer had access to the guy I had worked with for many years, I emailed the Ballard office and asked if they had a guy in my area to recommend. They answered that Barry Walters at St. James Plantation in Southport, NC was a Ballard guy, and as it happened, we were headed to the coast in a few weeks. I called and booked a lesson with Barry, and it was absolutely some of the best "golf money" I've ever spent; GREAT lesson that I still work off of nearly three years later.



    Long story short, after he watched me hit balls for about 10 minutes, he took a metal yardstick and measured me across my back from outsides of each shoulder. We used that yardstick on the ground and that measurement for the rest of the lesson, and I've got an alignment stick in my bag with a piece of tape that distance from the end that I use periodically just to check my stance width. It's an absolutely critical piece of the Ballard method, and way, way too often overlooked. Proper stance width makes the rest of the stuff flow so much more easily.
  • PJ1120PJ1120 Members Posts: 703 ✭✭
    What is a short left arm?

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