Tensei pro white broken tip

Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114
Hey guys I got burned on a deal for a Tensei pro white. After a session on the range I noticed the tip making some odd noises. Turns out the shaft was cracked a quarter of the way down into the adaptor.



My question now is what can I do? Am I SOL? Should I tip the shaft? If I do tip the shaft how deep does the shaft tip fit inside a taylormade adaptor so I can tip it to an exact measurement.

The boron tip does anyone know if tipping it one inch will be so high it will be past the boron infused section.



Sorry for all the questions but I am really hoping I can fix this bc I’m not happy right now.

Comments

  • ago33ago33 Members Posts: 2,157 ✭✭
    Pretty much SOL
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  • Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114
    ago33 wrote:
    Pretty much SOL




    What’s the downfall of cutting right where it split and tipping it? Wouldn’t it be the same as if it was tipped from the get go? There is no splintering or anything moving up the shaft.
  • The GeneralThe General Members Posts: 1,735 ✭✭
    pics would help determine a resolution
  • swgolf12swgolf12 Members Posts: 924 ✭✭
    Tip it and use it. Whoever said SOL must not know their way around a repair room. I had a shaft in a F6+ in 2016. It snapped at the tip. I cleaned it up, prepped it, and it's in a 3 wood I hit. A little stiffer than I'd like, but still works and no issues.
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  • Pleasedwith3puttsPleasedwith3putts Members Posts: 1,729 ✭✭
    You can tip it but also need to understand what caused it to crack in the first place. If it was because it was pulled badly from another club then you may need to tip it by the entire insertion depth to get back to something structurally sound, which could make it only suitable for fairway wood use.
  • Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114
    pics would help determine a resolution




    I will upload pics when I get home but it’s a fairly clean break with a few fibers longer than the break. It broke about half way inside the adaptor which tells me it was likely broke when the adaptor was put on which is why I said I was burned by the sale. I would say half an inch to 3/4 broke off so by the looks of it I should be able to cut it at an even one inch and tip it I would imagine but I’ve never done any work like this but I guess there is no better time to start haha
  • Pleasedwith3puttsPleasedwith3putts Members Posts: 1,729 ✭✭
    If you do cut it wrap some electrical tape around the area you are going to cut really tight. Then use a saw with very small teeth like a junior hacksaw or a carbide blade that you cut ceramic tiles with. Otherwise the shaft will splinter when you cut it, especially the final part of the cut.
  • Marco ColoMarco Colo Members Posts: 485 ✭✭
    Sorry for the question and for being out of topic, but what SOL stands for?
  • Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114
    If you do cut it wrap some electrical tape around the area you are going to cut really tight. Then use a saw with very small teeth like a junior hacksaw or a carbide blade that you cut ceramic tiles with. Otherwise the shaft will splinter when you cut it, especially the final part of the cut.




    Yeah I have a coping saw with a very fine blade on it. I’m hoping that will work.

    Marco Colo wrote:
    Sorry for the question and for being out of topic, but what SOL stands for?




    s*** out of luck
  • Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114
    pics would help determine a resolution




    Pics added below...



    5c2eec7ce421dbe7e181f989a91bf3c3.jpg



    e47cffa55c789865b222177cb5429109.jpg
  • Pleasedwith3puttsPleasedwith3putts Members Posts: 1,729 ✭✭
    Wow that's nasty. I suspect it was badly pulled with way too much heat and twisted in the process. All you can do is to cut small sections of the tip off at a time until you get a clean cut that is structurally sound across the whole cut. That way you won't cut off more than is absolutely necessary, but looks to be pretty much the whole area that was previously inserted.
  • ignitewvuignitewvu Members Posts: 2,066 ✭✭
    1. Find out if it's been tipped prior (Search the forum there are post that will tell you were the lettering is in a untipped)

    2. That looks really bad & I'd say the first 2-3" of the 3" tip are totally compromised

    3. The PW has a 3" tip

    4. IMO that shaft is toast
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  • TheBIIgCatTheBIIgCat ClubWRX Posts: 1,447 ClubWRX
    Tip to bottom band is 26.5 on untipped shaft
    Driver- TC Epic 440 with Hzrdus T1100<br />3-Wood- 13 Degree Ping stretch with Ping Tour 75x<br />Hybrid- 915 with Graphite Design Tour AD DI 85<br />Irons- ( 4-PW ) JPX 900 Forged with 110s Steelfibers - Wedges- Sm6 Vokey 48 bent 2 degrees strong - sm6 vokey raw 56 bent to 55 , 58 Raw Low Bounce K grind ( 110 Steelfibers in all wedges same length shafts )<br />Putter- Scotty Cameron Laguna 1.5 Studio Torch Finish that I did...
  • TollBrosTollBros Overseer of the Test Range Sponsors Posts: 4,914 ✭✭
    If you purchased it from a certified Mitsubishi dealer, they will stand by it. If you bought it used, second hand they won't. Warranty pretty much applies to first buyer of new shafts, through a certified Mitsubishi dealer. That's one of the main reasons to buy new.
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  • Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114
    TollBros wrote:
    If you purchased it from a certified Mitsubishi dealer, they will stand by it. If you bought it used, second hand they won't. Warranty pretty much applies to first buyer of new shafts, through a certified Mitsubishi dealer. That's one of the main reasons to buy new.




    Unfortunately I didn’t have the money to buy new so I ended up buying from the BST on Facebook. Guy had many people saying he was a stand up guy. Now he basically ghosted me.
  • Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114
    ignitewvu wrote:
    1. Find out if it's been tipped prior (Search the forum there are post that will tell you were the lettering is in a untipped)

    2. That looks really bad & I'd say the first 2-3" of the 3" tip are totally compromised

    3. The PW has a 3" tip

    4. IMO that shaft is toast
    TheBIIgCat wrote:
    Tip to bottom band is 26.5 on untipped shaft




    Just finished cutting off the tip to a good clean spot. I’m happy with the results but yes I measured it without an adaptor and it’s exactly 24” to the bottom of the band. Looks like it lost right at 2.5 inches. Well crap how badly will it play tipped 2.5”?
  • Pleasedwith3puttsPleasedwith3putts Members Posts: 1,729 ✭✭
    edited May 12, 2018 #18

    ignitewvu wrote:
    1. Find out if it's been tipped prior (Search the forum there are post that will tell you were the lettering is in a untipped)

    2. That looks really bad & I'd say the first 2-3" of the 3" tip are totally compromised

    3. The PW has a 3" tip

    4. IMO that shaft is toast
    TheBIIgCat wrote:
    Tip to bottom band is 26.5 on untipped shaft




    Just finished cutting off the tip to a good clean spot. I’m happy with the results but yes I measured it without an adaptor and it’s exactly 24” to the bottom of the band. Looks like it lost right at 2.5 inches. Well crap how badly will it play tipped 2.5”?




    Not good I'm afraid. Sounds like it was originally tipped 1", then a further 1.5" ruined by overheating and twisting when it was pulled the first time.



    With only 0.5" left of the tip, it will play a LOT stiffer as the tip is the most flexible part of the shaft. You may also have a problem installing it too as you need to insert about 1.25 to 1.5" in most adapters which will take you well beyond the original 3" tip area and the bore of the shaft will increase. I'm not sure of the taper rate on a Tensei, just remember you can only remove the paint finish on a graphite shaft to prep it for installation, not any of the graphite which will weaken it.You could theoretically try a workaround using a .35" adaptor instead and a brass shim for the bottom 0.5" or so if that gives you a tight fit. Also remember the tip section is reinforced, so you will increase the risk of the shaft snapping at the hosel, even though it feels stiffer.



    You then need to add a shaft extender to get it back to the same playing length.



    Sorry, but my call is that you won't be happy with the result if you go through all that effort.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,396 ✭✭
    On top of that, once you've gone by the parallel tip section, you are also likely past the reinforced portion of the tip as well so a much higher chance of it breaking again.
  • Kahodges1721Kahodges1721 Members Posts: 114

    ignitewvu wrote:
    1. Find out if it's been tipped prior (Search the forum there are post that will tell you were the lettering is in a untipped)

    2. That looks really bad & I'd say the first 2-3" of the 3" tip are totally compromised

    3. The PW has a 3" tip

    4. IMO that shaft is toast
    TheBIIgCat wrote:
    Tip to bottom band is 26.5 on untipped shaft




    Just finished cutting off the tip to a good clean spot. I’m happy with the results but yes I measured it without an adaptor and it’s exactly 24” to the bottom of the band. Looks like it lost right at 2.5 inches. Well crap how badly will it play tipped 2.5”?




    Not good I'm afraid. Sounds like it was originally tipped 1", then a further 1.5" ruined by overheating and twisting when it was pulled the first time.



    With only 0.5" left of the tip, it will play a LOT stiffer as the tip is the most flexible part of the shaft. You may also have a problem installing it too as you need to insert about 1.25 to 1.5" in most adapters which will take you well beyond the original 3" tip area and the bore of the shaft will increase. I'm not sure of the taper rate on a Tensei, just remember you can only remove the paint finish on a graphite shaft to prep it for installation, not any of the graphite which will weaken it.You could theoretically try a workaround using a .35" adaptor instead and a brass shim for the bottom 0.5" or so if that gives you a tight fit. Also remember the tip section is reinforced, so you will increase the risk of the shaft snapping at the hosel, even though it feels stiffer.



    You then need to add a shaft extender to get it back to the same playing length.



    Sorry, but my call is that you won't be happy with the result if you go through all that effort.
    Stuart G. wrote:
    On top of that, once you've gone by the parallel tip section, you are also likely past the reinforced portion of the tip as well so a much higher chance of it breaking again.




    I think you guys are right. I don’t think there is anything I can do to save the shaft. I do appreciate your time and effort helping me figure this out. I really didn’t want to admit it to myself since I am out the money and do not have the money to comfortably let it go. Just sucks bc I put all my eggs in one basket. No backup shaft or nothing. It’s kind of sickening bc I tend to over trust people. Maybe I can find some used X stiff shaft to hold me over so I can at least still play while I save up a while to be able to spend the money on a decent shaft.



    Thanks again you guys. This is the reason I joined this forum is bc of the helpful people like you all.
  • MilkyButterCutsMilkyButterCuts Members Posts: 908 ✭✭
    Same exact thing just happen to me with a Tensei Pro Orange.... f*** ME.



    Watch who you buy from on here. There goes $360
  • TheBIIgCatTheBIIgCat ClubWRX Posts: 1,447 ClubWRX
    Same exact thing just happen to me with a Tensei Pro Orange.... f*** ME.



    Watch who you buy from on here. There goes $360


    What happened ?
    Driver- TC Epic 440 with Hzrdus T1100<br />3-Wood- 13 Degree Ping stretch with Ping Tour 75x<br />Hybrid- 915 with Graphite Design Tour AD DI 85<br />Irons- ( 4-PW ) JPX 900 Forged with 110s Steelfibers - Wedges- Sm6 Vokey 48 bent 2 degrees strong - sm6 vokey raw 56 bent to 55 , 58 Raw Low Bounce K grind ( 110 Steelfibers in all wedges same length shafts )<br />Putter- Scotty Cameron Laguna 1.5 Studio Torch Finish that I did...
  • phatchrisrulesphatchrisrules Members Posts: 1,889 ✭✭
    edited Jun 12, 2018 #23


    I think you guys are right. I don’t think there is anything I can do to save the shaft. I do appreciate your time and effort helping me figure this out. I really didn’t want to admit it to myself since I am out the money and do not have the money to comfortably let it go. Just sucks bc I put all my eggs in one basket. No backup shaft or nothing. It’s kind of sickening bc I tend to over trust people. Maybe I can find some used X stiff shaft to hold me over so I can at least still play while I save up a while to be able to spend the money on a decent shaft.



    Thanks again you guys. This is the reason I joined this forum is bc of the helpful people like you all.




    It sucks and all but don't be so certain the guy "burned you". He might not have known it was cracked either. For all he knows, he sold you a shaft that played fine, and now you are claiming it broke and it's his fauly. How does he know you didn't fat it 15 times in a row into a mat, drove over it with a cart, slammed it into a car door, etc. Truthfully, I wouldn't take it back either if I was him as I don't know what you did to it. Don't be so quick to jump to accusations.



    Next step is to reach out to Mitsubishi if you haven't tipped it yet! See what they say.
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  • jgard320jgard320 ClubWRX Posts: 313 ClubWRX
    I just had something similar happen with a Tensei pro orange that I bought on eBay. I messaged the original seller and got the receipt, then reached out to Mitsubishi. The rep, Joe (only one there if you ask for him), was extremely helpful. He was originally going to try to get it honored under an exception, but they ended up approving it with the original receipt. Worth a shot to reach out to Mitsubishi and see what they say.
  • Hubbs1982Hubbs1982 Members Posts: 5
    That sucks! Sorry it happened.



    I've bought used shafts and I always worry this could happen, but I'm cheap and don't like to pay retail... Risk you take I guess
  • jgard320jgard320 ClubWRX Posts: 313 ClubWRX
    Were you able to get this taken care of?
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