Question about Swing Weighting my DR and 3w

I just want you experienced builders to check my math here, based on the sticky post:

1/2" = 3 swing weight points

2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point

5 gr grip = 1 swing weight point

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point

So I have a 3w that has a head weight of 209g at a length of 43.5'' that OEM says SWs at D1. I like this feel and want to keep it, and also replicate it in my driver. I plan to cut both clubs down and want to stay around D1 or D2.

1) If I cut my 3w to 42.5'' then I decrease from D1 to C5. To get back to D1, I should add 12 grams to the head.

According to this SW calc, my driver is SW around C8.5.

https://www.valuegolf.com/golf-club-swingweight-calculator/

2) Assuming that's correct (I put in my 3w numbers and the calc spat out D1) then to get back to D1 or so I need to add on 3 SW points or 6g at 45''. Once I cut .5'' off the shaft, I'll then need to add another 6g.

Thanks for your time.

2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point

Roughly but it actually depends on length. For driver/3wd it's going to be a little bit less the 2 gm.

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

This one is completely useless since it assumes no change in balance point - which is almost never the case.

I like this feel and want to keep it, and also replicate it in my driver. I plan to cut both clubs down and want to stay around D1 or D2.

That's a core problem with your approach. Keeping the same swing weight does not necessarily mean keeping the same feel in the context all those changes. You're better to start out at a bit lower of a swing weight and work up slowly with lead tape until you actually do get the feel the way you want it.

According to this SW calc, my driver is SW around C8.5.

https://www.valuegol...ght-calculator/

That doesn't take into account shaft balance point - so could potentially be vary inaccurate. Use the one here instead:

https://www.hirekogo...ive-calculators

Or better yet, it might be time for you to invest in an actual swing weight scale. Based on your posting history, I don't see any end to this type of tweaking. I think you've been hooked :)

Thanks Stu. I think I read somewhere in an old Tom Wishon post that in his studies he found almost all shafts (not sure if driver or irons... Have to go back and try to find it) only had a difference at most of 2.5 inches in balance point. So I used your website guessing at balance point from 48% to 52% of the shafts overall length and I get C8 to D1.

For now with my Driver... I'll leave the 6g on. I did some drive swings in the drive way with it after and it felt nicer during the BS, which my main issue was I had no awareness of the club face during the swing with the lighter head weight.

And yeaaaahhhh.... I'm building a work bench this summer and plan to toss a few golf building tools on it, this may need to be one of them, although your calculator seems pretty nice.

Might have been true (or close to true once) but not any more. Many iron shafts are actually designed to swing weight similarly despite the differences in weight. And the push for various amounts of 'counterbalancing' in wood shafts have made those wildly unpredictable. And a variation of 3-4 SW pts is not unusual and what most would consider significant.

I see. Well, I am not attached to the number itself but as you say, I'm after the feel. Whether the right feel is D1 or D4 in my driver, I'll have to keep tinkering until it's right. At least I've got a starting point.

Can you link me to a good hotmelt tutorial? I'm not super thrilled about having 6+ strips of lead tape on my driver (and may want to HM the fairway once I cut it), especially on the bottom (going to up my launch and spin even more). I'm be looking to place some melt maybe either on the top (under crown) or close to the face.

Sorry, I can't help with the hot-melt. I don't use the stuff myself. Hopefully some one else might be able to add something.

I can say the safest place is to put it where the lead tape was placed. For most, the location isn't that critical but you can play around with the lead tape in different spots to see if it makes any difference for you or not.

I see. Well, I am not attached to the number itself but as you say, I'm after the feel. Whether the right feel is D1 or D4 in my driver, I'll have to keep tinkering until it's right. At least I've got a starting point.

 

Can you link me to a good hotmelt tutorial? I'm not super thrilled about having 6+ strips of lead tape on my driver (and may want to HM the fairway once I cut it), especially on the bottom (going to up my launch and spin even more). I'm be looking to place some melt maybe either on the top (under crown) or close to the face.

It depends on where you are located. Some WRXers send their clubheads to Continental for hotmelt when they get them refinished but most people don't want to ditch their driver for two weeks mid season.

What kind of driver do you have? Sometimes you can find heavier weights for them, or use an open port in the head to add cotton balls or yarn. I've done cotton on a couple drivers and it did not noticeably impact the performance aside from swing weight.

edit: you have a 2016 M2. eBay, Golfworks, and Billy Bob's Golf all sell aftermarket weights for your clubhead. It's a good starting point.

I see. Well, I am not attached to the number itself but as you say, I'm after the feel. Whether the right feel is D1 or D4 in my driver, I'll have to keep tinkering until it's right. At least I've got a starting point.

 

Can you link me to a good hotmelt tutorial? I'm not super thrilled about having 6+ strips of lead tape on my driver (and may want to HM the fairway once I cut it), especially on the bottom (going to up my launch and spin even more). I'm be looking to place some melt maybe either on the top (under crown) or close to the face.

 

It depends on where you are located. Some WRXers send their clubheads to Continental for hotmelt when they get them refinished but most people don't want to ditch their driver for two weeks mid season.

 

What kind of driver do you have? Sometimes you can find heavier weights for them, or use an open port in the head to add cotton balls or yarn. I've done cotton on a couple drivers and it did not noticeably impact the performance aside from swing weight.

 

edit: you have a 2016 M2. eBay, Golfworks, and Billy Bob's Golf all sell aftermarket weights for your club head. It's a good starting point.

Say the stock weight on M2 is... 6g. If I get a 12g replacement, won't that increase my launch and spin a bit? or no? Right now I put the tape right in the middle of the bottom of the club so that I didn't effect the overall "balance".

Hot melt process linked above.

I see. Well, I am not attached to the number itself but as you say, I'm after the feel. Whether the right feel is D1 or D4 in my driver, I'll have to keep tinkering until it's right. At least I've got a starting point.

 

Can you link me to a good hotmelt tutorial? I'm not super thrilled about having 6+ strips of lead tape on my driver (and may want to HM the fairway once I cut it), especially on the bottom (going to up my launch and spin even more). I'm be looking to place some melt maybe either on the top (under crown) or close to the face.

Say the stock weight on M2 is... 6g. If I get a 12g replacement, won't that increase my launch and spin a bit? or no? Right now I put the tape right in the middle of the bottom of the club so that I didn't effect the overall "balance".

Not as a result of any appreciable c.g. motion. The biggest difference in performance will come from how you might respond to the different swing weights. e.g. the goal to get the best feel will usually be it's own reward - but it's not impossible that it might result in the need for some tweaks to the loft to maintain ideal numbers. That's why length, shaft weight, and swing weight and even stiffness profiles and face angle are usually fit before loft, not after. Loft is usually saved until the very end of the fitting process.

Say the stock weight on M2 is... 6g. If I get a 12g replacement, won't that increase my launch and spin a bit? or no? Right now I put the tape right in the middle of the bottom of the club so that I didn't effect the overall "balance".

 

Not as a result of any appreciable c.g. motion. The biggest difference in performance will come from how you might respond to the different swing weights. e.g. the goal to get the best feel will usually be it's own reward - but it's not impossible that it might result in the need for some tweaks to the loft to maintain ideal numbers. That's why length, shaft weight, and swing weight and even stiffness profiles and face angle are usually fit before loft, not after. Loft is usually saved until the very end of the fitting process.

When I was fit in Feb we didn't tweak loft at all, even though my numbers weren't optimal technically. With the std loft and lie on the M2, I was spinning around 2400 and launching 15-16* with a 3-4 AoA. I'm trying to work on getting my AoA down closer to 1-2 actually right now for the sake of accuracy, so I won't tweak things too much as 2400 spin might be better at a 1-2 AoA. Getting a bit off topic though...