ddetts' Swing Journey - Searching for scratch, SDGA Mid-Am exposed my game & doing a hard reset

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Comments

  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    PepsiDuck wrote:

    ddetts wrote:


    Also, here's sort of a pump/freezer type drill I've been doing as well.



    ......



    I can tell I still have the flip release on some swings, it's hard for me to get used to that feeling of the right hand staying under.




    This is exactly the drill I use as my preshot routine, similar to what Justin Rose does, from the top of the swing to ~P6. My intent is to get the right elbow out to the ball to separate the arms from the body. Two pumps from the top, then a swing to the finish. Then I step up to the ball and swing.



    One word of caution, and it's something I know Monte has talked about before on IG...don't look back at your hands to "check" positions... I'm also curious, what is *your* intent or thought going from P4 to P6 in that pump drill...?




    My big problem was arm over run in the backswing, which left arms trailing way behind body, and finally a hip stall with flip & dump of wrists.



    So right now, I'm trying to feel my arms in front of me and connected and then just rotate and extend through impact.



    A secondary feel is focusing on hand path and keeping my right arm under my left.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    Like the pump drill, DD.



    I've been doing something similar but my intent has been more to feel pressure build in my lead leg. Anyways, depending on intent I like the pump drill to try and get different "feels"
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • PepsiDuckPepsiDuck Members Posts: 1,867 ✭✭
    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    Like the pump drill, DD.



    I've been doing something similar but my intent has been more to feel pressure build in my lead leg. Anyways, depending on intent I like the pump drill to try and get different "feels"




    Yea, it’s very interesting between just the three of us, we all have completely different intents and feels associated with the pump drill.
    TaylorMade M2 (2017) 10.5* - Aldila Synergy Black 70TX
    TaylorMade M2 (2017) Tour 15* - Fujikura Motore Speeder 757 X
    Callaway 815 Alpha Hybrid 21* - Mitsubishi Tensei Pro White 90TX
    Miura CB57 4-P - KBS C-Taper Lite X
    Miura Series 1957 Wedges - 51* (Y), 56* (K) - KBS C-Taper Lite X
    Cleveland RTX 3.0 60*
    TaylorMade Spider Tour Red
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    PepsiDuck wrote:

    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    Like the pump drill, DD.



    I've been doing something similar but my intent has been more to feel pressure build in my lead leg. Anyways, depending on intent I like the pump drill to try and get different "feels"




    Yea, it's very interesting between just the three of us, we all have completely different intents and feels associated with the pump drill.




    I just hope one of us is doing it right image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    ebrasmus21 wrote:

    PepsiDuck wrote:

    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    Like the pump drill, DD.



    I've been doing something similar but my intent has been more to feel pressure build in my lead leg. Anyways, depending on intent I like the pump drill to try and get different "feels"




    Yea, it's very interesting between just the three of us, we all have completely different intents and feels associated with the pump drill.




    I just hope one of us is doing it right image/wink.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />




    Me too! But really, is there a "right"? As long as the feel or intent is helping with the desired outcome while not causing other flaws or compensations I would think it's good.



    It's definitely helping me slowly get more synced up and a bit more open at impact.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    edited Mar 1, 2019 4:34pm #187
    Here we are, March 1st and I should feel like golf season is almost here. However mother nature had other plans and we had one of our highest total snowfall records for February. I guess the only bright side is that should mean lots of moisture for the grass in spring when it melts.



    cxgNbjC.jpg



    So that means more indoor swing work and winter blues. Still feeling really good about my changes and where things are headed. Here are a couple DTL swings (limited space, no FO). Only things I'd like to see more improvement on would be less inside on the takeaway, more lead wrist flexion into/before transition, and stopping that backswing a little shorter. I really like that I'm getting open at impact and feel like I'm controlling the club face better.








    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    It's too nerve-wracking looking at you swing so close to such a beautiful TV
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    It's too nerve-wracking looking at you swing so close to such a beautiful TV




    Haha, you get pretty comfortable with knowing your spatial requirements when you can only practice indoors 4-5 months or odd the year.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    ddetts wrote:

    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    It's too nerve-wracking looking at you swing so close to such a beautiful TV




    Haha, you get pretty comfortable with knowing your spatial requirements when you can only practice indoors 4-5 months or odd the year.




    I suppose that's a fair point. image/drinks.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':drinks:' />
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    My opinion means nothing but I'm liking what I see in the swing - at least these down the line vids.
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    My opinion means nothing but I'm liking what I see in the swing - at least these down the line vids.




    Appreciate it, it's not where it needs to be yet. And obviously don't know much about ball flight but it's a huge improvement from the first videos I posted.

    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    My opinion means nothing but I'm liking what I see in the swing - at least these down the line vids.




    Appreciate it, it's not where it needs to be yet. And obviously don't know much about ball flight but it's a huge improvement from the first videos I posted.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    Here's how you can typically judge how crappy a winter has been in these parts - by how many golf related purchases you make between November and March. For the longest time I was the anti-WRX'er and hardly ever changed equipment save for new wedges here and there. This year has been a bit crazy, and I need warm weather to get here so I can stop hurting my pocketbook so much!



    Honestly though, I just pulled the trigger on new to me irons because they were exactly what I was looking for. I realized since the end of last season between swing changes starting to take and doing SuperSpeed training that I've picked up some speed and may need to re-evaluate my setup. I had been missing shots left still, even though I wasn't pulling shots or not nearly as bad. So I went in and did the Mizuno Shaft Optimizer again, and my current shafts aren't in my profile and are not stiff enough. I don't know if I believe it, but the optimizer gave me readings of 98/97/98mph for my club head speed and I would guess 94-95 is probably more realistic. It recommended Project X 6.0, DG AMT X, and C-Taper Lite X. I tried Modus 120 X (what is stock in the MMCs I believe), PX 6.0 and then PX LZ 6.5 at the fitter's suggestion. I started with the Modus 120 and I was ok with the feeling but numbers weren't great so we moved on. I played PX 6.0 in the past, and when I was playing some of my best golf so I started there next. The C-Taper Lite S I've played for 4 years now has a pretty pronounced load and kick feeling so it was quite a difference going to the PX, and so they felt much more harsh than I recalled. So the fitter had me try the PX LZ 6.5 and it was definitely the winner in terms of feel I like, still retained a bit of feeling for load/kick but not as pronounced as the CT Lite. It brought down launch slightly and helped get my pattern more right.



    I first looked at just re-shafting my MP-15s but quickly realized that I'd be in for $400+ with shafts, grips, and labor and that would be finding used/pulls and not buying new shafts. So I decided it was best to sink that into upgrading my irons that would be on their 4th season and sell my MP-15s. So if you know anyone interested in excellent shape MP-15s with like new grips (two 18 hole rounds) and lies/lofts just checked they'll probably be up for sale in the near future image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />



    I got Mizuno MP-18 MMCs 4-PW & a Mizuno MP-18 Fli-Hi 3i shafted with Project X LZ 6.5. They're in excellent shape, already have the grip I play, lengths/lies are the same, and lofts are slightly stronger in the mid/long irons. I'll be sharing pictures and updating the WITB when they arrive.



    So far this winter I have bought:
    • new driver
    • new driving/2i
    • new irons
    • A number of ball markers from Full Metal Markers
    • plenty of new clothing
    • PuttOut pressure putting trainer and putting mat

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • dwbostondwboston Lefty Boomers Posts: 2,336 ✭✭
    I had the PuttOut already and recently bought the mat and mirror to go with it. I love it. My eyes were nowhere near where they needed to be relative to the ball.
    Titleist TS2 10.5*, GD AD TP 6S | Titleist 915F 16.5*, GD AD DI 8S | Titleist 915 H 21*, GD AD HY 95S
    Bridgestone J15 CB, 4-PW, Recoil Proto 125 F4 | Vokey SM6 52.08F | Vokey SM6 56.10S | Vokey SM7 60.12D
    Bettinardi BB0 Flow, DASS, F.I.T. Face, 34"/350g
  • Hawkeye77Hawkeye77 Countdown to The Open Championship! IowaClubWRX Posts: 17,933 ClubWRX
    dwboston wrote:


    I had the PuttOut already and recently bought the mat and mirror to go with it. I love it. My eyes were nowhere near where they needed to be relative to the ball.




    LOL, there’s a mirror? How did I miss that, lol. Checking that out now .....
  • dwbostondwboston Lefty Boomers Posts: 2,336 ✭✭
    edited Mar 4, 2019 2:22pm #196
    Hawkeye77 wrote:

    dwboston wrote:


    I had the PuttOut already and recently bought the mat and mirror to go with it. I love it. My eyes were nowhere near where they needed to be relative to the ball.




    LOL, there's a mirror? How did I miss that, lol. Checking that out now .....




    Someone linked on Twitter a week or two back that Spieth was using the mirror on the practice green at the WGC in Mexico. I bought it through Amazon, which is where the PuttOut site sends you if you want to purchase it.



    The integration with the PuttOut, the mat and the mirror is really good. My only complaint is that the white marks on the mat could have been done with a little more care. Some of them aren't straight or are a little sloppy - I had to get out a laser level to get everything lined up straight.
    Titleist TS2 10.5*, GD AD TP 6S | Titleist 915F 16.5*, GD AD DI 8S | Titleist 915 H 21*, GD AD HY 95S
    Bridgestone J15 CB, 4-PW, Recoil Proto 125 F4 | Vokey SM6 52.08F | Vokey SM6 56.10S | Vokey SM7 60.12D
    Bettinardi BB0 Flow, DASS, F.I.T. Face, 34"/350g
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    Hawkeye77 wrote:

    dwboston wrote:


    I had the PuttOut already and recently bought the mat and mirror to go with it. I love it. My eyes were nowhere near where they needed to be relative to the ball.




    LOL, there’s a mirror? How did I miss that, lol. Checking that out now .....




    I think they just released the mirror and putting gate a couple weeks ago. Also looking into it!

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    New (to me) irons arrived and I'm really pleased with the shape they're in for being used. Also, extremely happy I didn't have to compromise and found exactly what I was looking for. Even the same grips I'm currently playing.



    4-PW Mizuno MP-18 MMC

    3I Mizuno MP-18 MMC Fli-Hi

    All with Project X LZ 6.5 and Golf Pride white/black MCC grips



    So the bag is officially set for 2019 and now I just need the snow to melt. Here's the updated WITB, only thing left to do is get the iron paint fill changed over to NDSU green and yellow!



    vcWXowF.jpg



    gj6317f.jpg



    AStM8iM.jpg



    Zq5BDAL.jpg



    GNEcgQd.jpg



    bbENT0f.jpg

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    Wrx worthy setup.
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    Paint has been stripped and I'm having a really hard time not leaving these beauties naked!



    qLVRfTJ.jpg



    ahoUkwK.jpg



    ahoUkwK.jpg



    I'm almost certain I'll paint them green and yellow to match the putter, wedges, and head covers. But wow these irons are **** naked.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    Now they're officially my irons! 2019 bag is set and ready for action, if only spring would get here.



    mBsCmgp.jpg



    I'm really pleased with how they turned out. Rushed a little on the sole numbers, but those get beat up in a hurry anyway.



    p1Ev0zn.jpg



    kRtU0zC.jpg



    TTQnTrc.jpg

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    I’m partial since I play the same irons but those look nice with the paint fill.



    Do you use model airplane paint?
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    I’m partial since I play the same irons but those look nice with the paint fill.



    Do you use model airplane paint?




    Yes, Testors enamel. I've tried acrylic (as that's what most recommend) but I find the enamel more forgiving when it comes to cleaning up excess paint.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • TIM929TIM929 Los AngelesMembers Posts: 511 ✭✭
    Wow, pretty clean.



    Can you please explain the whole process and stuff needed to remove, repaint, and finish so it will not rust?
  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    ddetts wrote:

    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    I’m partial since I play the same irons but those look nice with the paint fill.



    Do you use model airplane paint?




    Yes, Testors enamel. I've tried acrylic (as that's what most recommend) but I find the enamel more forgiving when it comes to cleaning up excess paint.




    I used model paint when I did my Scotty. Really worked well but was kind of annoying trying to get the excess cleaned up
    G400 LST - TPT proto
    TM M3 - Rogue Silver 110MSI 70S
    21* Fourteen Type 7 Driving Iron - HZRDUS Black 6.5 105g
    4 - PW Mizuno MP 18 MMC - SteelFiber FC115
    50, 54, 60 RC Dual Bite - SteelFiber i125
    Evnroll ER5
    Snell MTB Black
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    Timbo929 wrote:


    Wow, pretty clean.



    Can you please explain the whole process and stuff needed to remove, repaint, and finish so it will not rust?




    1. I strip existing paint using 2 minute remover or tal strip. Stuff is pretty gnarly, so heed the warnings on it about using in a ventilated area, hand/eye protection, etc. After a few minutes of applying the paint starts to bubble, and I take a firm bristled brush to scrub the paint out in a large bucket of water. Some manufacturers use really strong paint, and I've had to repeat this process 2-3x but that isn't the norm. I've never used this stuff on any clubs that have like a black/pvd finish, so I'm not sure if it's safe or too harsh for that.

    - Some people use just acetone, and soak the club heads in it. I've not tried this method, as it seems more time consuming.

    2. I make sure I have cleaned the heads after stripping, usually take rubbing alcohol and completely wipe down the heads, to make sure no chemical residue remains

    3. Time to paint. As mentioned, I use Testors enamels as I haven't had the best luck with acrylics when cleaning up excess paint. This step has the most variability. Depending on how many colors I am using, and how close together different color paints may be, I will sometimes do just 1 color at a time, let it completely dry, and then clean the excess. Then I'll move on to color #2 - paint, let dry, and clean excess. Repeating for each color as necessary. The reasoning is that if different colors are close together, when you go to wipe up the excess the colors can run/bleed together and ruin your work. Easy enough to go back to step 1 and start over, but it's time wasted. To apply the paint, I have bought the small bottles with the needle tips for application, but I find that just dipping fine toothpicks in the paint and slowing applying small drops at a time I can get just as good of results. It also seems to help to either thin the pain a little so it will "flow" better to fill in the areas you're painting or to put a very light amount of rubbing alcohol in the area to be painted just prior to applying paint.

    4. To clean up excess paint, I wait close to a full 24 hours for the enamel to cure. I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover. This is much more forgiving than using acetone or acetone based nail polish remover. I have found that acetone isn't very forgiving and for me it will often take away too much of the "good" paint along with excess around edges when I am trying to clean them up. I have also found that having lint free cloth or pads of some sort helps, as in the past I've gotten fibers stuck in the paint when using a paper towel or old t-shirt.

    5. I then take rubbing alcohol and wipe down the club heads again to clean up nail polish remover residue.



    I've done 4 sets of irons (some multiple times) and a few putters now, and it can still be a bit of a frustrating process. Definitely a bit of trial and error involved in finding what method/steps work for you.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    ebrasmus21 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:

    ebrasmus21 wrote:


    I'm partial since I play the same irons but those look nice with the paint fill.



    Do you use model airplane paint?




    Yes, Testors enamel. I've tried acrylic (as that's what most recommend) but I find the enamel more forgiving when it comes to cleaning up excess paint.




    I used model paint when I did my Scotty. Really worked well but was kind of annoying trying to get the excess cleaned up




    Yes, cleaning up the excess is still the step that gives me the most frustration. I found that using non-acetone nail polish remover works best for me. It's forgiving and doesn't take the paint off near as quickly, and it is a lot easier to not take away the "good" paint you don't want to remove. Now, the flip side to that is that it takes more time to remove the excess that way.

    > See my current WITB
    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Project X Even Flow Blue 6.5 65 gram
    TaylorMade '17 M2 Tour 15°, Kuro Kage Silver Dual-Core TiNi
    TaylorMade P790 UDI 17°, Project X HZRDUS85 6.0
    Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
    Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
    TaylorMade TP Mullen

    Twitter-icon.png lDLcKyO.png?1
  • TIM929TIM929 Los AngelesMembers Posts: 511 ✭✭
    ddetts wrote:

    Timbo929 wrote:


    Wow, pretty clean.



    Can you please explain the whole process and stuff needed to remove, repaint, and finish so it will not rust?




    1. I strip existing paint using 2 minute remover or tal strip. Stuff is pretty gnarly, so heed the warnings on it about using in a ventilated area, hand/eye protection, etc. After a few minutes of applying the paint starts to bubble, and I take a firm bristled brush to scrub the paint out in a large bucket of water. Some manufacturers use really strong paint, and I've had to repeat this process 2-3x but that isn't the norm. I've never used this stuff on any clubs that have like a black/pvd finish, so I'm not sure if it's safe or too harsh for that.

    - Some people use just acetone, and soak the club heads in it. I've not tried this method, as it seems more time consuming.

    2. I make sure I have cleaned the heads after stripping, usually take rubbing alcohol and completely wipe down the heads, to make sure no chemical residue remains

    3. Time to paint. As mentioned, I use Testors enamels as I haven't had the best luck with acrylics when cleaning up excess paint. This step has the most variability. Depending on how many colors I am using, and how close together different color paints may be, I will sometimes do just 1 color at a time, let it completely dry, and then clean the excess. Then I'll move on to color #2 - paint, let dry, and clean excess. Repeating for each color as necessary. The reasoning is that if different colors are close together, when you go to wipe up the excess the colors can run/bleed together and ruin your work. Easy enough to go back to step 1 and start over, but it's time wasted. To apply the paint, I have bought the small bottles with the needle tips for application, but I find that just dipping fine toothpicks in the paint and slowing applying small drops at a time I can get just as good of results. It also seems to help to either thin the pain a little so it will "flow" better to fill in the areas you're painting or to put a very light amount of rubbing alcohol in the area to be painted just prior to applying paint.

    4. To clean up excess paint, I wait close to a full 24 hours for the enamel to cure. I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover. This is much more forgiving than using acetone or acetone based nail polish remover. I have found that acetone isn't very forgiving and for me it will often take away too much of the "good" paint along with excess around edges when I am trying to clean them up. I have also found that having lint free cloth or pads of some sort helps, as in the past I've gotten fibers stuck in the paint when using a paper towel or old t-shirt.

    5. I then take rubbing alcohol and wipe down the club heads again to clean up nail polish remover residue.



    I've done 4 sets of irons (some multiple times) and a few putters now, and it can still be a bit of a frustrating process. Definitely a bit of trial and error involved in finding what method/steps work for you.


    Thank you so much ddetts. Very awesome bro! Can’t wait to try this image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
  • ddettsddetts Roy McAvoy Sioux Falls, SDClubWRX Posts: 1,600 ClubWRX
    Timbo929 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:

    Timbo929 wrote:


    Wow, pretty clean.



    Can you please explain the whole process and stuff needed to remove, repaint, and finish so it will not rust?




    1. I strip existing paint using 2 minute remover or tal strip. Stuff is pretty gnarly, so heed the warnings on it about using in a ventilated area, hand/eye protection, etc. After a few minutes of applying the paint starts to bubble, and I take a firm bristled brush to scrub the paint out in a large bucket of water. Some manufacturers use really strong paint, and I've had to repeat this process 2-3x but that isn't the norm. I've never used this stuff on any clubs that have like a black/pvd finish, so I'm not sure if it's safe or too harsh for that.

    - Some people use just acetone, and soak the club heads in it. I've not tried this method, as it seems more time consuming.

    2. I make sure I have cleaned the heads after stripping, usually take rubbing alcohol and completely wipe down the heads, to make sure no chemical residue remains

    3. Time to paint. As mentioned, I use Testors enamels as I haven't had the best luck with acrylics when cleaning up excess paint. This step has the most variability. Depending on how many colors I am using, and how close together different color paints may be, I will sometimes do just 1 color at a time, let it completely dry, and then clean the excess. Then I'll move on to color #2 - paint, let dry, and clean excess. Repeating for each color as necessary. The reasoning is that if different colors are close together, when you go to wipe up the excess the colors can run/bleed together and ruin your work. Easy enough to go back to step 1 and start over, but it's time wasted. To apply the paint, I have bought the small bottles with the needle tips for application, but I find that just dipping fine toothpicks in the paint and slowing applying small drops at a time I can get just as good of results. It also seems to help to either thin the pain a little so it will "flow" better to fill in the areas you're painting or to put a very light amount of rubbing alcohol in the area to be painted just prior to applying paint.

    4. To clean up excess paint, I wait close to a full 24 hours for the enamel to cure. I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover. This is much more forgiving than using acetone or acetone based nail polish remover. I have found that acetone isn't very forgiving and for me it will often take away too much of the "good" paint along with excess around edges when I am trying to clean them up. I have also found that having lint free cloth or pads of some sort helps, as in the past I've gotten fibers stuck in the paint when using a paper towel or old t-shirt.

    5. I then take rubbing alcohol and wipe down the club heads again to clean up nail polish remover residue.



    I've done 4 sets of irons (some multiple times) and a few putters now, and it can still be a bit of a frustrating process. Definitely a bit of trial and error involved in finding what method/steps work for you.


    Thank you so much ddetts. Very awesome bro! Can’t wait to try this image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />




    Any time! Good luck and I can't wait to see tgw end result when you're finished.

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  • ebrasmus21ebrasmus21 Serial Shanker CAMembers Posts: 5,549 ✭✭
    ddetts wrote:

    Timbo929 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:

    Timbo929 wrote:


    Wow, pretty clean.



    Can you please explain the whole process and stuff needed to remove, repaint, and finish so it will not rust?




    1. I strip existing paint using 2 minute remover or tal strip. Stuff is pretty gnarly, so heed the warnings on it about using in a ventilated area, hand/eye protection, etc. After a few minutes of applying the paint starts to bubble, and I take a firm bristled brush to scrub the paint out in a large bucket of water. Some manufacturers use really strong paint, and I've had to repeat this process 2-3x but that isn't the norm. I've never used this stuff on any clubs that have like a black/pvd finish, so I'm not sure if it's safe or too harsh for that.

    - Some people use just acetone, and soak the club heads in it. I've not tried this method, as it seems more time consuming.

    2. I make sure I have cleaned the heads after stripping, usually take rubbing alcohol and completely wipe down the heads, to make sure no chemical residue remains

    3. Time to paint. As mentioned, I use Testors enamels as I haven't had the best luck with acrylics when cleaning up excess paint. This step has the most variability. Depending on how many colors I am using, and how close together different color paints may be, I will sometimes do just 1 color at a time, let it completely dry, and then clean the excess. Then I'll move on to color #2 - paint, let dry, and clean excess. Repeating for each color as necessary. The reasoning is that if different colors are close together, when you go to wipe up the excess the colors can run/bleed together and ruin your work. Easy enough to go back to step 1 and start over, but it's time wasted. To apply the paint, I have bought the small bottles with the needle tips for application, but I find that just dipping fine toothpicks in the paint and slowing applying small drops at a time I can get just as good of results. It also seems to help to either thin the pain a little so it will "flow" better to fill in the areas you're painting or to put a very light amount of rubbing alcohol in the area to be painted just prior to applying paint.

    4. To clean up excess paint, I wait close to a full 24 hours for the enamel to cure. I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover. This is much more forgiving than using acetone or acetone based nail polish remover. I have found that acetone isn't very forgiving and for me it will often take away too much of the "good" paint along with excess around edges when I am trying to clean them up. I have also found that having lint free cloth or pads of some sort helps, as in the past I've gotten fibers stuck in the paint when using a paper towel or old t-shirt.

    5. I then take rubbing alcohol and wipe down the club heads again to clean up nail polish remover residue.



    I've done 4 sets of irons (some multiple times) and a few putters now, and it can still be a bit of a frustrating process. Definitely a bit of trial and error involved in finding what method/steps work for you.


    Thank you so much ddetts. Very awesome bro! Can’t wait to try this image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />




    Any time! Good luck and I can't wait to see tgw end result when you're finished.




    DD and Tim -



    I’m not all that experienced in this... I’ve really only done my Scotty but the acetone worked great for me. I just let the entire putter head rest in acetone for about 60 minutes.... after that time period using a toothpick I was easily able to remove all paint fill.
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  • TIM929TIM929 Los AngelesMembers Posts: 511 ✭✭
    ebrasmus21 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:

    Timbo929 wrote:

    ddetts wrote:

    Timbo929 wrote:


    Wow, pretty clean.



    Can you please explain the whole process and stuff needed to remove, repaint, and finish so it will not rust?




    1. I strip existing paint using 2 minute remover or tal strip. Stuff is pretty gnarly, so heed the warnings on it about using in a ventilated area, hand/eye protection, etc. After a few minutes of applying the paint starts to bubble, and I take a firm bristled brush to scrub the paint out in a large bucket of water. Some manufacturers use really strong paint, and I've had to repeat this process 2-3x but that isn't the norm. I've never used this stuff on any clubs that have like a black/pvd finish, so I'm not sure if it's safe or too harsh for that.

    - Some people use just acetone, and soak the club heads in it. I've not tried this method, as it seems more time consuming.

    2. I make sure I have cleaned the heads after stripping, usually take rubbing alcohol and completely wipe down the heads, to make sure no chemical residue remains

    3. Time to paint. As mentioned, I use Testors enamels as I haven't had the best luck with acrylics when cleaning up excess paint. This step has the most variability. Depending on how many colors I am using, and how close together different color paints may be, I will sometimes do just 1 color at a time, let it completely dry, and then clean the excess. Then I'll move on to color #2 - paint, let dry, and clean excess. Repeating for each color as necessary. The reasoning is that if different colors are close together, when you go to wipe up the excess the colors can run/bleed together and ruin your work. Easy enough to go back to step 1 and start over, but it's time wasted. To apply the paint, I have bought the small bottles with the needle tips for application, but I find that just dipping fine toothpicks in the paint and slowing applying small drops at a time I can get just as good of results. It also seems to help to either thin the pain a little so it will "flow" better to fill in the areas you're painting or to put a very light amount of rubbing alcohol in the area to be painted just prior to applying paint.

    4. To clean up excess paint, I wait close to a full 24 hours for the enamel to cure. I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover. This is much more forgiving than using acetone or acetone based nail polish remover. I have found that acetone isn't very forgiving and for me it will often take away too much of the "good" paint along with excess around edges when I am trying to clean them up. I have also found that having lint free cloth or pads of some sort helps, as in the past I've gotten fibers stuck in the paint when using a paper towel or old t-shirt.

    5. I then take rubbing alcohol and wipe down the club heads again to clean up nail polish remover residue.



    I've done 4 sets of irons (some multiple times) and a few putters now, and it can still be a bit of a frustrating process. Definitely a bit of trial and error involved in finding what method/steps work for you.


    Thank you so much ddetts. Very awesome bro! Can’t wait to try this image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />




    Any time! Good luck and I can't wait to see tgw end result when you're finished.




    DD and Tim -



    I’m not all that experienced in this... I’ve really only done my Scotty but the acetone worked great for me. I just let the entire putter head rest in acetone for about 60 minutes.... after that time period using a toothpick I was easily able to remove all paint fill.


    Thank you for the heads up brother. It’s really awesome how you guys customize your own stuff. learn a lot from both your threads image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

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