Shaft flex question

SteveNZSteveNZ Members Posts: 635 ✭✭
I've just got my hands on the Maxfli CF-40 Forged irons I posted the pics of in the new acquisitions thread. The guy I got them from said they had DG R300s in them, though they don't have any shaft labels on them - pretty sure they are DGs though.



I've just been comparing the 6i to my Maxfli Tour Ltd 6i (same head as the CF-40s) which definitely have R300s in them - the label says so :-) - and the step pattern is not the same.



Shaft geometry is not my long suit, so apologies if I'm not providing the right information, but if on the CF-40 6i the distance from the top of the hosel to the first step is 7.5 inches, what's the likely flex I'm dealing with?



For comparison, on my Tour Ltd 6i with an R300 shaft, the distance is more like 11 inches...

Comments

  • oldschoolrockeroldschoolrocker Members Posts: 5,095 ✭✭
    If those are clubs for the Japanese market they may well have S200 shafts in them.
  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,370 ✭✭
    SteveNZ wrote:


    I've just got my hands on the Maxfli CF-40 Forged irons I posted the pics of in the new acquisitions thread. The guy I got them from said they had DG R300s in them, though they don't have any shaft labels on them - pretty sure they are DGs though.



    I've just been comparing the 6i to my Maxfli Tour Ltd 6i (same head as the CF-40s) which definitely have R300s in them - the label says so :-) - and the step pattern is not the same.



    Shaft geometry is not my long suit, so apologies if I'm not providing the right information, but if on the CF-40 6i the distance from the top of the hosel to the first step is 7.5 inches, what's the likely flex I'm dealing with?



    For comparison, on my Tour Ltd 6i with an R300 shaft, the distance is more like 11 inches...






    Unless that's a long hosel and shaft insertion depth, it sounds like it could be a DGS 7 iron shaft. The tip length for a 7i in DG Stiff is 9", for a 6i shaft, it's 9.5".



    It's also possible they could be DG Sensicore, which have different tip length, such as I remember. They used a lighter TT shaft as the base, due to the added weight of the sensicore insert. Some felt these played a bit softer than the same flex DG; Mizuno was known for double hardstepping them in their irons of the late 90s.
    The Ever Changing Bag!

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    2h:  TM Stage 2 Tour, Nv105 stiff -or- 1 iron: Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
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  • SteveNZSteveNZ Members Posts: 635 ✭✭
    NRJyzr wrote:
    SteveNZ wrote:


    I've just got my hands on the Maxfli CF-40 Forged irons I posted the pics of in the new acquisitions thread. The guy I got them from said they had DG R300s in them, though they don't have any shaft labels on them - pretty sure they are DGs though.



    I've just been comparing the 6i to my Maxfli Tour Ltd 6i (same head as the CF-40s) which definitely have R300s in them - the label says so :-) - and the step pattern is not the same.



    Shaft geometry is not my long suit, so apologies if I'm not providing the right information, but if on the CF-40 6i the distance from the top of the hosel to the first step is 7.5 inches, what's the likely flex I'm dealing with?



    For comparison, on my Tour Ltd 6i with an R300 shaft, the distance is more like 11 inches...






    Unless that's a long hosel and shaft insertion depth, it sounds like it could be a DGS 7 iron shaft. The tip length for a 7i in DG Stiff is 9", for a 6i shaft, it's 9.5".



    It's also possible they could be DG Sensicore, which have different tip length, such as I remember. They used a lighter TT shaft as the base, due to the added weight of the sensicore insert. Some felt these played a bit softer than the same flex DG; Mizuno was known for double hardstepping them in their irons of the late 90s.




    The hosels are not especially long...



  • birly-shirlybirly-shirly Members Posts: 3,247 ✭✭
    Steve - it's probably worth first verifying what the shafts are before trying to work out the flex.



    I would guess that most Maxflis are going to be taper tipped, but my Revolutions were parallel tipped. The step pattern for taper and parallel are different.



    So, and apologies if I am teaching you to suck eggs here, I would check first that the step pattern on all the CF40s match and that you're not comparing a rogue reshaft. Then, check whether those shafts match either the taper or parallel pattern geometries from the link here - https://www.truetemper.com/products/dynamic-gold/



    FWIW, I've bought clubs before which have been labelled DG, and which weren't. And clubs with a proprietary label, which I'm pretty sure ARE DG.



    Beyond the end of the hosel, tip insertion is probably more than 1" but less than 2". Not very precise, but the difference between flexes is roughly 2" so you should get close enough if you know you've identified the right shaft.
  • SteveNZSteveNZ Members Posts: 635 ✭✭
    edited Jul 30, 2018 #6


    Steve - it's probably worth first verifying what the shafts are before trying to work out the flex.



    I would guess that most Maxflis are going to be taper tipped, but my Revolutions were parallel tipped. The step pattern for taper and parallel are different.



    So, and apologies if I am teaching you to suck eggs here, I would check first that the step pattern on all the CF40s match and that you're not comparing a rogue reshaft. Then, check whether those shafts match either the taper or parallel pattern geometries from the link here - https://www.truetemp...s/dynamic-gold/



    FWIW, I've bought clubs before which have been labelled DG, and which weren't. And clubs with a proprietary label, which I'm pretty sure ARE DG.



    Beyond the end of the hosel, tip insertion is probably more than 1" but less than 2". Not very precise, but the difference between flexes is roughly 2" so you should get close enough if you know you've identified the right shaft.




    Wise words as usual, birly. I kinda knew I wasn't bringing enough info to the table! I shall continue with my due diligence.



    Might be worth popping a grip off to see if anything is screen printed on to the butt end?
    Post edited by Unknown User on
  • SteveNZSteveNZ Members Posts: 635 ✭✭
    edited Jul 31, 2018 #7
    OK, I think I've answered this one. Removed the grip from the 7i and the code on the shaft confirms it's a DG R300 parallel tip. No reason to assume the others would not be the same.



    Should have paid more attention to the parallel shaft drawings on the TT website I guess, but didn't really occur to me that this type of club would have these shafts.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
  • birly-shirlybirly-shirly Members Posts: 3,247 ✭✭
    Cool, glad you got that sorted. Easy now to check just by lining up the clubs next to one another that the step patterns are the same on the other shafts, with just the tip length increasing from club to club.



    I'm a wee bit surprised that that vintage of Maxflis has parallel shafts. They could be factory fit, or they could be aftermarket. Neither is a bad thing, but you can't rule out the possibility that they've been reshafted and possibly reamed to do so, and personally I'd take a moment just to verify that all shafts are the same and consistently installed.



    But, based on the measurements you gave and the TT website info assuming a R flex shaft - standard tip trim for a 6i is 2.5" off a 12.125" raw shaft tip.

    So, a 9.625" tip.

    Of which maybe 1.5" could be inside the hosel.



    So, you'd expect to see 8 - 8.5" above the hosel (not the ferrule).



    If so, you could guess that yours have been tipped a little stiff - but probably not by more than half a flex and it's difficult to say definitively without more detailed measurements of the clubhead, and which probably aren't justified unless you're super sensitive to shaft flex.
  • oldschoolrockeroldschoolrocker Members Posts: 5,095 ✭✭
    Late to the party, but, this has jogged my memory about trying to swap shafts between a set of Aussie Blades and Redlines. Didn’t work out.
  • SteveNZSteveNZ Members Posts: 635 ✭✭


    Cool, glad you got that sorted. Easy now to check just by lining up the clubs next to one another that the step patterns are the same on the other shafts, with just the tip length increasing from club to club.



    I'm a wee bit surprised that that vintage of Maxflis has parallel shafts. They could be factory fit, or they could be aftermarket. Neither is a bad thing, but you can't rule out the possibility that they've been reshafted and possibly reamed to do so, and personally I'd take a moment just to verify that all shafts are the same and consistently installed.



    But, based on the measurements you gave and the TT website info assuming a R flex shaft - standard tip trim for a 6i is 2.5" off a 12.125" raw shaft tip.

    So, a 9.625" tip.

    Of which maybe 1.5" could be inside the hosel.



    So, you'd expect to see 8 - 8.5" above the hosel (not the ferrule).



    If so, you could guess that yours have been tipped a little stiff - but probably not by more than half a flex and it's difficult to say definitively without more detailed measurements of the clubhead, and which probably aren't justified unless you're super sensitive to shaft flex.




    The guy I got them from (a friend of mine as it happens), confirmed today that they had been re-shafted - it was done by a pro and this guy (my friend) was a good player so would have been fairly particular about such things, but you can never be 100% sure I guess.



    Will compare the step patterns across the set and report back...
  • fluffy265fluffy265 Members Posts: 647 ✭✭
    edited Aug 2, 2018 #11
    Steve FWIW those “frequency matched” Maxfli Aussie blades I had were also parallel tip.



    J
    Yamaha W-602
    '58 MT PT1 2W
    H&B Super Citation 4W
    '63 MT FC4000 M1's
    Tad Moore "47 Rookie"
  • SteveNZSteveNZ Members Posts: 635 ✭✭
    fluffy265 wrote:
    Steve FWIW those “frequency matched” Maxfli Aussie blades I had were also parallel tip.



    J




    Those crazy Maxfli guys! In any event, I’ve lined up the set of CF-40s and the shaft step patterns are consistent so all good there. And truth be told, I really only wanted them to fill the 4i and 5i that was missing from my set of Tad’s Tour Ltds.

    But after all of that I’ve ended up with a (slightly worn) 1-PW set that only cost me $50 so I’m ok with it :-)
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