Bag overhaul on a shoestring budget

Finally getting back into golf after a 3 year break. There isn't a club in my bag newer than 8 years old, and all of it has either not been fitted or been fitted to a swing I was using in 2008.

I have around an $800 budget, but would like to spend as little as possible to overhaul my bag. A little about my game and equipment:

- Shot a 79 last week hitting only 8 greens (saving money on range balls and spending hours practicing chipping paid off)

- I'd like to get back to my life's best handicap or better (played to a 2 back in college)

- Currently working out 5 days a week with a golf centric lifting and stretching program

- Spending a ton of time on the range working on my swing. I got caught up in the stack and tilt craze about 10 years ago, so I'm trying to work all that out of my system. Working through arm swing illusion and Monte's material and feel like I'm going down a good path of improvement. I have an ipad system setup to analyze my swing for the first time in my life, and I've always been good at analyzing other swings, so I feel comfortable with my abilities to get my swing in better shape.

- Current driver SS is around 105 MPH. I feel like I have some big swing flaws costing me a lot of efficiency though.

- WITB:

Driver: 2010 Cleveland Hi-bore XL 9.5 with stock Fujikara S shaft

3 Wood: 10 year old Sonartec 15.5 with stock Fujikara S shaft

Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 18 with Matrix Ozik S shaft

Irons: 3-PW Mizuno MP 67

Wedges: Vokey 56 (Honestly don't even know the model. I bought it 12 or so years ago), Callaway Mack Daddy 64 (also about 10 years old)

Putter(s): Scotty Cameron Circa 62 No. 1, Rife IMO

My priorities are replacing my wedges and irons. If there is enough money left I'd then like to replace my driver and then hybrid.

I've been browsing here, Not allowed because of spam, and youtube to figure out what older equipment suits my game. I've got a list of irons and drivers that are anywhere from 2-7 years old that would still work for my game and be a vast improvement over what I currently have. I still need to do a little research on wedges, but I feel like I know the setup I want and bounce, just need to look at grinds and brands that I feel comfortable with.

My questions / ideas are the following:

What is a good price to pay for a full bag fitting? I know I need to get fitted to get the most out of my equipment. I'm thinking of getting all the shaft, launch angle, length, lie, etc. data from the fitting then use that to peruse the classifieds here, ebay, 2nd swing, etc. to get the best deal on used equipment that fits me. We have one shop around me with a decent used club selection, so I may do the fitting through them and see if they can give me a discount on it if I buy some of their equipment.

Should I get fitted now or after I work through a couple of my swing flaws? I feel like I should see a slight increase in SS and may change the overall arc of my swing.

I'm thinking about keeping my MP 67s and going back to them after I get my game back to scratch. Maybe by then I'll have a little more money saved and can get them regripped and reshafted to fit me better. I love the way they feel, but I just can't hit them right now with the way they are setup and with my swing flaws. I feel like the shape my swing is in now, I need a GI iron like an AP1 or Apex CF 16. Blade technology doesn't really change does it? So, the MP 67s should still be fine in the future? All but one of the faces are in good shape.

Anything I'm missing in my plan here? Would you do something differently?

If 800 is a shoestring budget for used clubs and driver/woods are not a priority, you’re in good shape.

Dang - average age of your gear is newer than mine! My only newer club is my driver, and is only newer than yours by a three years.

Personally, if your wedges need some fresh grooves, that's where I'd start.

Everything else is certainly not going to hold you back provided it fits you - but that's just my opinion. So if it were me, I'd have my fit checked against the current clubs (preferably by someone whose main interest isn't selling you a bunch a new gear - which may be the biggest challenge in the process) and go from there. If most of current set still fits, then I'd spend the rest on green fees, balls, lessons.

But, there's nothing wrong with wanting some new toys, either. That's fun too, and $800 can buy you some very nice gear on the used market.

There are a lot of deals on last year's equipment, so, your budget should be fine. And, if you are on a budget, look for a free fitting, which, won't as extensive or thorough, but, it's free. Titleist Thursday's start up again in September, so, you can attend one, and, get fitted (they are free, and, you are not obligated to buy anything).

If I were you I would be looking for a forgiving 4 and 5 iron from ebay because I'm sure you could manage the 6-PW in the 67s. I'd be going mp52/53 5i and any forgiving 4 iron you like the look of at 23 degrees.

Get a gap and a sand/lob wedge so 52 & 58 or 53 & 60. Keep the 64 but leave it out of the bag for now.

Old Ping drivers are super solid - I use a beat up G20 and love it. Hard to wrong with any of the Gs from the G10 onwards.

So 5 clubs at a cost of around $250 (at a guess based on UK prices). You can then decide if you need the 64 or a driving iron or 5 wood or whatever.

Dang - average age of your gear is newer than mine! My only newer club is my driver, and is only newer than yours by a three years.

 

Personally, if your wedges need some fresh grooves, that's where I'd start.

 

Everything else is certainly not going to hold you back provided it fits you - but that's just my opinion. So if it were me, I'd have my fit checked against the current clubs (preferably by someone whose main interest isn't selling you a bunch a new gear - which may be the biggest challenge in the process) and go from there. If most of current set still fits, then I'd spend the rest on green fees, balls, lessons.

 

But, there's nothing wrong with wanting some new toys, either. That's fun too, and $800 can buy you some very nice gear on the used market.

Wedges are definitely #1 priority. My 56 is money around the greens, but I can't hit a stock 100-120 yard shot because of the gap between it and my PW. I play a lot of hardpan courses, so looking into a 52 degree low bounce wedge. If that's the only club I buy in the whole bag, I think that'll save my 2-3 shots per round at least.

Also, finding a fitter that isn't trying to sell gear will be hard. There is an instructor with trackman and fitting nearby, but he charges $110 for a fitting which is a significant % of my budget. May have to bite the bullet and go with him though.

There are a lot of deals on last year's equipment, so, your budget should be fine. And, if you are on a budget, look for a free fitting, which, won't as extensive or thorough, but, it's free. Titleist Thursday's start up again in September, so, you can attend one, and, get fitted (they are free, and, you are not obligated to buy anything).

The closest Titleist partner to me is 150 miles away. I'll look at some other OEMs and try to find a demo day or something. As long as I can get some decent data, I'm fine with that. I'm not trying to make the tour next year or anything....maybe 2 years from now... :p

If I were you I would be looking for a forgiving 4 and 5 iron from ebay because I'm sure you could manage the 6-PW in the 67s. I'd be going mp52/53 5i and any forgiving 4 iron you like the look of at 23 degrees.

 

Get a gap and a sand/lob wedge so 52 & 58 or 53 & 60. Keep the 64 but leave it out of the bag for now.

 

Old Ping drivers are super solid - I use a beat up G20 and love it. Hard to wrong with any of the Gs from the G10 onwards.

 

So 5 clubs at a cost of around $250 (at a guess based on UK prices). You can then decide if you need the 64 or a driving iron or 5 wood or whatever.

I never thought of a combo set. That's actually a great thought. Get my 67s refitted bc I am actually decently solid at 6-PW. Yep, 52 wedge is my top priority. I hate the 64, so I'll definitely be ditching it. I can honestly hit pretty much whatever I need to with my 56, but may look into a 60 for tougher situations.

The Ping G20 is actually the number one driver I'm looking at. I don't know whether to get a S or X shaft though. I had a driver with an X flex one time, and could absolutely crush it. Then the shaft snapped, and I have played S flex since then.

With $800 you could easily replace nearly everything with equipment as current as the last 5 years. For example...Mizuno just has a sale of their 1 year old wedge model for $80 USD! And that's brand new. The BSt would easily have a pair for $100 very shrotly.

Your plan is great. I would get fit for irons first. This will help you decide on it design, shaft weight, flex etc...which can carry on over into the wedges.

With a driver fitting, you could easily get enough data for driver head design (low spin vs higher spin) shaft, loft, all carrying over into fairway information.

I'm Canadian...so fitting costs are slightly different...but something along the lines of $50-100/ club is a normal rate.

What shafts are in your MP 67s now?

What shafts are in your MP 67s now?

DGS300

I also like the 4 and 5 in more forgiving clubs and wedges first. Regrip your irons and find a decent driver and you will be good to go

Here are my thoughts on what you could do with your $800... I'm sure people will disagree with me, but if I were trying to build a bag for that much this is what I'd do, starting with irons.

If you're working on your swing, I wouldn't do a full fitting quite yet... with a 105 mph swing speed, you're strong enough to keep swinging DG S300 steel shafts, so its unlikely those are causing your swing faults. Would a different shaft be better? Maybe, but in my experience, I hit all steel shafts about the same with different shafts only causing very minor changes in my launch conditions (though some did feel much worse than others). I'd then focus on length and lie angles. Howard Jones has posted a lot about fitting yourself for lie angles and here's an example: http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1355102-open-source-face-labels-for-lie-angle-diy-lie-angle-testing/ . This will give you an idea of whether or not you're close to where you need to be. I would guess that since you played to a 2 in college your iron lengths are pretty good for you, but maybe if you're making a lot of changes you should test out going a bit shorter and longer. Any golf shop that has a fitting cart should have some longer length shafts to test out. Getting lie angles adjusted is pretty easy and not too expensive. Getting lengths changed is a bit more involved and expensive, but nothing ridiculous. So, with that in mind I'd look for a set of used players CB or game improvement irons with DG S300 shafts in the length and lie angle that you need for now, or just find a set in standard length/lie and adjust from there. If you can find a set that is longer than standard, you could experiment from there, just keep in mind that as you cut the shaft down you'll probably want to add weight to the head to keep the swing weight up. As for iron model, if you're thinking of going back to the 67s, maybe go with the Mizuno MP 60s or 57s for a bit more forgiveness, but basically the same look and feel? Those can be had really cheaply on the eBay. A newer GI iron like the AP1s would definitely give you more forgiveness, but the lofts can be vastly different from your 67s.

You may want to add in some hybrids or more forgiving long irons at the top of your bag, but it really depends on what exactly you're looking for. If you like your Adams, I'd say stick with that can consider adding one or two higher lofted hybrids to the set.

For wedges, getting the correct lofts to fill your gaps and the correct bounce angle for the shots you play is important and, if your grooves are worn, you might be missing out on lots of spin. Fortunately, there are many options that are pretty cheap. I've seen various retailers selling Cleveland 588s for $80 new or, if you'd like to stick with Callaway, check out their preowned site. Often times you can find "like new" for a good price (often bogo around Thanksgiving if you can wait that long) and in my experience the "like new" are usually shop worn, but basically new.

For driver and woods, pretty much anything with an adjustable hosel would be good since you can then experiment with various shafts or settings if you want to. If you're looking for cheap and forgiving, check out the PING G25 (or really any of the PING G series). I don't know anything about the Cleveland Hibore, so I don't know if you're missing out on forgiveness or ball speed, so maybe that doesn't really need to be replaced. With the fairway wood, it can be very particular to each person what they want to look at and what they want it to do. I know the sonartec woods were very highly regarded, and there's probably plenty out there that is more forgiving or longer, but unless there are shots you want to hit with it that you can't, I'd say keep it for now. Howard Jones also has a driver tune up post that you may want to consider before buying anything: http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/909991-diy-driver-tune-up-diy-fitting/

I know this is a bit rambling and doesn't have a lot of specifics, but hopefully there's something helpful in here.

That was all great info. Thanks so much for that. I was looking for a way to self fit lie angles so I will definitely try that method. I was already thinking of trying to find a used set that was standard lie and length and then getting it adjusted when I get my swing in order. I hit some Apex CF 16s today, and oh my God they were lovely. The 7 iron went about 10 yards higher in the air than my current 7 iron. I had to admire my own shot for once...haha!

I'd keep the irons tbh. Replace the wedges first, then move to whichever you choose between the hybrid, 3w, and driver.

The irons aren't going to set you back if you were previously a scratch golfer. You'll get it back in no time. The technology in the longer clubs will feel/perform drastically different from what you're playing now.

If I was you I would change my driver , 3 wood and hybrid first and stick with my irons and wedges for now .

Interesting thread.

I like the idea of a split set - but only if you’re gonna go with that permanently - I can’t really recommend you spend $50 a club on two clubs if you’re only gonna use them for a year then go back to your -67s.

I would think about what you want to improve the most. I think you have an obvious need with your wedges and IMO hitting 8 GIR isn’t gonna get it done consistently as it just puts too much pressure on your putting and chipping.

My recommendation is to buy all new wedges right now and get your gapping and distances locked down and blend them into your current set. It’s hard to score if you can’t consistently put wedges on the green.

And then you have to just decide if your gonna replace your irons or not. I’m in a similar boat to you but I know that I want to get new irons. You haven’t decided yet.

Interesting thread.

 

I like the idea of a split set - but only if you’re gonna go with that permanently - I can’t really recommend you spend $50 a club on two clubs if you’re only gonna use them for a year then go back to your -67s.

 

I would think about what you want to improve the most. I think you have an obvious need with your wedges and IMO hitting 8 GIR isn’t gonna get it done consistently as it just puts too much pressure on your putting and chipping.

 

My recommendation is to buy all new wedges right now and get your gapping and distances locked down and blend them into your current set. It’s hard to score if you can’t consistently put wedges on the green.

 

And then you have to just decide if your gonna replace your irons or not. I’m in a similar boat to you but I know that I want to get new irons. You haven’t decided yet.

For sure. The split set seems good, but it could mess up my gapping even further up in the bag. I am definitely 100% getting new wedges as my first priority. I know that should up my GIR by one or two each round. I'm about 70% leaning towards new irons. The driver will happen depending on the cost of the wedges, fitting, irons, and adjustments on all those clubs.

I should have put in the original post that I love the 3 wood. I know its old tech, but I hit it about as well as I can hit a 3w and I may hit it once or twice a round at most. The hybrid annoys the heck out of me, but I'm about 99% sure it's just my swing.

Interesting thread.

 

I like the idea of a split set - but only if you’re gonna go with that permanently - I can’t really recommend you spend $50 a club on two clubs if you’re only gonna use them for a year then go back to your -67s.

 

I would think about what you want to improve the most. I think you have an obvious need with your wedges and IMO hitting 8 GIR isn’t gonna get it done consistently as it just puts too much pressure on your putting and chipping.

 

My recommendation is to buy all new wedges right now and get your gapping and distances locked down and blend them into your current set. It’s hard to score if you can’t consistently put wedges on the green.

 

And then you have to just decide if your gonna replace your irons or not. I’m in a similar boat to you but I know that I want to get new irons. You haven’t decided yet.

 

For sure. The split set seems good, but it could mess up my gapping even further up in the bag. I am definitely 100% getting new wedges as my first priority. I know that should up my GIR by one or two each round. I'm about 70% leaning towards new irons. The driver will happen depending on the cost of the wedges, fitting, irons, and adjustments on all those clubs.

 

I should have put in the original post that I love the 3 wood. I know its old tech, but I hit it about as well as I can hit a 3w and I may hit it once or twice a round at most. The hybrid annoys the heck out of me, but I'm about 99% sure it's just my swing.

I never could get along with hybrids either. Maybe a 5 wood?

I think if you’re gonna dedicate yourself to getting back to a 2 handicap new irons make sense. And you don’t have to spend crazy money either to get nice clubs.

Keep the clubs you love and don’t feel like you have to justify anything.

That was all great info. Thanks so much for that. I was looking for a way to self fit lie angles so I will definitely try that method. I was already thinking of trying to find a used set that was standard lie and length and then getting it adjusted when I get my swing in order. I hit some Apex CF 16s today, and oh my God they were lovely. The 7 iron went about 10 yards higher in the air than my current 7 iron. I had to admire my own shot for once...haha!

Keep in mind that dispersion trumps distance. Better to be shorter with tighter dispersion than longer with wider variances offline. Of course if you can get longer and tighter dispersion that is the best of all, but not often achieved.

Was in a similar situation myself last year. Stopped playing regulary for 5 years and worked hard on swing to get back and down to a 5 HC. Biggest lessons learned in process.

Bought 714 AP2’s after a short stint with some MP 54. Instant improvement in iron game shaved 6-8 strokes off with accuracy improving drastically from great shot control.

Driver upgrade to 2016 M2, playing at 44.5” puts me in fairway more often than previous 913 D2 and added 10 plus yards. If fairwaywood is a priority match the M2 up with a M2 HL fairway, best I have ever hit.

Wedges were upgraded to SM6 46, 52, and 58. Coming from spin milled vokeys 2007 era. Short game has never been better.

Last but not least. Training regulary with instant feedback using Zepp Golf swing analyzer. This is an incredible tool for someone that understands the golf swing. Used price for all clubs should fall into that $800 range.

Good luck on getting back to a 2! Hope to get there someday myself.

Actually just finished this process yesterday. Here's what I got...

Driver - Ping G20. It seemed to be on par with all of the new tech. Got it for $75 with the stock x shaft. Hitting it 20 or so yards farther than the Cleveland.

3w/utility - Got an F6 Baffler for $95. Gonna play around with the lofts and weights to get something I can hit ~250 with a medium trajectory for approaches and can hit a little lower with more roll for driving. I hit my driver fairly straight and long, so I didn't see the need for 2 clubs in this spot.

3-PW - Got some Cobra Fly Z+ for $275. Honestly may be my best golf purchase ever. The length and lie are almost spot on for what I need. Same shafts I'm playing now with brand new grips. I've always hit long irons decent, so I saved big $$ by skipping out on more hybrids/woods.

Wedges - Got 50, 54, and 60 MD3s for $125. All lower bounce which is what I was looking for. I play on a lot of hardpan, have a shallow strike, and don't play any courses with a ton of fluffy sand.

Putter - Slapped a Fatso Super Stroke on an old Rife I had laying around for $20 and I absolutely love it.

All in all, I redid every club in my bag for less than $600. Now can I play any better? We shall see.

Definitely doable. I've had good luck being patient on ebay.

My "mint used" $280 irons were store demos. Only the 7 & 9 had very light ball impact marks, all others were new. Bought a mint used Cobra LTD with Elements Chrome shaft for $110. Looked like the previous guy played it a few rounds for a month.

I'll give you $100 to add to your shoestring... just send me those MP-67's.

You could easily get a top end bag for $800.

Taylormade m1 or m2 / Callaway epic driver- $200

Taylormade m1 or m2/ Callaway epic 3 wood- $100

Some sort of club in between 3 wood/irons -$100

Titleist AP2/Mizuno MP 5/25/64/54 -$300

Vokey SM6 52, 58 $100

The biggest thing is finding the right shafts on the woods

Driver: 2016 Epic $190

FWY: 2016 Epic $110

Hybrid: Adams Red $30

Irons: Adams CMB 4-PW $275

Wedges: MD4 52 58 $170

I would go srixon 45 series. Great set and can be had for under 300 bucks. You can get the GI 545's or the more players irons 7/945. All of them are workable and forgiving irons. See if you can get a set that goes to the AW and then buy a sand and lob wedge seperate. For wedges, I love my mackdaddy, I would probably by new or next to new here and spend the extra on nicer stuff. I think the epic 3 hybrid is the best one to come to market in a very long time and can be had for around 100 bucks. Fairway would be the Taylormade M2 hl and can be found for under 100 bucks. For the driver, I would probably go Ping G LS tec which can be found for under 200 bucks.

Driver : Ping G LS TEC - $175 - https://www.ebay.com...G4AAOSw0INbgdxu

Fairway : Taylormade M2 HL 3 wood - $85 - https://www.ebay.com...ity!19454!US!-1

Hybrid - Callaway Epic 20* - $120 - https://www.ebay.com...und!19454!US!-1

Irons - Srixon Z 545 - $285 - https://www.ebay.com...fIAAOSwe7Bbo7Rl

Wedges - Callaway Forged - $120 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CALLAWAY-V-FORGED-52-56-60-DEGREE-WEDGE-SET/253878149593?hash=item3b1c5121d9:g:U60AAOSwS-dboBr

That should leave you with roughly 15 bucks to spare.

I would definitely fit driver and then look at iron shafts to make sure your good on the numbers there. If you are and/or have a few bucks left over grab a wedge or putter if your not 100% comfortable with either. Work on your swing and if you can nail a driver, be a better than average wedge player and you can putt, you can be a very average or even barely proficient iron player and hit to middle of greens or safe sides and be scratch. As long as the irons aren’t frlying off the planet, (and with proper shafts and lie angle they wont be unless its from your swing) fix them last if your really wanting to improve.