Irons: Player iron vs Juiced iron (i500, 790, Apex CF, PXG, TMB)

Have any of you experimented with juiced irons only to go back to a one piece forged head?

I hit a 7 iron about 165 yards with a forged player cb and say 170 to 175 with a juiced i500, PXG, Apex type head.

I have gone back and forth between a player cb (AP2, Titleist cb, Cally X-Forged, Mizuno sc) and a super speed type head (TM 790, Cally Apex, PXG P, Ping i500). Here you can see how sick I have been switching back and forth... WITB Link

Pros for the speed head... Long, high and did I say long?

Pros for the player cb head... Consistent distance control and a better contact due to the thinner soles. Feel is better as well.

Cons for the speed head... distance control isn't as good and the wider soles don't agree with me.

Cons for the player cb head... My ego, I will be hitting one club shorter than my crew. :blush2:

I don't need distance with my 5-pw so I am looking for pure accuracy to get close to the pin for a birdie opportunity. I have been back and forth between these two head designs and the thinner soles give my smash at the ball less turf drag/noise. Just a cleaner strike.

I take a divot but not a digger. Moderate attack angle. Still the wider soles just arnt the same as a player cb.

Distance control of a one piece forging is so much better with a player cb as well.

That is my experience and wondering if some of you have had the same. Have to say I am a little bummed. I like the crazy distance of these low spin thin faced irons. They are fun as hell to play but damn they are not good for the score card for me.

That is the rant for the day.

At a Tm demo day I hit the 730 head on a Ctaper stiff shaft along side the 790 7 iron on the same shaft.

730– 176 yards carry

790 — 202 carry

Both on track man. Looked like they both launched about the same hieght

I live this same problem on a weekly basis! I have a set of p-790 and mp18 sc. I find myself at the range with clubs from both sets every weekend and can never decide! I'll hit the sweet spot on the the Mizzy and think oh yaaa! Why are these irons not in my bag! Then I hit one thin or on the toe and come up short, where the 790 will still carry on the mis hits, but they don't feel as good!

My pros for the 790 are the same, long and more forgiving on mis hits, and I love the long irons! Mp 18 feel great and my dispersion is usually better with them! Sometimes I want to play the 4-6 p790 and 7-pw with the Mizzy's! But I can't bring myself to mix them! I've been looking at the 770s for this specific reason! The 790s stay in most of the time due to my confidence and hitting 170 yard 7 irons!! (Even though I do sometimes miss long with them)!!!

Distance control and accuracy is the name of the game on approach shots. Easy choice....and why we don't see any top players using "trampoline" short and mid irons

Have you tried the i500 retro lofts? It was a blend of the two types of irons for me.

Distance sells clubs, end of story.

I am happy hitting my z765s, even they have slightly jacked lofts. I too have tried the crazy juiced irons, but don't see a place for them in my bag.

Go combo set and just get your gaps settled in . Then you have both clubs in your bag and can take advantage of the forgiveness in the longer irons and pin hunt with the short irons and have fun hitting them both during a round.

My biggest gripe with juiced irons is the problems it creates with wedges . You need an extra wedge to fill the gap , you need 2 gap wedges .

What is it about this thread that is attracting all the turkeys?

I use:

Miura CB501 from PW to 5 iron

TM P790 5 & 4 iron.

The 790 5 iron replaces my Miura 4 iron.

Seems to work well, distance gaps still work between Miura 5 iron and TM 5 iron and gives me some additional help in longer irons.

Tempted to put a 790 6 iron in to replace my Miura 5 iron also...

Have any of you experimented with juiced irons only to go back to a one piece forged head?

 

I hit a 7 iron about 165 yards with a forged player cb and say 170 to 175 with a juiced i500, PXG, Apex type head.

 

I have gone back and forth between a player cb (AP2, Titleist cb, Cally X-Forged, Mizuno sc) and a super speed type head (TM 790, Cally Apex, PXG P, Ping i500). Here you can see how sick I have been switching back and forth... WITB Link

 

Pros for the speed head... Long, high and did I say long?

Pros for the player cb head... Consistent distance control and a better contact due to the thinner soles. Feel is better as well.

 

Cons for the speed head... distance control isn't as good and the wider soles don't agree with me.

Cons for the player cb head... My ego, I will be hitting one club shorter than my crew. :blush2:

 

I don't need distance with my 5-pw so I am looking for pure accuracy to get close to the pin for a birdie opportunity. I have been back and forth between these two head designs and the thinner soles give my smash at the ball less turf drag/noise. Just a cleaner strike.

 

I take a divot but not a digger. Moderate attack angle. Still the wider soles just arnt the same as a player cb.

 

Distance control of a one piece forging is so much better with a player cb as well.

 

That is my experience and wondering if some of you have had the same. Have to say I am a little bummed. I like the crazy distance of these low spin thin faced irons. They are fun as hell to play but damn they are not good for the score card for me.

 

That is the rant for the day.

Exactly same as my feelings. I found a new set of 716 AP2 and happy with it so far even though I might be hitting 1-2 more club on par 3's than other "juiced" irons. It messes up my gap between PW and GW. Better distance control is the key in my case.

Ping has it right on their website. Precision vs. distance. You have to decide what you want. Personally I prefer precision. i500 is a club longer vs. 210s for me. So @ 170 7 iron, do I need to carry 4 wedges?! The numbers on the bottom of the club has screwed everything up. Need to be like Hogan and stamp degrees to make all things 'equal'?! Go with your 'precision' clubs easyyy. ;)

Have any of you experimented with juiced irons only to go back to a one piece forged head?

 

I hit a 7 iron about 165 yards with a forged player cb and say 170 to 175 with a juiced i500, PXG, Apex type head.

 

I have gone back and forth between a player cb (AP2, Titleist cb, Cally X-Forged, Mizuno sc) and a super speed type head (TM 790, Cally Apex, PXG P, Ping i500). Here you can see how sick I have been switching back and forth... WITB Link

 

Pros for the speed head... Long, high and did I say long?

Pros for the player cb head... Consistent distance control and a better contact due to the thinner soles. Feel is better as well.

 

Cons for the speed head... distance control isn't as good and the wider soles don't agree with me.

Cons for the player cb head... My ego, I will be hitting one club shorter than my crew. :blush2:

 

I don't need distance with my 5-pw so I am looking for pure accuracy to get close to the pin for a birdie opportunity. I have been back and forth between these two head designs and the thinner soles give my smash at the ball less turf drag/noise. Just a cleaner strike.

 

I take a divot but not a digger. Moderate attack angle. Still the wider soles just arnt the same as a player cb.

 

Distance control of a one piece forging is so much better with a player cb as well.

 

That is my experience and wondering if some of you have had the same. Have to say I am a little bummed. I like the crazy distance of these low spin thin faced irons. They are fun as hell to play but damn they are not good for the score card for me.

 

That is the rant for the day.

Bro-

you just described the summer myself and an OG member here have had.... and guess what ? we came to the same conclusion .

I love that you focus in on the thin sole being better for ball striking....Do yo know how many times ive been told that idea is false here ? More than i can count . Yet its true as can be for me , The wider the sole , the harder to take any divot.. If i cant take a divot ill hit it steeper and harder trying to take one. Well then it all goes to hell .

Thank you for using your platform to help dispel the myth that the sole doesnt matter .

Got rid of Rogue Pro Irons for this reason . The wide sole off of tight FL fairways didn't work. They were fine off a tee with a sweeping swing. Went back to MP 68 with immediate improvement in ball contact. Wide soles don't mesh with all swings.

I have been debating this for years.

I grew up on a used set of eye2's and then in my late teens went right to PING s59's. After that I was hooked on smaller clubs and blade profiles.

I have run the gamut, of big vs, small for close to a decade now, and as you mention for me as well its also the sole that seems to be my hang up - pun slightly intended. I'm not a bomber, never will be, so ego plays a lot less on what club I happen to hit a certain distance, if its a 5 instead of a 6 I could care less.

Distance control never seems to be a huge issue with hot faced irons, but for me its the "fear" of distance control that causes the most on course confusion and indecision - fully willing to admit my mental game shortcomings. Like as an example of self talk "yes a stock 7 should get their no problem and carry the water but if I catch it real clean it might go too long - Ill give it a full 8 iron instead" result in water. This also happens the other way where the fear is clubbing up, taking some off and then worrying about the result of what if this goes way to long.

I find it's way more mental for me then really a technical issue. I'm not that good to be worrying about taking 2 yards of X club - sure I fire at pins ( or try to is a better way to phrase it ) as a lower handicap. but as a biweekly player & higher single digit at most I don't exaggerate my skill set.

The sound and the "feel" through the turf with the shorter clubs for me being on the shallow side certainly feels different, but as i mentioned before, as someone that needs help I keep debating what I should really be playing. i500's are seriously on my radar 4-PW and if it helps with launch as described than I think regardless of sole interaction that could be the winning club.

I’ve always been fortunate that distance has never been a concern. I have always thought of irons as a precision tool. I want to know how far they will carry within a couple of yards, how high they generally fly, and how much they spin.

To me, there has never been anything attractive about an iron advertised for how long it is. Good golf is about distance control. One day when Ive lost a bit more distance and I will likely need another hybrid near the top of my bad for proper gapping, I will put one there. So far, at 51, I’ve been fortunate and I still have good club speed.

My carry gapping currently is 90-61, 115-55, 130-50, 144-46(p), 156-42(9), 168-38(8), 180-34(7), 194-30(6), 208-26(5), 223-22(4), 235-3hy, 245-5w, 260-3w, 275-D

Now what happens if I suddenly have a “juiced” set with a “7 iron” that goes 200?? What happens to the lower part of the bag? Where do I add a club? I already have 4 wedges in the bag and my gapping is essentially perfect.

I say If distance is a serious concern then of course, get the hotter clubs, but if it’s not, worry about good gapping, consistency, and spin numbers.

I suppose it is all about need for one’s particular game. I am almost 58 and just don’t have the club speed that I once enjoyed. The players distance iron lets me pull the same club I did when I was younger. Personally, I just don’t experience the problems complained of by so many regarding inconsistent distances. I have played PXGs, P790s, i500s and Cobra FTBs. They all drop and stop for me and I know what I will get when I put a good swing on them. I have found that the concerns that come from looking at launch monitor numbers simply do not translate to the course.

Yesterday, I hit one of my irons from my set on 14 approaches. I hit 10 greens and had 4 good birdie opportunities, one of which was 3 inches from the hole. Two of the shots were with a 5 iron and they were hole high and the ball was within inches of the pitch mark.

There are many better ball strikers than I, but I am decent at a 4.2 handicap. I love playing close to the same game as I did 15 years ago and it is largely due to the players distance irons.

My G400 irons are hot-faced compared to the ones I used to play (older G series 10, 15). I love the height and extra distance, but I am still struggling with chipping, bump and runs around the green. The ball jumps off the face more than I was used to. Haven't thought abut going back to the G10s.....................yet.

I suppose it is all about need for one’s particular game. I am almost 58 and just don’t have the club speed that I once enjoyed. The players distance iron lets me pull the same club I did when I was younger. Personally, I just don’t experience the problems complained of by so many regarding inconsistent distances. I have played PXGs, P790s, i500s and Cobra FTBs. They all drop and stop for me and I know what I will get when I put a good swing on them. I have found that the concerns that come from looking at launch monitor numbers simply do not translate to the course.

 

Yesterday, I hit one of my irons from my set on 14 approaches. I hit 10 greens and had 4 good birdie opportunities, one of which was 3 inches from the hole. Two of the shots were with a 5 iron and they were hole high and the ball was within inches of the pitch mark.

 

There are many better ball strikers than I, but I am decent at a 4.2 handicap. I love playing close to the same game as I did 15 years ago and it is largely due to the players distance irons.

Did you add an extra wedge?

I suppose it is all about need for one’s particular game. I am almost 58 and just don’t have the club speed that I once enjoyed. The players distance iron lets me pull the same club I did when I was younger. Personally, I just don’t experience the problems complained of by so many regarding inconsistent distances. I have played PXGs, P790s, i500s and Cobra FTBs. They all drop and stop for me and I know what I will get when I put a good swing on them. I have found that the concerns that come from looking at launch monitor numbers simply do not translate to the course.

 

Yesterday, I hit one of my irons from my set on 14 approaches. I hit 10 greens and had 4 good birdie opportunities, one of which was 3 inches from the hole. Two of the shots were with a 5 iron and they were hole high and the ball was within inches of the pitch mark.

 

There are many better ball strikers than I, but I am decent at a 4.2 handicap. I love playing close to the same game as I did 15 years ago and it is largely due to the players distance irons.

Did you add an extra wedge?

No, because I don’t get crazy distances on my pw. I get a few more yards on the shorter irons and by the time I get to my 6 and 5 irons, that progresssive additional distance through the set has given me about a club extra distance. The 6 and 5 irons are where I see the real advantage

I think you go combo and get the best of both worlds.

For me, the distance gains with distance irons is big in the long irons, modest in the mid irons, and diminishes as you get to the scoring irons. I think the sweet spot is to use the distance irons to get back distance and trajectory in the long and mid irons where you need it, then blend in the a set of irons for control to round out the set.

For me, I am finding out that a good place to split the set is 6i. I think 4-6 i500, 7-PW i210 works perfect for me. I have stopped worrying about the stated lofts, and just work on adjusting the carry distances appropriately.

UMMV,

LB

Turf interaction is more important to some players than it is others. So you have to leverage as much forgiveness as you can get with the amount of sole that you can stand. It's different for everybody.

And then you get into things like feel, visuals at address (top line, offset, shape). It's just a personal choice that each of us has to make based on what works best for scoring.

For me, I play Iblades 5-PW and then I go straight into hybrids. I've found with advancing age that I just can't generate the speed to hit 3, 4 irons, even if I go with a more forgiving model. Vanity wants me to go with long irons but an accurate assessment of my game says no way. Everybody needs to accurately assess their game and make their choices from there. Probably within a year or two I'm going to have to give up the 5 iron and I need to be ready to recognize it when the time comes.

Bobby Clampett addressed this in a July* article:

Problem 2: Fitting Irons for Distance

 

The second problem that seems to be growing in the industry is the focus on increased distance with the irons. I don’t mean to be too blunt here, but who cares how far you hit an 8-iron! Today’s pitching wedge is yesterday’s 9-iron. My pitching wedge is set at 49 degrees, and my 9-iron is 44 degrees (about the standard loft for today’s pitching wedge). The only two clubs in the bag that should be designed for distance are your driver and your 3-wood. All the other clubs should be set for proper gapping and designed to improve consistency and proximity to the hole. That’s why my pitching wedge is at 49 degrees and I only hit it 120 yards (exactly 16 yards farther than my 54-degree sand wedge). Most of my students hit a pitching wedge 20 yards farther than I do, but I drive the ball 30-40 yards farther than they do. When they get into the 7-irons through 4-irons, their gaps narrow. They have a 175-yard shot, and they don’t know what club selection to make since the 7, 6, 5, and 4 irons all go somewhat similar distances.

BC is talking about the prevailing wisdom from the previous century: Woods for distance, irons for accuracy.

And, GolfWorks Academy stresses that clubfitting is all about trade-offs. A good clubfitter needs to balance accuracy and distance as it pertains to a given player.

Several better amateurs I have talked to have tried the P790 irons, but didn't buy the entire set. Several did, however, buy the 3i or 4i as a clearout-distance club to place between their other irons and their woods.

This comes up in gap analysis of a golfer's iron set. If the 5i goes as long as - or longer - than the 4i, the golfer probably needs to swap the 4i for a hybrid, or maybe softstep the 4i to improve launce, or go to a more forgiving 4i head.

A couple of years ago, a Golf Digest writer interviewed a designer on golf irons. (Sorry, can't find article with Google.) Here is the gist of what the designer said:

• Players irons: A well-struck shot gives the golfer + 3 yards of range dispersion.
  
• Game Improvement irons: A well-struck... + 7 yards of range dispersion.
  
• Super Game Improvement irons: A so-so or even well-struck shot... + 10 yards of range dispersion.
  

Years ago I decided to get Callaway X20 irons rather than X20 Tours. X20 approach shots scattered around the green, not a lot of GIR, and the larger heads tended to hang up in the rough. I rarely had any birdie putts. When I switched to X20 Tours, the distance was a lot more reliable - more GIR and true birdie chances - but forgiveness less on not-so-well-hit shots.

As for struggles with longer irons, clubfitters offer these possible solutions: Softstep the 3-4 iron shafts to improve launch, or shift from Players to GI head.

___________________

* For full article see: http://www.golfwrx.com/504260/bobby-clampett-the-2-big-problems-with-club-fitting/

I haven't pursued it yet, but I have been thinking about picking up a set of 790s for the winter months and keeping my normal playing set for the majority of the year. Not uncommon for me to lose 1-1 1/2 clubs when it gets cold so that might be able to allow me to keep the iron distances closer over the span of the year. Course goes soft, wind gets up, and the body gets a little tighter...so it might just balance out. I would probably weaken the lofts a smidge in the shorter irons to close the gaps a bit.

I just have to figure out which spare iron sets to offload for the purchase.

My speed is much slower than most on wrx and I finally caved grabbing a distance iron, PXG gen 1 0311/0311T combo set....lofts are stronger but trajectory is actually higher due to design .....wider sole was a concern but so far off tight Florida turf, it hasn't been an issue.....played previously PSI FORGED TOUR irons....which offer NO help on misses of any kind....

My G400 irons are hot-faced compared to the ones I used to play (older G series 10, 15). I love the height and extra distance, but I am still struggling with chipping, bump and runs around the green. The ball jumps off the face more than I was used to. Haven't thought abut going back to the G10s.....................yet.

Sorry to pick on you but this is totally wrong. The ball doesn't "jump off the face" when using spring face irons for chips/bumps/runs around the green. Reason being there is NO spring effect on a shot with a very slow club head speed coming into the ball. To get the face to deflect there needs to be considerable speed.

The amount of extra energy imparted to the ball from a spring face club is only something like 5% compared to a thick faced club. This can increase distance noticeably with a driver, but the effect is reduced with shorter clubs that are coming into the ball slower. A lot of the extra distance people experience with the type of irons being discussed here is because the lofts are stronger and sometimes, the spin is lower. As far as distance control is concerned, you gotta be a pretty darn good ball striker before these irons turn into a determent. Personally, I've been playing spring face irons for the last couple of years and distance control is the least of my troubles (high single digit handicapper).

My G400 irons are hot-faced compared to the ones I used to play (older G series 10, 15). I love the height and extra distance, but I am still struggling with chipping, bump and runs around the green. The ball jumps off the face more than I was used to. Haven't thought abut going back to the G10s.....................yet.

 

Sorry to pick on you but this is totally wrong. The ball doesn't "jump off the face" when using spring face irons for chips/bumps/runs around the green. Reason being there is NO spring effect on a shot with a very slow club head speed coming into the ball. To get the face to deflect there needs to be considerable speed.

 

The amount of extra energy imparted to the ball from a spring face club is only something like 5% compared to a thick faced club. This can increase distance noticeably with a driver, but the effect is reduced with shorter clubs that are coming into the ball slower. A lot of the extra distance people experience with the type of irons being discussed here is because the lofts are stronger and sometimes, the spin is lower. As far as distance control is concerned, you gotta be a pretty darn good ball striker before these irons turn into a determent. Personally, I've been playing spring face irons for the last couple of years and distance control is the least of my troubles (high single digit handicapper).

... Yup, right there with you. I picked up the P790's last fall because I loved the look at address, although the top line is a little thicker than I would like but I no longer even notice, however the shape is just about perfect to my eye. The biggest reason was forgiveness as my miss is a little low on the face and the P790's excel with those strikes. At 65 thankfully I did not need additional yardage but it was a pleasant addition to my game, especially in the long irons.

... The two comments that always surprise me are 1) thin faces producing inconsistent yardage and 2) the sole does not work well through the turf. If you have the same swing speed on any given shot the P790's will reward you with the exact same distance. I imagine an inconsistent swing that is 5 mph faster than normal will produce a little more distance off a thin faces iron than a solid players iron struck the same. That is the only thing I can think of as my P790's produce the most consistent yardage of any irons I have ever played. And that has to be near 100 sets. Playing to a + index distance control is paramount to my iron game an inconstant yardage would certainly be a deal breaker. And while my Honma 737's cut thru the turf carving out a nice divot effortlessly, my P790's carve out the same divot but it seems like a little more work for them. So the difference is not performance, just feel. Of course the divots are carved easily because of the sharpness of the leading edge not the width of the sole, which is pretty similar. I would never consider P790's to have a wide sole like many GI and certainly most SGI irons. There is a rain PXG and P790's are so successful but added distance is at the bottom of that list.

Have any of you experimented with juiced irons only to go back to a one piece forged head?

 

I hit a 7 iron about 165 yards with a forged player cb and say 170 to 175 with a juiced i500, PXG, Apex type head.

 

I have gone back and forth between a player cb (AP2, Titleist cb, Cally X-Forged, Mizuno sc) and a super speed type head (TM 790, Cally Apex, PXG P, Ping i500). Here you can see how sick I have been switching back and forth... WITB Link

 

Pros for the speed head... Long, high and did I say long?

Pros for the player cb head... Consistent distance control and a better contact due to the thinner soles. Feel is better as well.

 

Cons for the speed head... distance control isn't as good and the wider soles don't agree with me.

Cons for the player cb head... My ego, I will be hitting one club shorter than my crew. :blush2:

 

I don't need distance with my 5-pw so I am looking for pure accuracy to get close to the pin for a birdie opportunity. I have been back and forth between these two head designs and the thinner soles give my smash at the ball less turf drag/noise. Just a cleaner strike.

 

I take a divot but not a digger. Moderate attack angle. Still the wider soles just arnt the same as a player cb.

 

Distance control of a one piece forging is so much better with a player cb as well.

 

That is my experience and wondering if some of you have had the same. Have to say I am a little bummed. I like the crazy distance of these low spin thin faced irons. They are fun as hell to play but damn they are not good for the score card for me.

 

That is the rant for the day.

 

Exactly same as my feelings. I found a new set of 716 AP2 and happy with it so far even though I might be hitting 1-2 more club on par 3's than other "juiced" irons. It messes up my gap between PW and GW. Better distance control is the key in my case.

Good to hear from you Bill. Hope your game is strong as it always is. Distance control is the key for me right now. I am hitting it fairly consistent right now. My miss is a pull hook and there is nothing that a hot iron with a wider sole can do for that.

When I used to play the MP-64's I could dial the distance in tight. Now days with these heated heads it is pot luck sometimes. No spin.

AP-2's rock. Love those heads.

I think you go combo and get the best of both worlds.

 

For me, the distance gains with distance irons is big in the long irons, modest in the mid irons, and diminishes as you get to the scoring irons. I think the sweet spot is to use the distance irons to get back distance and trajectory in the long and mid irons where you need it, then blend in the a set of irons for control to round out the set.

 

For me, I am finding out that a good place to split the set is 6i. I think 4-6 i500, 7-PW i210 works perfect for me. I have stopped worrying about the stated lofts, and just work on adjusting the carry distances appropriately.

 

UMMV,

LB

I do a split set. 3 is a hybrid, 4 is Cally UT driving iron at 24*. Irons start at a 5 and go to pw. I love the 4 iron as a UT. Added a GD DI Tour AD 95 stiff at a standard 4 iron length.

My speed is much slower than most on wrx and I finally caved grabbing a distance iron, PXG gen 1 0311/0311T combo set....lofts are stronger but trajectory is actually higher due to design .....wider sole was a concern but so far off tight Florida turf, it hasn't been an issue.....played previously PSI FORGED TOUR irons....which offer NO help on misses of any kind....

The 0311t heads are a moderate sole width IMO. Not to wide to be a problem. They are close to AP2. I think the 0311 P heads are the ones I cant marry. I can have an affair but no marriage. Score card mo likey.

What is your speed? how long do you hit a 7 iron or what is your driver SS?

My G400 irons are hot-faced compared to the ones I used to play (older G series 10, 15). I love the height and extra distance, but I am still struggling with chipping, bump and runs around the green. The ball jumps off the face more than I was used to. Haven't thought abut going back to the G10s.....................yet.

 

Sorry to pick on you but this is totally wrong. The ball doesn't "jump off the face" when using spring face irons for chips/bumps/runs around the green. Reason being there is NO spring effect on a shot with a very slow club head speed coming into the ball. To get the face to deflect there needs to be considerable speed.

 

The amount of extra energy imparted to the ball from a spring face club is only something like 5% compared to a thick faced club. This can increase distance noticeably with a driver, but the effect is reduced with shorter clubs that are coming into the ball slower. A lot of the extra distance people experience with the type of irons being discussed here is because the lofts are stronger and sometimes, the spin is lower. As far as distance control is concerned, you gotta be a pretty darn good ball striker before these irons turn into a determent. Personally, I've been playing spring face irons for the last couple of years and distance control is the least of my troubles (high single digit handicapper).

 

 

... Yup, right there with you. I picked up the P790's last fall because I loved the look at address, although the top line is a little thicker than I would like but I no longer even notice, however the shape is just about perfect to my eye. The biggest reason was forgiveness as my miss is a little low on the face and the P790's excel with those strikes. At 65 thankfully I did not need additional yardage but it was a pleasant addition to my game, especially in the long irons.

 

... The two comments that always surprise me are 1) thin faces producing inconsistent yardage and 2) the sole does not work well through the turf. If you have the same swing speed on any given shot the P790's will reward you with the exact same distance. I imagine an inconsistent swing that is 5 mph faster than normal will produce a little more distance off a thin faces iron than a solid players iron struck the same. That is the only thing I can think of as my P790's produce the most consistent yardage of any irons I have ever played. And that has to be near 100 sets. Playing to a + index distance control is paramount to my iron game an inconstant yardage would certainly be a deal breaker. And while my Honma 737's cut thru the turf carving out a nice divot effortlessly, my P790's carve out the same divot but it seems like a little more work for them. So the difference is not performance, just feel. Of course the divots are carved easily because of the sharpness of the leading edge not the width of the sole, which is pretty similar. I would never consider P790's to have a wide sole like many GI and certainly most SGI irons. There is a rain PXG and P790's are so successful but added distance is at the bottom of that list.

Good to hear. Sounds like my issues are not yours at all. See... different swings create different results.

I think the 790's are borderline as well. The soles on those are not that thick and they have some decent camber. Spin got me on those. I didn't have the consistency as I did with the 770 or 750 in the 6-pw. Needed to sort out the bottom of the bag as well and add a wedge. The PW in the 790's is a small cannon.