Yamada Putter

bazinozbazinoz Posts: 498 ✭✭
Hi all.



I'm about to receive this little gem, a Yamada Musashi. My first Yamada putter. It probably requires a little TLC when I get it, but think it might turn out to be a beauty.



Interested to hear any information and opinions about these putters.The only threads I can find seem a few years old. Do they still make them? The Yamada website mentioned in earlier threads seems to be no longer operating. From everything I've read they seem to be excellent quality and have great feel. Here's hoping.



This Musashi is apparently the same/similar to their 85029 putter. Anyone out there own one and can tell me what they think?

My quest will now be on to find a Yamada Razor. I collect 8802 styles, and that one looks a beauty.



IMG_3459_2.png



IMG_3461_2.png

Comments

  • Rob McHughRob McHugh Rob ClubWRX Posts: 971 ClubWRX
    Beautiful putter mate! Yamada putters are awesome :-)



    Rob
  • bazinozbazinoz Posts: 498 ✭✭
    Rob McHugh wrote:


    Beautiful putter mate! Yamada putters are awesome :-)



    Rob




    Wow, that was quick Rob image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />



    Thanks for chiming in. I value your opinion, they must be good.

    I take it you've probably got 15 of them image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
  • OpinderOpinder Banned Posts: 422
    Crane putter make by Japan. It's rarely

    That's golf club!



    Check on EBay.
  • bazinozbazinoz Posts: 498 ✭✭
    Opinder wrote:


    Crane putter make by Japan. It's rarely

    That's golf club!



    Check on EBay.




    Yeah, checked eBay. But not seen one of these Musashi's for sale (or a 85029).



    If you see one, send me a link please.
  • 95124hacker95124hacker Rare putter collection Members Posts: 1,287 ✭✭
    I own 2 Yamadas, one custom & one machine milled (Oldman model). I believe he retired and doesn’t hand mill anymore.
    ‘17 M2 “K serial” 10.5* turned down a notch, Fujikura Pro Tour Spec 63S
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  • bazinozbazinoz Posts: 498 ✭✭
    Got my hands on it now.



    Overall it's in excellent shape with virtually no dings or scuffs. Face top and sole are great. Paint fill needs re-doing.



    But there is quite a bit of corrosion in the corners of the cavity. The major detracting point.



    What's the best way of getting that removed? Coke bath? WD40 and steel wool?

    Or would it be best to send somewhere good for a refurb?



    And, open to suggestions of the best grip to put on it. Should I go original Yamada grip? Or would it be fine with a Golf Pride, or Iomic etc.

    IMG_3490.jpg



    .IMG_3489.jpg



    IMG_3488.jpg
  • GimmieHendrixGimmieHendrix Unregistered Posts: 153
    I would match the grip to the stroke type more than anything. As Scotty Cameron says, oversized grips work well for "robotic SBST" but not for "flowing arc stroke". Right here: https://www.scottycameron.com/articles/scotty-thoughts-picking-the-right-putter-for-your-game/



    It looks toe balanced, I would stick with original for a couple thousand putts then assess. I would definitely stick with standard size first, whatever your fave feeling one is, and evolve from there. Good club makers match the grips well, even if it's not an expensive grip I would trust in their choice at first until you've spent some time with it. My two cents. Lovely club, fully jealous. image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
  • bazinozbazinoz Posts: 498 ✭✭


    I would match the grip to the stroke type more than anything. As Scotty Cameron says, oversized grips work well for "robotic SBST" but not for "flowing arc stroke". Right here: https://www.scottyca...-for-your-game/



    It looks toe balanced, I would stick with original for a couple thousand putts then assess. I would definitely stick with standard size first, whatever your fave feeling one is, and evolve from there. Good club makers match the grips well, even if it's not an expensive grip I would trust in their choice at first until you've spent some time with it. My two cents. Lovely club, fully jealous. image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />




    Yes, thanks GH, I'll be putting a standard grip on it. Just wondering on whether to keep with a Yamada Grip, or a 3rd party decent grip.



    I'm still after ways to remove the corrosion in the cavity. Anyone? What's the best method? Pretty hard to get right in the corners.
  • extrastiffextrastiff Members Posts: 857 ✭✭
    bazinoz wrote:


    I would match the grip to the stroke type more than anything. As Scotty Cameron says, oversized grips work well for "robotic SBST" but not for "flowing arc stroke". Right here: [url="https://www.scottycameron.com/articles/scotty-thoughts-picking-the-right-putter-for-your-game/"]https://www.scottyca...-for-your-game/[/url]



    It looks toe balanced, I would stick with original for a couple thousand putts then assess. I would definitely stick with standard size first, whatever your fave feeling one is, and evolve from there. Good club makers match the grips well, even if it's not an expensive grip I would trust in their choice at first until you've spent some time with it. My two cents. Lovely club, fully jealous. image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />




    Yes, thanks GH, I'll be putting a standard grip on it. Just wondering on whether to keep with a Yamada Grip, or a 3rd party decent grip.



    I'm still after ways to remove the corrosion in the cavity. Anyone? What's the best method? Pretty hard to get right in the corners.




    Dremel with a buffer attachment Is where I would start
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    f8 15* | hzrdus black 75 6.5
    p790 4i | steelfiber 95x
    black utility onelength 22.5*, 26* | steelfiber 110x
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  • extrastiffextrastiff Members Posts: 857 ✭✭
    bazinoz wrote:


    I would match the grip to the stroke type more than anything. As Scotty Cameron says, oversized grips work well for "robotic SBST" but not for "flowing arc stroke". Right here: [url="https://www.scottycameron.com/articles/scotty-thoughts-picking-the-right-putter-for-your-game/"]https://www.scottyca...-for-your-game/[/url]



    It looks toe balanced, I would stick with original for a couple thousand putts then assess. I would definitely stick with standard size first, whatever your fave feeling one is, and evolve from there. Good club makers match the grips well, even if it's not an expensive grip I would trust in their choice at first until you've spent some time with it. My two cents. Lovely club, fully jealous. image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />




    Yes, thanks GH, I'll be putting a standard grip on it. Just wondering on whether to keep with a Yamada Grip, or a 3rd party decent grip.



    I'm still after ways to remove the corrosion in the cavity. Anyone? What's the best method? Pretty hard to get right in the corners.




    Everything else u risk messing with the paint and/or finish. Steel wool doesnt touch putter unless I'm refinishing
    g400 max 9* | hzrdus black 75 6.5
    f8 15* | hzrdus black 75 6.5
    p790 4i | steelfiber 95x
    black utility onelength 22.5*, 26* | steelfiber 110x
    forged onelength 6i | steelfiber 110x
    p730 7i-pw | steelfiber 110x
    hi-toe 52*9, 56*8, 62*5 | steelfiber 110x
    columbus
    jumbomax tour medium grips
  • GimmieHendrixGimmieHendrix Unregistered Posts: 153
    I would definitely hit the original Yamada grip first. No question. Might be perfect. I'm a big fan of leaving perfection be.
  • lhahnlhahn Members Posts: 373 ✭✭
    edited Oct 12, 2018 #13
    Before I bought my putter from a shop in Fukuoka, I was speaking with John and I think Mr. Yamada is making putters again but in a more limited fashion I believe.



    Here's what John told me...(I was looking for something like the 85029)



    "The price for the handmade models is $575 plus about $12 shipping to US and $75 international. They can take about 4 or 5 months to receive. The last order was longer but he promises he can make them a bit faster now. You have the choice of the burning copper or smoke finish, both are beautiful. Includes a leather yamada grip and headcover."



    Pictures of models are here: [url="https://www.facebook.com/Yamada-Putters-448972735129908/"]https://www.facebook.com/Yamada-Putters-448972735129908/[/url]



    John's email is [email protected]



    I was originally going to change the grip of the putter but after using it for a bit now, I'm pretty used to the stock Yamada putter fwiw



    If you do find a good solution to removing the pitting please share =). I'm too scared to mess with the burning copper finish.
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    TM P790 18*
    Mizuno JPX 919T 4-PW
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    Yamada Emperor 33"
    Ksig
  • GimmieHendrixGimmieHendrix Unregistered Posts: 153
    edited Oct 12, 2018 #14


    I was originally going to change the grip of the putter but after using it for a bit now, I'm pretty used to the stock Yamada putter fwiw




    I love this. This is where it's at. Yamada would never present you with a club he felt needed immediate regripping. If you believe in the Japanese "maker" experience then surely part of that is honoring his choice at least initially and trying to see his wisdom in it. I love this post. image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />


    $12 shipping to US and $75 international.




    We need to hip these guys to Canada. Windsor, Ontario is 10 minutes south of Detroit, Michigan. $63 difference? image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
  • bazinozbazinoz Posts: 498 ✭✭
    lhahn wrote:






    Pictures of models are here: https://www.facebook...48972735129908/



    John's email is [email protected]





    If you do find a good solution to removing the pitting please share =). I'm too scared to mess with the burning copper finish.






    Thanks for the info and facebook link mate.



    I have had a little go at removing the pitting.

    I gave it a bath in coke for a day. It cleaned up a little.

    But best result was with CLR and a scrub with a toothbrush.



    Most of the corrosion pitting is now gone although the finish in the corners of the cavity is obviously not the same now. I hadn't realised exactly how beautiful and fine the original finish is even in the cavity. Some superb milling.



    I have also had a try at re-doing the paint fill. Same orange/white colours at the moment to see what it looks like.



    IMG-3502.jpg



    IMG-3501.jpg



    IMG-3503.jpg
  • tsupotsupo ClubWRX Posts: 1,179 ✭✭
    edited Jan 4, 2019 5:52am #16
    send this.to golds.factory .

    dont mess with it.

    musashis are very very good.

    .85029 is the os version of the domestic custom only hand made .ibushi, not.musashi.



    diff fish.
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  • 1puttTUT1puttTUT Lefty with occasional game Members Posts: 3,356 ✭✭
    I had a razor once upon a time, but I sold it because carbon steel putters scare me. It's just too wet where I live. It was a beauty and felt great though. Enjoy!
  • MuligansMuligans Members Posts: 20 ✭✭
    A treasure found. Congratulations! You hardly see that around, info is also scarce.



    Would definitely like to know the difference between the Musashi & Ibushi.









  • MobMob Just Another Lefty Members Posts: 3,458 ✭✭
    It's a shame you aren't left handed.



  • MuligansMuligans Members Posts: 20 ✭✭
    Mob wrote:


    It's a shame you aren't left handed.



  • MuligansMuligans Members Posts: 20 ✭✭
    if I was a lefty I would be I would be all over that. I take it the the difference between the Ibushi and Musashi is the insert?
  • MobMob Just Another Lefty Members Posts: 3,458 ✭✭
    I don’t know much about the ibushi, so I can’t comment on the difference. The Mushashi in burning copper is a beautiful putter, great feel, and well balanced.
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