Can you pull a Graphite shaft out of an adapter without a shaft extractor?

judahaderholdjudahaderhold Members Posts: 117 ✭✭
edited Oct 15, 2018 in WRX Club Techs #1
Like the title says, I’ve seen YouTube videos of people pulling graphite shafts out of adapters, but all the ones I’ve seen always use a shaft extractor, and I was just wondering if it’s possible to do it without an extractor? Thanks

Comments

  • Sparky14Sparky14 Members Posts: 359 ✭✭
    Yes, but you won't be able to use the shaft again.
  • whitembwhitemb Members Posts: 277 ✭✭
    Long ago, before I could afford a fancy-shmancy extractor, I filed a 0.34" notch in a flat pry bar and used it in conjunction with a bench vice. Worked pretty well.
  • judahaderholdjudahaderhold Members Posts: 117 ✭✭
    whitemb wrote:


    Long ago, before I could afford a fancy-shmancy extractor, I filed a 0.34" notch in a flat pry bar and used it in conjunction with a bench vice. Worked pretty well.
    Hey that’s a pretty good idea! I might have to try something like that (probably with a cheap shaft first) :)Thanks for letting me know it could be done image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
  • JagpilotohioJagpilotohio 45+ inch drivers are evil. Columbus, OHMembers Posts: 7,223 ✭✭
    whitemb wrote:


    Long ago, before I could afford a fancy-shmancy extractor, I filed a 0.34" notch in a flat pry bar and used it in conjunction with a bench vice. Worked pretty well.




    For wood adapters or irons? I used to do the same 20 years ago but only with irons and woods with actual hosels. The top of the hosel is a Much bigger surface to pull on than the edge of an adapter......of course they didn’t have adapters back then. Maybe it would work.
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  • whitembwhitemb Members Posts: 277 ✭✭
    edited Oct 15, 2018 #6

    whitemb wrote:


    Long ago, before I could afford a fancy-shmancy extractor, I filed a 0.34" notch in a flat pry bar and used it in conjunction with a bench vice. Worked pretty well.




    For wood adapters or irons? I used to do the same 20 years ago but only with irons and woods with actual hosels. The top of the hosel is a Much bigger surface to pull on than the edge of an adapter......of course they didn’t have adapters back then. Maybe it would work.




    True - I used that to pull shafts from woods long before adapters (even those on fitting carts). I got the notch just wide enough to fit around a 0.335 shaft.
  • DavewnDavewn West Des Moines, IAMembers Posts: 596 ✭✭
    edited Oct 15, 2018 #7

    whitemb wrote:


    Long ago, before I could afford a fancy-shmancy extractor, I filed a 0.34" notch in a flat pry bar and used it in conjunction with a bench vice. Worked pretty well.




    For wood adapters or irons? I used to do the same 20 years ago but only with irons and woods with actual hosels. The top of the hosel is a Much bigger surface to pull on than the edge of an adapter......of course they didn’t have adapters back then. Maybe it would work.




    I still use a pry bar type graphite shaft puller I got from Dynacraft about 15 years or so ago. It's pretty easy to pull an adapter using the anchor screw and fender washer. You'll probably need a smaller washer as well to sandwich between the screw and fender washer as the head of the screw is so small. I just tape a small scrap of 1"x 2" to the side of my bench vise's jaw to accommodate the extra length of the adapter as it can't be held flush with the side of the jaw like a standard hosel can. I've found they pop off very easily this way.
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  • GOLF4373GOLF4373 Members Posts: 275 ✭✭
    edited Oct 15, 2018 #8
    No need for any of those tricks if you don’t want to use the shaft again. You can just heat the adapter with a torch and twist the adapter off with pliers. Easy and quick. Just be careful of the plastic ferel if it has one. You can use a slice of a rubber grip so you don’t scratch the adapter.
  • AlbatrosssAlbatrosss Members Posts: 44
    As said, if you not gonna use the shaft again you can remove it manually without any problems.



    If you want to remove the shaft manually for reuse it is not a good idea but in theory it can be done if you do not twist the shaft at all when removing it. From experience using a twisting motion when removing a shaft manually is something that seems to be in the human DNA and is extremely difficult to not do. If you are going to give it a go I would fix the head position somehow. Have someone heating the hosel with a heating gun slowly while you apply a pulling force from the shaft end without any twisting motion at all. But as said I think it will be very difficult and it will be worth a few bucks to have it removed by a professional instead if you want to keep the shaft.
  • IvanDragoIvanDrago Members Posts: 451 ✭✭
    I put a screw in the adapter not al the way in and use mole grips on that. then any twisting is taken by the screw.



    had good results
  • Bar_StrollBar_Stroll Members Posts: 214 ✭✭
    The screw and washer looks like it's pretty easy. I'll be trying it this weekend on a graphite shaft myself.
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  • AlbatrosssAlbatrosss Members Posts: 44
    IvanDrago wrote:


    I put a screw in the adapter not al the way in and use mole grips on that. then any twisting is taken by the screw.



    had good results




    If you have an adapter that most shaft has today this is probably a very smart move if you gonna do it manually. When I tried to do it manually I had no adapter and it was very hard. Attach the screw and washer trough a small ball bearing that is fixed could decrease the twisting motion even more.
  • halliedoghalliedog Members Posts: 2,347 ✭✭
    Albatrosss wrote:

    IvanDrago wrote:


    I put a screw in the adapter not al the way in and use mole grips on that. then any twisting is taken by the screw.



    had good results




    If you have an adapter that most shaft has today this is probably a very smart move if you gonna do it manually. When I tried to do it manually I had no adapter and it was very hard. Attach the screw and washer trough a small ball bearing that is fixed could decrease the twisting motion even more.
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  • wkuo3wkuo3 RELEASE Members Posts: 3,853 ✭✭
    Of course you can extract the graphite shaft from the driver without the shaft puller/extractor.

    Only if you take the chance that the shaft will not be reusable.



    I would not do this with an expensive shaft but if you could find a means to secure the hosel and back out the shaft linearly without twisting, you could chance it and pull out the shaft. Just heat up the hosel slowly, make sure the epoxy bonding is broken before attempting to pull the shaft out.

    Home made tools / attachment will help. It will take more effort and time than using the proper tool for the task but it's possible.
  • swgolf12swgolf12 Members Posts: 897 ✭✭
    A good shaft puller is $200. It pays for itself many times over. You can build a DIY shaft puller for even cheaper. Find something that secures the shaft and can force the head off straightly.
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  • halliedoghalliedog Members Posts: 2,347 ✭✭
    edited Oct 17, 2018 #16
    I'm not recommending this, but I've had pretty good success using IvanDrago's method.



    The key for my successes has been to wrap the shaft/ferrule with a cold, damp strip of rag/t-shirt. Put a fender washer between screw and adapter. Then heat the adapter quickly with a micro-torch (never a heat gun, and make sure the flame is mostly directed at lower 2/3s of adapter - never the shaft/ferrule), and use vise grips to grab the washer and pull as straight back as possible.



    I would never use a heat gun for shaft removal, especially on graphite, even with a puller. Takes longer to heat the epoxy to breakdown point, and heat isn't as concentrated so spreads through adapter up the shaft/ferrule while reaching breakdown point.



    I'm surprised Nessism hasn't weighed in on this yet - usually he's on these topics quicker than Bobcat on a SLDR thread image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />!



    BTW, I've had a few miserable failures with my first few attempts at this method, and I never try to sell pulled shafts, so I'm not a threat to the community, before someone brings that up.
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  • MychMych Members Posts: 1,814 ✭✭
    edited Oct 18, 2018 #17
    I still used the one that I Frankensteined together a few years ago. It's not what you'd want if you're running a shop, but for occasional use in your garage it gets the job done. I've pulled dozens of shafts/tips with it. Like someone said before, find a way to apply force in a straight line and you're good.



    http://www.golfwrx.c...5-shaft-puller/
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  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,281 ✭✭
    Mych wrote:


    I still used the one that I Frankensteined together a few years ago. It's not what you'd want if you're running a shop, but for occasional use in your garage it gets the job done. I've pulled dozens of shafts/tips with it. Like someone said before, find a way to apply force in a straight line and you're good.



    http://www.golfwrx.c...5-shaft-puller/






    With apologies for bringing up a negative....



    How is your Achilles doing? How long was recovery?
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  • MychMych Members Posts: 1,814 ✭✭
    NRJyzr wrote:

    Mych wrote:


    I still used the one that I Frankensteined together a few years ago. It's not what you'd want if you're running a shop, but for occasional use in your garage it gets the job done. I've pulled dozens of shafts/tips with it. Like someone said before, find a way to apply force in a straight line and you're good.



    [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1032935-diy-5-shaft-puller/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...5-shaft-puller/[/url]






    With apologies for bringing up a negative....



    How is your Achilles doing? How long was recovery?




    Achilles is great, I was on crutches for a couple months (I highly recommend the iWalk crutch) and my doc was pretty aggressive about getting back out and getting lots of exercise so I was golfing relatively quickly. It's been a while, so I can't remember exactly how soon.
    "Of all the hazards, fear is the worst" - Sam Snead
    Main bag: Cobra Fly-Z 10.5*~ F6 Baffler 4-5w ~ Mizuno JPX Fli-Hi 3H ~ King Utility ~ King Forged One 4-P ~ King 50-V, 56-V wedges ~ Nike MC-02W
    6 club minimalist: Cobra King Utility ~ Forged One 5/7/9 ~ Cleveland 588 Diadic 53* wedge ~ Nike MC-02W ~ Silo Club Carrier
  • AwalkspoiledAwalkspoiled Members Posts: 3,308 ✭✭
    Certainly you can do without a shaft extractor. You will need a metal-sided rubber shaft clamp-pad, a bar clamp 9two is better), a long bolt which fits in the adapter sole, a couple of washers and strong piece of wood like a foot-long 1 by 4 with a hole drilled through it. You'll also need a heat gun or a torch.



    Install the clamp pad on the shaft within a foot or so of the tip, using the bar-clamp to keep it in place. Don't over tighten or you'll crack the shaft. Two bar clamps side by side is better

    Heat the adapter for a minute with a heatgun or 30 seconds with the torch

    Put the washer on the bolt and install it through there piece of wood into the sole of the hosel

    Put your feet on the sides of the bar clamp and grab the piece of wood with your hands

    Pull as straight as you can - slow and steady. If you get no movement heat the adapter a little more.



    You can use a pair of c-clamps instead of the bar clamp. The key is to never twist the shaft but to pull straight. The hardest part is finding a bolt which will fit in the sole of the adapter and still be long enough to go through the wood - it'll usually be metric btw...
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  • cxxcxx Members Posts: 3,092 ✭✭
    You can pull a graphite shaft without an extractor, but it's much easier to ruin the shaft if you are free handing it. That said, I've pulled plenty of shafts from fixed heads and reused them (for myself). Pulling an adapter is much easier.



    If you are doing this for yourself, give it a try. Just be careful.
  • Bar_StrollBar_Stroll Members Posts: 214 ✭✭
    I just did mine a few minutes ago, couldn't have been more simple. Bought a $5 shaft holder that goes in a standard bench clamp. Put the screw in the adapter and clamped on vice grips. Heat the adapter and pulled from the head of the vice grips. Slid right off, 95% of the glue was in the adapter. Shaft looked perfect.
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  • sixtysevensixtysevensixtysevensixtyseven Members Posts: 2,028
    You will destroy a shaft if you pull it without a puller eventually. The pry bar method is less than ideal but it can work.



    If you don't feel like making one Golf Works sells one for $9.
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,096 ✭✭
    edited Oct 26, 2018 #24
    Bar_Stroll wrote:


    Shaft looked perfect.




    Unfortunately, not all of the possible damage is visible, generally only the extreme screw ups will be noticeable. I'm not saying your pull didn't go well, your shaft could very well be perfectly fine. But the point is that you really wont really know how successful it was or not until after you install it on another club and hit with it a few times.
  • Shanks2424Shanks2424 Members Posts: 240 ✭✭
    edited Oct 26, 2018 #25
    I have a way that works perfect. Get a 2x4 block of wood. Drill a hole in the center the size or just a tad bit bigger of the screw that bolts your shaft and driver together. Go to your local hardware store find a allen bolt that will thread into the shaft sleeve and that is long enough. Make sure its long so you feed it through the 2x4 and then thread it on make sure that you can spin it freely. The take your torch or head gun start heating up the sleeve wile spinning it so you can get a even coat say anywhere between 25-45 seconds. Then sand the shaft straight up stand on the 2x4 and pull straight up and it will come loose. I have done this for Titleist for a buddy and cobra for my sons driver and 3 wood. I will post a photo tonight lol.



    PS: I forgot buy a few washers for one on the bolt head and one for the hosel sleeve side.
    Post edited by Unknown User on
    Brad's Bag 2019
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  • e-mane-man Members Posts: 2,055 ✭✭
    Shanks -- even if you pull straight up, isn't there still a chance that you will slightly twist it?
  • jlebeane13jlebeane13 Members Posts: 334 ✭✭
    Stuart G. wrote:

    Bar_Stroll wrote:


    Shaft looked perfect.




    Unfortunately, not all of the possible damage is visible, generally only the extreme screw ups will be noticeable. I'm not saying your pull didn't go well, your shaft could very well be perfectly fine. But the point is that you really wont really know how successful it was or not until after you install it on another club and hit with it a few times.


    +1

    You can weaken the integrity of the shaft tip without ever knowing it until you hit a half dozen balls and the shift snaps.
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  • Shanks2424Shanks2424 Members Posts: 240 ✭✭
    e-man wrote:


    Shanks -- even if you pull straight up, isn't there still a chance that you will slightly twist it?




    There is always a chance to damage a shaft using a shaft puller too to. Each to its own I will keep doing this untill I damage a shaft. When pulling a shaft you have a greater chance in my opinion to mess up the tip with heat. The Titleist shaft I pulled I barely gave it a pull stright up it popped free it all depends on the expoxy. Just take your time and my way will work
    Brad's Bag 2019
    Driver- Titleist 910 D3 8.5 Fujikura Speeder Pro TS Stiff
    3 Wood- Titleist 909 F3 15* Matrix HD9 Stiff
    Hybrid- Adams A12 Pro 18* Project X PXI 6.0
    3-PW- Mizuno MP57 3-PW TT Dynamic Gold S300
    Wedges-Cleveland 588 Forged Raw 54/58 TT Dynamic Gold S300
    Putter- Odyssey Tank 1 34 Inches Super Stroke Flatso 1.0
    Ball- Titleist Pro V1
    Bag Ogio Woode Stand Bag
     Grips Lamkin Crossline 58 Round 2 Wraps of Tape

    Gavin's Bad 9 Year old son
    Driver- Cobra Fly Z 12.5 Junior Cobra Shaft
    4Wood- Cobra Amp 16.5 Cobra Junior Shaft[/background]
    Hybrid- ???????
    6-PW Cobra Max Apollo Junior Steel Shaft
    Wedges- Cobra Max 50*  Cobra Pur 56* Apollo Junior Steel Shaft
    Putter- Odyssey Metal X Rossie Super Stroke Ultra Slim 1.0
    Ball- Titleist DTtru Soft.
    Bag- Maxfli Black and Blue Junior Bag
    Winn Dritec on Driver and 3 Wood
    Golf Pride Junior Tour Velvet On Irons and Wedges.
  • cxxcxx Members Posts: 3,092 ✭✭
    It's really not that scary or hard to do. You want to quickly get the hosel up to temperature so that the shaft doesn't get too hot. Pull the head off without twisting. A vice really helps.



    Now if you just spent $1000 for the shaft then you might get more nervous. But for more reasonably priced shafts for your own re-use, go ahead and try.
  • Bar_StrollBar_Stroll Members Posts: 214 ✭✭
    Stuart G. wrote:

    Bar_Stroll wrote:


    Shaft looked perfect.




    Unfortunately, not all of the possible damage is visible, generally only the extreme screw ups will be noticeable. I'm not saying your pull didn't go well, your shaft could very well be perfectly fine. But the point is that you really wont really know how successful it was or not until after you install it on another club and hit with it a few times.




    Yep, I understand that. I glued the pulled shaft into a titleist hybrid immediately and played it the next day. I probably hit 6 balls with it playing and hitting extra shots to test it and it's still in one piece.



    You and a lot of other guys have tons more experience than me but I just feel like you have a better chance of doing damage with heat. Pulling straight on an adapter with a screw half way in that can twist seems relatively difficult to have things go wrong. I would not have the same confidence pulling a head off a shaft, I wouldn't even try it.



    Also, I've done this once. Ever. Just to be perfectly clear. Use your own judgement obviously.
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    Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 3+ - Fujikura Atmos TS Red 8X
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    Callaway Rogue Pro 4-PW - KBS C-Taper 130X
    Callaway MD4 50.10S C-Taper 130X
    Callaway MD4, 54.10S and 58.08C - KBS 610
    Bobby Grace "Night and Day"
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,096 ✭✭
    edited Oct 29, 2018 #31
    Bar_Stroll wrote:


    but I just feel like you have a better chance of doing damage with heat.




    Sorry, I'm not sure I understand the concern you're trying to express here?



    Heating method will be a concern for any pulling method (with graphite - I've heard of a rare occurrence of cold pulls with steel but I wouldn't recommend it with graphite). The best way to minimize is to use a device/method with preload so you know exactly when the joint gives (and can then stop applying any more heat).


    Bar_Stroll wrote:


    Pulling straight on an adapter with a screw half way in that can twist seems relatively difficult to have things go wrong.




    It's true that the screw prevents torque about the axis of the shaft being transmitted to the adapter - which is probably the worst source of damage when not using an extractor. But this is a 3 dimensional world so there are 2 other axis in which torque can still be transmitted to the adapter if the direction you pull is not perfectly aligned with the shaft axis. That's the real benefit of an extractor - they are designed to ensure that the pulling force really does match the shaft axis.
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