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Moving to heavier iron shafts but keeping tip weights?


third-times-a-charm

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I'm switching my XP95 shafts to Modus3 105 shafts (R to S) and the XP95 shafts came with tip weights, from what I assume was swing weighting from the manufacturer.

 

I dont have a SW scale myself, but if I keep the weights in their respective heads - do I basically just have 10g heavier shafts (on average) with the new flex? Or are the weights going to effect the new shafts in some way? Should they be removed all together?

 

Is it just effecting something that is personal preference; IE when someone likes heavier clubhead feel or is it a performance issue?

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Reusing the tip weight will likely result in a build that's at least close to SW matched - BUT that assumes your length cuts are perfectly matched to the previous build and also important to realize that it wont ensure any particular SW value.

 

Unlikely to be any performance issue except for how you personally might respond to the new combination of shaft weight and swing weight (whatever it might be). Some people are more sensitive than others so impossible to say how much of an impact it might be.

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Reusing the tip weight will likely result in a build that's at least close to SW matched - BUT that assumes your length cuts are perfectly matched to the previous build and also important to realize that it wont ensure any particular SW value.

 

Unlikely to be any performance issue except for how you personally might respond to the new combination of shaft weight and swing weight (whatever it might be). Some people are more sensitive than others so impossible to say how much of an impact it might be.

 

Alright. I'll re-use them and go hit some balls. From reading past topics it seems anything under 10g is really negligible and can't be noticed by any non-Pro players.

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Reusing the tip weight will likely result in a build that's at least close to SW matched - BUT that assumes your length cuts are perfectly matched to the previous build and also important to realize that it wont ensure any particular SW value.

 

Unlikely to be any performance issue except for how you personally might respond to the new combination of shaft weight and swing weight (whatever it might be). Some people are more sensitive than others so impossible to say how much of an impact it might be.

 

Alright. I'll re-use them and go hit some balls. From reading past topics it seems anything under 10g is really negligible and can't be noticed by any non-Pro players.

 

I think its always a better idea to have the added weight and be "closer" to a spec you prefer vs too "light". I am about 10 grams per iron head on my 1/2" shorter builds and with out the wights, I can totally lose the head in my take away and at the top and my ball striking suffers. I think it is very noticeable for someone who is non-pro level or scratch. I play to a 9 hand currently FWIW. Good luck op!

 

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I think its always a better idea to have the added weight and be "closer" to a spec you prefer vs too "light".

 

Too heavy or too light can both be significant problems for some. One isn't generally any 'better' than the other. And it's very easy to use lead tape (or even lead/tungsten powder down steel shafts) to increase the head weight after a build if it is too light - but it's impossible to easily remove any weight if it's too heavy. Then the only option is to pull the heads and remove/change the tip weights.

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I think its always a better idea to have the added weight and be "closer" to a spec you prefer vs too "light".

 

Too heavy or too light can both be significant problems for some. One isn't generally any 'better' than the other. And it's very easy to use lead tape (or even lead/tungsten powder down steel shafts) to increase the head weight after a build if it is too light - but it's impossible to easily remove any weight if it's too heavy. Then the only option is to pull the heads and remove/change the tip weights.

 

I agree, just referring to the OP and assuming he liked the feel of the original set he had with the 95 and tip weights and then moving up to slightly heavier shaft. Typically, I have 6 iron built to spec with/wo tip weights (since I am - 1/2 to -3/4") on my irons to test and hit balls. I know with 6 balls if I can feel the heads properly for my swing. Then once happy, I have the set built to spec.

 

PXG GEN6 0311 10.5*DRIVER/FUJI RED VELOCORE 6S/GP TW WHT

PXG GEN5 0311XF 17*FAIRWAY/FUJI MOTORE X F3 7S/GP TW WHT

PXG GEN3 0311XP 3 IRON/TT ELEVATE TOUR S/WINN DT WRAP

PXG GEN3 0311P 4-PW/TT ELEVATE TOUR S/WINN DT WRAP

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A 10 gram heavier shaft will add 1 SW point. Different shafts also have different balance points that could change the SW up to 2-3 SW. I don't know these shafts good enough to tell but I think you at least could calculate the SW of one of your clubs today and then put together one club without any glue and calculate it with and without tip weight and see where it comes out as. There is online calculation tools available for this and you only need a scale and measuring tape to do it.

 

http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWT.HTM

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A 10 gram heavier shaft will add 1 SW point.

 

Forget that 'rule' - it's useless.

 

Different shafts also have different balance points that could change the SW up to 2-3 SW.

 

Balance point can have a bigger effect than that (which is the main reason the above rule is useless).

 

 

I don't know these shafts good enough to tell but I think you at least could calculate the SW of one of your clubs today and then put together one club without any glue and calculate it with and without tip weight and see where it comes out as. There is online calculation tools available for this and you only need a scale and measuring tape to do it.

 

http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWT.HTM

 

Yes, that's one good approach.

 

another version of the same thing

https://www.hirekogolf.com/golf-club-swingweight-calculator

 

Hireko also has a calculator that can be used before assembling the club by measuring the component weights individually and the balance point of the uninstalled (but cut to length) shaft. You do need adobe flash for it to work.

 

https://www.hirekogolf.com/golf-clubfitting-interactive-calculators

 

Either way. Another approach is just building a single iron and actually going out and just testing it on the range before building the rest of the set. Particularly since we don't really have a valid target swing weight to shoot for with the new shaft and shaft weight.

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A 10 gram heavier shaft will add 1 SW point.

 

Forget that 'rule' - it's useless.

 

Different shafts also have different balance points that could change the SW up to 2-3 SW.

 

Balance point can have a bigger effect than that (which is the main reason the above rule is useless).

 

 

I don't know these shafts good enough to tell but I think you at least could calculate the SW of one of your clubs today and then put together one club without any glue and calculate it with and without tip weight and see where it comes out as. There is online calculation tools available for this and you only need a scale and measuring tape to do it.

 

http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWT.HTM

 

Yes, that's one good approach.

 

another version of the same thing

https://www.hirekogo...ight-calculator

 

Hireko also has a calculator that can be used before assembling the club by measuring the component weights individually and the balance point of the uninstalled (but cut to length) shaft. You do need adobe flash for it to work.

 

https://www.hirekogo...ive-calculators

 

Either way. Another approach is just building a single iron and actually going out and just testing it on the range before building the rest of the set. Particularly since we don't really have a valid target swing weight to shoot for with the new shaft and shaft weight.

 

I guess my point was it is wise to calculate this somehow as it can come out a little bit everywhere from my own experience.

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A 10 gram heavier shaft will add 1 SW point.

 

Forget that 'rule' - it's useless.

 

Different shafts also have different balance points that could change the SW up to 2-3 SW.

 

Balance point can have a bigger effect than that (which is the main reason the above rule is useless).

 

Stuart, just out of curiosity, what kind of iron shaft at the same weight would generate a bigger SW change than 2-3?

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Stuart, just out of curiosity, what kind of iron shaft at the same weight would generate a bigger SW change than 2-3?

 

It's not common to see such large differences in shafts of the same weight but it can happen. I've personally seen a 4 sw pt difference between the Recoil 110's and the SF i110's. There are always exceptions (which is why we should make assumptions), but the shaft designers generally take into consideration SW when designing the balance point so a good percentage of shafts will SW similarly in a rough sense (maybe within 3 sw pts) given the same length and head weight.

 

But the comment was really more in the context of looking at how balance point can affect the SW when the shaft weights are not the same weight (in combination with using that rule that shouldn't be used). e.g. for an 80 gm shaft that is designed to balance (SW) the same as a 130 gm shaft, then the balance point is accounting for a 5 sw pt difference.

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It's always best to use a swingweight scale and proper club length ruler when building iron sets. Buying pulls and slamming them into your existing heads can lead to both length and swingweight inconsistencies. It's just not worth it.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
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Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

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is anyone helping the OP to make it right?

 

Take the iron thats normally your favorite, Put it together WITHOUT the tip wgt that belongs to the head.

Test that club, and add lead tape on the head until it works as you want it.

 

NOW its time to measure that club and you DONT need a SW SCALE, but you need a gram scale and a millimeter ruler

 

- Balance the club on one finger to find the approximate BP

- Add some painters tape around the shaft at this spot.

- Put a knife in a vise with the edge up, and put the club with the painters tape on the knife edge

- Adjust the club back and forth until you find the spot where the club can rest in balance

- Push the club down against the knife to set a mark in the tape (not the shaft, thats why we added the tape)

- Measure from the butt end of the grip and down to this knife mark (balance point) and take notes

- Rip of the painter tape and put the club on a gram scale to get the total wgt in grams

 

Go to this web page, and enter total wgt and distance to BP and the page will return a SW value

http://www.leaderboard.com/SWINGWT.HTM

 

Now you got a target value to build the clubs to, the classic way with the same SW value for all, or progressive SW value, either as a 4/8" or a 3/8" set.

 

A RULER for play length is needed to make sure all shafts is cut correct.

If you dont have one, you can "draw" your own if you can make a 60* Pyramid, and combine it with a metric or imperial ruler like this. (scroll down to a photo of a Ruler)

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...up-diy-fitting/

 

If you dont remember how to draw a 60* pyramid take a look here:

 

DONT build a set to a "standard SW value", this is your opportunity to fit this parameter so this clubs works for YOU, dont miss it, and just ask for help if any questions

 

PS! during dry fit, remember the wgt of the ferrule, (use a tape and fix it to the shaft outside, but at the right place)

You DONT need grip on to dry fit, just use a value 9 SWP above target if you are using a 50 gram grip, or simply rip of the grip on your newly fitted favorite club, and measure SW value without grip so you have a short cut to that value when adjusting the other clubs. Then you dont have to worry about what grip wgt does or not, they will all be good if you do it this way

 

You can grind down (shorten), the tip weights you got if they turn out to be to heavy for reinstall after you found what value to build to yourself, so make sure they are marked with head # before you start.

 

Good luck and ask if any questions

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Looks like the clubs are, with a 'quick and dirty' calculation, around D4 right now. Which makes sense as the clubs were probably not exact from the manufacturer to begin with, and it seems they were around D1/D2 from them - adding 10g in shaft weight puts them about D4/D5 so it roughly checks out.

 

I'm going to hit some balls with the heavier D4ish weight and see if I like them....if not I can always re-shaft without the weights.

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Looks like the clubs are, with a 'quick and dirty' calculation, around D4 right now. Which makes sense as the clubs were probably not exact from the manufacturer to begin with, and it seems they were around D1/D2 from them - adding 10g in shaft weight puts them about D4/D5 so it roughly checks out.

 

I'm going to hit some balls with the heavier D4ish weight and see if I like them....if not I can always re-shaft without the weights.

'

 

If you got notes for how much each tip weight was, and what club you installed that tip weight, you can do some reversed numbers to see where you can go without any other changes but removal of the tip wgt.

 

1 SWP is not 2 grams, unless the club is 39.00", so use this chart when you do the numbers.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...0#entry10867357

 

 

PS! if you used the gram scale and BP method and the SW calk at Leaderboard, the return value is correct, if you measured correct distance to BP, and 1 mm off makes a difference, so if you are insecure, measure again, and try 2 different lengths and use the middle value of them. This is why we need to use a metric ruler, 1/8" is 3.17 mm and thats way to much "tolerance" since 1/8" changes SW with 0.75, so 1 mm "off" gives a "error" of 0.25 SWP

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Looks like the clubs are, with a 'quick and dirty' calculation, around D4 right now. Which makes sense as the clubs were probably not exact from the manufacturer to begin with, and it seems they were around D1/D2 from them - adding 10g in shaft weight puts them about D4/D5 so it roughly checks out.

 

I'm going to hit some balls with the heavier D4ish weight and see if I like them....if not I can always re-shaft without the weights.

'

 

If you got notes for how much each tip weight was, and what club you installed that tip weight, you can do some reversed numbers to see where you can go without any other changes but removal of the tip wgt.

 

1 SWP is not 2 grams, unless the club is 39.00", so use this chart when you do the numbers.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...0#entry10867357

 

I only did two clubs before work this morning, but will weigh/calculate the whole set tonight and see.

 

Unfortunately I didn't weigh the tip weights before putting them back in. Theyre all different sizes, too.

PRDYMTC TOUR  9.8° + CQ6 / MVRKTC 15° + UB6 / MVRKTC 18° + UB8 G430 26°@25+ IZ95 / FRGD TEC5-G + MODUS115 / MD5TC / SPDR EXTC + GPS

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Looks like the clubs are, with a 'quick and dirty' calculation, around D4 right now. Which makes sense as the clubs were probably not exact from the manufacturer to begin with, and it seems they were around D1/D2 from them - adding 10g in shaft weight puts them about D4/D5 so it roughly checks out.

 

I'm going to hit some balls with the heavier D4ish weight and see if I like them....if not I can always re-shaft without the weights.

'

 

If you got notes for how much each tip weight was, and what club you installed that tip weight, you can do some reversed numbers to see where you can go without any other changes but removal of the tip wgt.

 

1 SWP is not 2 grams, unless the club is 39.00", so use this chart when you do the numbers.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...0#entry10867357

 

I only did two clubs before work this morning, but will weigh/calculate the whole set tonight and see.

 

Unfortunately I didn't weigh the tip weights before putting them back in. Theyre all different sizes, too.

 

Always take notes, they WILL come handy one day, just saying.....

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Here’s the full set of weights as they stand now-

 

PW D5

9 D3

8 D3

7 D4

6 D4

5 D2

4 D4

 

Looks like the PW and the 5i are the odd men out of the lineup. I’m goijg to keep the 5i as is lighter and go hit it aside the 6i to see which I like better and go from there.

PRDYMTC TOUR  9.8° + CQ6 / MVRKTC 15° + UB6 / MVRKTC 18° + UB8 G430 26°@25+ IZ95 / FRGD TEC5-G + MODUS115 / MD5TC / SPDR EXTC + GPS

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Just keep in mind that that method is subject to some inaccuracies - particularly when measuring the balance point. So I wouldn't recommend taking the results as exact values.

 

They are not that far off, ive runned numbers on that web several times and they seems just fine like i did now on a SW i had liying around

Its 481 grams with a MID size grip, and the SW scale say flat D4 with that grip.

Balance point with a knife is down at 687 mm

 

When i enter those numbers the web return D4

If i add 1 mm to BP it returns D4.5

If i sub 1 mm to BP it returns D3.75

 

its hard to measure more wrong than 1 mm, so if the gram scale is good, and we do our best to measure BP, we get within plus minus 0.25 SWP and thats good enough to get the idea of where we are for those who dont want to invest in a SW scale.

I think its safe to say that plus minus 0.25 SWP is within the tolerances most OEMs use.

 

When the poster above sees 2 SWP as difference, its not a measure error, i had to change PB with 7 mm or about 2/8" to make my wedge drop with 2 SWP with the same total wgt.

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Just keep in mind that that method is subject to some inaccuracies - particularly when measuring the balance point. So I wouldn't recommend taking the results as exact values.

 

They are not that far off,

 

but VERY dependent on the accuracy and precision of the person doing the measuring. YOUR ability to get accurate measurements I would not question :-)

 

Someone who has little experience with building or taking such measurements - that can be a bit more questionable. For irons, being off even just 1/8" for the balance point translates to an error of ~1.1 sw pts. For most, I'd say at least +/- 1 sw pt is not unreasonable to expect, probably a little bit more.

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LOL...its NOT an art-form, i think anyone can see when a club lays flat, and i also think they can measure within 1 mm, so im not that worried about that, and as we all know, a set from OEM is always off one some specs(Loft, Lie, SW value), and when adjusted right, some other specs is moved, and if we want it better than that, we cant get around buying a SW scale and adjust it better than what we can buy from the rack.

 

Hopefully, simple DIY stuff like this can inspire more players to care about their clubs and what specs they got since it removes the money issue for tools they might not want to spend at this point.*

 

Get them started.....thats my idea about sharing stuff like that, and i often suggest that folks rebuild their set to 3/8" who is another task most of us is able to do at home without much tools at all. Its lots we can do to improve our clubs with little or no need for tools at all, and i have to amid that those subjects are among my favorites because i feel that club making is a skill thats about to die, its oldies like me who keeps it alive, but we will all be gone one sunny day, what then?

 

Lets help all the newbies who ask for help as best as we can, and tell them about stuff we can do, and whats the basic tools etc. Forums like this one is about the only place to seek knowledge today, club maker schools hardly exist anymore, and thats why i think its important to help anyone who ask for help, so we can keep the knowledge of club making alive for the future.

 

Yes i know you help out Stuart, i just wish that there where more folks who did, especially all those "silly questions" old members have seen a thousand times, and dont care to answer.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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LOL...its NOT an art-form,

 

No, but it's not really about ability, but mentality and effort - deciding what is 'good enough' and what requires a higher level of effort. Particularly for someone in which achieving such precision is not a normal part of their work. That has to be learned and programmed. Even I suffer from it myself from time to time with my own clubs despite the fact that I know better.

 

And I completely agree with all the rest and still enjoy reading many of your posts. I certainly wasn't trying to discourage, just temper expectations a little bit and let him know the set might not vary as much as the results might indicate.

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Even with swing weight right on the dot may or may not be optimal.

As long as the measured swing weight is within one point of each other without progression in the set then, it'l be good. Unless a golfer is very particular about what he/she wants in the set.

I also found the leaderboard swing weight calculation is very handy without the swing weight scale, However, I understand some of us could not find the balance point and mark it properly. It's great when I went to help golfers at their location without my own tools.

 

The shorter irons supposed to have more swing weight value than the mid and the long irons, but a D5 value is quite heavy. How does it feel and is the O.P, getting the ball trajectory and distance he want from the PW with D5 swing weight ?

I'm assuming the 4-9 irons were using the same value for tip weight except for the 5 iron. It'll be some effort to trim the brass tip weight in the 4 iron, best to get a different tip weight for the 4 iron (Could also use home made tip weight for the 4 iron.)

Always , dry fit for the swing weight for the obvious reason. It is also a good idea to skip the ferrule when fine tuning the first iron to be used on the range using it later as the baseline for building the rest of the set.

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I'm a tinkerer and I end up being a DIY expert in ALL my hobbies, so this is all good info as lord knows I'll be building my own clubs forever now and double-checking any sets I buy.

 

Thanks guys!

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Calculating swingweight based on balance point and total weight is absolutely accurate from a theoretical standpoint, but executing the process, particularly as related to balance point measurement, can add a lot of error. I went through the process in creating a "master club," used to check my various swingweight scales, and it took a lot of time and use of a calibrated ruler from where I work before the exact balance point measurement could be properly determined. Using a tape measure and a cheap digital gram scale will add error that could easily exceed two swingweight points or even more. That's why it's best to get a swingweight scale and be done with it. Your build consistency will be much better and the build process will be faster.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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I think we're missing an element of info. Do you have a Taper Tip (0.355) or Parallel Tip (0.370) hosel in your iron set?

 

The XP95 R-flex weighs 93 grams in Parallel and 98 grams in Taper. The Modus 105 in S-flex weighs 106.5 grams for both Parallel and Taper.

 

When it comes to swingweighting, a 9-gram increase in shaft weight will increase the swingweight by 1 point. So, if you got all the shafts trimmed to length just right, and added the weights, the irons would be + 1 swingweight. Most people can't tell the difference.

What's In The Bag (As of April 2023, post-MAX change + new putter)

 

Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

Ball: 1. Srixon Q-Star Tour / 2. Calla SuperHot (Orange preferred)  ||  Bag: Sun Mountain Three 5 stand bag

    * MD4 54°/10 S-Grind replaced MD3 54°/12 W-Grind.

     Ψ  Backups:

  • Ping Sigma G Tyne (face-balanced) + Evnroll Gravity Grip |
  • Slotline Inertial SL-583F w/ SuperStroke 2.MidSlim (50 gr. weight removed) |
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      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #4
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Brandt Snedeker - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Max Greyserman - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Eric Cole - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Carl Yuan - WITb - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Russell Henley - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Justin Sun - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alex Noren - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Shane Lowry - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Taylor Montgomery - WITB - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jake Knapp (KnappTime_ltd) - WITB - - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Super Stoke Pistol Lock 1.0 & 2.0 grips - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      LA Golf new insert putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Garsen Quad Tour 15 grip - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      New Swag covers - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Jacob Bridgeman's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Bud Cauley's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Ryo Hisatsune's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Chris Kirk - new black Callaway Apex CB irons and a few Odyssey putters - 2024 Cognizant Classic
      Alejandro Tosti's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Cognizant Classic
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 2 replies
    • 2024 Genesis Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #1
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #2
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #3
      2024 Genesis Invitational - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Rory McIlroy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Sepp Straka - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Patrick Rodgers - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Brendon Todd - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Denny McCarthy - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Corey Conners - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Chase Johnson - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tommy Fleetwood - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Matt Fitzpatrick - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Si Woo Kim - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Viktor Hovland - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Wyndham Clark - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Cam Davis - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Nick Taylor - WITB - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Ben Baller WITB update (New putter, driver, hybrid and shafts) – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      New Vortex Golf rangefinder - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Fujikura Ventus shaft - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods & TaylorMade "Sun Day Red" apparel launch event, product photos – 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods Sun Day Red golf shoes - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Aretera shafts - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      New Toulon putters - 2024 Genesis Invitational
      Tiger Woods' new white "Sun Day Red" golf shoe prototypes – 2024 Genesis Invitational
       
       
       
       
       
      • 22 replies
    • 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put and questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open - Monday #1
      2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open - Monday #2
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Ben Taylor - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Garrick Higgo - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Billy Horschel - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Justin Lower - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Lanto Griffin - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Bud Cauley - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Corbin Burnes (2021 NL Cy Young) - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Greyson Sigg - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Charley Hoffman - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Nico Echavarria - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Victor Perez - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Sami Valimaki - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Ryo Hisatsune - WITB - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
       
       
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Jake Knapp's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      New Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Tyler Duncan's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Greyson Sigg's custom Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Sunjae Im's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Ping's Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Vincent Whaley's custom Cameron - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Odyssey Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Super Stroke custom grips - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Cameron putters - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Zac Blair's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
      Bettinardi Waste Management putter covers - 2024 Waste Management Phoenix Open
       
       
       
       
       
       

       
      • 12 replies

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