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Paint fill on ping glide 2.0 black wedges


kermitm

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Hello everyone,

 

I recently purchased two ping glide 2.0 wedges and wanted to see if anyone has thoughts on how to do paint fill on the loft? The entire head is black so it is difficult telling one wedge from another so I want to put white or purple paint fill in the lofts. Since the head is black, I don’t think acetone will remove the black cole. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Whatever stripper you're going to use, test it on the sole since the finish is going to wear off there anyway through use. Second, maybe try a less harsh stripper like Citristrip first.

 

For paint, I like Testors enamel model paint. Others on here have use Testors or Tamiya acrylic paints as well.

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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IMO Tamiya is much easier to work with. Runs smoother and much simpler to clean up with Denatured alcohol.

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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IMO Tamiya is much easier to work with. Runs smoother and much simpler to clean up with Denatured alcohol.

 

The cleanup process is something I still struggle with, and need to do some experimenting to figure out what works best. When I tried acrylic paints it seemed like when cleaning acetone took way too much paint off (even with very little pressure). It also made colors run together when I was doing multiple colors in close areas.

 

With enamel the cleanup seems a bit easier because the paint cures so hard and is easier to avoid colors running together when wiping off with acetone.

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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........Do you have to use a stripper or can you just paint over the black numbers?

 

You don't have to, if your paint will cover and you have enough depth.

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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........Do you have to use a stripper or can you just paint over the black numbers?

 

You don't have to, if your paint will cover and you have enough depth.

 

FWIW it's worth, I haven't had great results doing this. It seems like the paint doesn't bond as well to the existing paint and tends to not be durable.

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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IMO Tamiya is much easier to work with. Runs smoother and much simpler to clean up with Denatured alcohol.

 

The cleanup process is something I still struggle with, and need to do some experimenting to figure out what works best. When I tried acrylic paints it seemed like when cleaning acetone took way too much paint off (even with very little pressure). It also made colors run together when I was doing multiple colors in close areas.

 

With enamel the cleanup seems a bit easier because the paint cures so hard and is easier to avoid colors running together when wiping off with acetone.

 

Which is why I like to use these, with a little bit of alcohol. I squeeze out the excess with a paper towel and gently wipe the surrounding area clean. I the pointed end works well for tight area, and I love the flat side of the round end to wipe over a fill.

 

 

 

Also OP, there are a bunch of paint fill threads

 

This one should have most of what you want to know. http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/430009-paint-fill-101/

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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........Do you have to use a stripper or can you just paint over the black numbers?

 

You don't have to, if your paint will cover and you have enough depth.

 

FWIW it's worth, I haven't had great results doing this. It seems like the paint doesn't bond as well to the existing paint and tends to not be durable.

That's always a possibility, but whats the worse that can happen, you end up striping out the paint and re-doing. If the OP is scared to strip I say give it a try.

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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........Do you have to use a stripper or can you just paint over the black numbers?

 

You don't have to, if your paint will cover and you have enough depth.

 

FWIW it's worth, I haven't had great results doing this. It seems like the paint doesn't bond as well to the existing paint and tends to not be durable.

That's always a possibility, but whats the worse that can happen, you end up striping out the paint and re-doing. If the OP is scared to strip I say give it a try.

 

Good perspective

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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IMO Tamiya is much easier to work with. Runs smoother and much simpler to clean up with Denatured alcohol.

 

The cleanup process is something I still struggle with, and need to do some experimenting to figure out what works best. When I tried acrylic paints it seemed like when cleaning acetone took way too much paint off (even with very little pressure). It also made colors run together when I was doing multiple colors in close areas.

 

With enamel the cleanup seems a bit easier because the paint cures so hard and is easier to avoid colors running together when wiping off with acetone.

 

Which is why I like to use these, with a little bit of alcohol. I squeeze out the excess with a paper towel and gently wipe the surrounding area clean. I the pointed end works well for tight area, and I love the flat side of the round end to wipe over a fill.

 

 

 

Also OP, there are a bunch of paint fill threads

 

This one should have most of what you want to know. http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/430009-paint-fill-101/

 

Do you just use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl)? Perhaps using acetone and/or acetone based nail polish remover are too harsh and make it too easy to take off too much paint.

 

I think it's a combination of things for me, I need to be a little more patient and do better to reduce overfilling and thus having less cleanup to do.

 

I've bought a few new supplies (lint free nail polish remover wipes, non-acetone nail polish remover and paint fill bottles with the small needles) and am going to make another attempt at doing my irons again. Hopefully better results this go round.

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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IMO Tamiya is much easier to work with. Runs smoother and much simpler to clean up with Denatured alcohol.

 

The cleanup process is something I still struggle with, and need to do some experimenting to figure out what works best. When I tried acrylic paints it seemed like when cleaning acetone took way too much paint off (even with very little pressure). It also made colors run together when I was doing multiple colors in close areas.

 

With enamel the cleanup seems a bit easier because the paint cures so hard and is easier to avoid colors running together when wiping off with acetone.

 

Which is why I like to use these, with a little bit of alcohol. I squeeze out the excess with a paper towel and gently wipe the surrounding area clean. I the pointed end works well for tight area, and I love the flat side of the round end to wipe over a fill.

 

 

 

Also OP, there are a bunch of paint fill threads

 

This one should have most of what you want to know. http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/430009-paint-fill-101/

 

Do you just use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl)? Perhaps using acetone and/or acetone based nail polish remover are too harsh and make it too easy to take off too much paint.

 

I think it's a combination of things for me, I need to be a little more patient and do better to reduce overfilling and thus having less cleanup to do.

 

I've bought a few new supplies (lint free nail polish remover wipes, non-acetone nail polish remover and paint fill bottles with the small needles) and am going to make another attempt at doing my irons again. Hopefully better results this go round.

Denatured. I use a lot of it for cleaning epoxy when re-shafting. So I have it handy. But it seems a lot suggest isopropyl.

Woods: Callaway Rogue ST Max LS 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / TM Stealth Plus+, 15*, MCA Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: PXG 0317 X Proto 3H & 4H, Ventus Blue 7S

Irons: Takomo IRON 101, 5-PW, Accra T90i S
Wedges: Cleveland CBX ZipCore  48* Accra T90i S, 53* & 58*, Accra T100i S
Putter: Evnroll ER 1.2, Tour KBS GPS, 33",
 SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 Nike Air Hybrid 2 / Clicgear 4.0 / Alphard Club Booster V2 / V2 Swivel Kit
Accessories: Arccos 360 / Garmin G80 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

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Whatever you choose to strip the existing paint fill, try a small amount on the sole of the club first. That's a good way to test if it does anything to the black finish and since the finish on the sole will get worn off by use anyway you're not really hurting anything. Maybe start with something like citristrip first to see if that works.

 

For paint, I like Testors enamel model paint. Others like to use acrylic paint (Testors and Tamiya).

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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Whatever stripper you're going to use, test it on the sole since the finish is going to wear off there anyway through use. Second, maybe try a less harsh stripper like Citristrip first.

 

For paint, I like Testors enamel model paint. Others on here have use Testors or Tamiya acrylic paints as well.

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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Whatever you intend to use for stripping the existing paint, I would probably try rubbing a small amount on the sole and see what happens. The finish on the sole is going to wear way with use anyway so that's the best place to test. If you're worried, maybe start with a less harsh stripper like citristrip first.

 

For paint, I've had good luck with Testors enamel model paint. Others use the Tamiya acrylic paints.

----> See my current WITB
Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9°, Fujikura VENTUS Red 6 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 15° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Callaway Epic Flash Sub Zero 18° Tensei AV Blue 75 X
Mizuno MP-18 MMC 3 Fli-Hi | 4-PW, Project X LZ 6.5
Mizuno T7 52-09 | 58-12
TaylorMade TP Mullen
 

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  • 7 months later...

nice idea - i think paint fill on black wedges looks better imo.

Ping - G425 max dr, w/alta cb slate 

Ping - G425 max 5 wd & hy, w/alta cb red

Srixon - ZX MKii Utility, 4ut, w/UST recoil  

Srixon - ZX5 MKii 5i & ZX7 MKii 6-PW, w/SG s300

Titleist - Vokey SM9, 52.12°F, 56.12°D, 60.12°D w/DG s200

Odyssey - 1) Toulon Las Vegas DB 2) AI-One Double Wide

Bridgestone - Tour B XS /  Srixon - Z Star 🔷

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