Best Distance Irons for seniors

124

Comments

  • rmgatlrmgatl Members Posts: 206 ✭✭
    I hit the srixon 585s today and like them. I hit them further, exactly the amount expected based on stronger lofts. The Cleveland demos were right next to Srixon so I hit the CBX irons and liked them - more forgiving but not an absurd amount of offset and I was ok with the look. Senior folks like us should not overlook CBX irons and they're on ebay for a bargain.



    I watched Crossfield's review of CBX and he liked them. For comparison I pulled up Crossfield's i200 review and was amused that he carries his stock non power spec 26* i200 5i the same distance from the fairway I do (175ish) and he's a lot younger lol. So rather than buy new irons to get a 23* low spin 5i that I can hit 190 like the old days, I could instead just pull my 23* adams hybrid and be happy with what I've got:-) However my next set will be regular flex and maybe 95g v 110g. Time marches on.
  • Rich DouglasRich Douglas Members Posts: 324 ✭✭
    The best distance iron for seniors? One more club than you think.



    Irons should not be distance-oriented. You should be much more interested in things like distance gaps, proper fit, appropriate bound angles, forgiveness, grip size, shaft flex, and just about anything BUT distance.



    You want your 6-iron to go 10 more yards? Easy. Hit the 5.
    Driver: Titleist 917 D3 (Aldila Rogue MAX 65)
    2W: TM Mini Driver
    3H: Ping G410 (19 degrees)
    Irons: Wishon Sterling Single Length 4I-LW
    Putter: Bloodline (mallet)
    Ball: Callaway Chrome Soft
  • torbilltorbill Members Posts: 286 ✭✭


    The best distance iron for seniors? One more club than you think.



    Irons should not be distance-oriented. You should be much more interested in things like distance gaps, proper fit, appropriate bound angles, forgiveness, grip size, shaft flex, and just about anything BUT distance.



    You want your 6-iron to go 10 more yards? Easy. Hit the 5.




    Not in my world. I changed from Ping iBlades to i500 and the difference in distance is 10+ yards, and they fly way higher, and there is no question about it - these clubs are amazing!. It is easier for me to score when I am hitting a hard 8-iron or a 7-iron approach shot that stops on the green than a 6-iron that rolls out or misses the green altogether. No comparison. I love what the i500 has done for my game. Why should I have to make accommodations to my age when there is legal equipment that keeps me where I have always been?
  • Mikey5eMikey5e Members Posts: 728 ✭✭
    Everybody wants a magic pill for the difficult game of golf. The closest thing would be a hybrid.
  • Rich DouglasRich Douglas Members Posts: 324 ✭✭
    torbill wrote:



    The best distance iron for seniors? One more club than you think.



    Irons should not be distance-oriented. You should be much more interested in things like distance gaps, proper fit, appropriate bound angles, forgiveness, grip size, shaft flex, and just about anything BUT distance.



    You want your 6-iron to go 10 more yards? Easy. Hit the 5.




    Not in my world. I changed from Ping iBlades to i500 and the difference in distance is 10+ yards, and they fly way higher, and there is no question about it - these clubs are amazing!. It is easier for me to score when I am hitting a hard 8-iron or a 7-iron approach shot that stops on the green than a 6-iron that rolls out or misses the green altogether. No comparison. I love what the i500 has done for my game. Why should I have to make accommodations to my age when there is legal equipment that keeps me where I have always been?




    If you played single-length irons, the difference in hitting the two clubs would be nil. You'd just pull the right club for the distance and make the same swing.



    Yes, going from a blade to a game-improvement iron will add distance. The question is why would someone who needs that distance be playing a blade in the first place? Glad you found irons that better suit you; I'm sure you're having a lot more fun with them!
    Driver: Titleist 917 D3 (Aldila Rogue MAX 65)
    2W: TM Mini Driver
    3H: Ping G410 (19 degrees)
    Irons: Wishon Sterling Single Length 4I-LW
    Putter: Bloodline (mallet)
    Ball: Callaway Chrome Soft
  • rmgatlrmgatl Members Posts: 206 ✭✭
    I just picked up 4 & 5 Ping Crossovers (2016 black color), great condition, tour 90 stiff, for $80 each. Hit them on the range yesterday, played them today and they were outstanding, nice launch and gaps on the long end, blend more seamlessly with irons vs hybrids (which I liked ok). The tour 90s go well with my recoil 110s.



    I like playing something a little jacked up on long irons (only) where I need the help, vs a whole set of SGIs with a 43* wedge.



    My driver and 3/5 woods are all ping tour 75 regulars. I'll probably eventually reshaft the Crossovers with regular tour 90s and trade for something similar to my i200s but with regular shafts and 6-UW only. Although truth is the recoil 110 stiff are probably fine...good shock absorption and I'm more sensitive to weight than flex.



    Love these crossovers although we're still in honeymoon phase.
  • youraway2youraway2 Just Old Sticks Members Posts: 1,402 ✭✭
    I'm 74, been playing TM 2008 Tour Burner R-flex, graphite shafted irons since 2008, loved them. The last year I felt I was starting to lose distance and many less than solid strikes. I was having trouble getting 140 out of a six-iron. Of course it was my swing and tempo, but I decided a new set of irons was what I needed. I've been down this road before only to go back to the TM's, more than once. This time I purchased a set of PXG irons with Aerotech steel fiber shafts, R flex. Loved them, but staring hitting them frequently near the toe. So, decided to pull the trigger on a set of CF-16's with 760 ES Recoil shafts and now I'm striking the ball better than ever. My lost distance has returned and the feeling at compact, awesome. So, even though CF-16's are not supposed to be forgiving, but for me, they are and my 6-iron easily obtains 150-60 yards.



    I tried my 2008 TM's again, and wouldn't ever consider playing them. The PXG's are really nice, but have been assigned as a back-up set, to play once in a while. The CF-16's are staying in the bag for now, at least until I try the CF-19's.



    Bottom line, you must like the look, like the feel, and like the shaft. I do believe Recoil shafts are hard to beat, especially for a senior like me.
    [font=comic sans ms,cursive]Ping G-400 Max, 10.5, Xtorsion[/font]
    PXG, 15-degree, ACCRA
    PXG, 19-degree hybrid, ACCRA
    Cobra DWS Utility 19-degree
    CF-16, 4-PW, UST Recoil
    0311 PXG, 5-AW, i70 Areotech Steel-fiber
    SW, 56 PXG
    Ping Nickel Anser II
  • platgofplatgof platgof ClubWRX Posts: 1,437 ClubWRX
    The CF 16's are the real deal, amazing clubs, and now the CF 19's are coming real soon. I am going to get used to my CF 16's before moving to something else, they feel so awesome when struck.
    GBB Fusion HT 13.5
    F9 5-6 WD
    F9 7-8 WD
    OS 5 & 6 Hybrid
    P790 5-PW
    Glide AW, SW, LW
    TM Spider Pro Red C/S
    B330RX
  • Double GeeDouble Gee Members Posts: 1,081 ✭✭
    Bill Guy wrote:


    Really interesting thread with thanks to contributors as I will hit 70 in next few months. I thought I would add my experience. Two years ago I decided to treat myself to new irons. I was fitted into a Mizuno JPX900 forged iron set with graphite Recoil 95 F2 (stiff) shafts. Went for GW-4 iron and delighted with them. They are beautifully soft and deadly accurate when I put a decent swing on them. I would highly recommend anyone try the recoil shafts and in several flexes. My observations have been that the irons are 1 club stronger/longer than my old set and I am 1 club shorter (7 iron SS about 65 and hit about 145y) compared to what I used be which is about a 2 club difference. I have no option but to accept that. So my 6 iron was really a 5 iron, the 5 was a 4 iron and the 4 really a three iron. I found I just could not consistently get up enough speed to play the 4 iron properly and so replaced it with a Titleist 21 hybrid. While the hybrid is much easier to hit it is not as accurate as the iron when well hit. I am also going to look at maybe the Mizuno hot metal irons with softer F3 shaft and bigger head for the 6 and 5 to help get them up in the air quicker. So if doing it again from scratch I would go with a mixed set and 3 different club types GW-7 iron, 6/5 iron and 4 hybrid plus 3/5 woods and driver. While reasonably long in my age group it can be very frustrating, as mentioned earlier, to see younger guys bomb their drives past you and take 2/3 clubs less into the green but that's the way it is. However I do take great pleasure in a tidy game around the green, when working, and when taking the money at the end every so often.




    F2 is not stiff but soft regular aka senior.
  • larryd3larryd3 Members Posts: 579 ✭✭


    The best distance iron for seniors? One more club than you think.



    Irons should not be distance-oriented. You should be much more interested in things like distance gaps, proper fit, appropriate bound angles, forgiveness, grip size, shaft flex, and just about anything BUT distance.



    You want your 6-iron to go 10 more yards? Easy. Hit the 5.




    6 iron is easier to hit consistently than a 5 iron. I'll take the easier to hit all other things considered.
    TM M4
    Epic 15*
    816 H1 19*
    816 H1 24*
    PXG 0311 5-pw
    50* SM7 F
    54* SM6 M
    58* SM7 S
    PXG Operator H
  • jjfcpajjfcpa Members Posts: 378 ✭✭
    I'm currently in NV so I had a chance to play 9 holes yesterday. Granted, there is some rust from not playing for a couple months but this is how my round goes ....



    The shot of the day was on a 375 yard par 4 with a slight dog leg to the right. Driver was about 200 yards which left me 175 to the hole. It was slightly up hill so I pulled my 3w (Rogue) and made really good contact and the ball ended up 15 feet from the hole. Left the first putt a foot from the hole and drained the 2nd putt with the flagstick in (my preference now that it's legal).



    I could live with that all day long, but most of the time, I end up in 40 - 50 yards short of the green because I can't reach the green in two. If it's over 390 yards long, I have to play for a great wedge shot to get me to a distance from the hole that might allow me to save par. Consequently, my wedge play is pretty good.



    I'd like to get on the green in regulation, but I only drive about 200 yards and the 2nd longest club in my bag is the 3w and I can only hit it about 185-190.



    I have pretty good luck with par 5's and 3's, but long par 4's kill me. Any solutions you see for this?
  • Rich DouglasRich Douglas Members Posts: 324 ✭✭
    jjfcpa wrote:


    I'm currently in NV so I had a chance to play 9 holes yesterday. Granted, there is some rust from not playing for a couple months but this is how my round goes ....



    The shot of the day was on a 375 yard par 4 with a slight dog leg to the right. Driver was about 200 yards which left me 175 to the hole. It was slightly up hill so I pulled my 3w (Rogue) and made really good contact and the ball ended up 15 feet from the hole. Left the first putt a foot from the hole and drained the 2nd putt with the flagstick in (my preference now that it's legal).



    I could live with that all day long, but most of the time, I end up in 40 - 50 yards short of the green because I can't reach the green in two. If it's over 390 yards long, I have to play for a great wedge shot to get me to a distance from the hole that might allow me to save par. Consequently, my wedge play is pretty good.



    I'd like to get on the green in regulation, but I only drive about 200 yards and the 2nd longest club in my bag is the 3w and I can only hit it about 185-190.



    I have pretty good luck with par 5's and 3's, but long par 4's kill me. Any solutions you see for this?




    Work on your short game. Or play from more-forward tees. Or play other courses. Or take some lessons to improve your distance. Or see a club fitter.



    But don't expect to buy a solution off the rack.
    Driver: Titleist 917 D3 (Aldila Rogue MAX 65)
    2W: TM Mini Driver
    3H: Ping G410 (19 degrees)
    Irons: Wishon Sterling Single Length 4I-LW
    Putter: Bloodline (mallet)
    Ball: Callaway Chrome Soft
  • platgofplatgof platgof ClubWRX Posts: 1,437 ClubWRX
    Your stuck jjfpca. Unless you move up a tee, it's gonna be tough. I gave up and play the Champion(senior) tees.
    GBB Fusion HT 13.5
    F9 5-6 WD
    F9 7-8 WD
    OS 5 & 6 Hybrid
    P790 5-PW
    Glide AW, SW, LW
    TM Spider Pro Red C/S
    B330RX
  • Bogey LondonBogey London Mr. Members Posts: 332 ✭✭
    Honma 3 star to 5 star is the best for seniors
    "There are three ways of going to ****: women, gambling, and trusting experts. Women are the most fun, gambling is the most exciting, but trusting experts is the most certain."
    (President De Gaulle)
    Driver - PRGR Super Egg Long-Spec 9.5* 
    Fairway wood - Honma TW737 13*
    Rescue - Honma TW 737 15* 
    Irons and Wedges - Itobori copper finish 4-P, 52, 56, 60; Yururi 52, 56, 60
    Putter - Itobori
  • SwingManSwingMan SwingMan Members Posts: 6,800
    edited Jan 11, 2019 12:24am #106


    PING G700

    XXIO

    Callaway Rogue



    These would be the top irons for distance that I see on a daily basis. Match the right shaft and specs for your game.




    Add



    Rogue X



    Mizuno JPX919 Hot Metal



    G700
    "My swing is so bad, I look like a caveman killing his lunch" - Lee Trevino

    Bag: Ping G400 Max/TPT Golf Series 17 ● Exotics EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd ● PXG 0317 4H/Tensei CK Pro Red 70 ● Mizuno 919F 5-GW/Accra i80 ● Ping Glide 2.0 Stealth 56ES, 60SS ●Evnroll ER8
  • CurtdrCurtdr Members Posts: 29 ✭✭
    If A-flex graphites or even R-flex graphites are too whippy for you... what about the Recoil 460 model in the F4 ("stiff")...? those are lightweight graphites and so the "stiff" won't be stiff like heavier graphites nor steel, will still load, and may provide that sense of control.



    For clubs, though, overall, shafts included... nothing beats a fitting. That said, the Callaway XR-OS are really solid, likewise Rogue X, maybe Rogue, or the Ping G700... perhaps TM M-4...?



    I ended up with RogueX, but that was after trying them against standard Rogues (which are really nice too) and G700s which are great and I thought would win, but the X won out. I'm not at all concerned about the so-called "jacked" lofts... I go by angle and yardage and got the whole set of irons from S (56 degree) to 4 (18)... I'm loving the S-56, G-51, A-46, P-41 combo, with the G (51) being particularly powerful for me, my favorite probably, for about 100 yards... The only "specialty" wedges I carry are a Cleveland SmartSole 58 and a SmartSole Chipper. One Rogue 3 hybrid, for those times when I just feel like hitting it instead of the 4 iron. Driver and putter. Simple bag. Works for me, but it matches my preferred aggressive irons playing style and mental needs too (simplicity... as I tend to overthink).
  • topsparktopspark Members Posts: 126 ✭✭
    Curtdr wrote:


    If A-flex graphites or even R-flex graphites are too whippy for you... what about the Recoil 460 model in the F4 ("stiff")...? those are lightweight graphites and so the "stiff" won't be stiff like heavier graphites nor steel, will still load, and may provide that sense of control.



    For clubs, though, overall, shafts included... nothing beats a fitting. That said, the Callaway XR-OS are really solid, likewise Rogue X, maybe Rogue, or the Ping G700... perhaps TM M-4...?



    I ended up with RogueX, but that was after trying them against standard Rogues (which are really nice too) and G700s which are great and I thought would win, but the X won out. I'm not at all concerned about the so-called "jacked" lofts... I go by angle and yardage and got the whole set of irons from S (56 degree) to 4 (18)... I'm loving the S-56, G-51, A-46, P-41 combo, with the G (51) being particularly powerful for me, my favorite probably, for about 100 yards... The only "specialty" wedges I carry are a Cleveland SmartSole 58 and a SmartSole Chipper. One Rogue 3 hybrid, for those times when I just feel like hitting it instead of the 4 iron. Driver and putter. Simple bag. Works for me, but it matches my preferred aggressive irons playing style and mental needs too (simplicity... as I tend to overthink).




    maltby ts2 should also be a consideration.

    I honestly had the worst round of my life, with these first up, but I was also trying some swing changes after seeing a pro.

    On the range though, before the lessons, the dispersion on length and width are the best I have ever hit.
  • BubbBubb Members Posts: 1,303 ✭✭
    Cobra F Max one length. I picked these up on a whim the other day and was so wowed that I bought them. They would have been about 93 on my top 100 list of irons to try.
  • I'm just stubborn, I guess, but I'm a 70 year old woman playing off a 4 hcp using Mizuno MP 5 irons, Miura 1957 wedges, a Ping 4 hybrid, Srixon 3 and 5 woods, and a Srixon Z765 driver, all with reg flex shafts. Sure, I don't hit it quite as far as I once did, despite being pretty fit, but I hit it straighter than ever and, as a woman, my game has always been more about finesse than power anyway. Seems to me that's why there are multiple tee options and 14 clubs in the bag.
  • 1Mordrid11Mordrid1 Members Posts: 577 ✭✭
    ALaB13 wrote:


    Unsure if this has been mentioned, flipped through the thread but did not see it pop up.



    Everyone gets so caught up on loft! and it is absolutely maddening!!



    Loft is only 1 piece of the puzzle. On page 2 someone came close when the mentioned the super deep/low CG. What you need to understand about modern distance irons is that they are not simply "jacking the lofts" as many have claimed.When OEM's design these types of clubs, they also re-position CG and tweak MOI (stability) in order to build an iron that still performs as an IRON and not as a fairway wood. People have referenced the Launcher HB's perfect example, YES it is a hollow body, and YES it is built with hybrid inspiration, however, they are still built to perform and play as an Iron. HOW did they do this? Long blade length and hollow head for forgiveness and ball speed AND a very low and deep CG for LAUNCH. Lofts aside, the #5 is still built to find a window optimized for distance - and lower launch is not the key to that.



    Look at what parameters dictate distance on driver. Higher Launch with Lower spin (dumbed down yes, but for simplicity's sake lets not get in to it)



    So, how does that translate to an iron when we are loft jacking? (Strengthening/Lower the loft) It rarely does when ONLY loft is accounted for.



    The modern distance iron has its pros and cons, and a "jacked loft" is in neither category, because alone it means nothing. HOWEVER, the stronger lofts and the higher launch designs are often coupled with LESS SPIN comparative to older generations/designs. So, Yes, the irons have stronger lofts, but the ball is typically launching as high, or higher than some "weaker" lofted irons in the same category, but along with less spin is providing added carry.



    Also on the second page someone recommends paying attention to height: this is 100% the best avenue coupled with a fitting/club analysis.



    As a fitter and club builder: height/carry are king when it comes to fitting irons for those seeking more distance, especially those who are on the waning end of swing speed.



    To circle around to recommendations: Cleveland HB, King OS, F Max SL, G700, the Bridgestone recommendations are also solid. and lastly, yes, the Rogue family of irons are also solid options - which of the family is the ideal depends on many factors.



    Lastly, since I also have not seen it mentioned, the SOLE type is also important for adding to distance potential of an iron. If the sole/bounce design of the iron does not mesh up with your strike pattern then the distance adding properties/designs of the irons may not be getting utilized the most efficiently.



    *exhales*




    Thank you for having the patience to explain this. These facts get ignored and bashed a lot on this site.



    Another fact that gets ignored is that the "same loft to same loft" distance comparison does not take into account that the shaft lengths are not equal. In theory, if you have 2 equally lofted clubs that go the same distance, but one shaft is shorter, then the shorter shafted iron should not only be more accurate, but if you were to lengthen that same iron's shaft then it would be longer than the first as well.



    Distance irons are not for everyone but they can help a lot of players. They do have proven technology that works for plenty of golfers.
    WITB

    Callaway Rogue driver w/ Oban Tour Limited 4 60g
    Callaway Rogue 4 wood w/ Oban Kiyoshi White 4 65g
    Nike Sasquatch Sumo #4 hybrid(cut down 1") w/ H Diamana s
    Srixon U65 20° Miyazaki Kaula 7 s
    Ping G700 5-UW AWT 2.0(1°flat, 2° weak)
    Callaway Mack Daddy PM Grind 19 54/ KBS Hi-Rev 2.0 115
    Callaway Mack Daddy PM Grind 19 60/KBS Hi-Rev 2.0 115
    Ping Sigma 2 Tyne (adjusted to 32")
    Snell MTB Black
  • SwitterSwitter Members Posts: 400 ✭✭
    After open heart surgery bought Callaway XR 16 Steelheads w Matrix graphite shafts. Prolly the longest, easiest most accurate irons I have ever played. FWIW
    Driver: Callaway V Series Adj. 10.5*
    Driver Shaft: Mitsubishi Rayon Bassara
    Irons: Callaway 2017 Steelhead XR Matrix Ozik F15 graphite 6I - AW
    Hybrids: Callaway 2017 Steelhead XR Matrix Ozik F15 graphite #3,#4,#5,#6
    Wedges: Titleist Vokey 56* & 60* TT DG S300
    Putter: Pro Gear PG100 C-Groove with Lamkin "Technique" Mid-sized Grip
    Grips: Chamois "Avon" Grips
    Ball: Srixon Q-star Tour
    Bag: Sun Mountain C130

    "Hope is not a solution"!
  • EBE-GOLFINEBE-GOLFIN Members Posts: 98 ✭✭
    If your on a search for a game improvement iron, you must give the 2019 Callaway Big Bertha (BB) a demo. It is large footprint but the smoke black color visually tones that down. By far gave me the best and most consistent numbers. I narrowed my final 3 game improvement irons down to --- Titleist 2018 AP1, Mizuno 919 Hot Metal & the surprise 2019 Callaway Big Bertha.

    The BB ball speed, smash factor, and distance were consistently the BEST. At 62 my swing speed with a 7 iron is 81 - 82 mph. BB was giving agv 164 carry. However I struggle with height & spin. Those # were 1700 - 1900 and 5500 - 6000 spin. So the roll out was less than desired.

    Even tho these are THE BIGGEST iron I have ever considered, they didn't look bad. They only had a demo 7 iron so couldn't see the footprint on scoring irons, PW etc. When checking for lie I usually am 2* flat. But the BB was not giving that reading on the lie tape. was showing standard lie. Think this may be because the club is so long heel to toe that it probably has toe drop on aggressive swing??? Will have to look at that again.

    NEVER thought I would consider a iron this size. Recommended giving it a demo. FOREEEE
  • LaymanMLaymanM Cincinnati, OHMembers Posts: 2,123 ✭✭
    G400 with graphite shafts
    PING G410 9* PX Evenflow Black 75 6.0
    PING G410 LST 3w PX Evenflow Black 85 6.0
    PING G410 5w PX Evenflow Black 85 6.0
    PING G410 4-PW AWT 2 0 stiff
    PING Stealth Glide 2.0 50ss/54ss/58ss
    PING Sigam G Tyne
  • GoStarsGoStars Members Posts: 447 ✭✭
    My father is 70. Probably uses a 6H from 150. He really likes his Ping G700 set with Alta graphite shafts. They have a very springy hot face and also help get height.
  • I'm 74 and I have a set of Ping I 500's and a set of Callaway Rogue Pro's. They are both very easy to hit and the distance is great. The

    7 iron in both sets is 160 yds. I do think however that the 4 iron in the Pings is easier to hit than the Callaway 4. My handicap has increased

    to 9 with age but the new irons really help.



    fraser819
  • LaymanMLaymanM Cincinnati, OHMembers Posts: 2,123 ✭✭
    fraser819 wrote:


    I'm 74 and I have a set of Ping I 500's and a set of Callaway Rogue Pro's. They are both very easy to hit and the distance is great. The

    7 iron in both sets is 160 yds. I do think however that the 4 iron in the Pings is easier to hit than the Callaway 4. My handicap has increased

    to 9 with age but the new irons really help.



    fraser819




    You still got some serious distance... congrats!
    PING G410 9* PX Evenflow Black 75 6.0
    PING G410 LST 3w PX Evenflow Black 85 6.0
    PING G410 5w PX Evenflow Black 85 6.0
    PING G410 4-PW AWT 2 0 stiff
    PING Stealth Glide 2.0 50ss/54ss/58ss
    PING Sigam G Tyne
  • Dr. HackDr. Hack Members Posts: 51 ✭✭
    edited Jan 15, 2019 1:56am #118
    Great thread. Fun to read the whole mix of ideas and advice.



    IMHO, modern course design simply demands accurate iron gapping from 180-100 yards. Pulling out a 5 iron (or hybrid) for a 140 yard approach is simply no good. And, having a little reserve in your irons is also important for consistent striking...most tour pro's are actually swinging at 80-90%. Not all gapping issues are solved by the use of hybrids. Hybrids are great for getting the ball up in the air for people who struggle to do so with long-irons, but if distance is the problem and not just loft, even if you go down to 7H, you'll still have a gapping issue with the 8 iron.



    I really learned this first hand with my new iBlades. I'm only 33 years old and drive about 290 yards with 110 mph SS, so distance has not been an issue for me. I liked the look and feel of the iBlades so I bought them, but they are totally incompatible with game-play for me. My 7 iron goes 140-150 yards (and it's not a shaft issue). There's just a limit to the amount of shots you can produce with 6 and 7 irons around the green. I'm also not a consistent enough striker to lose the type of yardage I lose with these on mishits, I've learned, although that's my problem. It has become a vicious circle of slowing down to get more precise contact but losing yardage even more when I inevitably mishit. The whole thing has really made me appreciate the irons distance issue from a new perspective.



    Anyway, I am going back to my trusty AP1's and may try out some Srixons when the club bug bites me image/dntknw.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':dntknw:' />
  • rxk9fanrxk9fan MidwestMembers Posts: 762 ✭✭
    penmorgan wrote:


    I'm just stubborn, I guess, but I'm a 70 year old woman playing off a 4 hcp using Mizuno MP 5 irons, Miura 1957 wedges, a Ping 4 hybrid, Srixon 3 and 5 woods, and a Srixon Z765 driver, all with reg flex shafts. Sure, I don't hit it quite as far as I once did, despite being pretty fit, but I hit it straighter than ever and, as a woman, my game has always been more about finesse than power anyway. Seems to me that's why there are multiple tee options and 14 clubs in the bag.




    Your post will probably not get the attention it deserves but I think you make a super important point that will be relative as long as golf is played. You reference that your game "has always been more about finesse than power anyway." This is SO important to understand because:

    1. Look at you HC - way better than the majority

    2. You are at that level because you understand that for your game, finesse is more important than power



    My point is that as golfers age, it does not matter how good you were. It does not matter how far you use to hit it. You and everyone else have to play the game you bring to the course today. And that means eventually, finesse will be more important for you than power. There is nothing wrong with chasing the equipment that stretches your length, but if you play long enough your GIR will drop. That does not mean you have to quit making pars. It does mean you will likely need to improve the parts of your game that you can...the one between your ears and the one from 50 yards to the hole.



    Yes, get the equipment that will help. But regardless of what you play eventually you are not getting on a 400 yard par 4 in two. I am not to that point yet but plan to get there and I am already thinking about that 400 yard hole. I pull out my driver and hit it 172 down the pipe and into the short grass. I now pull out my hybrid and hit is 147 leaving me the perfect angle to the pin and 81 yards to the hole. I then hit my 9 iron 79 yards and follow that with a 6 foot putt into the bottom of the cup for PAR. While this is going on, my nephew whacks his Driver 278 into the left tree line. He goes for the green, catching a limb where his ball drops straight down. He punches out to in front of the green where he lies 3. He chunks his 4th to barely get on the fringe and then 2 putts for a 6.



    Finesse and using your head can greatly reduce how long it takes shorter hitters to get it in the hole....oh, and probably longer hitters too :-)
    Mizuno 190ST with Tensei Blue Stiff
    Taylormade M4 tour 3 wood with stiff Oban Kiyoshi Tour Limited
    Cobra Baffler 6 with UST Elements Stiff
    Srixon U65 4i with SteelFiber R
    Srixon Z765 with SteelFiber R shafts
    or
    Cobra Black Forged Tec 4i - AW with Recoil F4 shafts
    Vokey 58, 54, 50
    Taylormade Spider X

    I am thinking about playing golf next year instead of HOing clubs!  
    Oh, changed my mind and still HOing ....but HC finally moving in the right direction.
    Definitions: HOing is changing any spot in your bag 3 or more times in a year
                       Optimizing is changing any/every spot in your bag up to twice a year :-)
  • jjfcpajjfcpa Members Posts: 378 ✭✭
    rxk9fan wrote:

    penmorgan wrote:


    I'm just stubborn, I guess, but I'm a 70 year old woman playing off a 4 hcp using Mizuno MP 5 irons, Miura 1957 wedges, a Ping 4 hybrid, Srixon 3 and 5 woods, and a Srixon Z765 driver, all with reg flex shafts. Sure, I don't hit it quite as far as I once did, despite being pretty fit, but I hit it straighter than ever and, as a woman, my game has always been more about finesse than power anyway. Seems to me that's why there are multiple tee options and 14 clubs in the bag.




    Your post will probably not get the attention it deserves but I think you make a super important point that will be relative as long as golf is played. You reference that your game "has always been more about finesse than power anyway." This is SO important to understand because:

    1. Look at you HC - way better than the majority

    2. You are at that level because you understand that for your game, finesse is more important than power



    My point is that as golfers age, it does not matter how good you were. It does not matter how far you use to hit it. You and everyone else have to play the game you bring to the course today. And that means eventually, finesse will be more important for you than power. There is nothing wrong with chasing the equipment that stretches your length, but if you play long enough your GIR will drop. That does not mean you have to quit making pars. It does mean you will likely need to improve the parts of your game that you can...the one between your ears and the one from 50 yards to the hole.



    Yes, get the equipment that will help. But regardless of what you play eventually you are not getting on a 400 yard par 4 in two. I am not to that point yet but plan to get there and I am already thinking about that 400 yard hole. I pull out my driver and hit it 172 down the pipe and into the short grass. I now pull out my hybrid and hit is 147 leaving me the perfect angle to the pin and 81 yards to the hole. I then hit my 9 iron 79 yards and follow that with a 6 foot putt into the bottom of the cup for PAR. While this is going on, my nephew whacks his Driver 278 into the left tree line. He goes for the green, catching a limb where his ball drops straight down. He punches out to in front of the green where he lies 3. He chunks his 4th to barely get on the fringe and then 2 putts for a 6.



    Finesse and using your head can greatly reduce how long it takes shorter hitters to get it in the hole....oh, and probably longer hitters too :-)




    Whoa, you just described my game. GIR's are rare when the holes get near the 400 yard mark on Par 4's. I have to rely on making a good chip to the green within a hundred hards (normally around 50 or so) and then 1-putt for par. My short game is very good and getting better and this has enabled me to get salvage par's on those long par 4's. I don't have a lot of trouble with par 5's or 3's.



    At my age and limited physical abilities, playing smart is much better than playing with power and suffering the consequences.
  • disco111disco111 Members Posts: 989 ✭✭
    OK, there's 2 glaring holes in the previous post(s). 1) If as a senior, your playing par 4's that are 400 or close to that, your playing the wrong tees and 2) Relying on finesse with an aged body is a recipe for giving the game up. Sure, everybody will enter into the distance lose game at some future time and space, but with the way equipment has advanced, you can certainly get on the plus side of the equation. Which would you rather have, a 40-60 yd shot into the green or a 10-15 pitch and run onto the green. Granted, both could fall under the finesse mantra, but logic should dictate one should be easier than the other. Now that's looking at that 400 yd par 4, but playing the right tee, hey your on in 2 and it's because of playing where you should be playing from and advanced equipment. I'm fully and sadly aware at age 75, that it ain't going out there like when I was 30, regardless of any equipment, but using what's become available to help has made the game fun again and put a little spring back in my step. So play the correct tees, let equipment help you (because it can), find the right ball for your swing speed.
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