How to intentionally degrade a balls performance but keep it cosmetically intact?

Matadorb32Matadorb32 Members Posts: 48 ✭✭
I know this is a weird topic, but I thought it would be a funny prank to play on one of my regular playing partners. I will absolutely tell him after the fact but I thought it would be hilarious to hand him a Pro V1 and see him rip a drive for it to fall out of the sky after ~100 yds, or take a wild curve left/right. Does anyone know what would be the best way to purposely degrade a golf ball?



My initial plan is to freeze/thaw a ball a number of times. Maybe soak it in water for a few weeks so it gets waterlogged?



Any other ideas?

Comments

  • MitchellGolfingMitchellGolfing Members Posts: 1,306 ✭✭
    I’m not sure what you could do, but something that kept the exterior intact but halfway melted the core would draw some wierd results
    Callaway Xr 9* set to 11*, Project X 6.0
    Adams Tightlies 16*,Stock stiff
    Wilson Reflex 4-G Uniflex stock steel
    Cleveland RTX 588 2.0 54/58* Wedge flex
    Ping Anser 33” Superstroke 3.0
  • augustgolfaugustgolf Golf with dignity Coastal NCMembers Posts: 3,898 ✭✭
    Styx had a song for this exact situation:



    Too Much Time On My Hands
    Pings from the beginning

    OGA member 1415
    or is it 1514...
    I don't remember exactly
  • AbelvisAbelvis Members Posts: 34 ✭✭
    It's pretty simple; you don't! ;-)
    [font=Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif]Driver: taylormade.png RBZ TP
    Woods: taylormade.png RBZ stage 2 TP Wood (15 degree)
    Hybrid: taylormade.png RBZ 4 (22 degree)
    Irons: titleist.png 718 AP 1 (5- 53 degree)
    Wedges: cleveland.png 56 & 60 Degree
    Putter: odyssey.png Versa #7
    Ball: Pearl Pure Pro
    [/font]

    [font=Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif]gamegolf.png[/font]
  • pallmallpallmall Members Posts: 10
    edited Dec 20, 2018 #5
    It may be difficult to do, but it is possible: break or make some cracks to a ProV's inner part, while the soft cover does not break. It may be time consuming, because a lot of times, when a core breaks, cover also cracks. You may need a air cannon to do so.
  • ValtielValtiel Konica-Minolta Bizhub Members Posts: 1,882 ✭✭
    No idea how safe this would be, but you could pierce the cover with a fine syringe and inject something caustic/corrosive into the core to create either a void or something funky anyway.
    Taylormade M1 430 8.5* Tensei Pro Orange V2 70TX || Titleist 915D3 8.5* Diamana Kai'li 80x
    Callaway XHot 3Deep Pro 14.5* Fujikura Motore VC 8.3 Tour Spec X || Nike SQ2 13* Diamana Blueboard 83x
    Nike Tour Issue SQ2 17* Diamana Blueboard 103x || SQ2 15* Diamana Blueboard 93x
    PING Anser 20* Aldila Rogue Black 110MSI 105h Tour-X || Taylormade V-Steel 21* Project X Rifle Satin 6.5
    Mizuno MP-H4 3i 21* Project X PXi 7.0
    Mizuno MP-H4 4i 24* Project X PXi 7.0
    Mizuno MP-59 4i-PW 24*- 48* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
    Vokey Mild Raw 8620 54* Brunswick Precision Rifle FCM 7.0
    Vokey  SM6 58* Oil Can Low Bounce K-Grind Brunswick Precision FCM 7.3 SSx1
    Vokey Special 62* Black Oxide V-Grind Brunswick Precision FCM 7.3 SSx2
    Scotty Cameron Santa Fe Bullseye shaft

    WITB Thread
  • LlortamaiseyLlortamaisey Members Posts: 5,897 ✭✭
    Have my pappy hit it. You will get all of the desired ball flight results.
  • spartan6910spartan6910 Go Green, Go White! San DiegoMembers Posts: 380 ✭✭
    edited Dec 20, 2018 #8
    Long-exposure water bath, perhaps?



    edit: missed that comment in your OP. My bad. That's the best I can think of.
    TaylorMade 2016 M1 460 8.5* - Fujikura Speeder 661 TX
    Cobra King LTD 13* - Aldila Rogue X
    TaylorMade SLDR 2h 19* - Fujikura Pro 83h X
    Mizuno T-Zoid Comp-EZ 2i - S300
    Callaway Apex CF16 5-P - stock steel XP95
    Callaway Mack Daddy Forged 51*
    Callaway Mack Daddy 3 58*
    Callaway Mack Daddy PM Grind 64*
    Bettinardi Queen B #8
    TaylorMade TP5


    Born in the USA, Made in Detroit, Grinding in San Diego[/size]
  • MudguardMudguard Members Posts: 1,265 ✭✭
    Put it in a vice a few times? Might get away with the cover not cracking.
  • elwhippyelwhippy Members Posts: 3,114 ✭✭
    You really need to get out more.
  • bigmoneypbigmoneyp MichiganMembers Posts: 3,273 ✭✭
    Buy some of those repainted ProV's.... who knows whats underneath the paintjob?
  • Dustin_JDustin_J St. Louis, MOMembers Posts: 154 ✭✭
    edited Dec 20, 2018 #12
    You might try:

    - Freeze overnight

    - Drop it in hot tap water for a minute or so until the cover softens (core will still be frozen)

    - Crank it in a vise with soft/padded/flat jaws



    I bet you could get the core to crack that way. If you have a few shag-bag quality ProVs, you could do some testing and report back.



    FWIW, I was bored and didn't want to work so I just tried drilling a hole in a ball that was cut in half and soaking it with Acetone (dissolves plastic) - not much happening. It was a Vice Pro Soft, not a ProV1, if that makes a difference.
  • JustsomeguyJustsomeguy Members Posts: 995 ✭✭
    I'd like to follow this bc I'll bet the results are that it's difficult to do without a time intensive undertaking.
    Titleist 915D3 9.5*, Diamana S+ Blue 60, R, @11*
    Titleist 915F 15* Diamana S+ Blue 70, R
    Titleist 915H 20* Diamana S+ Blue 70, R
    Titleist 716 AP1 4-W52, Kuro Kage Tini 65, S
    Cleveland CBX, 56*/12, Rotex Graphite Wedge Flex
    Cleveland Smart Square Blade
  • FadeFade Members Posts: 1,144 ✭✭
    Microwave for 3-4 minutes. Let stand for 1 minute before use.
  • indianalawnguyindianalawnguy Members Posts: 434 ✭✭
    Fade wrote:


    Microwave for 3-4 minutes. Let stand for 1 minute before use.






    Bahhahaha!!!
  • jslane57jslane57 Members Posts: 3,929 ✭✭
    Drill it out. Use a small drill bit and then just mash around inside the ball. Fill it with caulk or something that will also cover up the hole.
  • bsawhneybsawhney Members Posts: 323 ✭✭
    jslane57 wrote:


    Drill it out. Use a small drill bit and then just mash around inside the ball. Fill it with caulk or something that will also cover up the hole.




    I heard this one works. Drill a small hole, fill it with lead and then paint it back, will cause some curve balls that will be hard to understand.
  • Matadorb32Matadorb32 Members Posts: 48 ✭✭
    Ok, so I actually did try the drilling method. I clamped a Pro-V1x into a vice and drilled about half way down into the ball and mashed around a bit. I took a few of these balls to the range and surprisingly, it didn't have much of an effect. I was really expecting the ball to wildly slice or hook but if anything it was maybe only 15 yards offline.



    Currently, I have a batch of balls that I have frozen/thawed about 10 times and they are now sitting in a water bath. I'll keep them soaking for another week or so and then I'll dry them out and repeat.
  • JustsomeguyJustsomeguy Members Posts: 995 ✭✭
    I love winter golf boredom. Totally staying tuned to see the results.
    Titleist 915D3 9.5*, Diamana S+ Blue 60, R, @11*
    Titleist 915F 15* Diamana S+ Blue 70, R
    Titleist 915H 20* Diamana S+ Blue 70, R
    Titleist 716 AP1 4-W52, Kuro Kage Tini 65, S
    Cleveland CBX, 56*/12, Rotex Graphite Wedge Flex
    Cleveland Smart Square Blade
  • sevenfouratesevenfourate Devotee of OCD ENGLAND.Members Posts: 1,882 ✭✭
    A little disappointed coming here: and wasting time already this year that i'll never get back....
    Regards - 'Shuv'

    PING G20 - 9.5  degree - Grafalloy ProLaunch Red - X
    BRIDGESTONE J33 (15) - Grafalloy ProLaunch Red - X
    MIZUNO Fli-Hi (17+20) - Grafalloy ProLaunch Red - X
    TAYLORMADE UDi No 4 (23 degree) - Project X - 6.5
    CALLAWAY X22 Tour Irons (5 - PW) - Project X - 6.5
    CALLAWAY MD3 Black (52+58 deg) - DG PRO S300
    RIFE Iconic Tour Vault 3 : Flow-Neck - 340g / 34.75"
    TAYLORMADE TP5 Golf Ball ←NEW 2019 Version→

    SHUV'S WITB: http://www.golfwrx.c...l-and-now-2016/
  • Bad9Bad9 Members Posts: 4,216 ✭✭
    Matadorb32 wrote:


    Ok, so I actually did try the drilling method. I clamped a Pro-V1x into a vice and drilled about half way down into the ball and mashed around a bit. I took a few of these balls to the range and surprisingly, it didn't have much of an effect. I was really expecting the ball to wildly slice or hook but if anything it was maybe only 15 yards offline.



    Currently, I have a batch of balls that I have frozen/thawed about 10 times and they are now sitting in a water bath. I'll keep them soaking for another week or so and then I'll dry them out and repeat.




    I imagine the drilling method worked with the old liquid centre balata balls but not so much with solid core balls. You might be better off drilling into the ball and inserting some lead weights to change the balance of the ball. I would imagine even 2-4 lead pellets would have a pretty drastic effect.
    Ping G400 10.5°/Xcaliber SL r flex
    Callaway Heavenwood Xcaliber SL r flex
    Maltby KE4 Tour 25°/Xcaliber HY r flex

    Maltby KE4 Tour 28°/Xcaliber HY r flex
    Ping I200 5-G/CFS70 r flex
    Maltby Tricept 54°/Xcaliber r flex
    Maltby Tricept 58°/Xcaliber r flex
    Mizuno Bettinardi C06
  • Matadorb32Matadorb32 Members Posts: 48 ✭✭
    I'd be concerned about adding lead weights into the ball. If they became dislodged it could become a safety hazard to players on other holes and I'd also be worried about damaging the club itself.
  • jslane57jslane57 Members Posts: 3,929 ✭✭
    Matadorb32 wrote:
    I'd be concerned about adding lead weights into the ball. If they became dislodged it could become a safety hazard to players on other holes and I'd also be worried about damaging the club itself.
    I agree. It’s one thing to goof off and have fun, it becomes something else if equipment gets damaged...
  • hwturner17hwturner17 Members Posts: 326 ✭✭
    Drill a hole in the side, patch the hole with putty or spackling and paint over it with whiteout or something similar to disguise the hole
    Driver: Ping G410 Plus
    FW: Ping Anser 4 wood
    Irons: Ping i210 4-U
    Wedges: 54/58 MD Forged
    Putter: Odyssey #7

    Ball: revolving door
  • ChronicSlicerChronicSlicer Members Posts: 943 ✭✭
    Fade wrote:


    Microwave for 3-4 minutes. Let stand for 1 minute before use.




    Sprinkle with some Franks Red Hot and enjoy!
  • JagpilotohioJagpilotohio 45+ inch drivers are evil. Columbus, OHMembers Posts: 7,223 ✭✭
    Soaking in water is pointless. Haven’t you ever bought reclaimed lake balls from places like Golfballs direct?



    Modern Balls can sit under water for months and still be just fine.
    9.5* Cobra LTD, Old school Grafalloy Blue, 43.5"
    14* Cally 815 alpha fuji 665 X 42"
    16* Cally 815 alpha fuji 665 X, 41.5" (set to 17*)
    19* Titleist 816 H2 fuji 8.8X TS 40.0"
    4-7 2016 Hogan PTx, KBS Tour V, 120X.  
    Ping i210 8 & 9 Proto 125 F5 hardstepped 1x.
    Ping glide 2 46-12, 50-12, 54-14 (at 55) stealth, Vokey SM6 60M (61). Wedges Recoil Proto 125 F5
    33.5" Ghost spider slant neck.
    Srixon Z-star XV
    Jones Trouper Bag
  • 2bGood2bGood Members Posts: 4,974 ✭✭
    hmmm. The inside of a Pro V1 is made up of polybutadine. From my understanding there is no solvent that will break it down, so drilling and injecting something is out of the picture. Too bad as that would be the most interesting thing to do. Literally turn the inside of the ball to mush.



    What I would do is cut one in half (ratcheting pipe cutters work great for this) and then play around with techniques to remove material. This might not directly help, but it will be good to see what is on the inside and understand what effort it takes to remove it.



    I would want to work towards being able to drill about 10 times though the same hole in the ball one dimple wide, then create some sort of scraper bit with 90* on the end and start removing material from the inside. Then refill with something that will effect ball flight etc.



    You also need to work on how you can disguise the hole.



    Seem like a fun way to waste a winter night or two.
Sign In or Register to comment.