Do what Works or Keep it Original?

baloobaloo A PersonMembers Posts: 1,080 ✭✭
When it comes to classic gear, which side are you on?



For me, it's all about function and I'll do anything to a club I think might help. Lead tape, new grips and shafts, you name it. I don't spend too much time getting them pretty.



This year I've put Jumbo Max grips on some vintage clubs. Feels almost blasphemous, but I have to do it if I think it will help...



On the other hand, some folks want original shafts and grips and maybe a nice restoration. There's a place for both, but I've never been in this camp.
Driver, 3W, 4W - Macgregor Custom Tourney
2-10 - 1954 Spalding Synchro Dyned
SW - Wilson Staff
Putter - Bullseye
Ball - Pro Plus

YT Channel - https://www.youtube....PlayVintageGolf

Comments

  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,283 ✭✭
    I'm with you. I'm not much for display pieces at this point in my life, so a club does little good if it's not playable. I've reshafted, regripped, lead taped, extended, cut down, etc, to get clubs playable for me.
    The Ever Changing Bag!

    Driver: Cobra King LTD, ProtoPype 80x or RIP 80x, 43.5" -or- SuperDeep 9.5*, ProtoPype 80x or NV85x, 43.5"
    3w: Cobra King LTD, Motore F1 85 X, 42.5"
    1 iron: Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
    2-PW, Golden Ram Tour Grind, Dynamic S
    SW: Ram Tour Grind Feel Matched 58*, DGS
    Putter: Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34.5", PP58 midsize grip
    (Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35" -or- Mizuno TPM-2, 35" as backups)
    Balls: in no particular order... Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV, Snell MTB Black... will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time
    Shoes by True Linkswear
  • James the Hogan FanJames the Hogan Fan Members Posts: 443 ✭✭
    Depends on the purpose of the club, but for me everything must be hypothetically playable at the end of the day. Mint Hogan Personal irons with original shafts and grips wouldn’t see much play, but I would still feel weird about them if they had an L flex shaft in them. Same with the wilson PW I mutilated the ferrule on; it needs a new ferrule and if that means cutting off and boring out the shaft, regrettably so be it.



    That said, I have a really hard time replacing grips on old clubs because they look so cool...
    Golfing in Finland!
  • DavewnDavewn West Des Moines, IAMembers Posts: 598 ✭✭
    It seems like very few classic clubs are rare or valuable enough to be concerned with maintaining originality. Do what you need to do to make them playable, "tools, not jewels" as it were.
    Callaway RAZR Fit 10.5* Aldila RIP'd NV 60 S
    Ping G5 13.5* Aerotech Powercoil 50 S
    TaylorMade 200 Steel 4 Wood TM Lite R-80
    Orlimar Black Ti 22* 4 Hybrid Litespeed R
    Adams A7 5-GW UST Proforce 85 R
    Golfsmith/Spalding Cash-In SW 55/12 Cleveland Action Lite S
    Cleveland TA 900 60* Nicklaus Driveshaft R
    Slotline Inertial 35" 
  • augustgolfaugustgolf Golf with dignity Coastal NCMembers Posts: 3,898 ✭✭
    Most of these classic/vintage clubs were clubs that were played in my younger days.



    I had no problem "modifying" them then, so no problem doing so today.
    Pings from the beginning

    OGA member 1415
    or is it 1514...
    I don't remember exactly
  • NRJyzrNRJyzr Allez Allez Allez Minnesota, USAMembers Posts: 6,283 ✭✭
    NRJyzr wrote:


    I'm with you. I'm not much for display pieces at this point in my life, so a club does little good if it's not playable. I've reshafted, regripped, lead taped, extended, cut down, etc, to get clubs playable for me.






    Thought I'd add a bit of background to the above...



    I'm only very slightly above average height, around six feet tall. However, I have shorter than average length arms. These two together have me requiring upright lie angles in my irons. What fits me is a 63* lie in my 5 iron, using my Golden Rams.



    This is part of why I slowed down on classic club acquisition. It's not too far into the past where everything would be short and very flat for me.
    The Ever Changing Bag!

    Driver: Cobra King LTD, ProtoPype 80x or RIP 80x, 43.5" -or- SuperDeep 9.5*, ProtoPype 80x or NV85x, 43.5"
    3w: Cobra King LTD, Motore F1 85 X, 42.5"
    1 iron: Maxfli Revolution, DGS400
    2-PW, Golden Ram Tour Grind, Dynamic S
    SW: Ram Tour Grind Feel Matched 58*, DGS
    Putter: Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34.5", PP58 midsize grip
    (Cleveland Huntington Beach #1 35" -or- Mizuno TPM-2, 35" as backups)
    Balls: in no particular order... Wilson Staff FG Tour, Duo Urethane, or 50 Elite, Srixon ZStar/ZStar XV, Snell MTB Black... will trot out Maxfli HT-100 or Elite 90 from time to time
    Shoes by True Linkswear
  • baloobaloo A Person Members Posts: 1,080 ✭✭
    NRJyzr wrote:

    NRJyzr wrote:


    I'm with you. I'm not much for display pieces at this point in my life, so a club does little good if it's not playable. I've reshafted, regripped, lead taped, extended, cut down, etc, to get clubs playable for me.






    Thought I'd add a bit of background to the above...



    I'm only very slightly above average height, around six feet tall. However, I have shorter than average length arms. These two together have me requiring upright lie angles in my irons. What fits me is a 63* lie in my 5 iron, using my Golden Rams.



    This is part of why I slowed down on classic club acquisition. It's not too far into the past where everything would be short and very flat for me.




    I've slowed down because I have to modify the clubs a decent amount as well. I'm the opposite of you though, I play all my stuff 2-3 degrees flat despite being 6'3".
    Driver, 3W, 4W - Macgregor Custom Tourney
    2-10 - 1954 Spalding Synchro Dyned
    SW - Wilson Staff
    Putter - Bullseye
    Ball - Pro Plus

    YT Channel - https://www.youtube....PlayVintageGolf
  • deejaiddeejaid Members Posts: 485 ✭✭
    edited Jan 5, 2019 3:20pm #8
    I believe you should do whatever is needed to make a club playable. When building classic clubs I use leather grips when I can afford it, but a black classic looking Golf Pride works well too. Now, I wouldn’t put a lime green Pure grip on a classic persimmon wood image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />



    If it isn’t a historic club used by a famous golfer, like Hogan’s 1-iron, do whatever it takes to get it back on the course.
    WITB
    Macgregor M09 driver
    Macgregor M85 Super Eye-O-Matic 3&4 woods
    Cleveland Classic TC15 5-wood
    KZG Forged Cavity 4-PW
    Ben Hogan TK15 51* 
    Ben Hogan Special Sand Iron
    Ping bronze Anser
  • BIG STUBIG STU Members Posts: 11,296 ✭✭
    I build modify and whatever it takes to get it playable for me--- Out of all the clubs I own there are only two that I will not modify--- One is a blonde Persimmon Penna driver that has never hit a ball period and the other one is a Mac Curtis Strange 56* SW that he gave me himself. But other than that I will regrip reshaft and of course use lead tape to get them playable.
  • jslane57jslane57 Members Posts: 3,929 ✭✭
    I will build, modify, grind, replace grips or anything to a club I intended to play. That said there was a time every club in my bag was modified, these days I like a stock club that works. If I find a classic club that I truly won’t play, I leave it alone...until I want to play it:)
  • No_Catchy_NicknameNo_Catchy_Nickname Kyushu,_JapanMembers Posts: 5,203 ✭✭
    Do what it takes to make it playable...though I almost always give a club a go in its original state.

    I generally look for clubs that have a shaft that is playable for me, but have sometimes reshafted. Often I have to get them extended, such as my recent acquisition of '72 Hogan Apexes. They need new grips, and the shafts are short for me (my modern clubs are half an inch longer than standard).

    Old putters usually get a fair amount lead tape slapped on them. Irons too, if necessary.



    One thing is that it's not difficult in Japan to find old clubs in amazing condition. I think many people hit their irons of mats most of the time as actually playing was so expensive. My two best finds were a set of Mac Muirifields 1i-SW that had most likely NEVER been hit, and a 3i-PW set of Honma PP737s that were mint. I'm not sure if the latter had been refurbished, because the shafts (DG S200) had no sign of rust and the grips had certainly been replaced.
    Driver: Ping G400 Tour 65S
    4w: TaylorMade R9 stock Fujikura Motore X flex
    7w TaylorMade V-steel, Quadra Fire Express RB 6SX
    Hybrid: RomaRo iBrid 23* Attas EZ 85S
    Irons (4i-PW): Wilson fg-62 S300 4/5-PW or MP4 Yoro Modus 125X 5-PW
    Wedges: Callaway MD2 T-grind combination of 52*, 56*, 58*, 60*
    Putter: Mac Jack Nicklaus Muirfield

    Old stuff: Tons of persimmon and older irons. 
  • JiggeredJiggered Midlands UKMembers Posts: 470 ✭✭
    First and foremost my clubs are for play.



    I'll always try and keep them as original as possible and at 5'10" tall I find that most old clubs are playable as they are in terms of length and lie, probably a little on the short side compared to how clubs are sold today but nothing to cause any great problems in playing.



    And with a swing speed that is neither fast nor slow I find I can play pretty much any shaft after a few holes with a club.



    Having said the above I know that the clubs aren't going to be optimised for me but my enjoyment these days is from playing vintage clubs, not scoring as low as I possibly can.



    Added to the fact that I change over the whole bag each week means that the most I might play any particular set of irons over a year could be half a dozen rounds, so there's no point in trying to make them perfect for my swing.



    If grips are reasonable I'll leave them on but if they're shot I've no issue with replacing them.

    I've never had the need to replace a shaft yet apart from hickory, when I do the difficulty will be in finding a suitable vintage shaft.
    It's not all about the score.
  • @_the_crook@_the_crook Members Posts: 652 ✭✭
    they have to be or made playable.



    no reason to invest anything into a set that you will not enjoy bringing to the course and having a good game with.



    there are some projects worth completing, others not.

    any clunkers, resell or donate.

    your place could end up looking a bit like mine. it's on the edge.
    currently playing:
    Steelhead III , FT-5 - D
    Warbirds, 3+, 4
    Hogan BH-5, 3-PW
    Wilson DynaPowered SW
    Ping Anser
    it works

    when I need a change, there are 12 bags full to choose from .
  • russadrussad Members Posts: 372 ✭✭
    Grips only for me and only if the originals are really unplayable.

  • dparkdpark Members Posts: 2,527 ✭✭
    Generally I modify clubs to my specs (grips, length, lie). I don't mess with loft as it messes up the bounce and makes them less playable.



    I do have 2 sets of pristine 50s era clubs that I play with that have original grips. But everything else will be modded as needed.
    Old stuff:
    1962 Tommy Armour AT2W Driver
    1953 Macgregor M65W EOM 3 wood
    1978 H&B PowerBilt Citation 4 wood
    1984 Ben Hogan Apex PC 2-E
    1968 Wilson Dual Wedge
    1964 Acushnet O-SET M6S Bullseye Putter

    New stuff
    Cobra ZL 10.5 driver
    Adams 5050 16 fairway wood
    Adams A2P 20* hybrid
    Titleist 716 MB irons 4-PW
    Callaway Mack Daddy wedges 52, 56, 60
    Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Napa
  • HoldenCornfieldHoldenCornfield I cut myself shaving... Members Posts: 1,117 ✭✭
    edited Jan 23, 2019 9:41am #16
    deejaid wrote:


    I believe you should do whatever is needed to make a club playable. When building classic clubs I use leather grips when I can afford it, but a black classic looking Golf Pride works well too. Now, I wouldn't put a lime green Pure grip on a classic persimmon wood image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />



    If it isn't a historic club used by a famous golfer, like Hogan's 1-iron, do whatever it takes to get it back on the course.




    Do you buy leather grips, such as Best Grips, or do you 'build' your own with leather strips and rubber underlistings?



    I love the Best Grips on my Hogan Precisions but @ $18 per it gets pretty expensive.
    And if you play persimmon, you're my friend
  • deejaiddeejaid Members Posts: 485 ✭✭
    edited Jan 23, 2019 10:36am #17

    deejaid wrote:


    I believe you should do whatever is needed to make a club playable. When building classic clubs I use leather grips when I can afford it, but a black classic looking Golf Pride works well too. Now, I wouldn't put a lime green Pure grip on a classic persimmon wood image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />



    If it isn't a historic club used by a famous golfer, like Hogan's 1-iron, do whatever it takes to get it back on the course.




    Do you buy leather grips, such as Best Grips, or do you 'build' your own with leather strips and rubber underlistings?



    I love the Best Grips on my Hogan Precisions but @ $18 per it gets pretty expensive.




    Yeah, I’ve been using GripMaster grips and just keep an eye out on eBay for deals.
    WITB
    Macgregor M09 driver
    Macgregor M85 Super Eye-O-Matic 3&4 woods
    Cleveland Classic TC15 5-wood
    KZG Forged Cavity 4-PW
    Ben Hogan TK15 51* 
    Ben Hogan Special Sand Iron
    Ping bronze Anser
  • @_the_crook@_the_crook Members Posts: 652 ✭✭
    just had some older sticks worked on so I can enjoy using them.



    Haig Ultra PW, Wilson JP II SW, Staff III Mendralla LW.

    all needed shaft length adjustments of plus or minus an inch.

    had a full set of irons cut down to match my preferences and a Staff three iron I found a while back cut to fit in with my FG-17's.



    the local GG had a promotion for free labor with new grip purchase.

    twelve clubs adjusted and new Tour Velvets installed.

    grabbed a roll of lead tape, an extra shaft vise clamp and a bottle of solvent for under a Benjamin.



    Deal!
    currently playing:
    Steelhead III , FT-5 - D
    Warbirds, 3+, 4
    Hogan BH-5, 3-PW
    Wilson DynaPowered SW
    Ping Anser
    it works

    when I need a change, there are 12 bags full to choose from .
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