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Why do I hit my Irons So much better than Driver??

johnroyal519johnroyal519 Advanced Members Posts: 80
I am struggling big time with the driver and have been for years.



I used to crush the driver and struggle with the irons. I had a horrible in to out swing (up to 10 deg) which would produce a great draw flight with the the driver and roll forever. Occasional snap hook but nothing I couldn't handle.



I was also in to out with irons which would kill me. Hit many shanks. Hit big hooks with irons - would have to aim on the right side of the green every time.

If the wind was going left I was dead. Couldn't hit a green with a PW.



Last winter I took a few lessons and really got the path neutral. In 2018 I hit beautiful irons. Straight and can work it either way. But then I started struggling with the Driver.



Lost most of the drives to the right.



I hit a PW 140 6 iron 185 4 iron 210 ish.



Driver SS is 107 ish but I'm struggling to get 260 out of it. Not hitting the middle and hitting weak slices







Does anyone here Draw the Driver and Cut the irons???? Such a hard thing for my body to do.

Comments

  • CwebbCwebb Advanced Members Posts: 5,847 ✭✭
    I'd do a lot of practice with foot powder spray on the driver face, so you can try different things and know on each strike exactly where your impact is.



    If you can't dial it in, might be time to get creative with different driver specs....lengths, weight, etc
  • JagpilotohioJagpilotohio 45+ inch drivers are evil. Advanced Members Posts: 7,035 ✭✭
    Chop it down an inch and put 8 grams of lead tape on the heel.



    I promise it will be easier to hit the middle and turn it over.
    9.5* Cobra LTD, Old school Grafalloy Blue, 43.5"
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  • BB28403BB28403 Advanced Members Posts: 2,723
    Read the Tyler Farrel guys stuff.

    He talks about himself being a great driver of the ball but bad with wedges.

    He boils it down to the fact that you are either good at Driver and woods or you are good at Irons and Wedges. It has to do with which swing suits which part of your game, low point control...etc.

    His website is golfsmartacademy

    And his book is called Find your Tour Swing

    Google all that if I am a little off.
  • elthrillelthrill Advanced Members Posts: 108
    Very similar story but for different reasons. I was a great driver. It was the only thing in golf i did well. I had a long swing with a s*** ton of hand release and early extended but cld time it like a **** and cld really hit it a long ways for a hack golfer. 285 on a warm day.



    Problem is all that manipulation was death for irons and most especially wedges. So i cldnt score and id waste great drives all day long. Totally scrapped my swing and learned it right about 3 yrs ago. Now im a very solid iron player and a pretty darn good wedge player. The driver went backwards and has taken me the longest to get back. Ive had to change the way i swung the driver and it has been hard. Very hard.



    What helped me:



    Shorten driver to 44"

    Stand closer to the ball. This helped me get more upright in my posture and swimg path which certainly helped me find center of face contact more often

    For now. Dont worry about trying to hit up on driver. Focus on center of clubface contact with a nice in tempo smooth swing.

    Be meticulous about backswing and getting in a good position at top and halfway back. Dont suck the club inside in takeaway. Its so easy to do with driver.

    And remember. With driver you really need to work on being patient from top. Its so easy to yank the club from top. Gradual speed from top. Think smooth acceleration.

    Work on it 15 minutes a day. Smooth garage swings hitting wiffle balls help. Driver feels different. Have to put time in. If u dont u overswing the club on the course. Its a club that really requires patience in transition and thats very hard. Just have to work at it.
  • MPStratMPStrat Advanced Members Posts: 942 ✭✭
    edited January 27
    My guess is that in your old swing, you were able to neutralize your excessively rightward swing direction by hitting up on the ball with driver. If you’re swinging more neutral now you may only need a setup adjustment with driver.
  • Krt22Krt22 Advanced Members Posts: 6,031 ✭✭
    edited January 27


    Does anyone here Draw the Driver and Cut the irons???? Such a hard thing for my body to do.




    I doubt it as that would require to very different swings. Hitting up shifts swing direction left, hitting down shifts it right. Much easier to draw irons and fade the driver than vice versa. So when your path was extreme to the right, driver was OK your irons were likely very unplayable with hooks/blocks/shanks, hence the lessons to fix the path. Now that you have neutralized your path, you need to figure out what is causing inconsistent contact, not completely change the way you swing
  • bladehunterbladehunter Today was a good day.... Advanced Members Posts: 24,214 ✭✭
    edited January 28
    even though my driving is getting better and better.. Its not half as good as my average iron game ... never has been . ill share the answer if i ever find it ..lol if i drove it as good as i hit my irons id rarely if not never shoot over par.. Ive proven this in my spurts of accurate driving ... the game is really easy to me when i hit it 280-300 plus up the middle....when i hit it 260 in the trees its really hard..
    TM Tour M6 11.2 * KK Tini XTS 70X
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  • glkglk send it in jerome Advanced Members Posts: 3,227 ✭✭
    Lots of possible variables. A big one is where the body centers are by impact. With an iron to hit down both the upper and lower centers move toward the target from where they started at setup. With driver the lower moves about the same distance as for irons but the upper body moves backward away from the target cause you are looking to hit more level to slightly up.



    This doesn't start happening until the delivery position or just before shaft parallel in downswing. So you add more tilt in a driver swing than with an iron. Folks who swing the same will struggle on one end of the spectrum depending on which pattern they have. Pro's whether conscience or trained make this adjustment.



    Can also be dependent of how one's generates their power source - upper body dominate works well with irons and vice versa. The legs and ground are needed to be used much more for the driver than irons - that pushing back with the lead leg is what drives the tilt. Whereas with irons you don't need to drive as hard - why you see guys "jump" with driver but not with their irons.



    Tyler does talk about this a bit in his book but has a handful of video (most on his pay site) talking about this.

    https://golfsmartaca...er-pros-vs-ams/



    A good one but on the pay site is this one but can take a 7 day free trial to see the analysis.



    And here is his presentation, that is on the youtube site, from a few years back at the world golf fitness seminar Can watch the first 5-8 minutes then skip to the 30 minute mark to see two folks, one iron bias, one driver bias, and how he worked with them to make changes.



    [media=]
  • johnroyal519johnroyal519 Advanced Members Posts: 80
    good info guys thanks



    Im working on a few setup tweaks and I feel a bit better about my driver swing
  • BB28403BB28403 Advanced Members Posts: 2,723
    I am struggling big time with the driver and have been for years.



    I used to crush the driver and struggle with the irons. I had a horrible in to out swing (up to 10 deg) which would produce a great draw flight with the the driver and roll forever. Occasional snap hook but nothing I couldn't handle.



    I was also in to out with irons which would kill me. Hit many shanks. Hit big hooks with irons - would have to aim on the right side of the green every time.

    If the wind was going left I was dead. Couldn't hit a green with a PW.



    Last winter I took a few lessons and really got the path neutral. In 2018 I hit beautiful irons. Straight and can work it either way. But then I started struggling with the Driver.



    Lost most of the drives to the right.



    I hit a PW 140 6 iron 185 4 iron 210 ish.



    Driver SS is 107 ish but I'm struggling to get 260 out of it. Not hitting the middle and hitting weak slices







    Does anyone here Draw the Driver and Cut the irons???? Such a hard thing for my body to do.




    Funny you should say you are 10 degrees this way or that. The latest guest on this podcast I listen to. He says he has intimate knowledge that T Woods had a 10 degree difference when he first got on a Trackman.



    So if one of the greatest ever , had what the world now calls “a problem”, is it really a problem? Food for thought
  • RohlioRohlio Advanced Members Posts: 2,290 ✭✭
    BB28403 wrote:

    I am struggling big time with the driver and have been for years.



    I used to crush the driver and struggle with the irons. I had a horrible in to out swing (up to 10 deg) which would produce a great draw flight with the the driver and roll forever. Occasional snap hook but nothing I couldn't handle.



    I was also in to out with irons which would kill me. Hit many shanks. Hit big hooks with irons - would have to aim on the right side of the green every time.

    If the wind was going left I was dead. Couldn't hit a green with a PW.



    Last winter I took a few lessons and really got the path neutral. In 2018 I hit beautiful irons. Straight and can work it either way. But then I started struggling with the Driver.



    Lost most of the drives to the right.



    I hit a PW 140 6 iron 185 4 iron 210 ish.



    Driver SS is 107 ish but I'm struggling to get 260 out of it. Not hitting the middle and hitting weak slices







    Does anyone here Draw the Driver and Cut the irons???? Such a hard thing for my body to do.




    Funny you should say you are 10 degrees this way or that. The latest guest on this podcast I listen to. He says he has intimate knowledge that T Woods had a 10 degree difference when he first got on a Trackman.



    So if one of the greatest ever , had what the world now calls “a problem”, is it really a problem? Food for thought




    It was a big enough problem it caused him to leave HH.
    WITB:
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    FW: Ping G25 4 wood Kuro Kage Silver TINI 80s
    Utility: 20* King Forged Utility One Length C Taper Lite S
    Irons: King Forged One Length 4-PW C Taper Lite S
    Wedges: Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin 50, 54, 58
    Putter: Custom Directed Force Reno 2.0 48" 80* Lie Side Saddle
  • Krt22Krt22 Advanced Members Posts: 6,031 ✭✭
    10 degrees in to out isn't playable, even for Tiger.
  • np78np78 Advanced Members Posts: 283
    having the same problem.



    I hit the irons flush almost any time yet can't hit the Driver worth a ****



    Following
  • andrueandrue Advanced Members Posts: 1,091
    edited March 14
    Very similar story to mine. Although initially I wasn't 'smashing' my driver, it was my most reliable club. I found the fairway going on for 75% of the time - I kid you not. The only downside was that the ball rarely went further than 160 yards from where I was standing. Then I bought a set of Big Bertha OS and for a month was in seventh heaven.



    Then for no obvious reason I became unable to launch the hybrids (5,4 and 3) so I took several lessons with a new pro at my club. He did wonders for my irons. He effectively gave me an extra two club's distance across the bag. My SW went from 60 yards to 90 yards. My 8i went from 115 yards to 130 yards. Good stuff.



    But he was never able to fix my hybrids and he destroyed my driver. There was a time last summer when I honestly didn't know how to swing the **** thing. Thankfully the course director fixed that for me and shortly afterwards I got the hybrids working again. I'm now making good progress with the driver in curing myself of a push fade (see the thread on not keeping the face open).



    Next week I'm on a residential golf course so am hopeful that by the end of the month I will have a very nice swing again. Maybe even all the way across the bag image/smile.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />



    As for why..I think it's because the swing is different. The method is the same but not the execution in the same way that driving a right hand vehicle is different to driving a left-hand vehicle. The different AoA for the club types means there has to be differences.
    Callaway Rogue Driver.
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    Callaway Big Bertha OS Irons (6/7/8/9/PW/AW/SW)
    Callaway 60* Sureout wedge
    Callaway 64* Sureout wedge
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