Anti-hook, low spin driver

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  • GreenstealthGreenstealth Members  127WRX Points: 25Posts: 127 Fairways
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    Tensei po is the most anti hook shaft I've ever swung
    Posted:
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  • Ripper859Ripper859 Northern Kentucky / CincinnatiMembers  106WRX Points: 54Handicap: 10Posts: 106 Fairways
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    Ping G400 lst set to open.
    Posted:
  • carreracarrera Northern CaliforniaMembers  2634WRX Points: 191Posts: 2,634 Titanium Tees
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    GMR2iron wrote:


    A little older, but a Mizuno MP650 is low spin and very anti-hook




    That was my first thought when I saw this thread.
    Posted:
    Cobra F9 Tour Length - Hzrdus Smoke 70 stiff
    Cobra F9 14.5 - Atmos Blue Stiff
    Callaway Epic Hybrid - Recoil 780 stiff
    TM790 - Steelfiber R 4-UW
    Ping Glide 2,0 wedges 54SS/58ES  - Recoil 95 F3
    TM Spider Tour
    Srixon Z-Star
  • TollBrosTollBros Overseer of the Test Range Sponsors  5015WRX Points: 323Posts: 5,015 Titanium Tees
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    TollBros wrote:


    Taylormade drivers will have the least amount of draw bias of anyone. M3 or M5 would do the trick. And if you want to make sure of the face angle go Tour issue. You can buy heads for $400 brand new in M3 tour issue. I'd much rather have a year old Tour head than the most recent retail one.






    I get the idea the OP is talking about spending about $150 for the whole golf club.




    Haha. Well then he's going to maybe have to go back to R15. I try to stay out of the budget threads.
    Posted:
    http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/forum/608-greengrassevaluationscom/

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  • bl8dbl8d Members  51WRX Points: 73Posts: 51 Bunkers
    Joined:  #36
    nybluebird wrote:


    Search is on for a driver best suited to me. Currently playing a JDM TM SLDR with Matrix OZIK 7m3 xflex. When I'm on with it, its pretty good, but I think I might be missing the boat a bit with forgiveness. I'm 6'2", with about 110 SS, with several more mph on standby when needed and a pretty good transition. Getting a little older (late 40's), but still play pretty well, maybe 2-3 handicap. Being a baseball player in my younger days, I always found my miss to be left, and sometimes get a case of the snaps. I'm guessing something low spin and anti left, if it exists. G400 LST? Epic SZ? M3 440? I'm open to suggestions. I'd of course prefer something used to keep cost down, and keep the wife happy. Thanks in advance.




    I recommend the Cobra FlyZ+

    It's adjustable hosel is second to none, and when the weight insert bias is set forward, it's baby fade all day.
    Posted:
  • MalcMalc Members  259WRX Points: 61Posts: 259 Greens
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    GMR2iron wrote:


    A little older, but a Mizuno MP650 is low spin and very anti-hook


    Not so sure about spin rates with the 650 but a beautiful head and feels like butter off the face.
    Posted:
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  • JustinTanJustinTan Members  16WRX Points: 0Handicap: 9.5Posts: 16 Bunkers
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    Ripper859 wrote:


    Ping G400 lst set to open.




    Setting the club to open and "de-lofting" would be the textbook solution but spin-axis effect has to be considered!



    Fixing the strike locations and optimising the choice of driver based on CG location would take precedence first!
    Posted:
    Ping G400 Max 9*, Tensei Ck Pro Orange 60 TX, Butt Trimmed to 44.5", D-2 SW
    Ping G400 5 Wood 17.5*, Fujikura Atmos Tour Spec Blue 7X, Tipped 0.5", Butt Trimmed to 41.75", D-2 SW
    Titleist 818 H1 Hybrid 21*, Project X Evenflo Blue 8X, Butt Trimmed to 39.5", D-2 SW
    Titleist AP3 Irons 5-G, Project X LZ 6.0, Butt Trimmed 0.5", D-2 SW
    Cleveland RTX-4 52*, 56* & 60*, KBS Custom Wedge Series 130X

    Titleist TS2 9.5*, Evenflow White T1100 6.0, Butt Trimmed to 44.5", D-2 SW
    Taylormade M4 3 Wood 15*, Tour AD MJ 7X, Tipped 0.5", Butt Trimmed to 42.5", D-2 SW
    Callaway GBB Epic Hybrid 20*, UST Mamiya Recoil F4, Butt Trimmed to 39.5", D-2 SW
    Mizuno MP18 MMC Fli-Hi 4 Iron, True Temper AMT Red S300, Butt Trimmed 0.5", D-2 SW
    Mizuno MP18 MMC 5-6 Iron, True Temper AMT Red S300, Butt Trimmed 0.5", D-2 SW
    Mizuno MP18 SC 7-8 Iron, True Temper AMT Red S300, Butt Trimmed 0.5", D-2 SW
    Mizuno MP18 Blade 9-P Iron, True Temper AMT Red S300, Butt Trimmed 0.5", D-2 SW
    Titleist Vokey SM7 Wedges, 50*, 54* & 58*, N.S. Pro Modus Wedge Series Limited Edition Augusta Green 130X
  • ian-500ian-500 Members  1076WRX Points: 288Handicap: 12Posts: 1,076 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #39
    Cheap: Cobra Amp Cell Pro on fade. Have mine with a swing weight at D7!

    Brand new: Flash SZ or M5.

    Left field: Epon Zero.
    Posted:
    DR: Callaway Rogue SZ 9° + Diamana W60x.
    FW: in the making.
    HY: Callaway Apex19 4h 23° + Tour AD IZ 95x.
    Irons: Taylormade R9 Forged 5i-PW + Quadra 100i Pro x.
    Wedges: iCleveland RTX3 52/58
    SeeMore SB1, Accra FX300.
  • MahamiltoMahamilto NYCMembers  2158WRX Points: 306Handicap: ~7Posts: 2,158 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #40
    I did nothing but snap hook the flyz+



    Ltd pro on fade was completely different
    Posted:
    Titleist TS3 - 10.5* - HZRDUS Smoke Black 60g 6.5
    Ping G410 LST - 14.5* - Evenflow Black 75g 6.5
    Callaway Apex 3h - 20* - Catalyst HYB80 6.5
    Titleist U500 4 iron - Modus 120x
    Titleist 716 T-MB 5-6 iron - DG AMT x100
    Titleist 718 AP2 7-GW - DG Tour Issue x100
    Titleist SM7 54.10 S-Grind - DG AMT x100
    Titleist SM2 58.12 - DGTI X100
    Scotty Cameron Phantom X 8.5
    Titleist Pro V1x, Bridgestone Tour BX
    Titleist Staff Stand Bag
  • GolfChannelGolfChannel Orlando, FloridaMembers  2483WRX Points: 738Handicap: 0.9Posts: 2,483 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #41
    Honma TW737 445, if you can make it go left you should just quit the game.
    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G410 Plus w/Tensei Orange
    3 Wood: Titleist TS2 w/HZRDUS Smoke
    Hybrid: Titleist 718 H2 w/Atmos Blue TS 
    Irons: Ping iBlade Nippon AWT 2.0 Stiff
    Wedges: Callaway MD3 50, 54, and 58
    Putter: Original Odyssey White Hot XG No. 7
    Ball: Bridgestone XS
  • jasonp87jasonp87 Members  2142WRX Points: 98Posts: 2,142 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #42
    Ltd pro for a budget driver thats awesome.



    As for people saying og wpic sz i found this driver very easy to turn over and or hit fades. Was workable but definetly not anti left.



    The og epic with the slider set to fade. Any m1 m3 combo setup in fade. Are good options.
    Posted:
    Driver
    TM M6 (9) Fujikura Pro 2.0 TS 6X 45"
    3W
    TM M3 (16) Fujikura Atmos Red Tour Spec 7X 43.25"
    5W
    TM M3 (19) Fujikura Atmos Red Tour Spec 7X 42.25"
    3i
    TM TP UDI (20.5) Dynamic Gold X100
    Irons
    Mizuno MP4 (4-PW) Modus 3 125X
    Wedges---TM Milled Grind Modus 3 125X (48) & TM Hi-Toe (54)(60) Modus 3 125 Wedge
    Putter
    TM Spider Tour Black (DJ) 34" SS Pistol GTR
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  • Hookasaurus RexHookasaurus Rex Purveyor of fine turf Members  1117WRX Points: 131Posts: 1,117 Platinum Tees
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    Tensei po is the most anti hook shaft I've ever swung




    And I can hook the crap out of that shaft as well, haha... That's how I know I'm freaking awesome!



    I've found the best way to have an anti-hook, low spin driver head is to have an anti-hook, low spin swing....



    But, if we are just talking about pure set ups, I'd say the LTD Pro and 2016 M2 are the two most anti-left driver heads I've used. Throw a pro orange in it, like the gentleman above said, and that maybe as anti left as you get.
    Posted:
    -🐍 LTD Pro Aldila Copperhead 60tx or
    -Callaway Tour issue Rogue SZ-V/Epic Flash 3💎 Rogue White 130 60x
    -Callaway Super Hybrid 16* Tensei Pro Orange 80s
    -Ping G410 19* Hybrid Evenflow Black 85 6.0
    -Taylormade p790 4-GW Project X LZ 6.0
    -🐍 King Black 54*, 58* Modus Wedge 115
    -PXG 🦇Attack Extreme Darkness 35”
  • 300_Straight300_Straight Members  1004WRX Points: 79Handicap: 9.5Posts: 1,004 Platinum Tees
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    Tensei po is the most anti hook shaft I've ever swung




    And I can hook the crap out of that shaft as well, haha... That's how I know I'm freaking awesome!



    I've found the best way to have an anti-hook, low spin driver head is to have an anti-hook, low spin swing....



    But, if we are just talking about pure set ups, I'd say the LTD Pro and 2016 M2 are the two most anti-left driver heads I've used. Throw a pro orange in it, like the gentleman above said, and that maybe as anti left as you get.


    Funny story, my miss on Trackman with the LTD Pro and PO 70TX was left as well lol. Like, 60 yard hooks. Of course 9* in to out doesn't help. Sometimes CB shafts dont get along with certain swings. Perhaps tipping could help.
    Posted:
    King LTD Pro 7.5* / Kuro Kage DC XT 60TX Tipped 1.25" -- 44.5"
    Exotics XCG7 Beta 13*
    Srixon z745 3-PW -- Modus 130x
    50/8f SM7
    54/12 Top Flite
    58/12d SM7

    Old Odyssey Mallet
  • manima1manima1 ChicagoMembers  772WRX Points: 136Handicap: 9.8Posts: 772 Golden Tee
    Joined:  edited Feb 4, 2019 #45




    Tensei po is the most anti hook shaft I've ever swung




    And I can hook the crap out of that shaft as well, haha... That's how I know I'm freaking awesome!



    I've found the best way to have an anti-hook, low spin driver head is to have an anti-hook, low spin swing....



    But, if we are just talking about pure set ups, I'd say the LTD Pro and 2016 M2 are the two most anti-left driver heads I've used. Throw a pro orange in it, like the gentleman above said, and that maybe as anti left as you get.


    Funny story, my miss on Trackman with the LTD Pro and PO 70TX was left as well lol. Like, 60 yard hooks. Of course 9* in to out doesn't help. Sometimes CB shafts dont get along with certain swings. Perhaps tipping could help.




    You need to add a good amount of weight back to the head in order to set up the PO properly. If you just bolt it on with no SW adjustment, most likely you won't feel the head and nothing but lefts will follow.



    Similar to shortening a shaft without adding back weight, counterbalanced shafts have the same effect.



    Also, another vote for the 2016M2 here. With a stiff tipped shaft and setup open/lower you get a very anti-left setup, especially if you can find a tour-issued head.
    Posted:
    M5 9.0->7.5 - Kuro Kage Dual Core 80tx 
    '16 M2HL 16.8 tour issued deep faced - Fujikura 8.3 TS
    zU45 18 degree - S400
    z745 4-PW - S400
    SM6 50.08F - S400 Steel Gray
    SM7 54.10S - S400 Raw
    TM Hi-Toe 60.12ATV - S400 Black
    TM Spider X - Navy
  • cjyner97cjyner97 Members  108WRX Points: 23Handicap: 5Posts: 108 Fairways
    Joined:  #46


    LTD pro. There is no better "anti hook " low spin driver.



    ...and the bonus, it's cheap now.





    Edit.....LOL! . Someone just beat me to it.....



    ....And I Forgot to add the original epic subzero. Couldn't turn it over to save my life.


    I can turn the epic sz with hzrdus yellow over easy lol. dealing with a snap hook atm
    Posted:
    Taylormade SIM w/ Ventus VeloCore blue
    Cobra Speedzone 3 wood w/ Ventus VeloCore red
    Cobra Speedzone 5 wood w/ Ventus VeloCore red
    Mizzy MP20 HMB (4/5) MP20 (6-PW) PX LZ 
    Taylormade MG2 50, 54, 58 Modus wedge black
    Taylormade Spider X
  • xarismataxarismata Members  204WRX Points: 82Posts: 204 Fairways
    Joined:  edited Feb 5, 2019 #47
    Among the drivers I have had Cobra bio cell pro driver with Diamana D+ 72 shafts is the best anti-left driver combo.
    Posted:
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  • MahamiltoMahamilto NYCMembers  2158WRX Points: 306Handicap: ~7Posts: 2,158 Platinum Tees
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    Heavier shaft and counterbalanced shafts bring left more into play.



    Stiffer tip and lighter more fade bias
    Posted:
    Titleist TS3 - 10.5* - HZRDUS Smoke Black 60g 6.5
    Ping G410 LST - 14.5* - Evenflow Black 75g 6.5
    Callaway Apex 3h - 20* - Catalyst HYB80 6.5
    Titleist U500 4 iron - Modus 120x
    Titleist 716 T-MB 5-6 iron - DG AMT x100
    Titleist 718 AP2 7-GW - DG Tour Issue x100
    Titleist SM7 54.10 S-Grind - DG AMT x100
    Titleist SM2 58.12 - DGTI X100
    Scotty Cameron Phantom X 8.5
    Titleist Pro V1x, Bridgestone Tour BX
    Titleist Staff Stand Bag
  • Krt22Krt22 East BayMembers  9036WRX Points: 2,681Posts: 9,036 Titanium Tees
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    Strange...I got fit into a heavy shaft with a stiff handle to reduce my left miss.
    Posted:
  • StanksStanks Everything I post is confrontational Members  1745WRX Points: 249Handicap: ?Posts: 1,745 Platinum Tees
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    It's funny because, you are using what has been widely considered one of the best drivers put out by Taylormade.



    Fix your swing, not your driver. You'll do the same thing with another driver unless it promotes more spin.



    A new driver is a band aid.
    Posted:
  • Sir edward of putternutSir edward of putternut DARTH SMUG Members  1370WRX Points: 96Posts: 1,370 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #51
    Epic sz. Have the jdm sldr 430 myself and the epic just throttles it
    Posted:
    Mizuno mp-5(px 5.5, 4-pw)
    Adams Pro 19'
    Hogan 51,55
    Callaway 60 pm grind
    Byron Morgan 007
    Callaway EpicSZ 9.0
    Mizuno JPX 900 3w


  • mosesgolfmosesgolf Members  7022WRX Points: 311Posts: 7,022 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  #52
    Taylormade M1 set 2* open and weights on toe does a great job of minimizing the lefts. Ditto on the snappy snappy. Smoothing out and slowing down the temp seems to help the most. Just stop trying to hit a big homer. Swing for a double. image/biggrin.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
    Posted:
    Ping G410 LST 10.5 TOUR AD DI6x
    Ping G410 LST 14.5 Tensei Blue 75 X
    Ping G410 17.5 Tensei Orange 70 X
    Titleist 818H 21
    Ping i200 5-AW KBS Tour 120 Stiff
    Ping Glide Forged 56
    Ping Glide Forged 60
    Ping UG-LE Putter
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  • MahamiltoMahamilto NYCMembers  2158WRX Points: 306Handicap: ~7Posts: 2,158 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #53
    Krt22 wrote:
    Strange...I got fit into a heavy shaft with a stiff handle to reduce my left miss.




    I thought it was strange too... but I read the article from diamana/Titleist that said lighter shafts statistically cause more right misses.



    This is why their new Kuro and AV 50-55g series have SFT (straight flight technology) to change balance and kickpoint to minimize the rights in a lighter shaft.



    When I read this, I went out with a whiteboard in 60 and 80, had the fitter put them in and not tell me (it was hard to tell the difference honestly), but sure enough I had more left misses with the 80.



    The counterbalance thing is probably the same principle.
    Posted:
    Titleist TS3 - 10.5* - HZRDUS Smoke Black 60g 6.5
    Ping G410 LST - 14.5* - Evenflow Black 75g 6.5
    Callaway Apex 3h - 20* - Catalyst HYB80 6.5
    Titleist U500 4 iron - Modus 120x
    Titleist 716 T-MB 5-6 iron - DG AMT x100
    Titleist 718 AP2 7-GW - DG Tour Issue x100
    Titleist SM7 54.10 S-Grind - DG AMT x100
    Titleist SM2 58.12 - DGTI X100
    Scotty Cameron Phantom X 8.5
    Titleist Pro V1x, Bridgestone Tour BX
    Titleist Staff Stand Bag
  • CwebbCwebb Members  6028WRX Points: 328Posts: 6,028 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  #54
    Mahamilto wrote:

    Krt22 wrote:
    Strange...I got fit into a heavy shaft with a stiff handle to reduce my left miss.




    I thought it was strange too... but I read the article from diamana/Titleist that said lighter shafts statistically cause more right misses.



    This is why their new Kuro and AV 50-55g series have SFT (straight flight technology) to change balance and kickpoint to minimize the rights in a lighter shaft.



    When I read this, I went out with a whiteboard in 60 and 80, had the fitter put them in and not tell me (it was hard to tell the difference honestly), but sure enough I had more left misses with the 80.



    The counterbalance thing is probably the same principle.




    For many players, a lighter total weight "promotes" a path that is less inside out or more outside in. As result, heavier can be easier to draw and lighter easier to fade.



    Obviously it also depends on what the face angle is doing in relation to the path as well.



    In general the base line starting point is.....heavier shaft and lighter head promotes easier to draw or minimize fade.....and lighter shaft with heavier head promotes easier to fade or minimize draw.



    Most are still stuck in the old mindset of hitting a certain swing weight with their driver. So with a lighter shaft they end up going with a heavy head to get the swing weight up. Not realizing this could promote a more fade biased or more difficult to "turn over" club
    Posted:
  • MahamiltoMahamilto NYCMembers  2158WRX Points: 306Handicap: ~7Posts: 2,158 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #55
    I’ll buy it.
    Posted:
    Titleist TS3 - 10.5* - HZRDUS Smoke Black 60g 6.5
    Ping G410 LST - 14.5* - Evenflow Black 75g 6.5
    Callaway Apex 3h - 20* - Catalyst HYB80 6.5
    Titleist U500 4 iron - Modus 120x
    Titleist 716 T-MB 5-6 iron - DG AMT x100
    Titleist 718 AP2 7-GW - DG Tour Issue x100
    Titleist SM7 54.10 S-Grind - DG AMT x100
    Titleist SM2 58.12 - DGTI X100
    Scotty Cameron Phantom X 8.5
    Titleist Pro V1x, Bridgestone Tour BX
    Titleist Staff Stand Bag
  • Krt22Krt22 East BayMembers  9036WRX Points: 2,681Posts: 9,036 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  edited Feb 6, 2019 #56
    Cwebb wrote:

    Mahamilto wrote:

    Krt22 wrote:
    Strange...I got fit into a heavy shaft with a stiff handle to reduce my left miss.




    I thought it was strange too... but I read the article from diamana/Titleist that said lighter shafts statistically cause more right misses.



    This is why their new Kuro and AV 50-55g series have SFT (straight flight technology) to change balance and kickpoint to minimize the rights in a lighter shaft.



    When I read this, I went out with a whiteboard in 60 and 80, had the fitter put them in and not tell me (it was hard to tell the difference honestly), but sure enough I had more left misses with the 80.



    The counterbalance thing is probably the same principle.




    For many players, a lighter total weight "promotes" a path that is less inside out or more outside in. As result, heavier can be easier to draw and lighter easier to fade.



    Obviously it also depends on what the face angle is doing in relation to the path as well.



    In general the base line starting point is.....heavier shaft and lighter head promotes easier to draw or minimize fade.....and lighter shaft with heavier head promotes easier to fade or minimize draw.



    Most are still stuck in the old mindset of hitting a certain swing weight with their driver. So with a lighter shaft they end up going with a heavy head to get the swing weight up. Not realizing this could promote a more fade biased or more difficult to "turn over" club




    I might just have a unique swing. I tried some lighter versions and my gamer was an Addi 6X playing D2 in a srixon Z785 head. I got some great ball speed numbers but the snap hook was always on the table. I was fit into a speeder 757X, SW D5 and I can go after it as hard as I want and not worry the dreaded snapper. The FTP numbers were pretty dramatically different. Very possible the addi was just too soft a profile for me, being the club ho that I am I might try some of the more stout 60g offerings lol



    Oddly enough irons I was fit into a lighter shaft, path slightly less into out, but FTP also the main difference. Rope draws vs big bananas
    Posted:
  • nybluebirdnybluebird Members  426WRX Points: 50Posts: 426 Bunkers
    Joined:  #57
    Stanks wrote:


    It's funny because, you are using what has been widely considered one of the best drivers put out by Taylormade.



    Fix your swing, not your driver. You'll do the same thing with another driver unless it promotes more spin.



    A new driver is a band aid.




    I hear you. My misses overall are left, but I'm a pretty good stick who is aging and don't currently have a ton of time on my hands to really get better. I was a +2.5 or so at one point (not any more), so I doubt I'm going to really improve much. Just looking to optimize my equipment to best suit my common miss....left. Hence the request for suggestions from my wrx people who may have more knowledge and may suffer the same as me.
    Posted:
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  • ctmason_98ctmason_98 TOTALLY outta the bag... Members  1832WRX Points: 105Handicap: BIGPosts: 1,832 Platinum Tees
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    Not to pile on, but in my experience the only driver that was "anti-hook" for me was the one I got that fit me properly. Couple that with swing analysis and improvements, and I truly do believe the club face doesn't matter all that much
    Posted:
  • nybluebirdnybluebird Members  426WRX Points: 50Posts: 426 Bunkers
    Joined:  #59
    JustinTan wrote:


    Dear OP,



    My personal opinion is that we need to understand better why you are snap-hooking. Without understanding your swing, there’s only so much recommendation that can be done.



    1) The Swing problem:



    Clubhead speed for the average golfer is 85 to 100 miles per hour. Let's say you're swinging down at 90 mph, and your body stops turning . What happens? Well, you're not stopping that clubhead, so it whips past you. The face flips closed, and you hit a snap-hook--a low screamer that turns left before it leaves the tee box.



    With most snap-hooks, there's another telltale sign: Your weight never shifts to your front foot during the downswing. Combine that with a stalled turn, and it's easy to snap it. Especially with uphill tee shots, where there's an urge to hang back and help the ball up, or when nerves or fatigue work against a full turn through the ball.



    Hence we golfers must always remember to get our belt buckle to the target. Keep turning until the middle of our body faces forward. And be sure to shift off that back foot. Shift forward, turn through. Then we can beat those nasty hooks.



    However, with some players, they have too much body action on the downswing. They slide their hips aggressively, which can cause the club to drop behind the body. The result often is a big block to the right causing the hands to move without the body which gives you a snap hook!



    2) The Club problem:



    Could it be the Driver Head’s CG design doesn’t suit your consistent impact position on the clubface?



    If you are hitting the ball with a positive face to path, but still getting a hook, it could be due to too much of a negative spin axis problem where you are hitting the ball off the toe of the club face.



    Just like how some people hit the ball in a in-to-out swing path but still play a fade(slice) because they created too much positive spin axis on the golf ball by striking it off the heel of the club face.



    Choose a driver that has a CG spot located as close to where you hit it out of consistently, that would help. Just like how, all the Slice players out there can buy the M6 D-Type driver to hit straight shots because the Sweet spot CG location of that driver is in the Heel!!



    So buy a driver head that has a CG closest to your consistent impact spot. I’m guessing that would be near the Toe.



    Based on all the drivers in 2018 (2019 drivers data not out yet), the G400Max has the CG closest to the toe. 2nd place would be an M3. Third is the G400LST.



    After we solve the above issue, then we can start looking at what launch conditions you want based on your angle of attack and select the head with the right loft and right front to back CG location.



    Please don’t mix up, in the 1st issue, we were filtering the driver heads according to Heel to Toe CG location to make up for the striking consistency.



    Front to back CG is more on launch characteristics and MOI forgiveness.



    Assuming you’re launching the ball fine. The next thing is to choose a driver that has a higher MOI so that the driver head weight is split over a larger mass which makes the club head more stable on off-center strikes hence mitigating the hook or slice effect.



    Imagine an old school persimmon wood with low MOI, any strike other than the sweet spot would cause the club face to “twist” you can feel it in your hands like the club wants to twist loose out of your grip. A large MOI club head being more stable, mitigates that effect which might help your snap hooks be less hooky lol.



    Another reason I could think of could be the shaft not being stiff enough and giving too much deflection upon release/impact. Perhaps playing a stiffer shaft depending on your swing speed and a shaft with slightly lower torque <3.5 might help.




    Great info, thanks for taking the time. Unfortunately, my swing at this point in my life, kinda is what it is. I'm pretty decent usually shoot anywhere from upper 60's to mid-upper 70's, so if I really improve much at my age with limited time, I'm joining The Champions Tour lol. Just looking to get the best info for equipment suited to my usual miss. Much appreciated
    Posted:
  • StanksStanks Everything I post is confrontational Members  1745WRX Points: 249Handicap: ?Posts: 1,745 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #60
    nybluebird wrote:

    Stanks wrote:


    It's funny because, you are using what has been widely considered one of the best drivers put out by Taylormade.



    Fix your swing, not your driver. You'll do the same thing with another driver unless it promotes more spin.



    A new driver is a band aid.




    I hear you. My misses overall are left, but I'm a pretty good stick who is aging and don't currently have a ton of time on my hands to really get better. I was a +2.5 or so at one point (not any more), so I doubt I'm going to really improve much. Just looking to optimize my equipment to best suit my common miss....left. Hence the request for suggestions from my wrx people who may have more knowledge and may suffer the same as me.




    I hear ya, brother. No offense intended at all. Hope none taken.



    I'm a huge advocate (as well as most pros, fitters and coaches) for us amateurs and low / high cappers alike to LOFT UP, get more spin (2200 - 2400 depending on swing speed) and ideally, make sure you have the right shaft and right club head and your gamer ball with yuo at the time of being fit.



    When you start looking at low low spin drivers then, you will find your slices hard over right and your draws hard hook left. Ya you'll get the 1/10 immaculate shots that will roll out 360+ yards but, I'd take consistency any day. Hence, why I went M6, EF white, and play Nike RZN Tour / TP5 Balls. I know what I'm hitting and I'm much better for it.
    Posted:
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  • Sir edward of putternutSir edward of putternut DARTH SMUG Members  1370WRX Points: 96Posts: 1,370 Platinum Tees
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    Stanks wrote:

    nybluebird wrote:

    Stanks wrote:


    It's funny because, you are using what has been widely considered one of the best drivers put out by Taylormade.



    Fix your swing, not your driver. You'll do the same thing with another driver unless it promotes more spin.



    A new driver is a band aid.




    I hear you. My misses overall are left, but I'm a pretty good stick who is aging and don't currently have a ton of time on my hands to really get better. I was a +2.5 or so at one point (not any more), so I doubt I'm going to really improve much. Just looking to optimize my equipment to best suit my common miss....left. Hence the request for suggestions from my wrx people who may have more knowledge and may suffer the same as me.




    I hear ya, brother. No offense intended at all. Hope none taken.



    I'm a huge advocate (as well as most pros, fitters and coaches) for us amateurs and low / high cappers alike to LOFT UP, get more spin (2200 - 2400 depending on swing speed) and ideally, make sure you have the right shaft and right club head and your gamer ball with yuo at the time of being fit.



    When you start looking at low low spin drivers then, you will find your slices hard over right and your draws hard hook left. Ya you'll get the 1/10 immaculate shots that will roll out 360+ yards but, I'd take consistency any day. Hence, why I went M6, EF white, and play Nike RZN Tour / TP5 Balls. I know what I'm hitting and I'm much better for it.


    "Shots that role out at 360+" ;/
    Posted:
    Mizuno mp-5(px 5.5, 4-pw)
    Adams Pro 19'
    Hogan 51,55
    Callaway 60 pm grind
    Byron Morgan 007
    Callaway EpicSZ 9.0
    Mizuno JPX 900 3w


3

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