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Help with paintfill bleed on satin blasted putters


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Hey everyone. I'm hoping to find a solution to paintfill issues I'm having on putters with a beadblasted finish. I used to refinish all of my putters with a polished look before I applied a black oxide. When I did this method, even the most intricate of paintfill jobs was a breeze because

Now that I'm usually beadblasting a putter before I finish it, the paintfill process has become infinitely more tedious. I apply paints and wipe clean with acetone and it leaves so much streaking behind. I'm assuming this has to do with small pores from he beadbalsting process absorbing paint. Dark colors on stainless will streak like crazy, as well as light colors on black oxide. See the red "Scotty" on the neck of a beadblast satin finished studio style (attached image) I just did and you can see the area surrounding the "Scotty" has a ton of residual red color.

 

Does anyone have any tips, tricks or suggestions for me? I've ordered some needle point bottles for more accurate paint application, but I'm still going to have to wipe clean with acetone when I'm done.

 

Thanks!

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Q-tip, or something absorbent that's similarly sized. After the initial wipe down as you've done, carefully use the small item and wipe towards the letters/shapes, lifting ever so slightly as you get to the letter's edge. It sucks I know, but will work if you're patient.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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You can also use a metal polish with silicone in it to seal the porous finish before doing the paintfill. It can definitely be tedious and a headache trying to get that done without bleeding. A lot different ball game then doing a putter that hasn't been bead blasted.

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Q-tip, or something absorbent that's similarly sized. After the initial wipe down as you've done, carefully use the small item and wipe towards the letters/shapes, lifting ever so slightly as you get to the letter's edge. It sucks I know, but will work if you're patient.

 

I've Q-tipped the hell out of it (regular tips, not necessarily the precision tipped ones) and it still leaves quite a bit of residual paint behind. I've tried #00 steel wool with a little bit of success. Still a pain!

 

 

You can also use a metal polish with silicone in it to seal the porous finish before doing the paintfill. It can definitely be tedious and a headache trying to get that done without bleeding. A lot different ball game then doing a putter that hasn't been bead blasted.

 

Any recommendations on a metal polish to use for this? Something like Flitz perhaps?

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A.) What kind of paint are you using?

 

B.) What sort of pitted blasting have you done to the surface, seriously, does it resemble a sponge?

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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My first thought is that your blasting is too aggressive.

this. Can you do it a second time with a lighter media? Glass?

 

Sorry everyone, golfwrx emails got sent to my spam folder so I wasn't aware of the replies. I blast with 80 grit glass beads at roughly 50psi, sometimes up to 70. Does anyone have a recommended grit/PSI combination? I'm using some pretty good glass beads - for a while I used the harbor freight ones which were absolutely awful. I use testors enamel paint from Michaels

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My first thought is that your blasting is too aggressive.

this. Can you do it a second time with a lighter media? Glass?

 

Sorry everyone, golfwrx emails got sent to my spam folder so I wasn't aware of the replies. I blast with 80 grit glass beads at roughly 50psi, sometimes up to 70. Does anyone have a recommended grit/PSI combination? I'm using some pretty good glass beads - for a while I used the harbor freight ones which were absolutely awful. I use testors enamel paint from Michaels

Originally I used 80 grit crushed glass, which gave the issues you describe. Now I use 120 grit beads at 50psi. It does add a bit of extra time, but seems to work well.
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Are you just blasting and then doing the fill ?

Driver- TC Epic 440 with Hzrdus T1100<br />3-Wood- 13 Degree Ping stretch with Ping Tour 75x<br />Hybrid- 915 with Graphite Design Tour AD DI 85<br />Irons- ( 4-PW ) JPX 900 Forged with 110s Steelfibers - Wedges- Sm6 Vokey 48 bent 2 degrees strong - sm6 vokey raw 56 bent to 55 , 58 Raw Low Bounce K grind ( 110 Steelfibers in all wedges same length shafts )<br />Putter- Scotty Cameron Laguna 1.5 Studio Torch Finish that I did...

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  • 5 months later...

So... I am not an expert on putter refinishing (but I have done some in my day) but I do know hobby paint. If you are using Testors, you MUST thin it. Testors has much more pigment and some "talc". I believe that might be your problem. Model Master is made by Testors but is a better quality and not as much of the pigment and talc. If it were me, I would either go with Model Master, Tamiya (Cameron translucent colors), Humbrol, Vallejo, Gunze Sangyo (Mr. Color$$) and White Ensign. > @markbuch said:

> > @TheBIIgCat said:

> > Are you just blasting and then doing the fill ?

>

> That is correct. I figured if I blasted after the fill it would just strip any paint.

 

 

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Switch over to a finer glass bead and your world will change. Don't be afraid to pay a little extra for quality beads. I have fallen victim to Harbor Freight, myself.

Here is a link to a nice bead: https://www.amazon.com/Blast-Media-Glass-Beads-Fine/dp/B007IA1CYS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Ballotini+Fine+glass+beads&qid=1567836911&s=industrial&sr=1-5

I've used everything from Testors to Tamiya to countless brands of nail polish. Thinning the fill product can give you better results, as mentioned. Are you letting the fill dry before wiping or just apply, wipe the excess and see how it goes? There are many opinions on that part, as well. ME? I let the fill dry, then give it a good, fast, wet wipe. Just one Mann's method and you will find what works best for you. Post pix whenever you get in a jam. Guys here are always happy to help and give advice on what has worked for them.

Best of luck,

LaMont in AZ

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> @golfluvzme said:

> Switch over to a finer glass bead and your world will change. Don't be afraid to pay a little extra for quality beads. I have fallen victim to Harbor Freight, myself.

> Here is a link to a nice bead: https://www.amazon.com/Blast-Media-Glass-Beads-Fine/dp/B007IA1CYS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Ballotini+Fine+glass+beads&qid=1567836911&s=industrial&sr=1-5

> I've used everything from Testors to Tamiya to countless brands of nail polish. Thinning the fill product can give you better results, as mentioned. Are you letting the fill dry before wiping or just apply, wipe the excess and see how it goes? There are many opinions on that part, as well. ME? I let the fill dry, then give it a good, fast, wet wipe. Just one Mann's method and you will find what works best for you. Post pix whenever you get in a jam. Guys here are always happy to help and give advice on what has worked for them.

> Best of luck,

> LaMont in AZ

 

As always.... You are the man LaMont!!!!!

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