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Help with paintfill bleed on satin blasted putters

Hey everyone. I'm hoping to find a solution to paintfill issues I'm having on putters with a beadblasted finish. I used to refinish all of my putters with a polished look before I applied a black oxide. When I did this method, even the most intricate of paintfill jobs was a breeze because I could apply the paint sloppily and just wipe it clean with acetone. Now that I'm usually beadblasting a putter before I finish it, the paintfill process has become infinitely more tedious. I apply paints and wipe clean with acetone and it leaves so much streaking behind. I'm assuming this has to do with small pores from he beadbalsting process absorbing paint. Dark colors on stainless will streak like crazy, as well as light colors on black oxide. See the red "Scotty" on the neck of a beadblast satin finished studio style (attached image) I just did and you can see the area surrounding the "Scotty" has a ton of residual red color.



Does anyone have any tips, tricks or suggestions for me? I've ordered some needle point bottles for more accurate paint application, but I'm still going to have to wipe clean with acetone when I'm done.



Thanks!

Comments

  • A.PrinceyA.Princey Major Hacker Advanced Members Posts: 1,953 ✭✭
    Q-tip, or something absorbent that's similarly sized. After the initial wipe down as you've done, carefully use the small item and wipe towards the letters/shapes, lifting ever so slightly as you get to the letter's edge. It sucks I know, but will work if you're patient.
    Ping G 10.5*, Fuji Pro 63-R 43"
    '16 M1 3w HL 17*, Xcon 7-S(untipped) 41"
    Ping Rapture 3i, AWT-R
    Ping G25 4-G, DG-R400
    Vokey 56(57*), 60(63*) DG-R400
    Byron DH89 Longneck 33" (or any of 10 4 other putters...)
  • SkhackerSkhacker The Minimalist Golfer Advanced Members Posts: 1,455 ✭✭
    You can also use a metal polish with silicone in it to seal the porous finish before doing the paintfill. It can definitely be tedious and a headache trying to get that done without bleeding. A lot different ball game then doing a putter that hasn't been bead blasted.
  • markbuchmarkbuch Members Posts: 11
    edited March 7
    A.Princey wrote:


    Q-tip, or something absorbent that's similarly sized. After the initial wipe down as you've done, carefully use the small item and wipe towards the letters/shapes, lifting ever so slightly as you get to the letter's edge. It sucks I know, but will work if you're patient.




    I've Q-tipped the **** out of it (regular tips, not necessarily the precision tipped ones) and it still leaves quite a bit of residual paint behind. I've tried #00 steel wool with a little bit of success. Still a pain!




    Skhacker wrote:


    You can also use a metal polish with silicone in it to seal the porous finish before doing the paintfill. It can definitely be tedious and a headache trying to get that done without bleeding. A lot different ball game then doing a putter that hasn't been bead blasted.




    Any recommendations on a metal polish to use for this? Something like Flitz perhaps?
  • SkhackerSkhacker The Minimalist Golfer Advanced Members Posts: 1,455 ✭✭
    I'll take a pic of the two different kinds I've used later tonight
  • A.PrinceyA.Princey Major Hacker Advanced Members Posts: 1,953 ✭✭
    A.) What kind of paint are you using?



    B.) What sort of pitted blasting have you done to the surface, seriously, does it resemble a sponge?
    Ping G 10.5*, Fuji Pro 63-R 43"
    '16 M1 3w HL 17*, Xcon 7-S(untipped) 41"
    Ping Rapture 3i, AWT-R
    Ping G25 4-G, DG-R400
    Vokey 56(57*), 60(63*) DG-R400
    Byron DH89 Longneck 33" (or any of 10 4 other putters...)
  • Scotty1140Scotty1140 Advanced Members Posts: 4,392 ✭✭
    My first thought is that your blasting is too aggressive.
  • benno_rbenno_r Advanced Members Posts: 746 ✭✭
    Scotty1140 wrote:


    My first thought is that your blasting is too aggressive.




    Same here, I had a real problems when i used a coarser blast medium. Paint would bleed, even touching the putter would leave "fingerprints".



    I now use a much finer medium, and paintfill is much neater.
    Mizuno MP Type 2 - ADTP 6s
    Taylormade M2 - ADDI 7s
    FLY-Z XL 19 - Attas 105HS
    FLY-Z XL 22 - Attas 105HS
    Ping G30 5-GW
    GrindWorks 54/58
    Edel / Lajosi / Ping / Xenon / Odyssey / Black Lab on rotation
  • OrlandogolfguruOrlandogolfguru OrlandoGolfGuru ClubWRX Charter Members Posts: 1,952 ClubWRX
    Scotty1140 wrote:


    My first thought is that your blasting is too aggressive.
    this. Can you do it a second time with a lighter media? Glass?
    TaylorMade M6 Driver
    Cobra F9 Fwy
    TaylorMade M6 Hyb
    Mizuno JPX 919 HM Pro Irons
    Corey Paul Torched 1020 Wedges
    Mannkrafted 1/1 OGG Putter
    Bridgestone ball, Sun Mountain Bag
  • markbuchmarkbuch Members Posts: 11

    Scotty1140 wrote:


    My first thought is that your blasting is too aggressive.
    this. Can you do it a second time with a lighter media? Glass?




    Sorry everyone, golfwrx emails got sent to my spam folder so I wasn't aware of the replies. I blast with 80 grit glass beads at roughly 50psi, sometimes up to 70. Does anyone have a recommended grit/PSI combination? I'm using some pretty good glass beads - for a while I used the harbor freight ones which were absolutely awful. I use testors enamel paint from Michaels
  • Sporting chanceSporting chance Advanced Members Posts: 188
    I always polish my bead blasted finishes with fine steel wool under running water. It takes away any powdery or porous surfaces that cause the streaking you describe.

  • benno_rbenno_r Advanced Members Posts: 746 ✭✭
    markbuch wrote:

    Scotty1140 wrote:


    My first thought is that your blasting is too aggressive.
    this. Can you do it a second time with a lighter media? Glass?




    Sorry everyone, golfwrx emails got sent to my spam folder so I wasn't aware of the replies. I blast with 80 grit glass beads at roughly 50psi, sometimes up to 70. Does anyone have a recommended grit/PSI combination? I'm using some pretty good glass beads - for a while I used the harbor freight ones which were absolutely awful. I use testors enamel paint from Michaels
    Originally I used 80 grit crushed glass, which gave the issues you describe. Now I use 120 grit beads at 50psi. It does add a bit of extra time, but seems to work well.
    Mizuno MP Type 2 - ADTP 6s
    Taylormade M2 - ADDI 7s
    FLY-Z XL 19 - Attas 105HS
    FLY-Z XL 22 - Attas 105HS
    Ping G30 5-GW
    GrindWorks 54/58
    Edel / Lajosi / Ping / Xenon / Odyssey / Black Lab on rotation
  • TheBIIgCatTheBIIgCat ClubWRX Charter Members Posts: 1,435 ClubWRX
    Are you just blasting and then doing the fill ?
    Driver- TC Epic 440 with Hzrdus T1100<br />3-Wood- 13 Degree Ping stretch with Ping Tour 75x<br />Hybrid- 915 with Graphite Design Tour AD DI 85<br />Irons- ( 4-PW ) JPX 900 Forged with 110s Steelfibers - Wedges- Sm6 Vokey 48 bent 2 degrees strong - sm6 vokey raw 56 bent to 55 , 58 Raw Low Bounce K grind ( 110 Steelfibers in all wedges same length shafts )<br />Putter- Scotty Cameron Laguna 1.5 Studio Torch Finish that I did...
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