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Iron Lengths for Tall Golfers

uglandeuglande Advanced Members Posts: 98 ✭✭
edited March 13 in WRX Club Techs
I am 6' 5" and have struggled for decades with irons that are too long for me because most fitters in the country still cling to the myth that tall golfers need longer irons.



In my experience, adding 1 inch of club length creates mid and long irons that are incredibly heavy and terribly inconsistent. My 5 iron is like a heavy 3 iron for a normal golfer. How many people can consistently hit a 3 iron at D8? Well, that's my 5 iron.



Some fitters will even prescribe clubs that are 1.5-2.0 inches long for some of their taller golfers. That's just malpractice.



Anyway, I'm doing something different this year that has worked out really well so far in testing, which is to reduce the length gaps in my irons to just 1/4 inch (sort of splitting the difference between single length and standard variable), which gives me more length where I need it and less where I don't. My new set looks like this:



5 iron = +.00 over standard (37.75") SW D2.0 (Distance: 205)

6 iron = +.25 over standard (37.50") SW D3.5 (Distance: 190)

7 iron = +.50 over standard (37.25") SW D5.0 (Distance: 175)

8 iron = +.75 over standard (37.00") SW D6.5 (Distance: 158)

9 iron = +1.0 over standard (36.75") SW D8.0 (Distance: 145)

P iron = +1.0 over standard (36.50") SW D8.0 (Distance: 130)



My distance gaps are fine, and I'm much more consistent with the longer irons, which are shorter and lighter than my previous standard (+1 inch). The only catch is that this setup produces ascending swing weights, but that is a plus not a minus for me. I like my clubs getting lighter as they get longer (same concept as AWT but with changes produced by headweight rather than shaft weight). Works great. I'll never go back to +1 length in longer irons. It honestly makes no sense and is an issue that the fitting industry should start to address.
Post edited by Unknown User on
Wood (08.5) TITLEIST TS3 - Diamana White 70X
Wood (13.5) TITLEIST TS3 - Diamana White 80X
Wood (21.0) TITLEIST TS2 - Diamana White 80X
Iron (17.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - Diamana White 90X
Iron (23.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
Iron (26.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
Iron (30.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
Iron (35.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
Iron (40.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
Iron (45.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
Wedge (50.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-F - DGS200
Wedge (54.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-S - DGS200
Wedge (60.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-D - DGS200
Putter TAYLORMADE Spider

Comments

  • LCPLCP Advanced Members Posts: 1,267
    edited March 12
    There's a whole other topic that you can read for weeks on this, but I'm 6'5" too and have gotten my 5 iron at plus 1.75" vs. plus 2.25" in my sand wedge, and the 5 iron at D6 plays fine for me. D8 (my short iron weight) would be another story. You need clubs that can be made lighter when they're made longer. Ping was one of the choices that could do that well. I could play shorter than 1.75" at the long end of the bag, but there I'm trying to maintain, if not extend, gapping, and go for distance a little more than accuracy like I would at the short end of the bag.
  • Stuart G.Stuart G. Members, Advanced Members Posts: 22,640 ✭✭
    edited March 13
    Well, it's not just about height - arm length needs to be considered as well. WTF (wrist to floor) It is generally considered a good starting place for the fitting process. But all results need to be verified dynamically.



    While it is very important to make sure the short irons and wedges do NOT get too short for the taller player, just because one needs the short irons and wedges to be longer doesn't mean they also need the length of the longer irons to increase just as much. There is no fixed rule saying the length increments between clubs has to be a full 1/2". In fact 3/8" increments is becoming a bit more popular suggestion around here - and not just for taller players. The longer irons can be troublesome for many am's even for std length sets.



    Just fit the lengths separately for the shortest iron and the longest iron you want to play. Then you can get a length increment by dividing the difference by the number of increments needed between them.



    Second, too heavy feeling is really a problem with the head weight and NOT the length. Proper fitting for length also means getting a proper fitting for shaft weight and swing weight - or really head weight - as well. All 3 of those specs have some inter-dependence - if one changes, the others might need to change as well. You can't look at one w/o also considering the others. This is why many attempts to lengthen a set have failed. One buys a used (or new) standard length set and tries to extend or convert it to a longer length but the head weights are too heavy for the longer lengths. Some companies make lighter heads for the sets that are custom ordered at the longer lengths - but some do a better job at that than others - and there are even limits to what can be done with those lighter heads. So a well built custom set might require a bit more custom work from the builder to lighten up the heads.
  • produff26produff26 Members Posts: 29 ✭✭
    Im 6'6" and played +2"/ +2 degrees up for the longest time. A few years ago, I was in Maui and played the Plantation course with rented clubs. They were standard length and lie. Hit the ball as pure as I ever did. Fast forward a few years, I have settled on +1" /+2 degrees up on my irons and standard on my woods.
  • Smokey1226Smokey1226 Advanced Members Posts: 434 ✭✭
    I too was a victim (lol) of the “tall golfers need tall clubs” idea. Had a fitting a few years back, I’m 6’4”, and was fit into irons that were +1.5” x100 130g shafts. I always felt they were heavy and would be a pain to swing late in a round on a hot humid day.



    Went to a Titleist Thursday event last fall and the fitter tested me with the same combo in +.5”, +.75”, and +1” along with my +1.5”. I struck the center of the iron no matter the length and distance/flight was very similar so we agreed on +.75” for my irons. That might not sound like a huge difference over +1.5” but it’s been a night and day difference for me.
  • Rk5Rk5 Members Posts: 52 ✭✭
    I like this Idea, I'm 6 ft3 and play +0.5 in my irons. Biggest difference was in the shorter clubs. Your gapping is good but even if it wasn't could adjust lofts as needed.



    Unless you can get lighter "B" heads, the swingweights will always be getting up there.



    Lightest I could build was my MP60s at D4 with s300s and the extra 1/2 inch. Tried to build a set of 718CBs but they came out D5/D6 which was a bit heavy for me.
    Taylormade 2017 M1 9.5 Tensei Blue CK 60 Stiff
    Callaway XR 3 wood Project X LZ 6.0
    Titleist 917F2 18* Diamana S+ 70 stiff
    Titleist 816 H2 21* Fujikura Atmos Tour Spec HB 8S
    Mizuno MP-60 4-PW DG S300
    Vokey SM6 F Grind Steel Grey 52.08*
    Vokey SM6 M Grind Black 58.08*
    2012 Scotty Cameron Newport Select
  • KRW59KRW59 Hoarder Advanced Members Posts: 796 ✭✭
    edited March 13
    I have done a few over length builds (+1.0" to 1.5") for tall golfers . To get a

    swingweight in the lower D range ,I will remove (drill out) some material from the

    head below the hosel bore , (5 to 6 grams) and use Steelfiber i110 shafts .



    The Steelfibers have a high balance point , and will build to 3 to 4 points lower on the

    swingweight scale . The material removed from the heads another 2.5 to 3 points...



    As long as the static weight change , lighter head / lighter shaft dosen't mess

    up their timing , it is a viable option....Most have liked it....
    Cobra King F8 10.5* / Fuji Diamond Speeder 5-SR
    TEE EX10 Beta 16.5* / Fuji Platinum Speeder 5-SR
    TEE EX10 19* / Fuji Platinum Speeder 6-S
    TEE EX9 22* / Attas 4U 7-S.
    TEE EX9 25* / Attas 4U 7-X
    I have added about 10 grams of weight to all the fwy / hybrid
    shafts , using Sensicore inserts wrapped with lead tape.

    Cobra Forged Tec Black / 28* 6 iron thru 49.5* GW / 4.5* gapping
    Recoil 780 Es Smac wrap F3 / GW shaft internally weighted to 95 grams

    King Black Wedges / 54* versatile/ Recoil 95 F3 shaft weighted to 110 grams
    58* versatile / Recoil 110 F4 shaft weighted to 125 grams ( heat shrink tube )

    Piretti Savona 2 Elite《Murdered》or 1/1 GSS High Toe Potenza II

    Flask - Crown Black
  • uglandeuglande Advanced Members Posts: 98 ✭✭
    Stuart G. wrote:


    Well, it's not just about height - arm length needs to be considered as well. WTF (wrist to floor) It is generally considered a good starting place for the fitting process. But all results need to be verified dynamically.



    While it is very important to make sure the short irons and wedges do NOT get too short for the taller player, just because one needs the short irons and wedges to be longer doesn't mean they also need the length of the longer irons to increase just as much. There is no fixed rule saying the length increments between clubs has to be a full 1/2". In fact 3/8" increments is becoming a bit more popular suggestion around here - and not just for taller players. The longer irons can be troublesome for many am's even for std length sets.



    Just fit the lengths separately for the shortest iron and the longest iron you want to play. Then you can get a length increment by dividing the difference by the number of increments needed between them.



    Second, too heavy feeling is really a problem with the head weight and NOT the length. Proper fitting for length also means getting a proper fitting for shaft weight and swing weight - or really head weight - as well. All 3 of those specs have some inter-dependence - if one changes, the others might need to change as well. You can't look at one w/o also considering the others. This is why many attempts to lengthen a set have failed. One buys a used (or new) standard length set and tries to extend or convert it to a longer length but the head weights are too heavy for the longer lengths. Some companies make lighter heads for the sets that are custom ordered at the longer lengths - but some do a better job at that than others - and there are even limits to what can be done with those lighter heads. So a well built custom set might require a bit more custom work from the builder to lighten up the heads.




    I agree with all of that but most major manufacturers won't go to great lengths to adjust head weights, especially with irons. Mizuno has its "B" heads, and Ping can do some things with some of its models because of the inserts (iBlade, i200, etc.). But with others, the options are far more limited. I asked Titleist if they could adjust head weights for AP2 irons. Nope.
    Wood (08.5) TITLEIST TS3 - Diamana White 70X
    Wood (13.5) TITLEIST TS3 - Diamana White 80X
    Wood (21.0) TITLEIST TS2 - Diamana White 80X
    Iron (17.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - Diamana White 90X
    Iron (23.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (26.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (30.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (35.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (40.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (45.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Wedge (50.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-F - DGS200
    Wedge (54.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-S - DGS200
    Wedge (60.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-D - DGS200
    Putter TAYLORMADE Spider
  • mikewohlwendmikewohlwend ClubWRX Charter Members Posts: 276 ClubWRX
    edited March 13
    I am around 6'-5" and play a +1" and 2* flat with a Nippon NS Pro 980. Was fitted into X-Stiff at a local shop even though they don't offer the shaft in X. Haven't had my swing weight checked on any of my clubs though. Bought them straight from Srixon with stiff shafts.



    Wedges I play the same setup, but am getting fit at True Spec in a couple weeks. So I will see if there's any changes in a couple years.
  • uglandeuglande Advanced Members Posts: 98 ✭✭
    edited March 13
    I would challenge the traditionalists: go get two five irons — one standard and one +1 inch or more — and hit 20 balls with each. I’ll guarantee the standard version will perform better in terms of dispesion (naturally, it’s shorter), AND distance, because strikes will be more solid with the standard iron. Even if there’s a slight difference in distance it will be minuscule compared to the accuracy gains.
    Wood (08.5) TITLEIST TS3 - Diamana White 70X
    Wood (13.5) TITLEIST TS3 - Diamana White 80X
    Wood (21.0) TITLEIST TS2 - Diamana White 80X
    Iron (17.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - Diamana White 90X
    Iron (23.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (26.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (30.5) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (35.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (40.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Iron (45.0) TAYLORMADE P790 - PX 6.5
    Wedge (50.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-F - DGS200
    Wedge (54.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-S - DGS200
    Wedge (60.0) TITLEIST Vokey SM7-D - DGS200
    Putter TAYLORMADE Spider
  • ryborybo Advanced Members Posts: 2,211 ✭✭
    uglande wrote:


    I would challenge the traditionalists: go get two five irons — one standard and one +1 inch or more — and hit 20 balls with each. I’ll guarantee the standard version will perform better in terms of dispesion (naturally, it’s shorter), AND distance, because strikes will be more solid with the standard iron. Even if there’s a slight difference in distance it will be minuscule compared to the accuracy gains.




    Try that same experiment with PW’s or sand wedges. Only look at accuracy, any change to distance from the longer length will be so small to be inconsequential, if it occurs at all.



    Tall people need longer clubs, more specifically longer wedges for sure. 5 irons not so much. Your 1/4” build is a great way to do this. An X100/130 gram shaft is not a good approach, just too heavy.
  • hawk14shawhawk14shaw Advanced Members Posts: 114
    I'm only 6'2" and my last two fitters placed me plus 1". Did not hit either set well. Decided to have 1/2" cut off. Upon doing so swing weight was check and were D8 plus. Knew they swung heavy but did not realize swing weight to that high. Even after 1/2" reduction they still weigh in at D4. Hitting a lot better but still ordering another set at 1/2" over with requested D2 swing weight.
  • cardoustiecardoustie haha, we don't play for 5's Advanced Members Posts: 11,364 ✭✭
    I just did a post on this with my Rapture irons build .. almost the same but 3/8" gaps ... except 1/4" between 9 and PW



    I start w an overlength PW and work backwards



    I also did a big post a couple of years back about longer short irons for taller players ... especially if you have a wonky back



    I have always done my irons in progressive swing weights



    For me the added bonus is if you can get your longest iron to match the swingweight of your woods and hybrids
    Ping G400 LST 11* Mitsu TI BB Matte 53x
    Callaway GBB 3w 14* Mitsu Blueboard 63x
    Ping G400 5w 17* Fubuki Tour 73x
    Callaway V-series Hwood Fuji TS 8.2s
    Callaway Apex 4h 23* Fujikura 904HBs
    Ping Rapture 5-PW Aldila NV MLTi Pro105x
    Ping iWedge 50* Aldila NV 105x
    Ping Zing 2 BeCu s2 54.5* & s3 57.5*
    Piretti Matera Elite (torched)
  • Stuart G.Stuart G. Members, Advanced Members Posts: 22,640 ✭✭
    uglande wrote:


    I agree with all of that but most major manufacturers won't go to great lengths to adjust head weights, especially with irons. Mizuno has its "B" heads, and Ping can do some things with some of its models because of the inserts (iBlade, i200, etc.). But with others, the options are far more limited. I asked Titleist if they could adjust head weights for AP2 irons. Nope.




    Most OEM's have lighter weight heads for most models - even Titleist. But that only goes so far and you're correct in that the factories are comparatively very limited in what that can or will do for SW management compared to a custom builder (or tour van).
  • cardoustiecardoustie haha, we don't play for 5's Advanced Members Posts: 11,364 ✭✭
    search for PING LIE ANGLES QUERY
    Ping G400 LST 11* Mitsu TI BB Matte 53x
    Callaway GBB 3w 14* Mitsu Blueboard 63x
    Ping G400 5w 17* Fubuki Tour 73x
    Callaway V-series Hwood Fuji TS 8.2s
    Callaway Apex 4h 23* Fujikura 904HBs
    Ping Rapture 5-PW Aldila NV MLTi Pro105x
    Ping iWedge 50* Aldila NV 105x
    Ping Zing 2 BeCu s2 54.5* & s3 57.5*
    Piretti Matera Elite (torched)
  • cardoustiecardoustie haha, we don't play for 5's Advanced Members Posts: 11,364 ✭✭
    Ping G400 LST 11* Mitsu TI BB Matte 53x
    Callaway GBB 3w 14* Mitsu Blueboard 63x
    Ping G400 5w 17* Fubuki Tour 73x
    Callaway V-series Hwood Fuji TS 8.2s
    Callaway Apex 4h 23* Fujikura 904HBs
    Ping Rapture 5-PW Aldila NV MLTi Pro105x
    Ping iWedge 50* Aldila NV 105x
    Ping Zing 2 BeCu s2 54.5* & s3 57.5*
    Piretti Matera Elite (torched)
  • apexironmanapexironman Round Mountain, NVMembers Posts: 15 ✭✭
    edited March 14
    6' 3" height, adjusted wedges to +1 and then gapped .375. Working well so far in limited test rounds.
  • AmazinBlueAmazinBlue Advanced Members Posts: 1,094 ✭✭
    I’m 6’3” and I do a 3/8” gap with the people at 36 3/8” and add 3/8” going up to 5-iron at 38 1/4”. The wedges are all within a 1/4” of each other. The short irons from the 9-iron down are where tall golfers need the length. As stated above swingweights can be a big problem.
    Ping G400 Max 9* - 8* Tour 65 S 44.5"
    Ping G400 14.5* Tour 75 Stiff
    Callaway Apex Hybrid 20* PX LZ 75g Stiff
    Callaway Apex Hybrid 23* Kuro Kage 80 Hy stiff
    Taylormade P770 5-PW Nippon Modus3 120 S
    Vokey SM6 48* F Grind Steel Gray
    Vokey SM6 54*/08* M Grind Steel Gray
    Vokey SM7 58*/14* D Grind Tour Chrome
    TM Tour Spider Black 34.25" 2* flat 2x 14g weight
    Callaway ERC Soft
  • SixSixGolfSixSixGolf Advanced Members Posts: 382
    Stuart G. wrote:




    Most OEM's have lighter weight heads for most models - even Titleist.




    People repeat this all over this forum but it's just not true. OEM's have heavy heads on tour trucks but they dont make lighter heads. Mizuno has B weight heads but they're barely lighter.
  • Stuart G.Stuart G. Members, Advanced Members Posts: 22,640 ✭✭
    edited March 15
    SixSixGolf wrote:

    Stuart G. wrote:


    Most OEM's have lighter weight heads for most models - even Titleist.




    People repeat this all over this forum but it's just not true. OEM's have heavy heads on tour trucks but they dont make lighter heads. Mizuno has B weight heads but they're barely lighter.




    I've had a sets of both TM and Callaway iron heads in my hands and on my scale that came from over length builds - and that have been on the order of 10 gm lighter than "standard". That's not a case of manufacturing tolerance being off a bit or simple weight sorting. The most recent was a set of TM RSi 2's.



    The Team Titleist "Concierge's over on their forum frequently post that they have lighter weight iron heads as well.



    I haven't seen any information from any credible source confirming that they don't have any lighter heads available (except maybe just for some of the wedge specific models - but they are a lot easier to remove weight from than many of the CB iron models).



    But I like to stay open minded, if you've got a link, feel free to share it.
  • SixSixGolfSixSixGolf Advanced Members Posts: 382
    Stuart G. wrote:

    SixSixGolf wrote:

    Stuart G. wrote:


    Most OEM's have lighter weight heads for most models - even Titleist.




    People repeat this all over this forum but it's just not true. OEM's have heavy heads on tour trucks but they dont make lighter heads. Mizuno has B weight heads but they're barely lighter.




    I've had a sets of both TM and Callaway iron heads in my hands and on my scale that came from over length builds - and that have been on the order of 10 gm lighter than "standard". That's not a case of manufacturing tolerance being off a bit or simple weight sorting. The most recent was a set of TM RSi 2's.



    The Team Titleist "Concierge's over on their forum frequently post that they have lighter weight iron heads as well.



    I haven't seen any information from any credible source confirming that they don't have any lighter heads available (except maybe just for some of the wedge specific models - but they are a lot easier to remove weight from than many of the CB iron models).



    But I like to stay open minded, if you've got a link, feel free to share it.




    Every over length build I've ever seen comes in as standard head weights with no tip weights. Wedges especially will have ridiculously heavy swing weights if you order over length.
  • ryborybo Advanced Members Posts: 2,211 ✭✭
    Another solution is using single length heads in the short irons and wedges and standard heads in the long irons. Most single length heads weigh around 270g. Very easy to add tip weights for incremental length builds. It's never been easier to build overlength sets with normal or even low swing weights.
  • AmazinBlueAmazinBlue Advanced Members Posts: 1,094 ✭✭
    In my experience of ordering clubs longer than standard length and requesting lighter heads or specific swingweights, the response is generally the same, "companies don't guarantee sweingweight requests" and "we can ask but rarely do companies have lighter heads". I have ordered Vokey wedges at D5 in a +1.0" or +1.5" length and I get the club at D6 and only +3/4". When I spend $150 oin a wedge I hate the idea of drilling hoiles in it to reduce the weight or grinding the sole away to get the weight down.



    Custom fitting is here to stay and the OEMs resisted going the extra mile for customers for a long time. I think they need to cater to the ones paying the bills and not just the guys getting all their stuff for free.
    Ping G400 Max 9* - 8* Tour 65 S 44.5"
    Ping G400 14.5* Tour 75 Stiff
    Callaway Apex Hybrid 20* PX LZ 75g Stiff
    Callaway Apex Hybrid 23* Kuro Kage 80 Hy stiff
    Taylormade P770 5-PW Nippon Modus3 120 S
    Vokey SM6 48* F Grind Steel Gray
    Vokey SM6 54*/08* M Grind Steel Gray
    Vokey SM7 58*/14* D Grind Tour Chrome
    TM Tour Spider Black 34.25" 2* flat 2x 14g weight
    Callaway ERC Soft
  • duck hookduck hook Advanced Members Posts: 1,092 ✭✭
    Tony Finau is 6’5” and plays + 3/8”

    Long
  • Stephen1125Stephen1125 Advanced Members Posts: 409
    I'm 6'7" and after a few professional fittings, anywhere from +1/2” to +2", I finally settled myself on +1" 5 iron and 3/8” gapping between clubs. I did a lot of reading from Tom Wishom and that helped me build that set. I hit the ball great in this makeup and play +2° lie.



    I've found that I always flush my 5-iron and 9-iron so now I'm working on building my set to be MOI matched and see how that goes.
  • Howard JonesHoward Jones Advanced Members Posts: 8,412 ✭✭
    edited March 15
    uglande wrote:

    Stuart G. wrote:


    Well, it's not just about height - arm length needs to be considered as well. WTF (wrist to floor) It is generally considered a good starting place for the fitting process. But all results need to be verified dynamically.



    While it is very important to make sure the short irons and wedges do NOT get too short for the taller player, just because one needs the short irons and wedges to be longer doesn't mean they also need the length of the longer irons to increase just as much. There is no fixed rule saying the length increments between clubs has to be a full 1/2". In fact 3/8" increments is becoming a bit more popular suggestion around here - and not just for taller players. The longer irons can be troublesome for many am's even for std length sets.



    Just fit the lengths separately for the shortest iron and the longest iron you want to play. Then you can get a length increment by dividing the difference by the number of increments needed between them.



    Second, too heavy feeling is really a problem with the head weight and NOT the length. Proper fitting for length also means getting a proper fitting for shaft weight and swing weight - or really head weight - as well. All 3 of those specs have some inter-dependence - if one changes, the others might need to change as well. You can't look at one w/o also considering the others. This is why many attempts to lengthen a set have failed. One buys a used (or new) standard length set and tries to extend or convert it to a longer length but the head weights are too heavy for the longer lengths. Some companies make lighter heads for the sets that are custom ordered at the longer lengths - but some do a better job at that than others - and there are even limits to what can be done with those lighter heads. So a well built custom set might require a bit more custom work from the builder to lighten up the heads.




    I agree with all of that but most major manufacturers won't go to great lengths to adjust head weights, especially with irons. Mizuno has its "B" heads, and Ping can do some things with some of its models because of the inserts (iBlade, i200, etc.). But with others, the options are far more limited. I asked Titleist if they could adjust head weights for AP2 irons. Nope.




    Stuart is right, and about OEMs, for those of you a bit handy, but not skilled enough to build a set from the bottom, if you plan it all good, you can get what ever you want from OEMs .....but it needs some planning and work before we can put them to playq, but that is not more advanced than most can do without much handy man skills at all (steel shafts and pipe cutters, Graphite needs a steady hand and the right tool, but steel shafts is easy with pipe cutters, we cant do it wrong)



    First DOWNLOAD this Excel VBA APP to help out with composing the set.

    its METRIC and we use the #8 iron as stating point since thats a short end club of highly importance

    scroll down to USER MANUAL - its EASY to use...

    http://www.golfwrx.c...-excel-vba-app/





    My suggestion is, if you normally play 0.5" or 0.75" above standard, then use that play length for the #8 iron.

    Now you can decide what play length difference you wants between the irons, and you can choose what ever value between 12.7 mm (4/8") and down to 0 as you like, and you can choose resistance slope as you like, not only classic flat SW or Poor mans MOI match using 1.33 SWP pr inch, but you can choose any progression factor between 0 and 1.33 SWP pr inch as you like.



    The app shows both play lengths and needed head weight adjustments as you play around with the numbers.

    The IDEAL is to get a fitting where we build the longest and the shortest club to full swing and simply draw a slope between those to points on all specs, but we hardly ever get that chance, but if there is a set we modify (shorter), DONT just jump into it and cut, but use the "tape on the grip method" and "tape down play length" and try it off, and take notes of what values that seems to work for that club.



    IF we lower our hands 0.5" inch, or if we actually cut down 0.5" inch, the feel we get of SW and and head weight is similar, so 0.5 shorter is 3SWP lower...just take notes, test a different value for both play length and SW, and you will find out how to modify your old #3 iron to perform to its best, and then you know where to go with the others if the #8 iron is done already.





    How to use OEMs on sets like this...-.

    MIZUNO and many others offers clubs with grips loose in the box, so just make a order where over length is equal to the longest clubs in the set (vs standard) and do the math for is using standard head weight on THAT club will get it to your target without head weight reduction.



    Lets say the longest club vs standard is the #9 iron of plus 0.5" where YOUR SW target is D4

    If the standard SW value is D1 we knows that adding 0.5" would bring SW on that standard #9 iron to be D4



    Then we dont need a special weight sorting on the heads, so all you have to do is order the set to plus 0.5" and when it comes, butt cut and adjust head weight and then add grips. This way we can use OEMs and still get the specs we want, but do Loft and lie before balance.....
  • Howard JonesHoward Jones Advanced Members Posts: 8,412 ✭✭
    edited March 15
    rybo wrote:


    Another solution is using single length heads in the short irons and wedges and standard heads in the long irons. Most single length heads weigh around 270g. Very easy to add tip weights for incremental length builds. It's never been easier to build overlengh sets with normal or even low swing weights.




    We can go both ways, if we use heads from Tom Wishon or Swing Science that has a weight port below the shaft, those heads can be raised up to 18-19 grams in most cases, so we should do the math and see what head weights our plans needs, and we can make it one way or the other.



    This is some standard Head wgts from Wishon, where ive added 18 to see where we can move them Up TO when we go shorter in the long end. We can get a #3 iron head 2-3 grams below a std #6 iron, and thats "3 clubs shorter" or we can go almost 1.5" inch shorter and keep the SW value close (3 grams would be about 1.5 SWP below standard value if we took it all out and cut down to minus 1.5" on the #3 iron, so D0.5 is possible if D2 is standard")



    Specs for Wishon 575 standard vs added up to 18 grams to see the max we can go without tungsten powder.



  • ryborybo Advanced Members Posts: 2,211 ✭✭
    duck hook wrote:


    Tony Finau is 6’5” and plays + 3/8”

    Long




    Finau is at best 6' 4" and plays his irons at +5/8". His 3 iron is +3/8" and his 50* wedge is +1/4". All listed on Ping's website.



    His very short swing dictates his set up.
  • ryborybo Advanced Members Posts: 2,211 ✭✭

    rybo wrote:


    Another solution is using single length heads in the short irons and wedges and standard heads in the long irons. Most single length heads weigh around 270g. Very easy to add tip weights for incremental length builds. It's never been easier to build overlengh sets with normal or even low swing weights.




    We can go both ways, if we use heads from Tom Wishon or Swing Science that has a weight port below the shaft, those heads can be raised up to 18-19 grams in most cases, so we should do the math and see what head weights our plans needs, and we can make it one way or the other.



    This is some standard Head wgts from Wishon, where ive added 18 to see where we can move them Up TO when we go shorter in the long end. We can get a #3 iron head 2-3 grams below a std #6 iron, and thats "3 clubs shorter" or we can go almost 1.5" inch shorter and keep the SW value close (3 grams would be about 1.5 SWP below standard value if we took it all out and cut down to minus 1.5" on the #3 iron, so D0.5 is possible if D2 is standard")



    Specs for Wishon 575 standard vs added up to 18 grams to see the max we can go without tungsten powder.







    Try finding a lob wedge or sand wedge from Wishon or Swing Science that weighs 270g. I am referring to making these clubs 36 3/4" and longer so they actually fit tall players. I am not worried about the long irons, just about any reasonable length can be to work since the head weight is low enough to adjust accordingly. It's wedges and short irons where the problem of the sledgehammer effect occurs.
  • Howard JonesHoward Jones Advanced Members Posts: 8,412 ✭✭
    rybo wrote:


    rybo wrote:


    Another solution is using single length heads in the short irons and wedges and standard heads in the long irons. Most single length heads weigh around 270g. Very easy to add tip weights for incremental length builds. It's never been easier to build overlengh sets with normal or even low swing weights.




    We can go both ways, if we use heads from Tom Wishon or Swing Science that has a weight port below the shaft, those heads can be raised up to 18-19 grams in most cases, so we should do the math and see what head weights our plans needs, and we can make it one way or the other.



    This is some standard Head wgts from Wishon, where ive added 18 to see where we can move them Up TO when we go shorter in the long end. We can get a #3 iron head 2-3 grams below a std #6 iron, and thats "3 clubs shorter" or we can go almost 1.5" inch shorter and keep the SW value close (3 grams would be about 1.5 SWP below standard value if we took it all out and cut down to minus 1.5" on the #3 iron, so D0.5 is possible if D2 is standard")



    Specs for Wishon 575 standard vs added up to 18 grams to see the max we can go without tungsten powder.







    Try finding a lob wedge or sand wedge from Wishon or Swing Science that weighs 270g. I am referring to making these clubs 36 3/4" and longer so they actually fit tall players. I am not worried about the long irons, just about any reasonable length can be to work since the head weight is low enough to adjust accordingly. It's wedges and short irons where the problem of the sledgehammer effect occurs.




    Thats WAY harder....but it can be done

    Thomas Rosenberg in Copenhagen say he modifies Wishon #9 iron heads down to 266 grams with hosel mods only, so if he started from 281 like the chart above and down to 266, thats 25 grams down....but all the way, YES if the wedge has long enough hosel and a very high BBGM we take down to the max and play it with a short hosel, almost bore trough, that can be done from a start weight of 300 plus.



    Another way to get there if we dont want that large hosel mod, we can strip chrome plating and give them a grinding job, so one way or another....steel is 7.8 grams pr CCM3, so take BBGM, and the diameter of that part, and do the math to see how much weight there might be, like you removed that part, but keep insert like it is, then you get the picture of how long we can go, so we dont need to try it to do the numbers.
  • SixSixGolfSixSixGolf Advanced Members Posts: 382
    AmazinBlue wrote:


    In my experience of ordering clubs longer than standard length and requesting lighter heads or specific swingweights, the response is generally the same, "companies don't guarantee sweingweight requests" and "we can ask but rarely do companies have lighter heads". I have ordered Vokey wedges at D5 in a +1.0" or +1.5" length and I get the club at D6 and only +3/4".




    This is my experience as well.
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