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Re-gripping with solvents


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Hi Forum,

 

Thought I’d share my experience/experiment with you and leave myself open for ridicule ?

 

I’m a casual golfer, play rarely and my 7year old irons were in need of re-gripping.

 

Managed to strip the grips and old tape no problem.

Trying to get the new grips on though, is a different story!

I must have spent £30 in grips and more in solvents, tapes, vice-grippers, etc...and each grip has got stuck half way. I’ve soaked the tape, soaked and left it, soaked and raced it, but always the same.

 

So, I’ve turned to wd40! As a result I now have completely regripped all the irons.

 

I’ve read the internet views on whether this is madness, genius, or just normal.

In 24hours, I’ll let you know where I stand.

 

But I’d love some views on this!!

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I have never had major problems with solvent. If I have trouble with it sticking as I first put it on I remove immediately so that it does not get stuck. I then double amount of solvent and retry. If still a problem more solvent. It can get messy but I like the grips to slide on easily and also allow time for slight straightening if required.

I will be interested in your results with WD40.

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been re-gripping with air compressor and mineral spirits for a long time now - zero issues. lighter fluid works, so i've heard. just haven't tried it.

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> @Yanki01 said:

> been re-gripping with air compressor and mineral spirits for a long time now - zero issues. lighter fluid works, so i've heard. just haven't tried it.

 

I've always used camp fuel, which I'm pretty sure is a blend of kerosene and some other lighter fluids, just because that's what my dad did.

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Many times, you just need more solvent. When I dont use enough, it gets real tough to get the grip on. When I use a lot of solvent, grips slide on like nobody's business.

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I had trouble with leather grips getting stuck... heating up the grips and more solvent worked for me

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WD40 will work but there are better options. The petroleum distillates in WD40 are a trade secret. Anytime you mix several petroleum distillate products, it will only evaporate as fast as the slowest drying solvent in the mixture. When I regrip my clubs I usually use alcohol to get the final glue residue off of the shaft, then blue tape, paint thinner and an air compressor.

There's lots of ways to skin this cat.

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Thank for the comments ?

20 years ago I worked in a golf shop and used to grip shafts on a daily basis...so I thought this’d be a doddle!

I tape up the shaft then put the taped shaft into a bottle of solvent, then fill the grip 100% full with solvent. Then pour the contents of the grip over the taped shaft that’s now out of its solvent soak, then push the grip onto the shaft. Each time the grip would stick about half way down. I’m not sure how I could have got it wetter ! Lol

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Only solvent I've ever had issues with is the Golfworks stuff. That's using a couple extra layers of build up tape though. I switched to Brampton HF 100 and it's far superior as far as ease of use. It does seem to be slower to dry than the Golfworks solvent however. Also... the act of sliding the tip of the grip over the butt end of the shaft and then moving it down the shaft needs to almost be one motion. That's my experience at least. You run in to trouble typically when you get the tip on the shaft, then pause. Move your hands back toward the fat end of the grip as you're sliding it on as well.

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Bad solvent will do that, I spray with WD 40 because I believe the latest solvent I bought from the store is not very good.

 
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WD-40 has oil in it. Not an ideal solution to apply on top of an adhesive.

 

We have had many different threads here where people complain about difficulty in installing grips and the problem comes down to a few possible things: use of modern "green" mineral spirits (which suck), not enough solvent (both the inside of the grip and the grip tape must be wetted down), or a bad batch of tape. An air compressor is great to have handy if a grip gets stuck; a quick blip of air in the grip cap will loosen it up and allow pushing the grip on the rest of the way. Personally, I greatly prefer Bramptons HF100. The grip slides easily and it doesn't stink. I use a spray pump bottle and use a few shots inside the grip and then a few mist shots over the tape. Works great.

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> @Nessism said:

> WD-40 has oil in it. Not an ideal solution to apply on top of an adhesive.

>

> We have had many different threads here where people complain about difficulty in installing grips and the problem comes down to a few possible things: use of modern "green" mineral spirits (which suck), not enough solvent (both the inside of the grip and the grip tape must be wetted down), or a bad batch of tape. An air compressor is great to have handy if a grip gets stuck; a quick blip of air in the grip cap will loosen it up and allow pushing the grip on the rest of the way. Personally, I greatly prefer Bramptons HF100. The grip slides easily and it doesn't stink. I use a spray pump bottle and use a few shots inside the grip and then a few mist shots over the tape. Works great.

 

Yea I wouldn’t think WD-40 would be the best grip solvent. I don’t see a lubricant evaporating much to form that great of a bond. I have used odorless mineral spirits and paint thinner (mineral spirits with odor) for years with no issues. If it’s not going on there’s something else your doing wrong.

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Any time the grip is getting stuck half way on its simply a case of not having enough mineral spirits in the grip and on the tape. I hold my finger over the hole in the bottom of the grip and squirt in a good amount of fluid. I guess it's about 1/4 full at the most. I shake the grip up and down coating the inside of the grip. Then I take my finger off the bottom and let the solvent coat the tape and before it's all out of the grip I slip on the grip. This is all done in as quick a fashion as I can with out being a desperate rush. Tape that is dripping wet is just right.

 

A Winn grip or a thick putter grip like a Super Stroke always needs more solvent. As they are notoriously stuck halfway without a lot of solvent.

 

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You could alway post a video of your method to get advice on where you are going wrong. Although it’s a straightforward and easy proces to many people there are many ways to go wrong.

 

I would never consider WD40 because it will not fully dry. Mineral spirits, alcohol and lighter fluid all have 2 properties. They wet the adhesive on the tape and then they evaporate quickly. To my knowledge WD40 doesn’t evaporate quickly. Although you go your grips on the clubs, they might slip due to the remaining solvent on them.

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Stretch out the mouth of the grip. I use the tip of a larger funnel to loosen it up for a few seconds before sliding on the grip and it does help. Even though most graphite shafts for irons are .600" butt now, a lot of grips are still .580". This wasn't much of an issue with the old rubber grips, but the newer compounds are stiffer when new and give me trouble.

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I've always used grip solvents (never flammable liquids) and have gripped 25 years worth of clubs with no issues. Until.....Lamkin Z5 grips. For some reason these all wanted to get stuck halfway and I really had to use a lot of solvent. Are they these by chance? I think the design of some of these new grips creates sticking points at the butt of the shaft. At any rate, I think more solvent (the kind specially intended for the job IMO) is the best answer.

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I used lighter fluid from the hardware store for years (80's to early 00). Have to make sure ALL the tape is wetted. A small dry patch on the underside of the shaft can cause issues. Move to air and soap solution about 5-6 yrs ago and haven't looked back. Soap solution is simply a capful of Dawn in a 1 qt spray bottle. Blue painters tape to the proper diameter, shoot about 15 squirts of the solution in the grip (while covering the hole in the cap), slosh it around in the grip thoroughly, pour it out and slide on with a few bursts from the compressor. wipe up with a shop rag. No mess at all and nothing flammable.

 

BT

 

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> @ultimatelightweight said:

> Thank for the comments ?

> 20 years ago I worked in a golf shop and used to grip shafts on a daily basis...so I thought this’d be a doddle!

> I tape up the shaft then put the taped shaft into a bottle of solvent, then fill the grip 100% full with solvent. Then pour the contents of the grip over the taped shaft that’s now out of its solvent soak, then push the grip onto the shaft. Each time the grip would stick about half way down. I’m not sure how I could have got it wetter ! Lol

 

Three things that can go wrong. There are some environmentally friendly "solvents" that do not work well with reripping. And quite often, people don't realize that the butt end of the shaft can have very sharp edges to them. As you push on the grip, the grip pushes through the tape and binds on the edges. Doesn't matter how much solvent is used. Also you might have water solvent tape and using petroleum based solvents will not work with that tape.

 

First make sure you aren't using "green solvent" and then make sure the edges are smooth. If that fails, you might have to admit you are 'challenged' by your advanced age and pay someone to do it. ;)

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So we’re near 24 hours on and I’ve just checked the grips and they’re stuck solid. Couldn’t twist or slide them a mil. So seems like the experiment has worked so far.

I won’t get a chance to hit any balls for a good couple of weeks, so that’ll be the real test.

 

Thanks to all who commented...I was expecting at least one thumbs up for wd40 though lol

 

I have a wedge and a spare grip, so I may have a go again, and apply some of the tips from this discussion.

 

Just in case anyone’s wondering, they were GolfPride MCC midsize grips, and I had the tape absolutely soaking, with the grip completely full of solvent too, that was then poured over the already soaking grip.

 

And perhaps I’m not as strong at 37 than I was at 17?! Lol

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Glad it worked out OP. Try odorless mineral spirits or the Brampton that Ness suggested. Ive had great success with both.

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> @ultimatelightweight said:

> So we’re near 24 hours on and I’ve just checked the grips and they’re stuck solid. Couldn’t twist or slide them a mil. So seems like the experiment has worked so far.

> I won’t get a chance to hit any balls for a good couple of weeks, so that’ll be the real test.

>

> Thanks to all who commented...I was expecting at least one thumbs up for wd40 though lol

>

> I have a wedge and a spare grip, so I may have a go again, and apply some of the tips from this discussion.

>

> Just in case anyone’s wondering, they were GolfPride MCC midsize grips, and I had the tape absolutely soaking, **with the grip completely full of solvent** too, that was then poured over the already soaking grip.

>

> And perhaps I’m not as strong at 37 than I was at 17?! Lol

 

filling the grip completely shouldn't be necessary. I fill my grip up probably about 1/8 of the way or so while plugging the butt end. then plug the front also and move the solvent around so the inside of the grip is wet. then pour it onto the tape waiting no more than 5 seconds to push/air it onto the shaft. I would think filling the grip 100% would be overkill.

 

if i'm doing a set of grips - i'll vice clamp a paint tray under the grip to catch the solvent leftover from the pours.

 

 

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> @"Mario Good Times" said:

> Anyone works except the golf works solvent. Two years ago they did something that it just doesnt allow the grips to slip on properly

 

That’s interesting, I think the grip tape I was using was golfworks, but I’d have to go and check.

Wonder if it’s possible that the grip tape is somehow too sticky somehow.

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Are you actually using solvent or one of the new environmentally friendly products. In the UK White Spirit will work every time, whilst most versions of clean spirt (low odour alternative) does not activate the tape properly. Pour a little of whatever you are using on the tape and make sure the adhesive becomes very slippery. Bramptons produce a re-gripping solvent which is even better than white spirit

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