Shortening +1 irons

 Natale29 ·  
Natale29Natale29 Members  9WRX Points: 7Posts: 9 Bunkers
Joined:  in WRX Club Techs #1

Have had my irons (titleist 714 cb) for almost 5 years now. Im 6’4 and have always used +1 irons since high school. As ive gotten better over the last few years, the only part of my game that doesnt seem to improve a lot is my long irons, and im wondering if the length of my irons is to cause. I understand what happens when you shorten an iron, but i never hear of anyone talk about shortening irons that are above standard length. I would consider cutting mine down to +1/2 inch. I would most likely cut all the irons so there arent any weird length switches between each iron. What would be the pros/cons of doing this/ how can i test if it would actually benefit me? I would love to go out and get fitted for a new set, but my budget wouldnt allow that currently.

Posted:
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  • jvincentjvincent Members  1396WRX Points: 717Posts: 1,396 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #2

    If you want to test it first, put some tape on all the grips so that you grip down by 1/2" or 1".

    If it works out for you just take the grips off, cut the butt end of the shaft, and put new grips on. The swingweight will be lighter, but the grip down experiment will test that.

    Posted:

    Cobra SZ 9* : Tour AD TP 7-S
    Cobra F6 Baffler set at 16* : Tour AD TP 8-S
    Cobra 3U set at 18* : Nippon Modus3 120-S
    Srixon Z785 4-PW : Nippon Modus3 120-S
    Cleveland RTX3 50, 54, 58 : Nippon 115-S Wedge
    Piretti Potenza 370g : Breakthrough Technology Stability Shaft - 34"

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  • Natale29Natale29 Members  9WRX Points: 7Posts: 9 Bunkers
    Joined:  #3

    On -, @jvincent said:

    If you want to test it first, put some tape on all the grips so that you grip down by 1/2" or 1".

    If it works out for you just take the grips off, cut the butt end of the shaft, and put new grips on. The swingweight will be lighter, but the grip down experiment will test that.

    Ill give that a try for sure. If the original swing weight of the irons was d2 at stock length, would the current swing weight be more around d4 or higher? Just trying to understand swing weight in relation to length just a bit more.

    Posted:
  • jvincentjvincent Members  1396WRX Points: 717Posts: 1,396 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #4

    At +1" you'd actually be at D8 unless they did something to adjust it.

    Posted:

    Cobra SZ 9* : Tour AD TP 7-S
    Cobra F6 Baffler set at 16* : Tour AD TP 8-S
    Cobra 3U set at 18* : Nippon Modus3 120-S
    Srixon Z785 4-PW : Nippon Modus3 120-S
    Cleveland RTX3 50, 54, 58 : Nippon 115-S Wedge
    Piretti Potenza 370g : Breakthrough Technology Stability Shaft - 34"

  • Natale29Natale29 Members  9WRX Points: 7Posts: 9 Bunkers
    Joined:  #5

    On -, @jvincent said:

    At +1" you'd actually be at D8 unless they did something to adjust it.

    No adjustments, just the extra inch, so then id imagine you are correct. I do enjoy a heavier feel, but now i think, it might be affecting my long irons in a negative way. Im going to schedule a fitting sometime soon and see what we conclude. As long as i remember, ill post the changes made here.

    Posted:
  • Howard_JonesHoward_Jones Members  10610WRX Points: 1,636Posts: 10,610 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  #6

    On -, @Natale29 said:

    Have had my irons (titleist 714 cb) for almost 5 years now. Im 6’4 and have always used +1 irons since high school. As ive gotten better over the last few years, the only part of my game that doesnt seem to improve a lot is my long irons, and im wondering if the length of my irons is to cause. I understand what happens when you shorten an iron, but i never hear of anyone talk about shortening irons that are above standard length. I would consider cutting mine down to +1/2 inch. I would most likely cut all the irons so there arent any weird length switches between each iron. What would be the pros/cons of doing this/ how can i test if it would actually benefit me? I would love to go out and get fitted for a new set, but my budget wouldnt allow that currently.

    Players who needs longer clubs than standard, meet that need in the short end of the set, NOT the long end, so if you actually fit to play plus 1.0" on the short end, going down 0.5" on them all want be the solution you might think it is, but dont worry, your starting point is very good to make a set that works from the longest to the shortest.

    The solution for you is to go 3/8" between clubs, or use METRIC and use what ever length progression you want. This way we can make both the long, mid and short end to fit your needs, and while we are at it, a resistance progression that works better than flat SW match does.

    If we start out from your #9 iron, and leave it as it is (assuming it works like it should), we now draw a slope from that iron to the longest, using 3/8 (or a another number, imperial or metric), and for the sake of example im using 3/8" to visualize what will happen to the rest of your set. (iron # - vs standard)

    9 = plus 8/8"

    8 = plus 7/8"

    7 = plus 6/8"

    6 = plus 5/8"

    5 = plus 4/8" (or like you suggested for them all)

    4 = plus 3/8"

    3 = plus 2/8"

    Sets like this is often build to a progressive SW slope with 0.5 SWP UP as we go shorter (or down as we go longer), and when we cut them shorter like this, we loose a bit more feel of head weight than wanted, but it only takes a few grams to get back on a progressive slope like this who makes them close to actual flat MOI. Thats a better system if we use the same power on all clubs, but if the SW system is grooved into your body, a little actual resistance progression as we go longer is better.

    The FLAT SW system we are used to does NOT make clubs "equal", but gives them a slightly higher resistance as they go longer, but that system is NOT ideal for everyone, so flat SW or flat MOI is in both ends of that scale, but we have 12 options in-between to make it all "perfect" in our hands.

    If you are familiar with Excel, you can download a small app ive made who helps out with ALL numbers, and options, so you can play around with different play length progression or resistance progression as you want, and the page return the values needed to get there (added head weight etc).

    i strongly suggest you take a look at it, and just ask whatever question you might have, i know this must be new to you, and it might give you a head ace before you get the picture, but trust me, This is the way you should go, so its all about finding the play length for the longest and the shortest that both fits you, and the others on a slope between them. its simple stuff really, but might be a head twister the first time you read about it, but this is a trend in custom irons thats been around for some years now, and all those players who went this way will not look back.

    https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1751610/metric-irons-excel-vba-app/p1

    Posted:

    PLEASE DO NOT SEND ME PMs ON CLUB TECH ISSUES - ASK PUBLIC IN THE FORUM.

    Unless you are a former Customer or someone i already have a PM dialog with, i want reply to tech questions on PMs.

  • Natale29Natale29 Members  9WRX Points: 7Posts: 9 Bunkers
    Joined:  #7

    On -, @Howard Jones said:

    On -, @Natale29 said:

    Have had my irons (titleist 714 cb) for almost 5 years now. Im 6’4 and have always used +1 irons since high school. As ive gotten better over the last few years, the only part of my game that doesnt seem to improve a lot is my long irons, and im wondering if the length of my irons is to cause. I understand what happens when you shorten an iron, but i never hear of anyone talk about shortening irons that are above standard length. I would consider cutting mine down to +1/2 inch. I would most likely cut all the irons so there arent any weird length switches between each iron. What would be the pros/cons of doing this/ how can i test if it would actually benefit me? I would love to go out and get fitted for a new set, but my budget wouldnt allow that currently.

    Players who needs longer clubs than standard, meet that need in the short end of the set, NOT the long end, so if you actually fit to play plus 1.0" on the short end, going down 0.5" on them all want be the solution you might think it is, but dont worry, your starting point is very good to make a set that works from the longest to the shortest.

    The solution for you is to go 3/8" between clubs, or use METRIC and use what ever length progression you want. This way we can make both the long, mid and short end to fit your needs, and while we are at it, a resistance progression that works better than flat SW match does.

    If we start out from your #9 iron, and leave it as it is (assuming it works like it should), we now draw a slope from that iron to the longest, using 3/8 (or a another number, imperial or metric), and for the sake of example im using 3/8" to visualize what will happen to the rest of your set. (iron # - vs standard)

    9 = plus 8/8"

    8 = plus 7/8"

    7 = plus 6/8"

    6 = plus 5/8"

    5 = plus 4/8" (or like you suggested for them all)

    4 = plus 3/8"

    3 = plus 2/8"

    Sets like this is often build to a progressive SW slope with 0.5 SWP UP as we go shorter (or down as we go longer), and when we cut them shorter like this, we loose a bit more feel of head weight than wanted, but it only takes a few grams to get back on a progressive slope like this who makes them close to actual flat MOI. Thats a better system if we use the same power on all clubs, but if the SW system is grooved into your body, a little actual resistance progression as we go longer is better.

    The FLAT SW system we are used to does NOT make clubs "equal", but gives them a slightly higher resistance as they go longer, but that system is NOT ideal for everyone, so flat SW or flat MOI is in both ends of that scale, but we have 12 options in-between to make it all "perfect" in our hands.

    If you are familiar with Excel, you can download a small app ive made who helps out with ALL numbers, and options, so you can play around with different play length progression or resistance progression as you want, and the page return the values needed to get there (added head weight etc).

    i strongly suggest you take a look at it, and just ask whatever question you might have, i know this must be new to you, and it might give you a head ace before you get the picture, but trust me, This is the way you should go, so its all about finding the play length for the longest and the shortest that both fits you, and the others on a slope between them. its simple stuff really, but might be a head twister the first time you read about it, but this is a trend in custom irons thats been around for some years now, and all those players who went this way will not look back.

    https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1751610/metric-irons-excel-vba-app/p1

    I think i understand what you are saying. Are you trying to suggest that from the 9 iron down, each clubs length gets gradually shorter in comparison to the previous clubs length? So if my 9 is 30 inches (just using a simple round number for example) my 8 would be 30 7/8 inch, 7 would be 31 5/8, 6 would be 32 2/8 and so forth? Essentially the longer the club, the closer in length it is to the previous club in the bag?

    Posted:
  • GolfWRXGolfWRX Warning Points: 0  11 Members Posts: 11 #ad
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  • Howard_JonesHoward_Jones Members  10610WRX Points: 1,636Posts: 10,610 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  #8

    On -, @Natale29 said:

    On -, @Howard Jones said:

    On -, @Natale29 said:

    Have had my irons (titleist 714 cb) for almost 5 years now. Im 6’4 and have always used +1 irons since high school. As ive gotten better over the last few years, the only part of my game that doesnt seem to improve a lot is my long irons, and im wondering if the length of my irons is to cause. I understand what happens when you shorten an iron, but i never hear of anyone talk about shortening irons that are above standard length. I would consider cutting mine down to +1/2 inch. I would most likely cut all the irons so there arent any weird length switches between each iron. What would be the pros/cons of doing this/ how can i test if it would actually benefit me? I would love to go out and get fitted for a new set, but my budget wouldnt allow that currently.

    Players who needs longer clubs than standard, meet that need in the short end of the set, NOT the long end, so if you actually fit to play plus 1.0" on the short end, going down 0.5" on them all want be the solution you might think it is, but dont worry, your starting point is very good to make a set that works from the longest to the shortest.

    The solution for you is to go 3/8" between clubs, or use METRIC and use what ever length progression you want. This way we can make both the long, mid and short end to fit your needs, and while we are at it, a resistance progression that works better than flat SW match does.

    If we start out from your #9 iron, and leave it as it is (assuming it works like it should), we now draw a slope from that iron to the longest, using 3/8 (or a another number, imperial or metric), and for the sake of example im using 3/8" to visualize what will happen to the rest of your set. (iron # - vs standard)

    9 = plus 8/8"

    8 = plus 7/8"

    7 = plus 6/8"

    6 = plus 5/8"

    5 = plus 4/8" (or like you suggested for them all)

    4 = plus 3/8"

    3 = plus 2/8"

    Sets like this is often build to a progressive SW slope with 0.5 SWP UP as we go shorter (or down as we go longer), and when we cut them shorter like this, we loose a bit more feel of head weight than wanted, but it only takes a few grams to get back on a progressive slope like this who makes them close to actual flat MOI. Thats a better system if we use the same power on all clubs, but if the SW system is grooved into your body, a little actual resistance progression as we go longer is better.

    The FLAT SW system we are used to does NOT make clubs "equal", but gives them a slightly higher resistance as they go longer, but that system is NOT ideal for everyone, so flat SW or flat MOI is in both ends of that scale, but we have 12 options in-between to make it all "perfect" in our hands.

    If you are familiar with Excel, you can download a small app ive made who helps out with ALL numbers, and options, so you can play around with different play length progression or resistance progression as you want, and the page return the values needed to get there (added head weight etc).

    i strongly suggest you take a look at it, and just ask whatever question you might have, i know this must be new to you, and it might give you a head ace before you get the picture, but trust me, This is the way you should go, so its all about finding the play length for the longest and the shortest that both fits you, and the others on a slope between them. its simple stuff really, but might be a head twister the first time you read about it, but this is a trend in custom irons thats been around for some years now, and all those players who went this way will not look back.

    https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1751610/metric-irons-excel-vba-app/p1

    I think i understand what you are saying. Are you trying to suggest that from the 9 iron down, each clubs length gets gradually shorter in comparison to the previous clubs length? So if my 9 is 30 inches (just using a simple round number for example) my 8 would be 30 7/8 inch, 7 would be 31 5/8, 6 would be 32 2/8 and so forth? Essentially the longer the club, the closer in length it is to the previous club in the bag?

    This is what i suggest

    Posted:

    PLEASE DO NOT SEND ME PMs ON CLUB TECH ISSUES - ASK PUBLIC IN THE FORUM.

    Unless you are a former Customer or someone i already have a PM dialog with, i want reply to tech questions on PMs.

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