mini driver vs big driver

After having some struggles with the big stick, I recently resurrected my 2014 SLDR mini driver 14*. Hitting it pretty long with a high draw. Have tried various combos of shafts and heads with the drivers that I own (Titleist 910D2 and 917D2), and I can't knock the SLDR out of the bag. I guess you can't argue with results, but I really want to hit a 'real' driver. Anyone else have this problem? Just to tempting to flail away with the big club.

This has been discussed many times. If you actually hit the "mini" better (i.e. more consistent center face contact), then the general recommendation has been to try a normal driver with a shorter shaft and/or more loft.

It's pretty abnormal not to have a driver in the bag but if you are significantly better with the SLDR, it may be a viable alternative. But it would have to be a huge improvement.

If I were shortening a driver by a couple inches and increasing the loft by 3-4 degrees I'd expect to lose 15 yards, maybe more. That could affect the quality of approach shots. If you're talking about adding 1.5 clubs to each approach, that seems like it might hurt after awhile.

But if you really struggle with driver and you're only giving up maybe 5-10 yards then hey, that's not so bad, is it? On a short course you might not even notice!

Keep Swing Weight in mind. Every inch you cut off a club, you will reduce the swing weight by a few points. Example: your D2 swing weight could become C9. If you cut the shaft down, put a heavier grip on to help eliminate to much SW loss.

> @Millhill88 said:

> Keep Swing Weight in mind. Every inch you cut off a club, you will reduce the swing weight by a few points. Example: your D2 swing weight could become C9. If you cut the shaft down, put a heavier grip on to help eliminate to much SW loss.

Heavier grip will actually lower swing weight even more. You need to add weight back to the head. A lighter grip will increase swing weight, though feel wise it will have less of an effect than extra weight in the head.

I cut down my G400 LST to 44.25 and popped an 18 gram weight in the head I bought from GolfWorks, along with a 22 gram grip. I used to use mini drivers a lot but not anymore.

I've long since struggled with my driver but have absolutely no problem piping my 3 wood off the tee. In fact, it's maybe the best part of my game. I've always felt like the driver swing is really weird and unlike my swing with my other clubs, even when I'm trying really hard to basically pretend it's a 7-iron. I've tried shorter shafts and higher driver lofts, but to make a long story short, my problem isn't necessarily the shaft length or the clubhead size... it's the TEE HEIGHT. With the ball teed high in the air, my brain and body just short circuits and makes these massive, unnatural compensations that it doesn't make with any other swing. I think I'm scarred from my early years of hitting terrible skyballs caused by a bad angle of attack. I know, I know, just hit the ball on the way up. Sounds easy. It isn't, for me.

I've actually had a lot of success with a 13.5 degree big-headed driver teed down pretty low, like mid-face height. However, at least with the driver I tried this with, I lost a good bit of distance, probably due to spin or something. I definitely wasn't any better than with my 3 wood, for whatever reason.

I have the Callaway BB Mini in my bag right now and hit it just fine. Really, not any better than my 3 wood, so I don't really use it that much. I have the TaylorMade Original One on the way and am looking forward to putting in the bag to replace my driver.

I'm also well aware that these are all swing problems that I could probably cure with enough time and effort. I've already put in the effort and, quite frankly, I think I'm just fine accepting my fate. For now.

Play the combo thats you are Confident with.

I have Ping G5 and G20. 4 years ago i built g5 13degree strong 3 and it was a perfect fairway finder with a v2 shaft.Current t.e.e 16.5 xcg6 replaces an earlier version from 5 years ago when first had the G5 10.5. SO im just going back to what stays in the Fairway....with VSteel 5 too!! Back to the future on wrx...

Its all about confidence and figuring out what parameters inspire it. @MaineMariner makes a great point in that purely having to hit a ball off the tee can mess with a lot of us. I know for me, the higher I tee it the lower I tend to strike the ball because I feel like I have to get up after it.

For many people it is a length thing, modern drivers are just too dang long most of the time. For others its a head size thing. Remember, its just a piece of metal on a stick, everything else is in your head. Figure out what makes your head work and you're golden. Try shortening your driver first and don't be afraid to take a lot off. Maybe try with a cheap shaft first just to experiment.

I tried putting the same exact shaft that I have in my mini-driver into my driver, only 43.5 inches. Also increased the loft on the driver by 1.5. Still getting pretty big dispersion and distance is about the same. So for now, I'm just going to stick with the mini. I think it's something to do with the swing weight -- with the big head and light weight, it just doesn't feel as stable to me. Tried adding some lead tape to add some swing weight too. I think I always hit driver better back in the days before 460cc heads came around.

Why be conserned about the name of a product that helps you play better? Do you still consider a club with 43.5* of loft a 'PW' just because of the stamping on the bottom that a marketer decided on?

> @bjh1 said:

> I tried putting the same exact shaft that I have in my mini-driver into my driver, only 43.5 inches. Also increased the loft on the driver by 1.5. Still getting pretty big dispersion and distance is about the same. So for now, I'm just going to stick with the mini. I think it's something to do with the swing weight -- with the big head and light weight, it just doesn't feel as stable to me. Tried adding some lead tape to add some swing weight too. I think I always hit driver better back in the days before 460cc heads came around.

I'd highly recommend figuring out how to maximize your distance off the tee and into the fairway... whatever device gets it done for you... I finally got my driver under control and it's made a huge difference across my game and made playing more enjoyable.

Maybe try a heavier shaft in the driver? I'm in a 70 gram shaft and it seems to make a significant difference for me.

The classic problem in evaluating tee shots. You are comparing one tee shot to another, which is silly. Compare score with one club to score with the other.

The club with more loft and a shorter shaft will always produce better, more satisfying contact. You hit a 9 better than a 5. But if you are 190 out, a pretty 9 doesn't do nearly as much as an ugly 5.

Anytime you see someone talking about shot versus shot off the tee instead of score versus score its a sure sign they 1. want people to tell them to use the mini driver, they're not actually asking and 2. are too concerned with how shots feel and look and not the number they write down.

> @pinestreetgolf said:

> The classic problem in evaluating tee shots. You are comparing one tee shot to another, which is silly. Compare score with one club to score with the other.

>

> The club with more loft and a shorter shaft will always produce better, more satisfying contact. You hit a 9 better than a 5. But if you are 190 out, a pretty 9 doesn't do nearly as much as an ugly 5.

>

> Anytime you see someone talking about shot versus shot off the tee instead of score versus score its a sure sign they 1. want people to tell them to use the mini driver, they're not actually asking and 2. are too concerned with how shots feel and look and not the number they write down.

I agree with focusing on results over feel, but I'm not sure on your conclusions. Without knowing more, he might be hitting the mini driver almost as far as the regular driver... Assuming it's consistently in the fairway, 10 yards isn't much to give up. That number SHOULD be reflected on the scorecard, as you say... but that's not always the case.

Get a driver head weighted between 205 and 215, add a 3 or 5 wood length shaft and et viola..... fairway finder and no real loss of distance. Simples.

I play my Cobra F9 at 43 3/4" with a 70g+ shaft.

> @Myherobobhope said:

> > @pinestreetgolf said:

> > The classic problem in evaluating tee shots. You are comparing one tee shot to another, which is silly. Compare score with one club to score with the other.

> >

> > The club with more loft and a shorter shaft will always produce better, more satisfying contact. You hit a 9 better than a 5. But if you are 190 out, a pretty 9 doesn't do nearly as much as an ugly 5.

> >

> > Anytime you see someone talking about shot versus shot off the tee instead of score versus score its a sure sign they 1. want people to tell them to use the mini driver, they're not actually asking and 2. are too concerned with how shots feel and look and not the number they write down.

> I agree with focusing on results over feel, but I'm not sure on your conclusions. Without knowing more, he might be hitting the mini driver almost as far as the regular driver... Assuming it's consistently in the fairway, 10 yards isn't much to give up. That number SHOULD be reflected on the scorecard, as you say... but that's not always the case.

Definitely. The mini-driver might be better. I just think his current mode of analysis has the potential to be really deceptive.

Received mine today and looking forward to putting it into play. I was surprised to find no adjustment tool in the box. Thinking this was an oversight I called Taylormade. They said they don't include the tool. The rep said I could go online and find one. Wow!! I have a Ping tool so I can use that, but I am surprised. Not very likely I'll look at them in the future.

Just go with what works. It’s that simple. The Original One has been a life saver for me as I’ve struggled through some major driver issues this spring. Been playing driver roulette all season and think I now have something that is going to work, but I’m keeping it in the bag.

I've experimented with adding shaft extensions to 3 woods, to make them driver length. Without knowing anything about swing weights and other technical knowledge, the added length seems to increase distance. I've done the procedure to "modern" Callaway FT-iz and Taylor R11 3 woods, in addition to numerous wooden headed 3 woods. I hit both clubs more solid. Distance well over 200 yards, in dryer weather. I'm 66, you young pups will have BIG distance.

I horribly sliced the R11, before I lengthened it. I actually almost threw it into a lake, just could not hit it.

Techies might say I'm full of beans, but it might help.

> @Wriggles said:

> I've experimented with adding shaft extensions to 3 woods, to make them driver length. Without knowing anything about swing weights and other technical knowledge, the added length seems to increase distance. I've done the procedure to "modern" Callaway FT-iz and Taylor R11 3 woods, in addition to numerous wooden headed 3 woods. I hit both clubs more solid. Distance well over 200 yards, in dryer weather. I'm 66, you young pups will have BIG distance.

> I horribly sliced the R11, before I lengthened it. I actually almost threw it into a lake, just could not hit it.

> Techies might say I'm full of beans, but it might help.

My guess is that the added weight, and particularly the added swing weight, help you to be smoother in your transition at the top of the swing. Happens to me as well.

It doesn't even have to be 'mini-driver', those are still rather 'tiny' (i.e., 240-260cc?). What about a sub-460cc driver (i.e., 440cc)? I have always done better with those than a full out 460cc (Callaway Optiforce 440 is my favorite.....and the only reason I have my Callaway Epic Flash (Tensai AV65) in the bag is partly, if I paid $549 for a club vs Ebay/$65 for the Optiforce, I dam well am not going to put the expensive one in the closet (lol), although I'm hitting it well now because of that.....but I've taken the Tensai shaft and put it on the Optiforce and geesus, it's a rocket. So I have 2 choices now.

I was in the same place a year back. Played the mini SLDR for a bit and then got rid of it (hated that I did that) for the same paranoia that I should be hitting real driver. After more struggles, I ended going to a smaller headed 2017 M1 440 and shortening the length down to 44.5" and have never hit the Driver better. I know the smaller heads are less forgiving, but for whatever reason, they just click with me. Playing the M3 440 now and having even more success.

I've also just logged my first couple of rounds with the new Original One 275cc driver and am really impressed so far. I don't like (and am terrible at hitting) half wedges into greens, so I've been playing both the M3 and the Original One off the tee depending on hole length. I'm hitting the OO about 250-260 off the tee, so it gets pulled for any hole 380 yards or shorter. Longer par 4's and par 5's, where I where I'll never get close to getting into an awkward yardage, I play the M3. It's working out really well for me so far.

The Original One replaced 3 wood in my bag. I used play 3 wood off the tee frequently, but rarely off the deck. The OO is about 10-15 yards longer than my M2 16.5 degree 3 wood, and a lot more forgiving. So far the the combination of two driver (I feel like an idiot after making fun of Mickelson for this) has helped my game immensely.

Well said PWood. I also have this issue and still play a Mini 16* as my 3w. I can hit it off the deck and not only flight it off the tee but cut and draw on command.

Here is my take. The Mini is a square faced 2 wood. Most drivers are not squared, they are closed.

Finding a smaller head helps, slightly shorter shaft but get a square faced driver as well. I play Tour Issue M2 and Mini now, both have open faces, perfect for me. I have tried many drivers I can pound but only with the cut swing. When I try to draw them they all hook on me. But once I realized the face angle being my issue it was an easy fix.

Food for thought. I had a Mini 12* that was almost as long as my driver but dead accurate. Went to a Tour Issue 14* and now the 16* 2wood. I tried The Original One and it was NOT good. I hooked the crap out of it. So stick with the Mini and try older R15’s or Aeroburners. Tour Issue if you can so you know the face is square to open. Open faced is much easier to fix than a closed faced.

I have your same issue. I have struggled off the tee with a "normal" sized driver since I started playing. Which has only been about 4-5 years now. I have taken lessons to work on my swing. Which I fully admit is flawed and needs continued work. So I know a lot of my issues are mine and not the club. But yet I still yearned to hit the big stick off the tee. Ego I suppose cause everyone pulls out their driver and wants to bomb it away regardless of results. That one drive that goes long and straight always brings one back to the club cause they know they have it in them.

So I have tinkered around and have tried shortening my driver shaft, i.e. 44.5 and even 44 down from stock length of 45.5 or 45.75. I have tried different shaft combos even went as far as getting an aldila nv green 105S driver shaft to add weight to keep swing weight up when I cut it down to 44 inches. I still found myself in the rough, several yards from fairway, or in trees, or OB. Confidence I have when I step in a tee box with a "normal" driver is completely gone. So I looked around and found out about mini drivers. I then in turn found a TM SLDR 12* mini driver in excellent shape. Purchased and after 1 round was in love. As I played more I found through my stats I was hitting fairways more consistently or I was just off by a yard or two. I was shorter then my good drives with a "normal" driver, but overall on average not by very much. I have since got a Original One and sold my "normal" driver. I have fully committed to the mini driver and I am not looking back. I finally learned to let go of my inner ego of believing I must carry a "normal" driver in my bag and have gravitated to the desire that more opportunities of hitting greens and having a lower score card is what I want. My mini driver provides me those opportunities and I have complete confidence stepping into the tee box with it compared to my old "normal" driver.

> @Pwood28 said:

>

>

> I've also just logged my first couple of rounds with the new Original One 275cc driver and am really impressed so far. I don't like (and am terrible at hitting) half wedges into greens, so I've been playing both the M3 and the Original One off the tee depending on hole length. I'm hitting the OO about 250-260 off the tee, so it gets pulled for any hole 380 yards or shorter. Longer par 4's and par 5's, where I where I'll never get close to getting into an awkward yardage, I play the M3. It's working out really well for me so far.

>

> The Original One replaced 3 wood in my bag. I used play 3 wood off the tee frequently, but rarely off the deck. The OO is about 10-15 yards longer than my M2 16.5 degree 3 wood, and a lot more forgiving. So far the the combination of two driver (I feel like an idiot after making fun of Mickelson for this) has helped my game immensely.

Exaclty whay I am doing. We'll see if it transaltes into lower scores consistently.

Just find a driver you hit well. There isn't really a substitute for being able to hit the driver. There's some drivers i try that i don't keep in play really well and i'm a pretty good player. It's probably the club i'm most finicky about....but i'd never give it up. Just try a bunch on a demo day and use it for a few years. If you can hit a 3 wood well you can hit a driver

1. Taking lessons and just fixing your swing is just not as easy as it sounds. Most everyone here has certainly taken lessons to improve their game, but if lessons works so well, we should be able to take a couple and be done, right? The driver is the toughest club to hit consistently and even the Pros struggle with it. It's little wonder many amateurs loath the big stick and everything that is so different about the swing, setup, alignment, etc., etc..

2. A 45.75" driver with an upright 460cc head simply just does not fit everyone. Chopping the shaft down, even when ordering straight from manufacturer simply does not work. Without access to Tour Van like capabilities, there is very little chance to get all the components to work together. Even then, will the head and shaft, play and perform as designed? Maybe, or maybe not. I live in a big, golf year around city (~1.5 million people!); there is not one shop in town that does hot melt any longer. How many drivers out there actually allow you to change the lie? It's just way too many hoops to jump through at $500 a pop. Why can't I get a 44.5" 2° flat driver off the rack? Seriously.

3. So if you're in the tiny minority of X-flex golfers with a plus 100 ss, find your swing as easy as sitting on the pot and think you'd be losing 30+ yd, this thread is just not for you. If you're one of the vast majority of golfers with a sub 100 ss like me, struggle quite often with the driver, a Mini might work out just swell. I don't carry a 3 wood, so it's my slot for an extra tee club, be it DI or Mini.

I've played all the Mini's, so the new Original One was going to be in my bag, sooner or later (sooner is the answer). It's easily the best Mini by far and is shockingly low launch and low spin even with the stock R shaft and 13.5° loft. I never expected it to be even near my driver, but into the wind, it's piercing ball flight proved to be equally long. I've only played one round, but as a frequent double crosser with my driver, my misses are much less severe. The shorter shaft helps for sure and maybe Twist Face is a really thing! Lastly, this club is stunningly gorgeous and the clean and classic, black on black on black looks amazing. Taylormade went all out on the aesthetics and technology for their 40th Anniversary club. Well done and thanks TM.

Played college golf and my senior year ran into a little trouble with the driver, and coach literally took it out of my bag and just made he hit 3 wood everywhere. Really struggled mentally with the driver after that, hit it great on the range, but for some reason just could not get any consistency on the course. Could go 70 yards right, could go 70 yards left, literally had no idea. I always hit my 3 wood about 250-260 off the tee and was pretty consistent, so if I was playing a course under 7,000 yards it was never really a huge issue. Last week I went and hit the Original One, and mentally its really was a game changer for me. Took it out on the course, put the driver shaft I was fitted with into it, and couldn’t be happier. Carrying 280, piercing trajectory with low spin, and my biggest miss all weekend was 10 yards off the fairway. Consistent theme in this thread, but this game is so mental that if you find something you have confidence in, who cares what it looks like. I think I have gained more from the confidence I have with this than the maybe 10 extra yards I get when I am hitting the driver well…

> @mootrail said:

> 2. A 45.75" driver with an upright 460cc head simply just does not fit everyone. Chopping the shaft down, even when ordering straight from manufacturer simply does not work. Without access to Tour Van like capabilities, there is very little chance to get all the components to work together. Even then, will the head and shaft, play and perform as designed? Maybe, or maybe not. I live in a big, golf year around city (~1.5 million people!); there is not one shop in town that does hot melt any longer. How many drivers out there actually allow you to change the lie? It's just way too many hoops to jump through at $500 a pop. Why can't I get a 44.5" 2° flat driver off the rack? Seriously.

Yes, a 45"+ driver hardly really fits anyone well. But you don't really need any special capabilities to get a cut down driver to work well or to find what ones needs for a shaft might be. It does take a little time and effort by the individual, but it's really not that hard at all. All that's really usually needed is a bucket of balls, some high density lead tape, and a bottle/can of foot powder spray. And the forum is full of people who have gone through the process successfully. This is the best tutorial to help with that process:

https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/909991/diy-driver-tune-up-diy-fitting/p1

Now some people may not want to take the time and effort - in which case, the mini's certainly can be an easier option, and that's fine. And some (small %) people have a hard time getting used to the visual of the big head at the end of a shorter shaft. But that's a lot different than saying a cut down full size driver wont or can't work.

> @bulls9999 said:

> It doesn't even have to be 'mini-driver', those are still rather 'tiny' (i.e., 240-260cc?). What about a sub-460cc driver (i.e., 440cc)? I have always done better with those than a full out 460cc (Callaway Optiforce 440 is my favorite.....and the only reason I have my Callaway Epic Flash (Tensai AV65) in the bag is partly, if I paid $549 for a club vs Ebay/$65 for the Optiforce, I dam well am not going to put the expensive one in the closet (lol), although I'm hitting it well now because of that.....but I've taken the Tensai shaft and put it on the Optiforce and geesus, it's a rocket. So I have 2 choices now.

I bought a 440 Optiforce almost two years ago, Callaway preowned. Best driver I've ever hit. A couple weeks ago, after hitting a drive, replacing the head cover, and putting it in a Sunday bag, walking down the fairway, the head just fell off with a foot of shaft still attached. Thought about calling, but Callaway warrants one year, don't want to press my luck. Prior to that, I had a R11 from Callaway, developed a rattle in six months, they sent me a replacement, and even paid for return shipping for the rattle one. So, I respect the one year warranty. I'll get a new shaft at some point.

Funny, yesterday, I played a RAM 460cc driver, I bought in 2006 or so, for $29.95 new. A beautiful maroon finish, I never played it much. Remember guys commenting how pretty the driver was. Really crunched some drives with it yesterday.

Go with whatever lowers your scores. That's the point, yes?