If You Use Graphite Shafts In Woods, Hybrids, And Irons Please Read

I have been trying to figure out why my graphite shafted irons are so hard to play with, and it is the swing weight. Steel shafted irons are D-2 and graphite are D-0. The first irons to show real success where the CF16 irons after they were swing weighted. Next were the G irons, amazing changes here, and now my Mizuno EZ. Then I decided to try it out on the woods and hybrids, again great results. If you have an extra set to try this out on, please do so. The results are what I have been looking for, for some time. This week has been a real eye opener. Biggest gains were the woods, hybrids, irons, and chipping. Another huge gain was going through the rough. I am now finding the sweet spot more often. The lead tape can be had at most golf shops for $10. Try two to three each strips, 1 1/2" long, on each club on the back side of the head, or on top of woods and hybrids. It should move ball contact closer to the center of the club face. If it doesn't work for you, your only out $10, but if it does, money well spent. Make sure to wash hands well after handling the tape. The results with the Ping G irons was something else.

Lead tape can be a miracle drug for sure

Everyone has a preferred swing weight - my preference has always been C9.

I prefer D0. Graphite shafts allow me to get there at +1”.

Strange timing of this post, OP. I just put lead tape on my CF16s (both along the bottom of the cavity back and along the bottom two inches of the shafts). I am liking the heavier swingweight already as I felt I lost the club head a bit before. Mine are shafted with Recoil 780 ES F4 shafts, which are probably too light for my preference.

> @Buzzkill said:

> Everyone has a preferred swing weight - my preference has always been C9.

nobody have a SW value that works no matter club, that depend on total weight and play lenght. Tracing a SW value is not the way to go, we should go by feel and ehat works, and we ends up with different values depending on the actual club

I prefer a little heavier swing weight. For example, Pings almost always feel too light to me, whether with light weight graphite or steel shafts. Luckily, I play my clubs at 1 inch over standard which brings the SW up nicely.

Since adding weight to my Mizuno EZ irons, they have become a different club altogether. Nice soft touch, more length, and more sweet spots. Chipping has been the best with the 9 iron. Next I will take the M4's out tomorrow and see if it helps them. I am using a graduating swing weight, more on the wedges and less on the long irons. My fairway woods have been amazing with the heavier weight. I have never hit so many good shots with them.

> @"Howard Jones" said:

> > @Buzzkill said:

> > Everyone has a preferred swing weight - my preference has always been C9.

>

> nobody have a SW value that works no matter club, that depend on total weight and play lenght. Tracing a SW value is not the way to go, we should go by feel and ehat works, and we ends up with different values depending on the actual club

I agree that the industry standard of D2 doesn't work for a lot of folks.

> @Buzzkill said:

> > @"Howard Jones" said:

> > > @Buzzkill said:

> > > Everyone has a preferred swing weight - my preference has always been C9.

> >

> > nobody have a SW value that works no matter club, that depend on total weight and play lenght. Tracing a SW value is not the way to go, we should go by feel and ehat works, and we ends up with different values depending on the actual club

>

> I agree that the industry standard of D2 doesn't work for a lot of folks.

While also true, that's not the point he was making. Simply put, just because swing weight A works well in one club for someone - that doesn't mean it will automatically work in all the other clubs for that same person. The "need" for a particular swing weight can (and frequently will) change as the length and shaft weights change. e.g. for me I use D4-D5 in the wedges - but my driver's tend to be C8-D0.

> @Stuart_G said:

> > @Buzzkill said:

> > > @"Howard Jones" said:

> > > > @Buzzkill said:

> > > > Everyone has a preferred swing weight - my preference has always been C9.

> > >

> > > nobody have a SW value that works no matter club, that depend on total weight and play lenght. Tracing a SW value is not the way to go, we should go by feel and ehat works, and we ends up with different values depending on the actual club

> >

> > I agree that the industry standard of D2 doesn't work for a lot of folks.

>

> While also true, **that's not the point he was making.** Simply put, just because swing weight A works well in one club for someone - that doesn't mean it will automatically work in all the other clubs for that same person. The "need" for a particular swing weight can (and frequently will) change as the length and shaft weights change. e.g. for me I use D4-D5 in the wedges - but my driver's tend to be C8-D0.

I know, just wasn't agreeing!

> @Buzzkill said:

> I know, just wasn't agreeing!

Not very effectively.

In general - or just in specific cases.

> @Buzzkill said:

> > @"Howard Jones" said:

> > > @Buzzkill said:

> > > Everyone has a preferred swing weight - my preference has always been C9.

> >

> > nobody have a SW value that works no matter club, that depend on total weight and play lenght. Tracing a SW value is not the way to go, we should go by feel and ehat works, and we ends up with different values depending on the actual club

>

> I agree that the industry standard of D2 doesn't work for a lot of folks.

That's the problem, graphite irons are generally D-0, which is just too light to get any action on the ball. D-0 is all over the toe for me in all my clubs.

Initially when shifting from steel to graphite shafts the old rule of the thumb was go 1/2 in. longer and the SW and heft feel will fall in line.

But if you are a shorter player, this will cause problems. Too bad manufacturers can't make all clubs to be easily adjustable for swing weight?

While swing weight is important for me, total weight is were it is at. Number 1 variable. Lots of trial and error. But finally got it figured out, for me.

> @platgof said:

> But if you are a shorter player, this will cause problems. Too bad manufacturers can't make all clubs to be easily adjustable for swing weight?

Swing weight is meaningless but feel is relevant,,,,if you are lucky adding lead tape until the club feels right and then adding tip or hosel weights to build the rest of the set to that standard is simple. If you are not lucky you will need to figure out how to subtract weight from the club.

> @platgof said:

> But if you are a shorter player, this will cause problems. Too bad manufacturers can't make all clubs to be easily adjustable for swing weight?

It’s shocking they don’t actually so they could get them right when they build them.

That is why I like my Spider putter, it has changeable weights to alter to what works for you. I went from stock 2 to 6 grams. Same thing with my driver, cut it to 45, and then added the heavier 12 gram weight. Irons need to be the same.

Just an update. Since adding weight to the F9 fairway woods and the OS hybrids, the difference has increased my confidence level. Before it was usually the toe hit, and going no where, now it is a nice full shot approaching the green. I checked the TM Rocketballz fairway woods, and they have got to be one of the heaviest made. It also explains some of their their great success as well, besides the pocket.

> @"Olde Maroon" said:

> Strange timing of this post, OP. I just put lead tape on my CF16s (both along the bottom of the cavity back and along the bottom two inches of the shafts). I am liking the heavier swingweight already as I felt I lost the club head a bit before. Mine are shafted with Recoil 780 ES F4 shafts, which are probably too light for my preference.

Great idea on the shaft just under the grip, as I have some that are getting into the "shank" area of the sweet spot. I will definitely try this on the wedges to see what happens.

If you top the ball often or hit it on the toe as well, you are a candidate for lead tape.

Playing yesterday and the lead tape came off my 7 iron. I could tell something was wrong as the iron did not go down to the ball like it does with the weight. The lead tape really makes a difference.