Opinions on my bag composition

Just throwing ideas at the wall and curious as to what people might think would be advantageous or help me best:

I've played golf most of my life, I'd consider myself to be quite a decent player. At this current stage, my distances (potentially subject to change) can be said to be tour average or relatively close to.

I'm building a new bag as I require an entirely new set for various reasons, I mostly wanted some input on how I should build the top end. Main reason I ask, I end up seeing an awful lot of 5 woods and hybrids on tour - I'd likely equate that to them requiring very high ball flights and very fast greens.

I know 100% I will be getting 4 wedges, so that leaves these options I would consider: (after a 3/4 fairway metal)

* 2.5 iron, 3 iron up

* 2nd fairway, 2.5 iron, 4 iron up

* 3 hybrid, 2.5 iron, 3 iron, 4.5 iron, 6 iron up (this configuration is designed for having two trajectories at the top end, lower 2.5 iron and higher hybrid)

A little about myself: out of everything in my bag, my irons tend to be the most consistent - I love long irons (and are quite decent with them) and would very much love a driving iron. I've probably left out some detail that you may need so ask away in the replies.

What would be the pros-cons to each of those setups?

I think it depends on how far you hit each of those clubs, and the trajectory. Doesn't hurt to have multiple options on the higher end and switch out the clubs depending on what course you are playing.

Aren't the first 2 options 15 clubs?

D, 3/4w, 2.5i, 3i, 4i, 5i, 6i, 7i, 8i, 9i, Pw, Gw, Sw, Lw, Putter?

> @jkim27 said:

> Aren't the first 2 options 15 clubs?

> D, 3/4w, 2.5i, 3i, 4i, 5i, 6i, 7i, 8i, 9i, Pw, Gw, Sw, Lw, Putter?

Indeed it is, made a mistake. They would also include the 4.5 iron dropping the 5. Like specified, my distances can be specified as tour average or on closer inspection slightly further (124 or so mph ball speed with 7 iron, maybe more in future).

I mean if you're that good with long irons I wouldn't bother with the hybrid. Lots of guys going 2 iron and then 4-PW. The whole point of 14 clubs is sacrifice. Basically, if you think you want options on the top end, best to go weak PW, then something in the 52-54 range and something in the 58-60 range.

To me though, if you're playing to or near scratch and are quite serious about the game, the best thing is to go do a gap test session with a fitter. IMO it's kind of pointless to say "I want a 2.5i and 3i" or similar. You have yardages you need to hit and it doesn't matter how you hit them, just that the flight window and gaps work for you. Having 15 clubs is fine if you are playing a links course one day and it's windy go with the DI and pull it out if you're pin hunting on a parkland course. I see OCD people on here all the time that are obsessed with matching shafts (mine happen to only because I purchased second hand this way) and perfect loft gaps - see: people getting wedges bent so they are perfect 5* gaps at 45, 50, 55, 60 when they haven't even gap tested them. Same goes for shafts, look at Matt Kuchar's bag. His sh*t is all whacked out with different shafts (random steelfiber in his GW and DG 105 soft stepped in irons with KBS in his other wedges and random AF hybrids). That's not by mistake, he just has yardages he needs to hit. You may find that a chunky 3 driving iron does exactly what you need it to do in terms of yardage or that the FW wood lofts should be different. Hard to say but get fit and gap it out.

> @balls_deep said:

> I mean if you're that good with long irons I wouldn't bother with the hybrid. Lots of guys going 2 iron and then 4-PW. The whole point of 14 clubs is sacrifice. Basically, if you think you want options on the top end, best to go weak PW, then something in the 52-54 range and something in the 58-60 range.

So basically you would suggest either a second fairway or a 2.5 iron? I agree with your statement on it being pointless having a 2.5 iron and 3 iron.

I realized reading this thread back that I've kind of answered my own questions.

I guess, what I mean is, it's all loft. A 2.5 iron could be many different things depending on set. Your set could be 9* driver, 14* FW, 18* FW and then irons that are 20*, 24*, 28* 31* and so on. It really depends on what you need to hit certain yardages given shaft and head combos.

Go with the 12-13 clubs you feel you need and then put in the 1-2 that are nice to have on occasion. If you feel like you desperately need all 14 (or even 15) you probably haven't decided between things are are inherently over-lapping.

Like for instance, I can't tell you whether or not to go 5w or 2i. That's your call. I can tell you that the vast majority of people would be better off with a 5w, especially if they already have other long irons in the bag.

I also don't advocate changing up your set every week. Unless you're going from the US to Scotland you shouldn't need to change things up. That's usually done because people want to buy more stuff.

Also, while everyone loves the look of a bag full of long irons, they tend to be the least involved with scoring. Inevitably amateur club players need to improve their driving, short/med approach accuracy, short game and putting more than anything else. Hitting better 3- and 4-irons is rarely amongst the top-5 things a player could do for himself.

> @balls_deep said:

> I guess, what I mean is, it's all loft. A 2.5 iron could be many different things depending on set. Your set could be 9* driver, 14* FW, 18* FW and then irons that are 20*, 24*, 28* 31* and so on. It really depends on what you need to hit certain yardages given shaft and head combos.

Good advice, thank you. I was mostly thinking from a shot-making perspective and work out yardages based on what 'tools' I have to use (I.E. taking something off some clubs to get the in-between yardages, as opposed to having neat yardages and improvising shot-making)

> @MelloYello said:

> Go with the 12-13 clubs you feel you need and then put in the 1-2 that are nice to have on occasion. If you feel like you desperately need all 14 (or even 15) you probably haven't decided between things are are inherently over-lapping.

>

> Like for instance, I can't tell you whether or not to go 5w or 2i. That's your call. I can tell you that the vast majority of people would be better off with a 5w, especially is they already have other long irons in the bag.

>

> I also don't advocate changing up your set every week. Unless you're going from the US to Scotland you shouldn't need to change things up. That's usually done because people want to buy more stuff.

It's not that I can't decide between things that are over-lapping, I have a purpose for everything in my setup (4 wedges for bounces and specific shot types as I have a strong short game), with the top end for different trajectories and different types of holes.

I'm trying to make a decision for building a bag to hold onto for a long time - with hopefully only buying the 14, maximum 15 for swapping in a fairway or 2 iron.

That being said, I probably should just get both and swap in depending on course.

> @rt_charger said:

> > @MelloYello said:

> > Go with the 12-13 clubs you feel you need and then put in the 1-2 that are nice to have on occasion. If you feel like you desperately need all 14 (or even 15) you probably haven't decided between things are are inherently over-lapping.

> >

> > Like for instance, I can't tell you whether or not to go 5w or 2i. That's your call. I can tell you that the vast majority of people would be better off with a 5w, especially is they already have other long irons in the bag.

> >

> > I also don't advocate changing up your set every week. Unless you're going from the US to Scotland you shouldn't need to change things up. That's usually done because people want to buy more stuff.

>

> It's not that I can't decide between things that are over-lapping, I have a purpose for everything in my setup (4 wedges for bounces and specific shot types as I have a strong short game), with the top end for different trajectories and different types of holes.

>

> I'm trying to make a decision for building a bag to hold onto for a long time - with hopefully only buying the 14, maximum 15 for swapping in a fairway or 2 iron.

Then it just depends on the courses you play and how good you actually are.

I'm a 7-8 handicap with a strong short game so like you, I went with more options amongst the wedges. After my driver I went with a couple easy-to-use fairway metals. I want a 3w I can hit off the deck rather than a modern, low-spin bomber. The 5w is cut down so it's more about control and shot-placement.

For me, I just didn't need a 2- or 3-iron as my course didn't call for it.

> @MelloYello said:

> For me, I just didn't need a 2- or 3-iron as my course didn't call for it.

Fair enough my friend. The main reason I was wanting one was because when I was playing with a terribly ill fit set of clubs (driver and 3 wood ended up being horribly inconsistent), the one thing I could rely on was my stinger with a strong 3 iron (20 degrees). I was thinking with a properly fit club, a quality head at 18-19 degrees, the long iron off the tee could be my secret weapon on tight or short holes.

Not to mention I love my links golf and often play low in the wind.

Driver, 3 wood, 5 wood

4-pw

Gap, sand, lob

Putter

If gap between 5 wood and 4 iron is too big bend 4 iron down a degree. Or get strong lofted irons, you have plenty of wedge space.

> @"b.helts" said:

> Driver, 3 wood, 5 wood

> 4-pw

> Gap, sand, lob

> Putter

>

> If gap between 5 wood and 4 iron is too big bend 4 iron down a degree. Or get strong lofted irons, you have plenty of wedge space.

>

>

Yep and then swap out 5w if you're playing links and want the 2i for stinger

I agree with those saying DR 3W 5W then 4. I have a 5W I bring out for certain courses with big time par 5's. That said my daily bag has a 3H instead of the 5w, m3 so its still iron like and a 105 gram shaft makes it pretty much a very forgiving 3 iron (no high spinners, or hooks). 4 Iron should cover anything between that or a 5W , get a beefed up 4 if needed.

I'm planning a complete bag overhaul but don't have a job thus haven't spent the cash on new clubs... that plus downtime from not having a job have led me to way overthink this issue.

For me, I play one course more or less exclusively. I'll play some other courses, but it makes the most sense to build a complete bag for my home course. Thus I want to make sure I have the distances I need to play my course the best. For me, this means I want a driver I can go after and then a backup fairway finder that hits and stops at 260 yards. I don't find myself 260 out from the green on many occasions, so this is most likely going to end up being a 14 degree driver with a 43 inch shaft. It might also end up being a two wood if I can find one at a fitter or take a flyer on one in the BST.

Those two clubs will be my main off the tee clubs. So the next spot to fill is the long approaches in. I get along better with hybrids than I do irons, but I might end up with a five wood or something. The gap between 260-200 for me will have 2 clubs... I haven't figure out which 2 clubs those will be, but I'll probably get one I can hit 240 and one I can hit 220.

200 yards will be 5 iron, 190 6 iron, 180 7 iron, 170 8 iron 160 9 iron 150 pw, then scoring wedges (50, 54, and 58, I think) from there on down... close out with a putter and I'm 14 clubs. I'm still debating the make up of the wedges and different bounce options... I was planning on the 54 being dedicated to sand wedge, but I'm thinking the 58 might be a better option... something I will discuss with a fitter.

My overall strategy is to make sure I have what I need for the course that I play. I'm less concerned with overall ball flight off the tee as wind isn't usually a huge factor in Kentucky.

I think you just need to figure out what role you want each club to play and how it interacts with the overall set.

I'd assess two cases. If your clubhead speed is tour-average, then:

1) 275 brings a hazard into play. Must carry at least 225. What club would you hit off the tee?

2) You're out 240 yards to the center of the green from the fairway. What club do you hit?

If you give the same answer for both of those scenarios, bag that club and you probably don't need anything else between Driver and your longest set-iron. If you're going for 240+ yard greens from non-fairway lies, I think that's a rare enough occurrence that it shouldn't affect your normal plan. At tour average, anything short of 240 is probably going to be reachable with a 3 iron, so you're really only talking about a couple of shots that you'd need that club to hit.

> @Mych said:

> I'd assess two cases. If your clubhead speed is tour-average, then:

> 1) 275 brings a hazard into play. Must carry at least 225. What club would you hit off the tee?

> 2) You're out 240 yards to the center of the green from the fairway. What club do you hit?

>

I like this.

Case 1: this would be anywhere from 3 wood to 4 iron depending on the hole design, I'd need more specific information to determine.

Case 2: Unfortunately again it depends - trouble short or long, type of green, etc? High cut with a 2 iron or a 3 iron (maybe even 4, idk how far my new clubs will go).