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Shaft Pull Issue and New Adapters


steeletaylor

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I purchased a new shaft for my 5 wood and had my local shop install a new adapter. Their epoxy must have been old because the shaft was twisting and coming out of the adapter after a few uses. Took it back to the shop where they installed a new adapter free of charge.

 

The ferrule then started creeping up on this new adapter, which didn't bother too much. However, the shaft is now breaking where the adapter was installed and the head is about to fall off. The club has not been subject to any abuse and is never left in a hot car.

 

My questions:

 

1. Is there a limit to how many times a shaft can be pulled and have new adapter installed before it will begin to break?

2. Do I need to make sure that future club work involves new epoxy?

3. Am I just unlucky?

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_Is there a limit to how many times a shaft can be pulled and have new adapter installed before it will begin to break?_

Yes and no. It really depends on how competent the repair person is. I've re-used shafts many times. Some however, cook the shaft and you might only not even get one pull out of it.

 

_Do I need to make sure that future club work involves new epoxy?_

I can guarantee you it is never the epoxies fault. It is always either the ratio, the mixing or not prepping the materials correctly. Many think they can just use the adaptor and not prep it since it looks clean. They always need to be prepped and cleaned.

 

_Am I just unlucky?_

Unlucky to possibly have chosen a repair shop that doesn't do the job correctly or cuts corners.

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Socrates pretty much covered it all. But I would just re-iterate that you don't ever need to take this person another club to work on. They obviously don't know what they're doing. Like most other things these days, it's hard to find good help. I finally gave up and taught myself to do club work, due to the same things you're experiencing.

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> @steeletaylor said:

> 3. Am I just unlucky?

 

In some respects Yes. The vast majority of the time a new adapter can be installed with no real prep to the adapter and it will work fine. But every once in a while one comes along that the glue just doesn't want to stick to and you get the results you saw. But a proper cleaning and roughening up the inside of the adapter bore (sand-paper or a wire brush) will fix the problem 99.9% of the time.

 

 

 

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Unfortunately I had the same thing happen to me with a 3 wood. I just started doing my own club work after that.

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  • 1 month later...

In lieu of creating a new thread, I figured I would just piggy back on this one since it involves the same shaft.

 

Is it possible to pull the adapter, cut the shaft where it broke, reinstall a new/clean adapter, and then put an extension in the butt of the shaft? In theory, the shaft was cut at the tip for a 3w and then butt cut for a 5w, so this new tip trim job would get it to bend like a 5w and it would just have an extender in the butt.

 

Would this affect how the shaft plays? If so, I would imagine that it would be negligible, but I am not expert.

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> @steeletaylor said:

> In lieu of creating a new thread, I figured I would just piggy back on this one since it involves the same shaft.

>

> Is it possible to pull the adapter, cut the shaft where it broke, reinstall a new/clean adapter, and then put an extension in the butt of the shaft? In theory, the shaft was cut at the tip for a 3w and then butt cut for a 5w, so this new tip trim job would get it to bend like a 5w and it would just have an extender in the butt.

 

In theory it depends on a few things. The length of the parallel tip section, how much it was tipped for the original install, and how much of the tip section was lost from the damage.

 

All driver/wood shafts have a parallel tip section that stays at the particular diameter (either .335 or .350) for a short distance before the diameter starts to increase. This section is also reinforced to better handle the stresses the shaft takes at the top of the hossel. If, after both the original tipping and the breakage, you still have enough of the parallel tip section left on the shaft to get full insertion into to bore of the next head, then you can do it. If not, the shaft is generally considered toast.

 

3" parallel tip section is most common but it can range from 2"-4" so you have to check the specs on the specific shaft model. Bore depths tend to be 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". So basically if you do the math, you'll see that if the shaft was not tipped previously, there's a decent chance you might be able to reuse it. But if it was tipped at all (and most 3wd's are tipped 1/2" or even 1"), then the chances are quite small that you can safely reuse the shaft.

 

 

> @steeletaylor said:

> Would this affect how the shaft plays? If so, I would imagine that it would be negligible, but I am not expert.

 

It would result in the shaft playing noticeably stiffer.

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> @Stuart_G said:

> > @steeletaylor said:

> > 3. Am I just unlucky?

>

> In some respects Yes. The vast majority of the time a new adapter can be installed with no real prep to the adapter and it will work fine. But every once in a while one comes along that the glue just doesn't want to stick to and you get the results you saw. But a proper cleaning and roughening up the inside of the adapter bore (sand-paper or a wire brush) will fix the problem 99.9% of the time.

>

>

>

 

Agree. Prep tip shaft and inside of the adapter. Most never think of preparing/cleaning the inside of the adapter thus the many fails.

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I bet who ever pulled it used to much heat. Makes the fibres go all rubbery. Been there done that...

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> @Kale_m said:

> I bet who ever pulled it used to much heat. Makes the fibres go all rubbery. Been there done that...

 

Pretty much the reason I don’t buy pulls anymore. You never know what your getting.

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