Lots of great info here. Thanks for the responses.
Reason for the post is that I would love to get the Apex MB in 7-PW. I like the explosive feel of the 4-6 for the apex, but hate the feel of the 7 iron, and the 8-PW just don't wow me on feel like the MBs do. And knowing from Wishon that the forgiveness from the 8-PW is essentially the same, I figure this would be a good way to split.
I just worry about the look/stares of splitting a set, and how a split set looks in the bag (I know, only on this site does the look of a bag while walking matter), but still a consideration.
Also, since I got spoiled with the Oban shafts, its not super cheap to get more/new irons... thanks fitting...
Not to throw shade at TW who is an industry expert, but the idea the 8-PW is the same I just don't agree with. I recently experimented with a staff 8I (effectively a 9i compared to my P770). I hit shots with both clubs, marking the strikes and where the ball went with powder.
The MB punished more on thin hits for sure, and off center hits while not as bad as one may think, the CB still carried those balls farther. Had I had a trackman I gather I would have seen this through changes in ballspeed.
As for looks, I have an absolute hodge podge of clubs.
I began with Cally woods, TM irons (cally wedges). Same PM grind family of wedges. Close to uniform but not uni-brand because what fun is that?
I now have 2 wood families, clashing color hybrids , blended irons, black wedges from different family years so one black is darker then the other. All in a Nike bag, rocking Truvis balls typically.
Embrace the anti-OCD, it may lower your handicap :D
I would worry about getting something you like. The split concept is a personal preference. If you really feel you are going to benefit from having a different kind of long-iron then go for it. Personally, I went with the iron design that I felt were best for me overall, because in my experience split sets had always been awkward.
If you want to specify on an iron-by-iron basis and you're comfortable with the set, then go for it. Lots of guys do it. The biggest obstacle is getting the look, balance and feel to blend nicely enough that you don't end up wondering, 'should I hit a blade 7 or a big, friendly, CB 6?' If the set blends smoothly it's not a big issue.
Also remember that a lot of the work has already been done for you by the club designer who is taking time to make sure that within a set of CBs the short irons are more blade-esque while the longer irons have progressively more of a cavity and more perimeter weighting.
It's also nice having a complete set where the turf interaction is the same from one club to the next. I've yet to find a blended set where the blades didn't feel different in that regard.
I gravitate towards blades because of feel. Mind you, it isn’t not so much the feel of the strike - there are plenty of CBS that feel outstanding on contact. Rather, for me, there is a distinct feel of a thin-sole iron through the turf that a thinker sole iron cannot replicate. Without that “feel” of turf interaction, contact doesn’t feel a solid solid to me.
As a result, I want the thinner soles, which usually are found on blades.
I generally don’t put much but stock in “forgiveness,” but I expect there will be a time when I will struggle to elevate blades to an appropriate trajectory. I’m not there yet, so I play a full set of MBs. The search will be an interesting one for me when the day arrives when I need help.
At at the end of the day, a lot of us don’t play for scores. And, even if we did, there’s plenty that will score as well, or better, playing blades for precision as opposed to something else for other reasons (distance, forgiveness, etc. ). Play what will provide you the most joy.
I kind of agree of this.
Since switching from 716 MB irons last year to 716 CB irons this year I'm noticing a distinctive uptick in the consistency of my 8-iron. My typical miss is slightly out towards the toe and I can't tell you how many "wow, that turned out great!" shots I've hit with that darn CB 8-iron this year.
I am a Porsche 😎 and blade guy. You are correct about both. However, not all sports cars are performance based, many are like blades, just "pretty." LOL The performance variable with both is the person. Average Joe drives an econobox to the store and he can drive a GT3 to the store too, and not experience the cars performance. But average Joe can't play an decent game of golf with a blades as easy as he can drive both cars to the store. 😀
Are there many people here who play blades and are passionate about it but did not grow up playing blades?
I feel like for many guys <40 the blade thing does not have as much panache
I've played with a bunch of the top juniors in Quebec and I rarely see blades. Most guys I see using them are 55+ and grew up playing them
People hitting 8-irons out of the toe are exactly why CBs were invented ;-)
It really doesn't. The blade debate just dies the younger you go.
Blades *do* have the benefit of notably tighter dispersion on good hits. A moderately well known robot test done at Hogan showed the blades with a shot pattern 1/4th the size of that produced by the Edge CB.
I'd call that a performance benefit.
I have noticed that when I hit blades well/moderately well, then the dispersion is fantastic. I did a 10 shot trackman test for 130-180 yards with both blades and players CBs, and my scores/dispersions and "projected" handicap was much better with the blades than the CB. Now, I did this test second with the blades, but still, it said I was +3 with the blades and 5 with the CBs. (I am actually a 5-ish).
This has been the main bug in my ear, that the launch/spin/land angles were better with the short irons from 7 down with the blades than my own CBs. So this is the reason I have been thinking about split setting.
Old school 911 were known as the Doctor Killer for a reason...a bit tail happy. :)
...and worse dispersion on poor hits, so it seems the good cancels out the bad. Unless you game the numbers by selecting that data to match your conclusion, there is no quantifiable overall benefit.
The challenge of blades beyond 7-iron or so is the increased spin and lower launch in comparison to a CB. The toe & thin issues are often cited but the thing that will keep them in the bag is recognition of their design and adjusting the swing and shaft specs to them. X100 in a CB is a completely different animal than one in a blade. Flipping your way around a course with a CB is way easier to get by with than doing so with a blade. The miss fires in both will happen, if you make the adjustments, carrying full set of MB is not all that great of a leap and avoids the split set thing which to me, adds way too much variability in a game that is all about variation already. But that's just me. Enjoy the holiday folks.
That would be true if your good to bad ratio were 1:1 or worse, or only marginally better than that. But if you can make decent contact often enough, there's a definite benefit.
On the car angle.... I used to have a Toyota Supra. Inline six with rear wheel drive. Had to be careful making corners, sometimes, LOL. Even on dry pavement.
The spin is what got me to try Eye2+ for a year. Significantly lower spin than the Mizinos I'd been using.
Just got these off the bay
The idea of a clean strike from 150yds is my main reason,Generally the blades thinner sole help in this regard.
Like many subjects today with youth they hold no value. If they were not influenced by someone older that they respect and wish to model, they want easy.
Interesting to see which one you gravitate towards
Wanting easy isn’t always a bad thing. I can only speak for myself but golf is fun when I’m solid contact and getting help on a not so solid shot helps. That’s where the advantages of a CB come into play. It’s not taking the easy way out, it’s using the best equipment for my swing and amount of time I can practice.
Taylormade M6 10.5| Project X Even Flow Black X 6.5
Taylormade M4 Tour 15 * |Mitsubishi Tensei CK White 70 X
Ping G400 18 | PING Alta CB 65 Stiff
Callaway Apex 19 4-PW | Nippon Modus Tour 3 120 X
Callaway MD4 48* / 54* / 59* | Nippon Modus Tour 3 120 X
Odyssey Stroke Lab, Toulon Memphis 34"
To me, the benefit comes with how the club goes through the turf. I grew up with Hogan and Mizuno’s in my bag. I don’t know if I was always steep or I became steep because I was hitting blades. Regardless, that’s where I am now. As I move to longer irons I become less steep and the wider soles become less of an issue. I tried to go more forgiving this year and put z585s in my bag. Even with the v sole I can still don’t like the short irons and I feel like I am a club short sometimes. When I get through the turf really clean, I’m 15 yards past the pin. Some of that comes from low spin fliers but it makes it really hard to feel comfortable with my yardage. I just ordered a set of Z Forged with the same Modus 105s I have in my 585s. I’ll probably keep my 585 4 and 5 iron and go z forged down. I’ll have to adjust the lofts a little of course on the 585s but I’m looking forward to going back to blades.
On looks alone I prefer the MB
Well this isn't something like sportsmanship or etiquette, which I do believe should be imparted to younger generations. Using blades is a preference. If blades die in 20 years because everyone in 2040 finds it easier to use something else (and they still stick pins and shape shots), nothing really is lost.
Golf *played from the correct tees* doesn't test long-iron play very much. There are really two people this hits - competitive players who are forced to play courses too long for them (me, from time to time, e.g. the New Orleans Metro Championship being played on a 7300 yard monstrosity) and vanity players who think they can play tips/second from back and simply can't (<- surprising number of these folks). I added 3-4-5 G30 hybrids for these tournaments. I can't hit blades in low irons. I tried once in competitive play (just once). Third tee my 3 iron MP-58 went about 90 yards straight up and right. I was trying to hit a stinger. Never again. What's annoying is I know exactly that miss - its a super-common miss for me steep toe. Steep toe with a 3 hybrid goes about 210, super high, super fade. Steep toe with that MP-58 looked like a duck after it had already been shot.
So, I think sometimes these 'hybrid sets' are a little ambitious and people would do well playing hybrids (actual hybrids) way up into mid-iron range. I play 3-PW GI irons for the buddy rounds but usually during the actual season the three hybrids come in. Not to mention my score during tournament play last year on par 3 holes was +1 total over a large sample because those hybrids are *so much easier* to score with on par 3s than regular irons.
I actually do get a ton of strange looks with three hybrids on the first tee but "reliable low cut->hybrid->short game/good putter" can be remarkably effective even for a younger / not distance challenged golfer. Its all about the best way to keep it in play. Those MP-58s were a tough deal below 6 iron.
I think you could say it this way: If you want to shoot an 85 (or don't care what the total score is) BUT have 3-4 incredible holes per round, play blades. If you want to shoot a 75 and be really, really boring, play hybrids and GIs. Obviously not literal, but the mind-set. I don't need more precision. I care about the level of my worst shot not my best with anything other than the putter.
Even shorter courses can provide plenty of long iron opportunities. Or their equivalent replacements, LOL.
My "home course" is par 71, 6500 yds from back tees, 6100 from white tees. On the back nine, the par 3 holes are 175 and 196 from whites, 200 and 213 from blues. Both play into prevailing winds. On top of that, the lone par 5 and several of the par 4s are such that a long iron off the tee is the better play, depending on one's length, due to water or OB. I only hit driver on one or two tees on that back nine, and usually, even a 3w isn't ideal.
Just offering an alternate view. ☺️
I think @pinestreetgolf is totally right about long irons. For me, my 4-6 is rarely about shaping a shot. Sometimes I use those to punch out or blast under wind or go off the tee, but generally those are for hitting the ball high and straight. The 7 iron I want to generally hit that way too, but sometimes I want to hit low draw/fade shots or 3/4 shots with the 7 iron, and a lot of my 8-PW shots are not all out swings but are controlled and flighted. This is what has me interested in blades in the short irons and CB in the long irons. Take the approach of Cobra MB/CB flow set or the Mizuno MP20 SEL sets.
I've hit blades easily off of nice fairways and taken just repeatable perfect divots with amazing feel, but I worry a bit about deep rough or scraggy rough/dirt. My general miss is slightly high on the face or out to the toe (but with irons built up +1/4 inch I find center more of the time). I guess I'm looking for affirmation to spend a ton of money to get new sticks that I don't need haha...
There are some Apex MB sets on BST (for instance https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1801952/fs-callaway-mb-iron-set-6-pw-modus-120s-tour-ad-di-7s-with-epic-flash-fw-adapter-vokey-sm-sm7-set#latest)
Just grab some heads and throw them into the short irons and then the investment is less. FWIW I do believe that @pinestreetgolf is very right in the assessment of long clubs. A lot of the guys I play with should not be playing from the back as they are often having to hit long irons for second shots on par 4s. Long par 3s don't really matter as you can tee it up. If I'm playing 6500-6700 yards, I'm not hitting more than an 8 iron into a green for the most part. (I.e second shot is going to be 160-170 max) blades are no issue for me in that regard. 100% they are way more demanding in a 4 iron than something with help. Those who deny this point are simply contradicting themselves as they say blades are superior because of workability etc etc i.e the ability to move the ball (or MISS if this is done unintentionally) is greater. If I'm playing over 7000 yards I'd happily put a 4 hybrid in the bag. That 200-220 range is where you can get in trouble on second shots in and pretty much NO amateur is better off playing a bladed 3 or 4 iron no matter what story they spin.
Rich Text Editor.
To edit a paragraph's style, hit tab to get to the paragraph menu. From there you will be able to pick one style. Nothing defaults to paragraph.
An inline formatting menu will show up when you select text. Hit tab to get into that menu.
Some elements, such as rich link embeds, images, loading indicators, and error messages may get inserted into the editor. You may navigate to these using the arrow keys inside of the editor and delete them with the delete or backspace key.