What is the absolute lowest spinning Driver Head and Shaft (not combo)

I'm a high spin guy and want ultimate in low spin equipment. Please help!

If it doesn’t have to be new stuff SLDR head

shaft probably Hzrdus t1100

This not a simple question because it depends on too many factors. Low MOI heads like the SLDR have the most POTENTIAL spin reduction, but only if they are struck properly. If you want the lowest possible spin then you need to go low MOI and strike high on the face. However, if you struggle with high spin because you tend to strike low on the face then this will be the worst possible option for you as the same thing that gives a low MOI very low spin on high strikes will give it very high spin on low strikes (read up on vertical gear effects to learn more). The other option is lowest possible AVERAGE spin, and for this you will want to go to the opposite end of the spectrum to something like the extremely high MOI PING offerings with the 400 MAX being the highest. High MOI will stabilize your spin numbers more at the expense of the extreme spin reduction that high strikes give you on lower MOI heads.

But the main question still is "why are you high spin?", because if you don't know then we can't give you the best recommendation.

The same goes for shafts. Technically the lowest spin shaft will be the stiffest shaft you can find, but strike location on the head will completely override any spin influence a shaft has so it is far better to pick one that fits your swing that you feel comfortable and tune spin with strike location and head choice.

Nventix Nunchuk about as low spin as they come shaft wise. As far as drivers are concerned anything where you can move multiple weights to the front of the head tend to be absolute spin killers. Mizuno G drivers, Taylor made M3 and M5, etc. When you can move all the weight to the front the spin will drop.

Taylormade SLDR is one of the all-time lowest spinning drivers. If you are looking to kill spin, club head is the most direct and effective way to control spin. Shaft still matters with regard to spin, but not nearly as much as club head.

This should be a sticky.

Post numbers

Shafts themselves are not necessarily low spin, despite what an OEM might want to tell you. As for heads, I've found M5/M3/M1 to be one of the lowest spinning heads you can get.

BUT, with that being said, insert the usual 'post your numbers here' tag because 1) not every player actually needs low spin and 2) you can possibly correct any issues you have by altering strike point and/or AoA. Lastly, with all that said... spin is not a bad thing. It helps stabilize your spin axis and prevents drives from going wayward. Chasing low spin is not how you should spend your time tinkering with clubs unless you already have a good strike location and also high speed to match. Strike point, ie gear effect is going to have a massive influence on your launch conditions.

fix your swing

Get a SLDR 430 9*, and throw a Matrix Black Tie 8m3 xstiff in it. Your high spin will vanish.

Callaway epic sub zero is a low spinning head, worth a try. But agree chasing low spin won’t bring lower scores - too many other variables.

I fully agree with what you write, but like to add a few things ans some illustrations who explains this.

For DRIVERS, Vertical gear effect is the ruler of spin, all other parameters is way down on the list, so the very first to do, is to find Vertical center of gravity on the head we play, and keep track of impact location.

Vertical gear effect works like this:

If we make impact on the spot where we have Vertical center of gravity, we get the spin values SPIN LOFT suggest. That means Dynamic loft and angle of attack is part of the equation.

As soon as we move impact LOWER than VCOG, we involve head twisting. The heads MOI value and the shafts properties gets involved for how much the head twist during impact.

The more the head twist, the higher will vertical gear effect be, so a impact below VCOG ADDs spin, and that the same for impact above VCOG who CUTS OFF spin.

That means a head with LOW MOI value (low resistance to twist), will cut of lots of spin when impact is higher than VCOG, but add tons of spin when impact is below VCOG, and the same heads is anything but forgiving if we make impact on the side of VCOG (Heel top to axis), since we then introduce horizontal gear effects and tilt the ball spin axis to hook or slice, and it dont take much.

IMO the "best" heads is heads where VCOG is rather low on the face, so the effective area above VCOG is as large as possible, but the same head should have a largest possible number for RCOG and HIGH MOI so it reduces head twisting when we dont pure it in the VCOG.

Here is illustration of how VERTICAL gear effect works. and its ONLY a illustration since this will vary from head to head and shaft to shaft, but in my studio i saw a pattern and a average who say that 1/8" higher or lower on the face is equal to 240 Rpms of spin. For short if the player made 3000 Rpms and wanted spin level to get down to 2000, we simply moved impact location 4/8" or 0.5" higher up on the face. There was tons of examples where the same club, shaft and player saw spin numbers in the area of close to 4000, to below 2000, ALL related to where we make impact.

The numbers for LOFT to launch is another illustration of how ROLL works (variable loft depending on height on the face), and no heads is equal here either, so again, dont take it literally, it only explain how it works.

In this chart ive used static loft = Dynamic loft (Neutral angle of attack and NO shaft bending) and a formula of Dynamic loft to launch with the average factor of 0.85*, so this would be equal to the USGA air cannon test where the head is fixed and the ball is shot against the face.

So, heads where COG is close to the face, will have a LOW MOI value and will be easy to twist, and thats no good for DIRECTION even if they can cut of lots of spin, so find a head with a LOW VCOG and LONG RCOG, and make sure you make impact on the upper 1/3 of the face, then your spin values should be under control. For info about how you find VCOG on the head you play, and how to optimize your club and dial in the best impact, follow this link.https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/909991/diy-driver-tune-up-diy-fitting/p1

Modern equipment would be Epic Flash Sub Zero Triple Diamond, Mizuno ST190G, or M5 Tour 8* heads with a Fujikura Evolution TR 757X, Aldila Rogue Silver 130MSI, VA Composites Raijin Black, Tensei Pro Orange, Accra TZ5, or Graphite Design XC, or Project X "Hulk" HZRDUS Green Small Batch 70TX. Choose your favourite feeling bend profile (super stiff butt= 757 & Hulk; Stiff all over = Rogue Silver, Raijin Black; Soft butt = Tensei, XC, or TZ5) and go from there and you will have a monster on your hands.

Older equipment would be SLDR 430 or R9 Superdeep BBLB (the thing had the footprint of an apple behind the ball), Ping i25, Callaway X2Hot Pro or Big Bertha Alpha 815 Triple Diamond, Cobra Speed Pro D or LTD Pro, Cleveland Hibore XL or XLS Monster Tour, and lastly, any of the Covert or Vapor Tour models by Nike.

However, as others have said, it is important to figure out WHY you are high spin, not just searching for a low-spin combo because you are high spin. Are you high spin because you hit down on everything and catch it low on the head? Well, nothing is going to save that unless you get your tilt axis and angle of attack moving more positively. Are you high spin because you have a really open club face or come pretty significantly out-in and hit everything on the heel? Again, no equipment is going to fix that markedly without a shift to a more in-out path and drawing the strike more neutrally on the head.

I haven't found a lower spin shaft than the Project X HZRDUS Smoke Green (Hulk).

I very much appreciate everyone's feedback. Thank you

SLDR 8 degree Tour head paired with Aldila RIP-X. Good luck elevating or spinning that combo.

ATMOS TS Black, Ventus Black and Speeder TR should also be considerations

I ocd over this stuff for the last 2 years. At one point I had 12 drivers and spent 50+ hours on GC2. I'm still a layman compared to some around here but here are the basics of what I found apart from admitting I have a driver/shaft buying problem!

The 3 core ways you can reduce spin are.

Do it properly by hitting the right spot on the head and having good launch conditions.

Or hitting it less hard (not that desirable)

Go down to a lower lofted head and a stiffer shaft flex (not that desirable)

If you don't know these conditions, find someone who does and get on GC2 or TRACKMAN. Lot's of people make a living from teaching golf and many of them are sub standard when it comes to drivers, be careful not to put your trust in people who do not know their art.

If you want the quick and dirty method (of course you do) then the lower in loft and higher in stiffness the better, the problem with this is, getting it to launch can be hard.

I bought a 5 degree callaway x16 long drive head, without changing anything in my swing I dropped loads of spin, but launching it was hard work and in the end it was not worth it because although my spin numbers were good for no effort, it was hitting the ground too soon and seeing as the #1 objective to reduce spin is distance, this was not a solution. But it was fun to try.

So I went down the usual route, epic flash sub zero, LST etc etc, t1100, tz6, va drago etc.

I can tell you now NO BALL/SHAFT/HEAD COMBO in the 9-12 degree range is going to solve a high spin problem. In the history of anything, when has something done badly produced good results?

Golf is basic maths and physics, you cannot ever put bad data in and a get a good number out of it.

So the only real answer is to work on your launch conditions, the other options are really the places you go when you're in denial or incapable of changing and I been there a bunch of times (and still dream of that magic drive and shaft combo) but trust me on this, you're going burn 1000's and come to this conclusion if you don't accept what I told you.

If you want online help.

Footspray on driver so we know strike point.

And some launch data so we know club head speed, once we know that, we can tell you what you can hope to obtain and how far off you and perhaps why.

9/10 high spin is due to a bad attack angle and or strike point on the face.

I

The HZRDUS Smoke Green TX and TM SIM head have produced the lowest spin numbers I've ever had.

A cheap try is an old used Titleist 905s in 7.5 or 8.5. Cut the shaft off. Drill it out 1.5”. Upgrade to a modern shaft and bomb it. You won’t do it though. Not new shiny tech and all....

The thing about spin is how much is optimal for your launch characteristics. And by optimal, I don't just mean distance. The soft courses here in New England require a totally different combination of launch and spin (especially now!) than the firm fairways of Arizona or Texas. I typically launch my driver around 10* and I lose about 10 yds carry distance if my spin is below 2000. On a soggy course, that is substantial!

I CAN increase my launch by increasing AoA, but then I'm making a considerably different swing with my driver than all my other clubs. However, if I go visit my folks down in Texas in July and go play there, I can gain a lot of distance by cutting my spin and getting the extra roll-out. This is one of the reasons I can't have just one driver, even if it's adjustable. At least, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

I guess my best recommendation for a versatile driver would be the King LTD Pro. I can crank it down to 7*, but I have to tee the ball about 4" high and move it way the heck up in my stance to launch it. Only do that for the occasional Best Ball tournament and generally suffer getting my swing back to normal afterwards. I typically keep it at 9.5-10* and make my normal swing. It gives me enough spin to get good carry when that's what a course requires.

BT

F6+ with the weight all the way forward would possibly be the lowest I've tried even compared to SLDR

I made a super low spin M3 that played at 45”, 3 weights in the head and an XS Tensei White. But that was low spinning for me. Like everyone else has said, it’s specific to an individual’s swing if any combo is low spinning or not.

Ok, so there's a lot of information in this thread and lots of opinion and some overkill.

The OP asked a pretty simple question, what's the lowest spin combo you can get. I live in that world too and always have. He didn't ask for the analysis on if he needed it. Granted, it's not necessary an easy question to give one answer for but...

There's LOTS of opinions on launch and spin. Some people LOVED the sldr driver because it was the first time high spin players could get into a more ideal launch window and it was GREAT. And to this day, if you can consistently hit that 16/1600 marketing number, you will see some well optimized drives. some people struggled with it because either they didn't have the swing speed or spin to begin with, or they never raised the loft to optimize launch. But we digress.

The sldr 430 head is really good at killing spin, it's probably the king. I still think to this day I hit some of my longest drives ever with that club. And unlike others, an occasional toe hit that had a 1400 spin rate was fine, I never had the control issues others complained about. On the newer side, The epic flash sub is good, the 410lst is good, Sim is good for some, even the new pxg prototype looks promising. Most of the new low spin options are similar and more a personal fit question.

On the shaft side, the hulk t1100 is great, 70 gram weight. The tensei white in the same weight is pretty close. The fujikura pro spec 2.0 was pretty stout too. Those are the best I've seen on average.

Good luck!

I would definitely disagree on the "overkill" comment if that was related to either Howard's or my posts based purely on the fact that someone suffering from high spin due to strike issues will be the WORST served by a driver any SLDR variant. Lots of people have opinions on launch and spin, but there are objective facts that cut through all of that that warrant understanding and explanation. Low MOI drivers like the SLDR are objectively the worst possible solution to high spin if the source of said high spin is related to strike quality. So the OP asked a simple question, but one without a simple answer.

Interesting that no one brought up the TS4 head as an option. Currently gaming one and love it. Seeing places on my local courses I've never seen before off the tee...

Senior golfers in eternally wet SWFL - I need to lower my driver ball flight.  Gaming an MGlorie TM, 10.5 Reg shaft. Lovely high flight...negative roll

So I'm looking for a backup for  few months, used, not $$$$

Thinking about Ping 9 and Cleveland Hibore XL 9.5

Suggestions?

Thanks