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Swing weight reduction - is there a simple easy DYI process?


wcdixon

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Recently picked up a new set of Callaway Steelhead XR 5-PW irons with Accra i123 shafts online for a song (which was sweet) but after I received I swear they'd been custom fitted for someone who decided they didn't like and traded in as the tips were trimmed or hard stepped resulting in minimal tapering near the clubheads, extra weighty feel (D4-D5), and seem stiffer than a regular (feel like an M3+). That said have been hitting them pretty decent with a firm deliberate swing, albeit indoors, so don't want to muck about with them too much too prematurely.

Question is: would love to reduce the overall weighty feel a little (but not make the shafts any stiffer)...would cutting 1/3 of an inch,say, off the butt of each iron and replacing the 47g Golf Pride MCC grips with, for example, Tour Pride 2G Wrap Mid grips which are about 10 grams heavier, do the trick? Or will that not really reduce swing weight enough to notice and make shafts stiffer and throw off torque and kickpoint and all these things that are new to me never having used graphite shafts before haha.

Thanks in advance...everyone's advice on here has always been helpful.

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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Don't need to cut off the butt ends....just choke down about 1/2" and that will give you the same feel of a lower SW.

If you need the extra length then you will need to remove the heads and see if they have tip weights that then can be changed.

Changing grips will change the feel of the clubhead.

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Few options for swingweight reduction:

1 - shorten the heads

2 - add weight to butt end of club, either via heavier grip or counterweight in the butt of the grip

3 - remove weight from clubheads...by grinding or changing weights in head

Option 1 doesn't change the static weight of the clubs, but the overall balance will be effected. Option 2 will change the total weight (heavier). Option 3 is hard with irons especially if you don't want to mess around with them too much.

 

Have you checked the length? They might turn out to be a touch over standard...swingweight is very sensitive to overall club length. If I were you I would look at that first before anything else, or Option 2 if you're happy with the lengths. FYI, 1/2" club length is equivalent to 15 grams of weight in the grip, or 6 grams in the head.

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Thanks Gentles...very solid advice. A couple questions: 1) when you say shorten the heads i presume mean taking off grip and trimming butt of shaft? Apparently these Accra shafts aren't easily pulled and need to be done by an accredited Accra club fitter or something. I did ask the club/shaft guy at local Golftown and he said he wouldn't even try for fear of screwing them up.

2) where does one measure shaft down to when attached to a clubhead? I assume down to little round bore through hole at base of hosel...and if so my 5 iron measured 38.25 inches which matches standard specs.

That said thanks for giving weight numbers. i'm liking idea of removing say 1/3 of an inch from butt of shaft to lose 12grams of weight and adding a 6-8 gram heavier mid size grip to increase counter balance and hopefully reduce overall heavy-ish swing weight feel of them - maybe try on just one club first.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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Yes I was referring to trimming from butt end. Means you will need new grips. If you were to take off 1/4" + install grips 10 grams heavier you would decrease SW by approx 3-4 points which might get into a range where it feels a bit more manageable.

Definitely try it on one club first...worst case is you can always add an extension to get the club back to normal.

I use a metal ruler and measure along the back of the club from the base of the hosel to the grip cap. The overall length doesn't matter, what is more important is how it compares to what you were using prior.

Do bear in mind that swing weight is only one measure of how a club feels in your hands. Hypothetically you could add 100 grams to the grip and the swing weight would be the same as a womens club, but it would feel like a sledgehammer in your hands. Focus on what feels good to you rather than targeting a number. Good luck!

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This is so helpful thank you...the world of shafts and hybrids and kick points and grip weights and such so different from when I last bought clubs. And measured shafts of my old irons (Callaway X-12's...very similar to Steelhead XR's) and interestingly they were all 1/3 inch shorter than new XR's.

So I think I will try cutting a bit off butt of 5 iron (since I bought a 22 degree GAPR HI hybrid which should work from that loft standpoint) and adding slightly heavier grip and see how it feels. Even feeling a little lighter in my hands should take away some of the psychological distraction that they seem heavy, even though I was striking them solid indoors. Thanks!

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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Is this feel if head weight the same for ALL clubs in the set? (#9 and PW too?)

Normally reducing play lengths is not a good idea to fix a head weight issue, but there is exceptions to that, and that is to modify the set to 3/8" between clubs, but it demand a #9 iron thats good as it is.

If even the #9 iron is over and beyond, only a head weight reduction can fix this. The heads most likely has tip weights added, but nobody can tell or how much. Reducing head weight WILL make the shafts to play stiffer, but again, it depend on how much reduction thats needed, and if you are able to feel that. Going shorter (also the 3/8" route), takes down SW, and makes the shafts play stiffer.

Adding weight butt side DONT work, you only add total weight to a club that already feels to heavy. This works for putters only, not on other clubs, and dont mix adding weight grip side with Counterbalanced shafts, its NOT the same thing, since CW weighted shafts is a redistribution of the same weight, not added weight.

So, ask yourself how the #9 and PW feels? if they are too heavy, you should pull the heads and look for tip weights. Head weight can be reduced even if there is no tip weights. We do that by hosel drilling but it demand some tools like a hosel fixture and a drill press. We can as a rule of thumb remove up to 10 grams with the right equipment, but if its only 3-5 grams, we can do that with a vise and a free hand drilling.

 

Here is a small hosel drilling chart so you can see what it takes to remove weight by hosel drilling, but we need to know where we wants to go. (but i expect removal of tip weight might do it)

If hosel drilling becomes the solution, we always start with a small drill bit size and go up in steps. Down to 3/8" is safe to do without a hosel fixture and drill press, but deeper is not. (with the widest drill bit we can use who is 5/16" so we keep insert for the shaft as it was. 5/16" = 0.3125)

 

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DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Forget the heavier grip - or save it as a last resort. The last thing you want to do to a club that feels heavy is add more weight. And despite what the swing weight scale might tell you, the heavier grip does not make the head act any lighter. It has little effect on the actual MOI of the club (which is what the swing weight scale was intended to approximate) and in fact the little effect it has is to increase MOI, not reduce it.

 

Now I say save it as a last resort because the general effect of counterbalancing on what you feel is very unpredictable. So while it's unlikely to help, it's not impossible that it might. But keep in mind, if you do ever want to experiment with counterbalancing, you don't want to change the size of the grip IF the current size is correct for you. Maintaining a proper fit for grip size is just as important as getting the total and swing weight fit properly. Don't compromise one for the other.

 

Addressing swing weight issues with length is certainly valid but if they were a custom build first it would be good to know what that the actual playing lengths are. Is it an over length set or a more standard length set?

If they are over length (and you don't fit into an over length set) then length certainly is the best way to address the issue.

If they aren't over length and the swing weight is that high, than there is a very good possibility that some type of tip weighting was used and the best way to reduce the swing weight is to have that added weight removed. Yes it's more work (or money if you can't do the work itself) since it means removing and reinstalling the heads, but it's the much better course of action in the long run.

 

The main concern with shortening the set if they are not over length is that the shortest irons can end up being too short for you and causing posture issues. The long irons shouldn't be a problem though and the heavier swing weight tends to be more problematic with the longer irons. That means changing to a shorter length progression between irons might be a good approach, say 3/8" between irons instead of the typical 1/2". e.g. remove 1/8" from the 9 iron, 1/4" from the 8 iron, 3/8" from the 7 iron, etc... The swing weight of the longer irons would be reduced more than the shorter but many find that a good thing as it gives a set that is closer to being a true MOI match.

 

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More helpful advice...thank you. Each club is standard specs length but are about 1/3 inch longer than my old set, so doing a shorter length progression down the irons makes a lot of sense. No idea if tip weighting was used and apprehensive of yanking these shafts so look at that as a last resort. And as for grip size I do prefer a midsize grip over standard (my old irons had mid-sized put on a few years ago) but understand it will just add weight. Thanks again!

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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Great advice thank you...a lot of you sure know your way around shafts and club building/fitting on this site. Each new club is standard specs length but are about 1/3 inch longer than my old set, so doing a shorter length progression down the irons makes a lot of sense. No idea if tip weighting was used and apprehensive of yanking these shafts or hosel drilling since I've found no one around my area who seems experienced working with Accra shafts, so look at that as a last resort. And as for grip size I do prefer a midsize grip over standard (my old irons had mid-sized put on a few years ago) but understand it will just add weight. Thanks again!

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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Use the grips you want, its a important club specs, so dont compromise on grips.

If they are longer than needed, try to "tape down" play length on the shortest clubs, and see what happens to feel of head weight. That will tell you if shorter is good to play, and if it makes feel of head weight good by that alone. Then you get to know "what happens if...." and that goes for both play length itself, feel of head weight, AND feel of flex caused by it all.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Now looking up how to 'tape down' play length of clubs - never heard this expression before...sounds like a good test. Thank you.

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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Any idea if these were a custom build by Callaway? Not sure if Callaway irons have serial numbers stamped on the hosel. If yes, you could call Callaway customer service and if hey built them, they can tell you if the custom build included tip weights. If yes, then likely the best way to reduce SW is to pull heads, remove weights and reinstall the heads on the ACCRA shafts. If it must be an ACCRA dealer, there is a club builder in S Ohio who is an ACCRA dealer, he might be able to do this. Your profile doesn't list your location, so not sure if OH makes any sense. The guy at Golftown may have just been giving you a line because he didn't want to do it, IMHO.

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Ping G425 SFT 3 & 5, Distanza SR

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Cleveland Launcher XL 6-PW, Projext X Catalyst 60 R

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Evnroll ER10 34" Winn ProX 1.18 grip

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if those clubs is 3/8" longer than STD, and you want to test STD, set a piece of tape on the grip butt who covers 3/8 " of the top like that part was already cut of, lower your hands below the tape. test the club ...We use the tape to get a measure mark so we grip the club the same for several strokes so we prevent variable play length during testing.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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1/3" is barely noticeable. I'm keying my response off your comment saying you've been hitting them pretty decent and here's why. I play my clubs at D6 currently, but I've only been doing it for a few years. Prior to that, I SW'd them all at D2 and thought I was happy...... Until I happened to try a club once that was heavier. Hit it pretty well and it really smoothed out my tempo. I checked the SW and found it was D6. I decided to change a set of my clubs to D6 to see what affect it would have on my game and endurance. Well, all I can say is ALL of my clubs are now at D6 and I couldn't be happier. Scores have improved and making it through a round is no more difficult now than it was before.

I say play the irons as they are for a while and see what the affects are. You may find they suit you better than what you currently have!

BT

 

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Yeah I hear you and should probably just do that first...feel in exact same boat having swung D2 irons for 20 years and got used to them and hit them okay so just assumed that was right swing weight for me, but maybe D4 and a little stiffer was more on the money (never been fitted). I guess just that am getting older and presume I won't be able to keep my swing speed up (Driver 94mph...6 iron 82 mph) so figure lightening the clubs a touch would be a good thing. I will try to be patient haha. Thanks.

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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I will look when I get home...can't remember if serial numbers on hosel or not but almost certain it had to be a custom build - would be nice to find out for sure by calling and will if serial numbers. Am up in small city in mid-west Canada so Ohio doesn't make much sense haha...but appreciate the info. Thanks.

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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While ACCRA is based in CN, not many dealers, in mid west CN, one in Alberta and one in Saskatchewan. If you have a small club repair in you area, they might take on the task of pulling heads.

Ping G400 Max 10.5° Distanza SR

Ping G425 SFT 3 & 5, Distanza SR

Ping G30 4H R

Cleveland Launcher XL 6-PW, Projext X Catalyst 60 R

Cleveland CBX Zipcore 50°, Project X Catalyst 80 R

Cleveland CBX 56° Full Face, Project X Catalyst 80 R

Evnroll ER10 34" Winn ProX 1.18 grip

Srixon Soft Feel

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I'm 56 and will tell you straightup, it's the swing, not the age.

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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Copy that...thanks for explaining.

Ping G410 12 degree at 11* Alta CB 55 soft reg

Sim 2 Max 3 HL 16.5* Ventus Blue 5A

Callaway Steelhead XR 7w 21* - Tensei CK Series 55 reg

Stealth 5 hybrid at 25* Ventus Red 5A  

Callaway Mavrik Pro 6i-AW - UST Recoil ES 760 SmacWrap f3

Titleist SM7 52*W, 56*W - Vista Pro reg graphite

White Hot R-Ball 35"

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