Shaft repair experiment

Cleaning out some old gear I found a Project X shaft from an old Bio Cell driver. I still have the driver. The shaft broke about 1/2 in up from the adaptor.

How would the characteristics of the shaft change if I put a new adaptor and a shaft extension to bring the shaft back to it's original length ?

It's a senior flex shaft now.

If the adapter is about .75" and it broke .5" up - you've basically 'tipped' the shaft 1.25" which is fairly substantial - it will play roughly as an R+ flex and have a stiffer tip feeling.

This differs from shaft to shaft though so its not gospel.

Thanks, Is there some type of formula for determining what you came up with. Like for every .25 inches you add X to the flex.

Or even if you cut X off the tip you need to add Y to the butt end. What if I only added a half of what was cut of the tip

Once you cut from the tip the damage is done and you can’t counteract that stiffness by adding to the butt. Butt trimming is just for length and swingweight, not flex.

the “general” rule is every 1” of shaft tip removal makes the shaft play about one flex or JUST UNDER one flex stiffer. Basically hard stepping since you’d be putting a fairway shaft into a driver. (Based on tip trim Specs) but again this is not gospel but is mostly correct

The Dr. Frankenstein in me says.... 'There's one way to find out"

Third Times basically nailed it and like he said that is a general term. A lot depends on the individual shaft itself and the weight of the club head itself. Like usual I agree with my old buddy Arch there as if you never know until you try it. Arch and myself are from the same Classic Dr Frankenstein school of golf.

Sorry but i have to correct you here....

We CANT make a S flex shaft to play like its stiffer X flex brother from the same model.

Graphite normally respond with with only 1 CPM stronger for each 2/8" of tip trim (same net shaft length, or 2/8"less tip and 2/8" more butt if you like)

There is no standard for how large the difference is from S to X, but if we use the rule of thumb for irons and 10 CPM, we needed 10 x 2/8" to get butt CPM equal. = 2.5" inch.

Most Grafalloy and PX models only have a 3.0" long tip section. Standard insert is 1.25" so if the ferrule dont add any length to the connector, we can as a max tip trim 1.75"

In this case, 1.25" insert plus 0.5" inch above where the shaft broke up moves us there, so the OP would have to measure tip diameter and see if he has tip enough left for full insert.

We can in extreme cases SHIM up the tip, but we should never go below 1.0" as minimum insert.

We have as another general guideline for tip trim on woods that 0.5" tip trim is the need for each 10 gram head weight we go up. That will keep the profile and feel of flex, but measured butt flex go softer in most profiles, but we should NOT judge woods and changes by butt CPM alone, that might mislead us bad, so use 1/16 for each 1.25 grams as a rule of thumb. If the actual shaft now has 1.75" or 1 6/8" shorter tip section, we have 14 x 1.25 = 17.5 grams. or as butt CPM 7 CPM if we get 1 CPM for each 2/8" like we normally does as average. So, 1 inch tip trim is only 4 CPM or 40% of one full flex, but if we tip trim to the max, the profile has changed and would not feel like its stronger brother of the same model, and as measure butt CPM we cant get there unless the tip section is 4.0" or longer.

It's going to be more than that. Most adapters have a bore depth of at least 1-1/8" but more likely 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" or even more. Add another 1/2" and you're looking at closer to 2" of tipping. And as Howard mentioned, getting very close to or exceeding the parallel tip section for any new installation.

It's a super cheap experiment. I say do it and go give it a wack. If it won't fit because of the parallel tip section or just feels like crap, no real loss other than the hour you spent on it.

What Adam said. The shaft is already toast.......give it a try and see how she plays. All the other posts are predictions.

Got a point, pricing a tip and an extension on eBay $5, what do I got to lose. Besides it's winter got nothing better do to. Might actually be fun

Just might put the tip on, and see how that works before the extension.

Now you're talking! Great information from Howard as usual. I would never doubt what he has to say about technical stuff because he is always right. But if you've got the time to do it, why not give it a shot and see for yourself. Chalk it up to hands on learning. It's like a criminal in a Dirty Harry movie. Sometimes you, "Just Gots to Know"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYgRVMxjLhchttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYgRVMxjLhc

There are plenty of hypotheses on this site, but I always prefer actual experimentation. Everyone is different and will respond differently to changes in the equipment they use. What works or feels right to one person may feel completely wrong and never feel right for another.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

That shaft might be better saved for a 3 wood experiment. Older PX graphite shafts are cheap enough that going frankenstein on a driver with near 2" of tipping is unlikely to be worth the hassle.

got nothing to lose, and like others said cheap experiment, give it a go

Ordered a tip and a butt off eBay total price $5.50

It will take a while but I will let everyone know what happens.