Faceplate removal challenge

 Jgb333 ·  
Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
Joined:  in Hickory, Persimmon and Classic Clubs #1

I was just given this hickory bulldog from a friend. It has a few major problems ( cracked hosel and shaft to name a few ) I want to embark on a major restoration and the first step for me is to remove the face and sole plate to reset. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove these nails without damaging the faceplate? The nails can be destroyed b/c I plan on getting new ones but the faceplate needs to be saved.


Posted:
Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
5w: Ping G30 reg stock
Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
1

Comments

  • teevonsteevons Members  2214WRX Points: 179Posts: 2,214 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #2

    I would cut through them with a saw then screw out with flat head screw driver and replace insert with new.

    I have some black fiber if needed

    You could also dam the head with puddy and pour black epoxy for new insert

    Posted:
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  • MaxwellMaxwell Max Members  718WRX Points: 111Handicap: 15Posts: 718 Golden Tee
    Joined:  edited Jan 23, 2020 6:03pm #3

    Teevons has a good idea.....or carefully remove the sole plate noting where each sole plate screw came from. Then heat up a slot head screw driver and place in the slot of the last face screw and ....repeat. Then, secure the club head(face up) between two rubber pads in the vice and apply pressure down on the last face screw and back it out. How much downward pressure? Just enough to start the face screw turning and then complete the backing out process. . I would then use a heating gun(medium heat) on the vulcanized fibre face insert and using two wedge like tools placed at the top of the insert and at the bottom of the face insert, gently pry up the insert. Even heat is important and even lifting pressure is too. For me, patience is the key. Don't rush the job.

    Blair

    Canada

    Posted:
    "One Day At a Time"
  • ebeerebeer Swing Hickory! Members  289WRX Points: 76Posts: 289 Greens
    Joined:  #4

    Even if you get that face plate off in one piece it's still full of holes...a lot of them! You can fill with hardwood dowels instead of a complex of screws, but I'd opt for replacing the insert. A new one from Teevons will allow you some flexibility in dealing with those nasty nails and give you some freedom to use less screws (or dowels) through the insert, in a nice pleasing pattern. Just my $.02. Please post progress pics, this looks really fun.

    Posted:
    • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
    • Cochrane Mid Iron, Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
    • Putters: Morristown, Standard Mills, Tom Stewart - depends if I want to miss right or left ;)
    • NorCal Hickory - Pacific Hickory - StymieMagnet (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
  • James the Hogan FanJames the Hogan Fan Members  1070WRX Points: 711Handicap: 12Posts: 1,070 Platinum Tees
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    You could also use black ABS plastic, as I have here: https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1807202/ginty-insert#latest


    But otherwise you could do as suggested (Slotting the nailheads) or you could (if you have a small dremel tool) grind away the nails and grab the shafts with vise-grips.

    Posted:
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  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
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    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #7

    Update...

    news flash...I’m an idiot

    turns out the nails were not nails but wooden dowels. Once the slotted faceplate and soleplate screws were removed I was able to carefully pry the face right off in one piece, leaving the dowels fairly intact. I’m assuming the dowels were original and the screws were added later?

    my thoughts are as follows:

    1. remove the dowels completely, reset the face, fill the dowel holes with black epoxy and install new brass screws....poly
    2. keep the dowels in place, reset the face, use some wood fill to bring the dowel holes flush, new brass screws...poly
    3. remove dowels, dam the face and pour a new epoxy face
    4. buy new insert material from a kind soul here and shape it by hand...maybe add face screws for aesthetic purposes

    the face is completely flat and has no bulge & roll



    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
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  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #8

    any feedback?

    im looking to locate some new faceplate material

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • raggal62raggal62 Members  634WRX Points: 142Handicap: 4Posts: 634 Golden Tee
    Joined:  #9

    I don't know if you're comfortable or capable of casting a new epoxy insert but that is the route I would go. I would leave the dowels and replace the missing and broken ones. Reset the soleplate w. epoxy and build the dam with Mortite putty. Pour the insert and when cured shave the face down exposing the dowels. Should look more original than the other options.

    Posted:
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #10

    I’m not comfortable but probably capable. I’ve never done it before. Is there a special type of epoxy or do I just use a 24 hour cure stuff?

    if someone could provide basic instructions that would be great

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • raggal62raggal62 Members  634WRX Points: 142Handicap: 4Posts: 634 Golden Tee
    Joined:  #11

    Casting resin is the epoxy you use, not shafting epoxy. I believe nowadays it's only available in clear but pigment can be added.

    Not sure if any YouTube tutorials are out there. Ralph Maltby's "Golf Club Repair in Pictures" is a great learning tool if you can find a copy.

    Posted:
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #12

    Thanks for the info...that’s definitely an option. Is there anyone on this forum who has inserts?

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
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  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #13

    You mean this book ?

    I got it !



    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • teevonsteevons Members  2214WRX Points: 179Posts: 2,214 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #14

    AS I said before I have the insert material, that is huge insert, you will never find one to fit that, you will have to cut the piece to fit.

    Posted:
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #15

    sent teevons a pm

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • robert hornemanrobert horneman ClubWRX  1073WRX Points: 109Posts: 1,073 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #16

    The insert is in decent shape. I suggest removing the ugly screw. I doubt that it was original. Clean the screw holes then fill them with black epoxy. You may want to replace all of the dowels.You can either put wood dowels where the screws were or leave them blank. I would not replace the screw holes with dowels. The insert and soleplate need to be removed and reset.

    The hard part of this project will be rescoring the face lines.

    Posted:
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #17

    Thanks for the feedback. I was seriously considering pouring a new face with casting epoxy. Your route seems much easier. The screws are absolutely not original and I would completely eliminate them. Thinking about removing the old dowels, resetting the face and then putting new dowels in after the face is reset. Then I would sand down any exposed dowels and then stain them.

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
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  • robert hornemanrobert horneman ClubWRX  1073WRX Points: 109Posts: 1,073 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #18

    Exactly.

    Posted:
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #19

    In case anyone is interested I have a few updates on the restoration process. I was able to reset the shaft. I opened the cracks up with small nails and paper clips. I then applied 24 hour set epoxy and placed 3 vices on the shaft over tape. After it sat for 48 hours I removed the vices and tape and I am now in the process of sanding down the excess epoxy and high spots. I’ve read that the epoxy will hold no problem....we’ll see

    i have new faceplate material on the way from a fellow golfwrxer.



    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • ebeerebeer Swing Hickory! Members  289WRX Points: 76Posts: 289 Greens
    Joined:  #20

    Nice work so far. Epoxy should hold just fine. I'm convinced that modern adhesives are stronger than natural wood fiber. And given the location of split, you might find the epoxy joint will torque less too. I think when this is all said and done you'll have not only beautiful club, but one that is better suited for play (particularly with a modern golf ball) than it was a century ago when new. Fun project, thanks for sharing.

    Posted:
    • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
    • Cochrane Mid Iron, Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
    • Putters: Morristown, Standard Mills, Tom Stewart - depends if I want to miss right or left ;)
    • NorCal Hickory - Pacific Hickory - StymieMagnet (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #21

    Update,

    using first a bench grinder, then file, then sandpaper I shaped and fit the insert. Using the old face I marked the dowel holes are carefully drilled new ones. I used progressively larger drill bits. The new dowel material was having trouble sitting correctly in the old holes so I had to call an audible. I figured with modern epoxy the dowels are just aesthetic so I dropped some lead and epoxy into the original holes and cut very short dowel pieces that just sat in the top of the insert. After everything set I sanded any exposed dowel material flush to the face.

    its my guess that this is probably the original look. I’m considering not scoring grooves in the face, I think I like it smooth.


    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • ebeerebeer Swing Hickory! Members  289WRX Points: 76Posts: 289 Greens
    Joined:  edited Feb 2, 2020 4:34pm #22

    Really nice repair! When you color and finish it's going to be a beauty. If you decide to score lines, a simple way to accomplish a period accurate pattern is to buy a 6" carriage bolt or length of threaded rod. Steady the club face up in a vice, then use the rod to score lines. Push firmly with both hands, and move slowly with your first pass to make the initial dig in. Then subsequent passes (will only take a few) and you'll have nice parallel lines that are close together, and don't go too deep.


    Posted:
    • Various Brassies depending on mood: Scottish and UK made
    • Cochrane Mid Iron, Tom Stewart: Mongrel, Jigger, Mashie, Mashie Niblick, Niblick
    • Putters: Morristown, Standard Mills, Tom Stewart - depends if I want to miss right or left ;)
    • NorCal Hickory - Pacific Hickory - StymieMagnet (100% hickory golf photos on Instagram)
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  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #23

    Interesting idea on the bolt. My concern would be that the insert would be too hard to make a impression

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #24

    I’m onto to the finishing stages. The shaft was really warped so it’s taken a long time to almost straighten it. This photo only represents the first coat of spar poly


    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • raggal62raggal62 Members  634WRX Points: 142Handicap: 4Posts: 634 Golden Tee
    Joined:  #25

    Looking very nice!!!

    Posted:
  • No_Catchy_NicknameNo_Catchy_Nickname Kyushu,_JapanMembers  6073WRX Points: 1,290Handicap: mePosts: 6,073 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  #26

    Wow, nice work.

    Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm not at all knowledgeable about hickory clubs. Does the shaft fit into the hosel? It doesn't appear to be inserted in the same way a steel shaft is; how are the head and shaft joined in hickory-era clubs?

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Tour 65S
    4w: TaylorMade R9 stock Fujikura Motore X flex
    7w TaylorMade V-steel, Quadra Fire Express RB 6SX
    Hybrid: RomaRo iBrid 23* Attas EZ 85S
    Irons (4i-PW): Mizuno MP4 Attas 115X 4-PW (+0.5")
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX4 Forged 52* and 58*, DGS400 (both at 35.5")
    Putter: Mac Jack Nicklaus Muirfield/Taylormade TPA XVIII/Wilson 8802

    Old stuff: Tons of persimmon and older irons. 
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  • raggal62raggal62 Members  634WRX Points: 142Handicap: 4Posts: 634 Golden Tee
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    Nice, especially considering what you started with.

    Posted:
  • Jgb333Jgb333 Members  293WRX Points: 58Posts: 293 Greens
    Joined:  #29

    Thanks

    i really appreciate that !

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Max 10.5 reg stock
    5w: Ping G30 reg stock
    Hybrid: Ping G25 23 reg stock
    Irons: Mizuno MP-54 kbs tour 110 reg
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX 4 raw 50 / 56
    Putter: Ping anser dalehead 1967
  • teevonsteevons Members  2214WRX Points: 179Posts: 2,214 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #30
    Posted:
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  • No_Catchy_NicknameNo_Catchy_Nickname Kyushu,_JapanMembers  6073WRX Points: 1,290Handicap: mePosts: 6,073 Titanium Tees
    Joined:  #31

    Wow, nice job. What a transformation!

    Posted:
    Driver: Ping G400 Tour 65S
    4w: TaylorMade R9 stock Fujikura Motore X flex
    7w TaylorMade V-steel, Quadra Fire Express RB 6SX
    Hybrid: RomaRo iBrid 23* Attas EZ 85S
    Irons (4i-PW): Mizuno MP4 Attas 115X 4-PW (+0.5")
    Wedges: Cleveland RTX4 Forged 52* and 58*, DGS400 (both at 35.5")
    Putter: Mac Jack Nicklaus Muirfield/Taylormade TPA XVIII/Wilson 8802

    Old stuff: Tons of persimmon and older irons. 

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