First build

Ok, so I am super novice at this. I have a set of irons that I am trying to basically just change the ferrules. I started by pulling just one head to try first so that If I screw everything up I can still play. Anyway, for you experienced club builders when you are installing the shaft into the head how much play is acceptable? It makes sense that there will be some so there is space for epoxy, but how much wiggle room is ok? Just fyi this is the original shaft that was in the head, so I know it is the correct tip size?

These are taper tip shafts. I was wondering if I need to sort of drive the shaft into the head?

One more question, How much epoxy do you use? I may not have used enough epoxy either.

You should be able to twirl the head around (while dry fit) on the shaft fairly easily, but not so easily that there feels like there is a ton of room and the head is wobbling all over the place. As far as epoxy goes... you almost can't use too much because any extra will get pushed out when you push the head down. Generally the ferrule fit will be tight so when I have the glue on the shaft and in the hosel area... I slide the head down then hold the head in one head and "tap" the butt end on the ground, which forces the ferrule down as far as it needs go to, and seats the shaft down the bore. I also spin the head around on the shaft a bunch of times to make sure the coating of glue is even.

I'm not a professional builder or whatever, but I have done plenty of sets... I built every club in my bag minus putter and the hybrid & so far, no issues. Make sure every surface is 100% clean and free from dirt, oils, etc. Use good epoxy. Guys like Howard are pro's and measure every little fine detail imaginable, so they are probably the best people to give details instructions and info. I'm pretty sure he weighs his epoxy.... I just know from experience about how much I need.

Thank you. Do you find there is a little wobble in the dry fit heads? I am just trying to gauge things. I am really pretty in-equipped for this. I have zero club building tools other than the epoxy and the wire brush for cleaning out the hosel. I figure to basically pull and reinstall shafts, I really didn't need much, but I want it right.

I've found some head/shaft combos have more "wiggle" than others.

For a taper tip you really want to make sure it's full seated so don't be afraid to turn the club upside down and tap the butt end on the ground to make sure it is fully bottomed out.

Thanks, That is kind of what I was thinking. I didnt drive it down. I glued it up but I am going to pull it apart again tonight and try again.

A little wiggle is okay and epoxy will fill the spaces, but the bigger issue is that the shaft will lean when sitting to dry if you just leave it leaning against a wall so that all of a sudden you now have a 2 degree upright lie angle for example from where you started. If the space is big enough where you can notice an angle between the shaft and hosel, you probably want to shim it.

Also, you should not use too much epoxy. It's a bad habit to load epoxy in the hosel and on the shaft. Especially bad with graphite shafts as the epoxy squeezes into the shaft hole and travels far up inside it. Should only use enough epoxy to coat the surfaces with a small amount. If big globs squeeze out when you put the club together, you are using too much.

Thanks. I think what I am seeing would fall under a little wiggle. I just was not sure what to expect.

If you're talking about when you're just dry fitting, yes a hint of wiggle is okay. It is a taper tip after all. Its tough... like... Club building is one of those things where you really just learn by experience, and unfortunately trial and error. Your best learnings will come from when you fail... luckily it's just a club and not something more "serious".

As far as tools... if all you have is a wire brush and epoxy, you still need a few other things for doing steel in an iron (imo). It really will help if you have a torch/heat gun and either a really good sharp blade or some high grit sand paper. Since you're taking the club apart now, you will have old dried epoxy on the shaft tip and in the bore of the club. ALLLLL that needs to get removed, and just having a wire brush is going to leave you a bit frustrated and may not clean it all up. For inside the bore, I do my first pass cleaning with a wire brush bit inside my drill... then I roll up some sand paper and get the rest of the bore. For any little chunks glued to the bottom of the bore, I'll carefully use a soft drill bit tip, to chip it out. Then, Q tips with acetone to get all the resdue out. For the shaft, I use a blade to scrape the epoxy away, but sometimes a bit of it will get really stubburn, so I'll heat it up with a torch for a second which will loosen it up (don't do that to graphite!). Then I use some light sand paper to just clean any last bits up and to rough up the surface a bit. Same thing... acetone after.

I do have a torch. and sand paper. Sorry, I should have been more clear. I have a large tool box full of general tools. Hammers, drills, screw drivers, box knives.. you get the deal. I just don't have anything golf specific.

Then you're all set, you don't need anything special to do steel.

Ok cool.

You know how to do the ferrules? Turning them down/finishing them?

Thats the only tricky part.

I have watched some youtube videos.

This is one I did if you don't have a belt sander. Works every bit as well.https://youtu.be/M5dUdkipABY

As @Z1ggy16 mentioned be sure to drill the epoxy out of the shaft tip before you install. This is very important to prevent trapping air in the hosel which will tend to push the shaft back out. LOL I have sometimes forgotten until I am trying to glue up the club and then I have to clean the shaft tip off and drill it out while the epoxy is all mixed up. Don't do that! Also you can buy club making epoxy with beads in it to help with clearance issue between the hosel and the shaft. https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-maximum-strength-tour-set-plus-beaded-epoxy/p/vb1014/

Thanks. I did get that exact epoxy. Where I messed up, is that I order it in a tube that you need to use a gun. It did not come with plungers. I can make it work but is not ideal. Oh well, live and learn. Will do better next time.

If you haven’t already, watch Ryan Barath’s YouTube videos. I just started building irons and learned a lot from his videos. Don’t expect to get it perfect on the first try. It takes some experience, failures and successes.

I did the same thing, I don't remember what I used but it seemed to work okay! I did get some plungers later on though.

I don’t have a belt sander and that is exactly the method I settled on after some trial and error. With a little practice, you can get quite good results.

On 5/21/2020 at 10:21 AM, Adam C said:

A little wiggle is okay and epoxy will fill the spaces, but the bigger issue is that the shaft will lean when sitting to dry if you just leave it leaning against a wall so that all of a sudden you now have a 2 degree upright lie angle for example from where you started. If the space is big enough where you can notice an angle between the shaft and hosel, you probably want to shim it.

Also, you should not use too much epoxy. It's a bad habit to load epoxy in the hosel and on the shaft. Especially bad with graphite shafts as the epoxy squeezes into the shaft hole and travels far up inside it. Should only use enough epoxy to coat the surfaces with a small amount. If big globs squeeze out when you put the club together, you are using too much.

Adam - Is there a common solution to the problem of ending up with upright lie angles after leaning on the wall during curing?  I'm a novice club builder and I cannot find a good solution for how to position the club while it is curing?  This is especially important for me because I play irons 2-3* flat from standard.

46 minutes ago, Joelandrewrogers said:

Adam - Is there a common solution to the problem of ending up with upright lie angles after leaning on the wall during curing?  I'm a novice club builder and I cannot find a good solution for how to position the club while it is curing?  This is especially important for me because I play irons 2-3* flat from standard.

I slapped together a little drying shelf with an angle so the club is sitting in a toe down position (also have a little curb on the toe end so it can't slide away) and the shaft sits close to straight up and down as it dries.

You can also buy clips that are supposed to keep everything straight but I have never used those.

1 minute ago, Adam C said:

I slapped together a little drying shelf with an angle so the club is sitting in a toe down position (also have a little curb on the toe end so it can't slide away) and the shaft sits close to straight up and down as it dries.

You can also buy clips that are supposed to keep everything straight but I have never used those.

Thanks Adam - Would it be possible for you to post a photo of what you put together?

1 hour ago, Joelandrewrogers said:

Thanks Adam - Would it be possible for you to post a photo of what you put together?

Not much to look at. 2x4 at the bottom with a rubber electrical cord hiding strip I cut lengthwise. One piece is glued down and acts as the rest to get the angle. The second piece in front keeps clubs from sliding off. Having a few pegs in the wall behind can also be helpful to keep the shafts from falling over to the sides. I have not done that yet though as I keep my drying clubs where I know I can't accidentally knock into them.

2 hours ago, Adam C said:

Not much to look at. 2x4 at the bottom with a rubber electrical cord hiding strip I cut lengthwise. One piece is glued down and acts as the rest to get the angle. The second piece in front keeps clubs from sliding off. Having a few pegs in the wall behind can also be helpful to keep the shafts from falling over to the sides. I have not done that yet though as I keep my drying clubs where I know I can't accidentally knock into them.

That’s fantastic. Thank you for taking the effort to post the picture. Really appreciate it.