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graphite or steel shafts for iron sets?


Oqvist

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Is there any reason beyond cost to not go for graphite? From what I read there is only benefits with graphite. It´s more stable it don´t vibrate like steel shafts do? They can be both more rigid and light weight?

lower shaft weight mean you can feel the clubhead better which is just about always what you want?

Only recently tried during a fitting and the feel was very similar to a light weight steel shaft.

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Had a very terrible experience with graphite the first time trying them. I skied everything, like moon balls. No distance , gapping wasn’t happening. Went back to steel .

It was not the fault of the club or the shaft really. It was just a mismatch for me. I believe the fitter was the problem .

Fast forward 10 years, I listened to fitting recommendations and added more of what I wanted in ball flight. This has worked. Playing the Project X Catalyst 65 . The ball flight is much better and controllable.

Driver: Callaway Paradym 9 set to 10 Draw

3W Callaway  Epic Flash

5w Callaway Epic Flash
Hybrids: 4-5 Epic Flash    
               6-7 Big Bertha 

               7 Ping G430 played as an 8 

Irons: PXG Gen4 XP 9-GW

Wedges: PXG 0311 52 56 degree Forged

Putter: Odyssey Rossie Pro 2.0 

 

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Shaft weight itself is VERY important, and if you think lighter shafts gives a stronger feel of head weight, you are wrong, head weight "is as it is", so what you do is "muting down" feel of shaft weight and thats not always good, since its feedback from the shaft (weight) we navigate on to be able to tell when we are at the top of the swing, not head weight. That means if we go to light, you will see tendencies to over swing the club (to long back swing). Shaft weight is also part of the resistance needed to stabilize the swing and make a good impact, so shaft weight is like all other club specs where too little or too much is both wrong, we have to find what works the best for us, then look at options in that weight range. IF that weight is below 90 grams uncut, and the profile wanted is LOW launch, you will have to look at graphite since steel shafts in low launch below 90 grams is not a common offer but you find them as graphite.

I play graphite myself except for my 2 wedges, and thats both for weight and feedback reasons (dampening of vibrations) and there will never be a steel option for me in irons that can match those graphites i play, and if it did, it would not feel as good as this do, so i want return to steel shafts for irons.....but yes, they cost a few bucks more than most steel shafts does

So overall, we have MORE options in graphite than steel since we are free to choose both weight, flex and profile as we like.

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DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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The devil's in the details. Your problems had nothing to do with with the material the shaft was made of. It had to do with the details of the shaft specs. Not all graphite shafts are the same just like not all steel shafts are the same. When finding the best shaft, It's much more important to make sure specs like shaft weight, shaft stiffness profile, and even swing weight are a good fit for your swing first before deciding on whether you should get steel or graphite.

In your case, the problem was that the shaft was likely too light since stock, off the shelf graphite offerings do tend to be lighter than the stock steel shafts since the target customers are the older and weaker players. But now stock steel shafts can get pretty light as well, especially in SGI sets, as well so just as possible to run into a stock steel set that might be a bad fit as well.

So in your case you were just more lucky with the specs on that particular steel shaft you tried than with the graphite. It doesn't mean graphite can't be a good fit for you, it only means that that one particular graphite shaft was a bad fit.

Graphite does have much better vibration dampening but that does not mean they are any more inherently stable than steel. It has nothing to do with stability. But that also means that they provide the player less feedback about mishits and some people see that as a downside to graphite.

Lower shaft weight does not mean you can feel the head better, actually it tends to be the other way around but that's a poor reason to pick a shaft weight. Head weight and swing weight should can be tweaked and fit AFTER you pick the proper shaft weight. Shaft weight fitting is all about how the weight feel fits with your sense of rhythm and tempo. It's about finding a weight that works well with your swing and not one that fights against your natural tendencies.

Get fit for shaft weight first before you worry about steel vs graphite. Steel is only really availble from about 90 gm to 130 gm. While graphite is available over a wider range. 60 gm to 125 gm. So in most cases you can find a shaft weigh that fits in either steel or graphite. However if you find you fit into a heavier weight shaft (> 100 gm) then there are more options to choose from for different shaft stiffness profiles in steel than there are in graphite. While if you find you fit into a shaft that's < 100 gm, then there are more options to choose from in graphite. It's only when the best shaft weight is less than 80-90 gm that you will be very limited to graphite.

 

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Stuart I would agree it wasn’t the material . My point was make sure you communicate what you are looking for to the fitter. Graphite has a wider range of flight than I’ve ever seen in steel. Not that steel doesn’t vary but not like graphite.

But because I had a bad experience it did make it hard for me for ten years from playing graphite. I also blamed the fitting itself not the shaft.

Driver: Callaway Paradym 9 set to 10 Draw

3W Callaway  Epic Flash

5w Callaway Epic Flash
Hybrids: 4-5 Epic Flash    
               6-7 Big Bertha 

               7 Ping G430 played as an 8 

Irons: PXG Gen4 XP 9-GW

Wedges: PXG 0311 52 56 degree Forged

Putter: Odyssey Rossie Pro 2.0 

 

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My first set of clubs was a set of Callaway X-14 with the standard 76 gram descending wgt Graphite shafts. Back then i knew nothing about golf clubs, i did not know they was made 0.5" inch longer to be able to get SW into a decent area or that the shaft had a weight suitable for a 70 year old. Like other beginners, i hacked around with them and did my best, but only had ONE pure impact.....i never saw that ball again.

I switched to steel shaft (DG R300), and my game improved very fast...until my old prolapses came back.....again, i did not understand shaft weight,(just bought the most popular shaft on the marked) and the truth is non of them i asked for help (PGA trainers or "club fitters"), could help me out, i was advised to stop playing, they said my issues was strictly medical, it had noting to do with the equipment.....fast forward...after YEARS of reading, trial and error i took club making classes and became a club fitter myself, and today i do my best to help others with this basic questions about club tech where shaft weight is among the most important specs of them all.

Today im back in Graphite in irons, but with a weight closer to steel shafts since they are about 87 grams uncut (Constant wgt) and with GRIPs as compensation factor for the drop in Total weight from the DG i once played. i no longer rip up my back like i did with DG, but the issue was shaft/total weight and too early release combined, but it took me years as a club fitter to find the solution for my own bag and thats why i know what i know today, that knowledge has come the hard way and not over night.

The hunt for the right shaft starts by finding the weight range that fits, steel or graphite is "personal preference" or need for dampening or not.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Sounds similar to my story but for me the first graphite set luckily worked fine - a fujikura 95 gm iron shaft made for TM in the 320 irons sometime around 2000. Or maybe I was just so happy the pain in my hand was gone that I didn't care how good a fit they were and ended up adjusting.

It was the second set that was a complete disaster. Ping i5's with their stock TFC 100. I hated the feel. Probably a little too light (85 gm) but mainly way too soft. They drove me crazy. I talked to everyone I could find locally (pros and retail "fitters") and everyone said, no they're fine, the problem's not the shaft. So I struggled with those things for a bit more than a year before I ended up here in this forum and I really started to learn and understand what shaft fitting is really about. Started buying single shafts to build and test with myself since the options to test aftermarket graphite iron shafts were non-existent at the time.

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Ah yes that´s probably true. When custom fitting the G410 I was fitted for the lighter steel shaft and graphite mostly due to the stronger lofts on that had me getting flight paths a bit on the low side. I get good trajectory on my old ping i3s but those are the older style where a 7 iron has the loft of a modern 8 iron. Can´t say I felt the clubhead better or worse but that needs more time. I did strike it better with the lighter shafts though!

Now I can´t afford the pings so thinking of the wilson d300 and their 54G Matrix Speed Rulz A Type graphite shaft. That sells at almost a third of the price of the pings but there is like a 5 % chance they will fit I suppose... There is only one wilson fitter it seems in Sweden and it´s on the wrong part of the country :(

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@Oqvist said "Can´t say I felt the clubhead better or worse but that needs more time."....
Im sorry to say this, but head weight is a obligatory part of a "fitting", so you have NOT been fitted, but can do it yourself, add some lead tape to the head until it feels right and work as it should. its a BIG shame they call it fitting and leave it up to you "to get used to it", thats NOT fitting at all, its not even close. IF thats the only options you have, what part of Sweden are you? North or South?

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Unless someone needs the vibration damping, or a super light shaft of less than 90 grams, there really isn't much reason to go graphite. They are more fragile than steel and good graphites are a significant up charge with most OEM's. Don't take me wrong, I love graphite. But I'm playing them mostly for the shock absorption.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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I'm a senior but still have some game left in me. Every time I try graphite shaft irons I feel the club is too light and my tempo worsens. I do have Dynamic Gold 105 (lightweight steel) shafts in my irons so they are a good compromise between weight and feel/control. I always put the Pro-Soft dampening inserts in all my irons which does help vibration.

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What graphite shafts have you tried? There are quite a few heavier options these days, including many that are heavier than your DG 105's.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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At our demo days (Ping, Callaway, Taylor Made) I will try what they have on the rack. Don't recall the specific models. When playing with friends they often let me try their graphite irons and I have the same issue - too light. But everyone is different. Of course if I played them an entire season they might grow on me.

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If you want to experience what modern high quality graphite iron shafts are all about go demo some clubs with Recoil or Steelfiber shafts in them, and pay attention to the weight. Try both the 95's and 110's and see which you like better. Many of the off the rack graphite shafts are in the 70 gram range so it's not an even comparison if you compare those against DG105's which are 30 grams heavier.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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The standard graphite options is still to the lower end on weight, but all OEMs with respect for themselves and their customers has upgrade options up to 125 grams for graphite, we even have both constant weight and Ascending weight graphite options, so graphite no longer means lighter, thats only for the standard models it does, so the next demo day you visit, ask for a graphite option in the 95 to 110 grams range. Some have them in the box, others dont, but if you look on the actual OEMs webpage, you will most likely find them.

since you mention Taylormade, they have steelfibers as 95 grams, Project X black smoke 92 grams, UST Recoil both 85 - 95 and 110 grams.....the Custom options is a full catalog itself.https://www.taylormadegolf.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-tmag-custom-catalog-us/default/v1582967710268/pdf/Custom_Shafts.pdf

IRON shaft options both steel and Graphite starts on page 21

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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I'm not suggesting you "should" play graphite. Was just making a point that graphite isn't necessarily "too light" like you mentioned in your first post.

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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As Nessism has already mentioned. There is a big difference between graphite iron shafts and "Players" graphite iron shafts. I would not even attempt to play any of the lighter weight graphite options as they would not suit my swing at all. However, I find many of the offerings above 100g with low torque just as playable and consistent as steel ever was for me. And my joints thank me for using them.

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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Just starting the process of changing the irons from steel to graphite. Have been using PX steel & I am switching to PX LZ 105g graphite. Just over a month from 62 & have osteoarthritis in the hands. Have been using the graphite shaft in the 8 iron for over two months & really like it. However, have noticed one benefit that I cannot account for. My accuracy is better with the graphite. If struck well, you could lay pipe with the line it takes. My only guess is the slight weight difference.

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Hi guys, just wanted to quickly chime in and offer to help with any questions relating to our graphite irons. We make a wide range including a Metal Composite/Hybrid option (MCI) and our PRO iron shafts go up to 115 gram Tour Spec X which are 15 cycles stiffer in the handle than X100 but aren't harsh or boardy.

We're planning to do a bit of a reminder "campaign" on our iron shafts this summer. There's a lot of misconceptions about graphite irons, even here in this thread, so anything we can do to help let us know.

If you want to get some feedback from WRX members on our PRO irons, we did a member testing a couple of years ago: https://forums.golfwrx.com/discussion/1670080/member-reviews-fujikura-pro-iron-shafts-see-what-members-are-saying

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http://fujikuragolf.com http://fujikuragolf.com/dealer-locator

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Im considering a new set of irons myself, and graphite is my preference, but i only see descending weight options on your webpage, and if possible, i would like Ascending wgt, so let me ask about how your PRO series is designed. The weight and deflection specs (who is all i can find), make it seems like i can compose a set SEMI Ascending wgt shafts, by mixing 75i, 85i and 95i.

Questions

Is the carbon fiber frame the same for all wgt options within the same flex letter, and the amount of resin used the only actual difference? (deflection specs points in that direction)

What tolerance is used for uncut weight on the PRO models?

Whats the average butt CPM slope for classic 4/8" clubs with the same SW value? (CPM pr inch or between clubs)

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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I'm with Howard on the Pro. I shafted a set of MP14s with the Pro 115 and had to really work at getting the weights where I wanted them. PW shaft ended up considerably lighter than the 4i due to trimming the .370 tip. I got them where I want them and they feel pretty good, but a constant weight or ascending weight would make things a ton easier. Any plans for a .355 taper CW/AW option?

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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Howard and Stuart are correct as are others. Poor fit graphite shafts are just as bad as poorly fit steel shafts. Graphite technology has dramatically changed over recent years. I played steel PX 6.0 shaft up to last year when I switched to Aerotech Steelfiber graphite/steel composite shafts. Never bothered with a really lite 65/75g shafts, as they are just too lite. I started out with Steelfiber 95g shafts only to realize shaft design was right but weight was wrong. I moved to their 125g stiff in SW-7i and 110g stiff in 6i-2i; got the benefits of graphite on my body but stability and weight of steel that works with my quick tempo. Also, gained back a few yards in distance. Hence, at 70, I am hitting my irons almost as far as when I was 40.

Mind you, I can still stick the ball, even spin it back with these shafts just like with PX 6.0, 120g shafts. The draw back as stated, graphite is more expensive. My shafts cost $55ea, x 10, on top of $1600 for irons, do the math. FYI; the other graphite shaft that I like is MMT 105, but they are even more costly. For that reason maybe it's even more important to get properly fitted so as not to waste the bucks. Good luck.

  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo TR Blue 58
  • TSR2 15° AD VF 74
  • T200 17 2i° Tensei AV Raw White Hybrid 90
  • T100 3i to 9i MMT 105
  • T100 PW, SM9 F52/12, M58/8, PX Wedge 6.0 120
  • SC/CA Monterey
  • DASH -ProV1x & AVX
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Appears I will be stuck on steel for a while longer. I got lucky I found the wilson D7 with the kbs tour 80 "uniflex" shaft at my golf clubs shop.

Just some 50 euro more then the wilson d300 with graphite I already ordered and is on it´s way. Last set so I jumped on it as it felt good, had great high trajectories despite the strong lofts. I can see an issue with low spin and getting it to stop on greens though some serious distance irons this.

Uniflex is supposed to be a regular/stiff hybrid interim shaft but I realise there is no standard? Feels like it´s way more regular then stiff anyway.

Still quite a bit of swing weight in those big irons so for these I am still curious if not the 54G would feel even better. And if my hands would feel less numb after a day swinging. Can only hope the local golf shop takes in more D7s with graphite so I can compare a bit :)

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@Oqvist - Unflex is a decent mid-bend shaft that's been around for many years. Ben Hogan used them, Callaway and believe Ping had them or something similar as stock shafts. Good for people that don't have demanding swings but may take some getting use to. Be patient. Good luck.
  • TSR2 9.25° Ventus Velo TR Blue 58
  • TSR2 15° AD VF 74
  • T200 17 2i° Tensei AV Raw White Hybrid 90
  • T100 3i to 9i MMT 105
  • T100 PW, SM9 F52/12, M58/8, PX Wedge 6.0 120
  • SC/CA Monterey
  • DASH -ProV1x & AVX
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How did actual weight on the uncut shafts look like?. Normally Descending wht shafts has a "neutral" balance point, and if thats the same for the PRO model, the difference 3 to 9 should be about 9 grams net cut wgt difference, so they should not be any different than other descending wgt shafts. Ive been playing Constant wgt for so long that Descending wgt is not a option for me, and im no longer in a position with full boxes of shafts i can weight sort as i like, and there is not many distributors who will do that job and weight sort the blanks. The last SHOULD have been a offer, many are willing to pay extra for that service so its strange it dont exist as a option, but maybe it does without me knowing who has that service?

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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