Standard grip to midsize. Will it change club feel?

I’m thinking of changing grips to midsize. I use tour velvet and will probably stay with them. All else being equal should I notice a change in the way the club feels?

I tried +4 grips and midsize for about a year. I felt it was a little harder to release my bottom hand while following through. Just my observation, but in my opinion when it comes to your hands I think you can notice a very slight difference in feel. I think going from standard to midsize is more than a slight difference

Tour Velvet Mid are still relatively light in weight, but when you look at some of the other midsize grips (MCC +4 are like 66 grams) you loose swing weight and your iron heads etc will feel lighter or lose feeling. How much is person to person, but I could feel it so now I am pretty conscious of what mid I use- TV mid are great. I went Z cord mid this season and they are surprisingly light too for midsize.

I agree with this. I liked midsize on driver — longer shaft, different angle — but they felt too log-like to me on irons after standards for so long. I didn’t care for how it felt at impact. I ended up going back to standard plus two extra wraps (so, base tape plus 2 more) and that put it about halfway between standard and midsize (for a GP CP2 Pro.) That’s where I’ve stayed and it is the goldilocks. Doesn’t feel like a pencil that I grip too hard but also not like the grip is thick and inhibiting my release.

You may want to try one midsize first to see how you like it. Feeling good about your grips is important.

I went from regular to mid and then to oversize. The bigger grip feels more stable & makes it easier to maintain light grip pressure.

I use Winn Dri-Tac oversize and have been very happy with these.

It was a game changer for me with grip pressure. I always had a 'death grip' on the club. My new instructor saw how my fingers were digging into the palm of my hands. Bigger grips made it some much easier to grip the club lightly.

everyone is different, but the closer to the shaft the better so you can feel the shot and get the feedback you want, and the club swing weight is more consistent with what feels right.

but if you have issues with your hands or elbows, or you have a problem hooking the ball, then try it out on one club and see what you think. If you like it, then do the rest of the set.

I bought a driver off the 'bay while suffering Covid boredom. Seller said it had an oversized, badly worn Winn grip. The grip itself was big and had 6 layers of tape underneath. I couldn't swing it at all. Had to take the grip off, then peel all the tape and put on a new grip to see if it was playable. There was a 30 day return policy, don't know how they were going to react to the new grip.

Swing weight change....

Like many mentioned, often they are 2 SW points higher approximately 10grams heavier, but not all. The Winn Dri-Tac midsize is 50 grams.

I prefer midsize grips on woods and hybrids and Standard with 2 wraps low and 1 high on my irons.

I find that with Standard grip sizes in my Woods and Hybrids, I turn into a hook machine ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ doesn’t affect my irons though at all. I play Golf Pride MMC Align in standard on my irons and have played both Winn DriTac and DuraTech midsize on my irons with great success, but put in an MMC Midsize, and for some reason my dispersion is horrible ......... pushes, and I tend to hit the ball thin at times for some reason with them ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

The difference in feel is very noticeable to me!

In grip thickness I am "on the line" between standard and midsize. When I went to midsize, I found I fidgeted less at address: The irons felt more solidly set in my hands, and I sprayed the ball less.

The biggest consideration is how the size changes your personal feel and how you grip and release the club. Swingweight is a very distance second consideration because while the club will measure differently, but will not feel nearly the same as the equivalent removed of headweight that would result in the same change. That is to say, an additional 10g of grip weight will not feel the same as the removal of ~4g of head weight even though they would produce the same or similar swing weight measurements. So ignore swing weight and pay attention to how it feels in your hands. Only add weight to the club if it feels light to you, not because the scale says you "should".

I did it across the board and was surprised that the swing weight change wasn’t super noticeable...I was going from tour velvet to TV midsize as well.

That's fairly common because it doesn't really change the swing weight. The swing weight concept was never designed or intended to deal with butt weight changes. It's more a change in the static weight of the club than anything else. There are always exceptions, but in most cases grip weight changes can be ignored. Personally I think it largely depends on how good a fit the shaft weight (static weight) was and how good a fit the swing weight was before making the change.

Yes, I have read this a bunch and while it makes sense to me I wonder what is the "standard" grip weight to be used when dialing in swingweights...for me it makes the most sense just to use swingweight as a measurement across my set to ensure no club deviates wildly from the next but cant really use the value as an absolute comparison.

The way to dial in the swing weight is to use whatever grip is the preferred grip and don't worry about the weight. Then go to the range with some lead tape and dial in the head weight based on feel and performance, not with a swing weight scale. Only after you find the right amount do you go and put the club on the swing weight scale and then that value can be used for the rest of the set (all with the same grip).

Anytime you change something, like grip weight or shaft weight, then it's time to throw out the old value, and go to the range to find a new value.

Just a bit of advice. The mods aren't dumb, they can tell when someone is trying to increase their post count quickly just to be allowed to post on the BST.

I recently did the opposite and switched from midsize on my driver down to standard and i have liked it a lot. my 3 wood is still mid size so its a little odd switching back and forth, will probably change that grip soon

i know this reply comes late, but today we consider a grip like Tour velvet standard size who is 50 grams to be "OEM standard", and their specs is based on that, so when official specs is lets say D2, we can dry fit to E1 when building without grip, and match the original D2 value. (9 SWP up un-gripped for dry fit)

Does it matter? yes and no. Feel of head weight is personal, and some players is better of with lower ACTUAL head weight than standard, others with higher, so this values is mostly of interest for club makers where we can judge changes to flex due to ACTUAL changes in head weight.

Many years ago i tried to split the term SW in 2 different.

True SW - this value is ACTUAL, and any changes up or down from standard (D2), will make a difference for FLEX, since its head weight or the shafts balance point and weight we change here.Play SW - this is the value the actual club returns from the SW scale no matter grip we might use. Play SW has NO influence on the clubs flex properties, ONLY the clubs static weight and balance point.SW and SW values is probably the most misunderstood Golf tech specs of them all, since the majority believes it represent a certain feel of head weight, or club balance, but it dont, so the instrument is only useful to measure a clubs value for repair reference, or to duplicate 1 iron thats tuned up and work as it should, so we can make a sort cut for how the rest of that Iron set should be made. Outside of that the instrument should not be used at all, like when we change grips and grip weight since the instrument CANT guide us back to the feel that club had when we change length or weight. In that scenario, who is the scenario many tries to use it, the instrument is really useless.

A analog to this would be a European who goes to the US to play golf. He knows his carry distance for all clubs, but as meters, but in that scenario we can convert the numbers to yards and he will be just fine, but for SW values that CANT BE DONE, when we mess with grip weight, or shaft weight, NO conversion charts (or the scale) is able to reset the club as it was, we have to try it off and judge for our self if we need to adjust something and how much, the SW scale cant help us with that, and it was not made for that either.

Howard for the win with actual factual information!!!

As stated, SW is very personal. For your case, with the Tour Velvet grips, going from standard to midsize there really shouldn't be a big difference in feel unless you are very sensitive to it. Toss on the new grips and go get some swings in. After a few swings, you won't notice it at all.

If you are in-between sizes, don't forget you can do extra wraps of tape underneath. That is also a very personal feel but if standard is just a bit too small and midsize feels just a bit too big you can build up the standard grip and give it a more personalized feel.

Good luck, and make sure to let us know how you make out!

I forgot to mention that Tour Velvet standard to Tour velvet MID, is probably the change with lowest influence that can be done when mid size is wanted. If the grips is the official weight.

The standard is 49.5 grams, - MID size is only 53.5, so its 4 grams from std to mid. If we wanted to build up a standard grip to MID using Golf BU tape (Mitchell), who adds 0.015 for each layer, we need 4 layers, each of 2 grams, and thats the double weight added, and this comes as a surprise for many that tape can add that much but it does, and the grip feels "firmer" when its build up vs more rubber only, so Tour Velvet MID is a very overlooked grip for those who wants mid size, and still of the best grips ever made.

For those of you thats vary anal about the SW scale and return values. Be aware of that most grips on the marked has its balance point at 4 inches down from the butt, and lately we have seen that grips like +4 might have a thicker grip cap than the standard version, both to keep PB at 4.0", but maybe also "to please" those who turns nuts when the SW scale return a value they dont "like"...the thicker grip cap adds club length on the scale, and reduce the added grip weights influence on the scale, so we can forget that "5 grams = 1 SWP", thats only true if the grip cap i standard, and the grips BP is at 4.0" inch.

Now you have another reason for NOT be worried about what value the scale returns, grip manufacturers knows how to trick the scale, just like grip weight in general does, and we should NOT add grips and then dry fit head weight when building, also because grips has a tolerance of plus minus 3.5 grams, so at the first grip change later, that balance job is worthless.

When we build clubs, dry-fit without grips, and use the tolerances in grip weight to even out total weight progression who is way more important than SW values, then you have "done it right", and made head side like it should be vs the shafts installed, the grips has no of part of that, but can mess that part up due to their tolerances, so the grips is always the last we should add.