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Eazy_B97

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Driver and Hybrids
Hello All,
I've browsed around the site in the past and have read a few tidbits and the site seems very helpful. I just started playing regularly last summer. I'm out about twice every 3 weeks playing a full round, and usually on the driving range 1-2 a week as well. This is all during the summer, Winters are "off time" due to school and other restrictions. My girlfriend bought me some gift certificates to be spent on a Golf instructor, so I am definately hoping to improve my game a bit. I bought some clubs last year, and am fairly happy with them, but would like to upgrade in a few spots. In total, I bought

- Wilson Fatboy II 9* Driver
- Ram RX3 Irons
- Tour Smooth Temp Hybrid 16* w/ Bi-Matrix shaft
- 60* Paradise Black Chrome

I am relatively happy with the irons, and after reading alot of review sites, understand that these are very forgiving. At this point, I'm not a very good golfer (easily in the 100s) and fairly eratic on the course. During the middle of the season, I started to hit my driver really well, but had a fair bit of a "slice" on it. I am roughly 5'11, 210lbs, and was getting 275-290 on my drives when I connected (roughly 80% of the time). I've been told my drives are line-drives, where there aren't alot of height, but decent distance. After playing with some much better golfers, I noticed they had a much higher trajectory and I am wondering if the degree is my problem. I know that the Taylor Made "r" line has some weights, which supposedly help this, would they be a good option? I've looked into the Cobra SZ 440/460 drivers a little bit and the r7. I love the look of the Callaway Fusion, but am not sure if it's the right club for me.

The hybrid has given me alot of trouble, and I've never felt comfortable with it. I got it in the last 1/4 of the season and my game really fell-off at this point.

Basically I'd like some suggestion on "easy to hit" Hybrids, and a nice, forgiving, straight, driver. I know these clubs won't turn me into Tiger, I'll be working on getting my game together all summer long and improving in my technique and swing, so hopefully I can grab a hybrid(s)/Driver that helps me get to the next step as well. I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, but realize with E-bay, this forums classified and other second hand oppurtunities, I can get some great clubs for exceptional prices. I know flex is usually based on swing speed, but if anyone could see something in my post to help me along that would be great as well.

Another thing, I am a hockey player, and Golf was really the last sport I tried. Since I started out in Hockey and baseball as a lefty, I started golfing left handed as well. In the last 3-4 years (just before I really got into the game) I started shooting right as people watching me thought that my swing was better this way. Is there any harm in switching like I did? I've grown accustomed to being a righty golfer, and I don't have any problems in that regard, although I do still putt left (probably from the years of LH mini-putt)
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Welcome to the site Eazy_B97, and the great game of golf.

 

Just a few tips and suggestions to improve:

 

If you are comfortable golfing as a rightie, but want it confirmed. I would say bring it up with the golf instructor. Hopefully they have some video equipment they can record your swing. Once they've got you on tape they should be able to confirm if you should play as a righty or lefty.

 

As for the equipment your using:

 

Haven't heard of the driver you're currently using, but that's not a big deal. Might help if you could take it on a Launch monitor to see how you're hitting it. Typically a beginner golfer bennefits from a higher lofted driver (especially if you're hitting line drive tee shots). You'll want to have the driver launch angle be between 10* and 14* (12* being a good target). You'll also want to check the swing speed against the "flex" of the shaft on the driver that you are using. If possible, it would also be good to see what the backspin rate. Most big box golf stores such as Golf Galaxy or Golf Smith can help you with this. The drivers that you've listed as potential replacements are all pretty good. Just make sure you demo them, and hit the different shaft options available. Might be a good idea to go through a "fitting" session with one of their employes.

 

Your hybrid is typically used to replace your 3iron. The loft on your hybrid would seem to indicate you've replaced a fairway wood. Your 3 iron is probably lofted around 20* or 21*, so would would benefit from getting a higher lofted hybrid. You didn't mention any fairway woods in your post, but it would probably help to carry a 3 wood (around 15*) and a 5 wood (around 19*).

 

You seem to be happy with your irons, and as long as you are consistent with them I would say keep em for now.

 

Some other tips to break 100. If there's any doubt on the tee box about hitting driver, bag it for your 3 wood (or something else). At this point, penalty shots are killer. Just think about putting the ball in play in the fairway. Two words "SHORT GAME". Remeber, they only ask "how many", and don't care how you got there. A good short game can save any hole. Pitching, Chipping and Putting practice is key to breaking 100. A "preshot routine" is also a good thing to have. This helps get you in the right position each time you pick up a club. Last tip is to practice with a purpose. While at the driving range, imagine you are playing the first couple of holes of a course. Switching up clubs after each shot as if you were really playing the hole. This helped me out a lot last year. It's easy to say you had a good range session while hitting driver for 10 or 15 balls in a row. But if you can go from driver to iron to wedge, and then back to driver (as if you finished the hole) you'll benefit from going through your preshot routine and seeing how you really hit the ball.

 

Good Luck.

 

I'm sure others on the site will have some tips for you as well.

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Hold off on any new purchases until you have a little more experience. Then you can spend a little more wisely based on what you need and not what most people are playing. You're scores are not going to affected (yet) by the latest and greatest new clubs.

 

I'm going to echo the previous advice, work on your short game & putting!!! That will give you the most dramatic change (and confidence) in your scores early on. Next take the 3 & 4 iron out of your bag for now and find a hybrid or two you're comfortable with. The average player can't hit the 3 & 4 well enough to justify carrying them and a hybrid will help keep you in play until you get in range for your short game that you're going to be working on. There's nothing wrong with using the hybrid off the tee either. It's not as flashy as booming one 300+ yrds but 175-200 yrds in the middle beats 300 yrds downrange and 150 yrds to the right of the fairway.

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Great, thanks for the advice guys. I've basically been using the "hybrid" as a 3 wood at this point, but will look into some more "hybrid-ish" clubs immediately. I'm going to GolfTown for my lessons, my dad went, and they were really good with him. They taped him and gave him a list of things to work on. Since it was on tape, he could watch it and work on things each time, which is why I am going there instead of a "usual" Pro at a driving range. They should let me demo the clubs there, so hopefully that helps me narrow down my choices.

 

I'm surprised you haven't heard of the Wilson Fatboy II driver. It's a fairly popular beginner driver around here.

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Your first post just said 'Fatboy', so people probably didn't make the Wilson connection. That is an extrememly low loft for a beginners driver, and even though you get some distance you probably might want to consider something with significantly more loft to keep it in the fairway.

 

Better yet, do as others suggested and just get a 3 wood to use off the tee. For $100 you can get a great used 3-wood from anyone or even a new TM V-Steel. Most people will tell you to keep practicing with your driver at the range, but don't use it on the course until you consistently break 100 (actually 90 would be best).

 

My first iron replacement when I just started last summer was a $40 Dunlop. It was ok (great, compared to long irons) but on a whim I bought a $100 hybrid and could not believe the difference. Personally I like my Nike 22* CPR as it is right between 3 iron and 4 iron hybrid replacements. Your 16* is probably hard to hit for most players, and should be replaced by a wood and not another low lofted hybrid.

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Would the "Hybrid" 16* be okay to use as a 3 wood for now? I've used my dads OLD 3 wood (actual wood) and have more success with my driver. I'll definately be looking into a 12* driver though.

 

The more modern Fairway woods (or metal woods as they are sometimes referred to as) are going to be more forgiving than an older "wood" fairway wood. You also mentioned in your first post that you were having trouble hitting the hybrid, which was part of why I suggested going for a fairway wood instead of the hybrid at that loft. A 16* hybrid can be difficult to hit compared to a 15* 3 wood, or even a 17* 4 wood. Then go for a hybrid around 20* to replace your 3 iron. You can pick up some good used fairway woods pretty cheap. Manufacturers like Adams, Ping, Cobra, or Callaway make very forgiving, higher launching fairway woods. When your at Golf Town for your lesson, try one some of these out. My guess is you'll like these newer fairways much better than your dad's old "wood" fairway wood.

 

Don't feel like you have to get all of your equipment figured out at once. Might be better to get the fairway wood and hybrid situation down, before looking for a driver (although it wouldn't be as much fun).

 

:kewlpics:

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Easy, welcome to the board!

 

These guys have given you some great advice, especially the part about not buying new equipment yet, take some lessons and work on your swing.

 

Your driver being 9* is terribly low lofted, but then again, depending on your swing speed it might be ok if teamedf up with the right shaft.

 

That's why it's best to take lessons first, and get a swing you're comfortable with, then look into equipment since your swing may be erratic and any club you buy now may not work well with your swing at all down the road once you start getting better.

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You've got some great advice so far. Before you buy any clubs, I'd recommend picking up a copy of Tom Wishon's Search for the Perfect Club. It's a great book and will explain, in depth, the gains you can expect to see from getting new clubs. I found it to be a great resource and it's a fun read.

Callaway Epic

Callaway Apex Hybrid
Honma TW Muscle Backs
TP Mills Custom Soft Tail

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Since tracys brought up the subject of books, here's one I highly recommend:

 

"Five Lessons The Modern Fundementals of Golf" by Ben Hogan, with Herbert Warren Wind.

 

The best $12 I ever spent on anything golf related. Does a good job of explaining the components of the golf swing, and how they interact. It was recommended to me by a friend who's an avid golfer and took several lessons a year. He said this book did more for him than any single lesson has. I picked it up a few years ago, and I must say it has helped me as well. I read it every winter, just before the start of golf season. There are some things you'll have to adjust for your swing (everyones swing is different), but it does a great job of explaining how one part of your swing impacts something else. It's a good reference point for any part of the swing. Hogan fought a hook, so if you slice, you'll need to make some adjustments to your grip. For me, other than some grip changes, I've modeled my most of my swing after this book and my swing has improved greatly.

 

:kewlpics:

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I'll check into those books. Only 4 more weeks before exams, so there will be plenty of time in the summer to grab them.

 

This advice has been great thus far, thanks very much.

 

I am not very good with the Hybrid, I just wasn't sure if it's because my level of play is very weak or if it's just a difficult club to hit. As neat as the "wood" 3-wood is, I figured I'd see some upgrades switching to metal. I'll definately try and demo some stuff ASAP. I practiced some chipping last night too, I'm starting to get excited.

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I will chime in with a book I just got. It is called, "How to Break 90" by T.J. Tomasi and Mike Adams with Mike Corcoran. This book assumes you have or have been close to breaking 90 and that you regularly break 100 and don't have any basic faults such as having trouble getting the ball in the air. In all honesty I am not really even at that level yet as I still top a few here and there and I don't think I ever met a hole I didn't 3 putt. Even though, I like this book.

 

It doesn't really talk about how to swing the club but rather how to effectively manage the golf course. Tips include breaking down a green into green, yellow, or red zones and knowing when to go for the flag and when to just try for the middle or avoid trouble areas all together (hint - If you don't have a wedge in then always go for the center of the green). That is just a small example of what the book offers. It pretty much dictates what seems to be an conservative approach to playing a course, but in reality it is more of playing smart and within yourself.

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Can someone fill me in what the difference between Tour and retial clubs are? I know what retail ones are, but are the "Tour" clubs any different in the way they are made? Is it like Pro return gear for players? I doubt it would fit my game at this point, but I was just browsing around the site and saw a few mention of these.

 

Ie. Nike SQ vs. Tour Nike SQ, etc..

 

 

Edit: How is the Cobra Baffler as a Hybrid? Should I be looking to go with the same degree as my 3/4 iron, or a little higher?

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As a new golfer myself the conclusion I came to is I can't hit anything lower lofted than about 20* off the deck so I carry a 12 dr to use off the tee, a 19* 5 wood for fluffy lies, 22*hybird in the fairway, then 6, 8, pw, sw, and a putter.

Yes I've got a gap between the hy and the 6 but I can't see the flag from 150 yds away anyway.

 

 

I'm still trying to learn which club to use from what distance, and the fact that most greens are bigger than 20 yds the gaps arent a problem yet, fewer clubs less chance of picking the wrong one, plus the bag is lighter.

 

To answer your loft vs distance question, I find that a hybird goes farther than the same loft iron, so for example 23* iron = 24-25* hybird

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Awesome, thanks for the help. I've been browsing around for Hybrids and drivers, likely starting my lessons next weekend. One problem I've found with the driver degree, just browsing, is 12* usually comes in "Senior (L)" flexes and I think that would be way too much flex for me. Someone mentioned anywhere from 10-14* being good for me, but 12* being the best, so I'm wary of going to the 10.5*, although they seem to be more readily available.

 

I'm hopings to try out all of the clubs I am looking at from Golftown once I get my lessons, although I'll likely buy used to keep costs down.

 

I've also been thinking of taking the 3-4 out of my bag, possibly the 6 as well and going with 5,7,8,9,PW,60*, putter for irons. Then my Hybrid (whichever I chose) and my driver. Possible a wood as well.

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I mentioned a 10 to 14 degree launch angle (with 12 being ideal launch angle) in one of my replys. Launch angle and the loft degree of your driver are 2 different things. A 10.5 degree driver will probably be fine for you. However, when you hit that 10.5* driver on a launch monitor, the monitor results (or even a simulator) should indicate that your drive launched around 12*.

 

Sorry for any confusion on drivers.

 

As for iron set up, I would suggest staying away from a 60* LW. :) These are difficult clubs to master. Instead, try to get a SW (around 56*), and a GW to fill in any loft gap between you PW and SW.

 

Taking the 3&4 irons out for a hybrid(s) would be a good idea. You might want to keep your 6 iron, as you'll end up at a yardage that requires one.

 

:)

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  • 1 month later...

Here's just a list of suggestions.

 

 

 

Best for the money, last years model

 

Driver: Cobra 454 Comp 10.5*

Callaway 454 10.5*

Cleveland Comp 10.5*

r7 HT 10.5*

Adams 430Q 10.5*

 

All can be had for under $300 new if you can find them.

 

Are you sure about that...275-290 yards??? If so, that's great for a beginner.

 

New Drivers: Ping G5 10.5*

Cleveland Hibore 10.5*

Nike SQ MAX 10.5*

TaylorMade r7 460 10.5*

Callaway FT-3 10.5*

 

New isn't necessarily better!!!!!!!! Listed below are oldies, but goodies. You find them at Golf Galaxy or Golfsmith...to name a few!!! Or on ebay!!!

 

I play 4 & 7 wood they are about as long as a 3 and 5 wood, and they get the ball up easier.

 

Fairway Woods: Callaway Steelhead III

Adams rpm

Adams Ovation

TaylorMade 200 or 300 series

 

 

Newer

 

Fairway Woods: TaylorMade V-Steel

Nike T60

Cobra SZ

Callaway X

 

Hybrids: Adams A2 OS (best value)

Nickent

Callaway Heavenwood

04-05 TaylorMade Rescue

Cobra Baffler (easiest to hit)

 

Irons: Cobra 3100 (best value & easiest to hit)

TaylorMade OS2

Mizuno MX-17

Callaway X-18

PING G2 (not G5)

 

Mr. Wishon has some good stuff to say, but he's against major OEM companies. I think you can't go wrong with the BIG BOYS. If you like to make your own clubs component clubs, is the way to go. Save yourself the time and buy clubs already assembled, you can play a round of golf for the time it takes to assemble irons.

 

Wedges: Titleist Spin Milled (generates lots of spin, get this in a 60*)

Titleist 200 Series (great wedges, takes a while for the beginner to figure out how to hit them)

Cleveland CG11 (they have a cavity back that make it easier to hit)

PING TOUR (Golf Magazine rated it top choice this year, also has a cavity)

Callaway X (Callaway stole Roger Cleveland away from his own company to design wedges, his prior makes were awesome)

 

 

Mallet are traditionally played by higher handicapped players, but many pros use them too.

 

Putters: Mallets

Scotty Cameron RED X

TaylorMade Monza Corza (top performer)

Ping Craz E

Odyssey Two Ball (best for the money)

 

Blade:

Scotty Cameron Studio Stainless Newport 2 (internet only) (most popular)

Scotty Cameron Studio Stainless Laguna 2.5 (internet only) (best performer IMHO)

Scotty Cameron Studio Style Newport 2 (can find off the rack)

Yes! Callie (Best Value)

Never Compromise Milled Series #5

Never Compromise Milled Series #6

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Thanks for the reply. I was well beyond the 250 markers, but never got it past 290, from the markings on the course and driving ranges. I am still trying to get my consistancy down with the driver now though.

 

I thinking components are the way to go right now just because I can get alot of information and someone beside me helping me out who I am confident in. I really like the looks of the Snake Eye, Wishon and Killer Bee clubs.

 

I currently love my Paradise putter, it's a blade. I know it's cheap, but I've had good luck thus far with it.

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Still working on some options, but after talking to my local store, seeing their capabilities in customizing clubs, it looks like I may not go the component route.

 

My main question right now, is I do not carry any woods (still fairly bare bag). You can see what I have listed below. Is it better to get a second hybrid? Which I've been hitting alright, but not fantastic (still MUCH better than my comparable iron) or to get a fairway wood with the same loft on it? I'm going to demo both, but is one usually easier to hit?

 

I also got my driver numbers, in bare feet after a driving range session my distance on the Simulator was in the 260's mostly, ball speed in the 135-145 range mostly. I have an 11* firm driver (only firm) and was inconsistant with the launch angles. The distance was similar to what I've been hitting this season, since I changed my swing alot to help my game. Still isn't working out overly well for the driver (lost distance), but the slice is looking MUCH better and the irons seem to go MUCH better as well. I'll be hitting as many clubs as I can over the next few weeks. Start my lessons on Thursday :) (3-pack) and will see how they go before I determine to get more, which I likely will. I was in bare feet, a sweater and no glove with sweaty palms (because of the sweater) so I didn't get a great feel for what I was using. I was mostly trying what my Dad was looking at, so I'm not too worried about much of the results at this point, but figure it's a good ball park number to go with.

 

Can you tell your ideal flex via ball speed? Is higher ball speed better?

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