SC Pro Platinum nicks/scratches

Guys/Gals - I've picked up a "preloved" pp laguna and am looking to do some custom paintfill (pink for my new daughter). It has a few nicks in the topline and on the sole that I'm hoping can be sanded out. I've searched the forums and read several posts re: sanding on pp finishes. I'm not looking for a complete restore/refinish and don't think they are anything too deep. Can I use steel wool/sandpaper on this finish? Other threads have discussed the problem with the plating but I don't know if that applies to basic sanding, etc. Thanks in advance.

If you have pictures, that'd help evaluate.

I'm sure you can use sandpaper/steelwool, but you have a couple of obstacles. First, the plating is relatively thin, so you have to worry about compromising the effectiveness of the barrier it creates by sanding some of it away. Second, even if the marks are shallow enough to work out with sandpaper, you have to worry about recreating the somewhat misty finish that covers all but the face and sole. I imagine this finish is originally the product of some sand/beadblasting.

I don't know how good you are with metal finishing, but I know this is one project I'd stay away from if you have my skills. I know I'd do more harm than good.

I had Cameron do a Mil Spec (also PP) in pink and black paint fill, pink grip, pink headcover.....awesome.

I'd post pics but it's not here yet. I'll see if I can save some of the pics from the sale auction.

That "misty" finish comes from the steel wool, correct? Can it be polished with some sort of buffing wheel?

I'm sure the custom shop (and BOS and others) would do a wonderful job, but there's something about restoring this on my own, gaming it for several years, and then handing it down and knowing that I did the work. Of course, if I screw it up then it may not have been worth it...

as a follow-up, are the stainless camerons easier to sand, etc. by a do-it-yourselfer?

I was also wondering this. I have a Studio Stainless 2.5 that is in almost perfect condition other than 2 small indents on the topline. They wouldn't even be that noticeable except that they reflect light differently and are annoying at address.

Is there an easy way to sand, steel wool, or polish them off?

Thanks

I'd post pics but it's not here yet. I'll see if I can save some of the pics from the sale auction.

 

That "misty" finish comes from the steel wool, correct? Can it be polished with some sort of buffing wheel?

 

I'm sure the custom shop (and BOS and others) would do a wonderful job, but there's something about restoring this on my own, gaming it for several years, and then handing it down and knowing that I did the work. Of course, if I screw it up then it may not have been worth it...

I think the misty finish (you could also call it a satin finish) is from some sort of blasting--it's too even to be from steel wool. I'm sure you could get the whole head polished if you wanted to if you used fine-grit sandpaper.

as a follow-up, are the stainless camerons easier to sand, etc. by a do-it-yourselfer?

Yes and no. You still might have trouble recreating the factory satin/misty finish, but at least you don't have to worry about sanding too deep (within reason).

Ultimately, you might just want to give the refinish a shot on your own. After all, if it doesn't turn out, you can always send it to BOS, the Cameron Custom Shop, or Putter Plating and it'll come back as good as new.

I was also wondering this. I have a Studio Stainless 2.5 that is in almost perfect condition other than 2 small indents on the topline. They wouldn't even be that noticeable except that they reflect light differently and are annoying at address.

 

Is there an easy way to sand, steel wool, or polish them off?

 

Thanks

Here are some pictures of one I just bought. The top line had some nicks as well as some other areas of the putter. I used a buffing wheel and then polished it up. It turned out great! Pictures don't do it justice. First picture is before, hard to see nicks, next three pictures are after.

mike that's really really nice.

I don't have a buffing wheel so I went with an emory board file and some steel wool. I found that after working on it for about 20 minutes and wearing the file out, the small scratches on the topline and soul were much less noticeable and there was a nice polished shine to both surfaces. however, I wasn't able to fully remove them so that you can't see them at address.

Because the putter is so shiny, any small dent on the topline is very noticeable when light hits it.

Might go with a bit of custom paintfill next if its easy to do

mike that's really really nice.

 

I don't have a buffing wheel so I went with an emory board file and some steel wool. I found that after working on it for about 20 minutes and wearing the file out, the small scratches on the topline and soul were much less noticeable and there was a nice polished shine to both surfaces. however, I wasn't able to fully remove them so that you can't see them at address.

 

Because the putter is so shiny, any small dent on the topline is very noticeable when light hits it.

 

Might go with a bit of custom paintfill next if its easy to do

Thanks and the paintfill is easy to do. I have used a toothpick and testors paint a lot, and acetone to wipe up any over spill. I tried something different with this one and it worked much better. I bought some paint bottles and needles off the bay(paint was already in bottle)search for Cameron Paint. Needles were easy to work with and just used some adhesive remover if there was any overflow.

Hey Mike,

Did you end up putting clear nail polish over the putter in order to seal it? How does the paint stay?

thanks for the replies - Mike, that does look great. A polishing wheel on a dremel-type tool, I presume?