Swing weight factors in relation to parts

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  • K13K13 DenverMembers Posts: 142 ✭✭✭
    Stuart G. wrote:

    K13 wrote:


    One thing bugging me though is the impact on length - since the cap of the grip will add 1/4" to 1/2", should I not adjust that 9 sw point factor? Or is that what you've already done by making it nine instead of, say, 11 (which would make sense with a 50g shaft and a rule of thumb of 5/g/sw point + one or so for tape)?



    Thanks again.




    No, not usually. In fact, that's one of the reasons why it's better to use the scale w/o the grip. Variations in grip cap size will effect what the swing weight scale will read with the grip installed but it usually doesn't effect the actual playing length (or effective swing weight) - which is measured to the edge of the grip cap and not the top of any dome on the grip. Remember, It's the edge that will generally determine where we place our hands on the grip and the effective playing length/effective swing weight, not any part that sticks up above it. The GP NDMC is a perfect example where the grip can make the scale think the club is longer than it really is and therefore the SW heavier than it really is.




    Ah - that makes sense. Thank you!
  • mjbfybmjbfyb Members Posts: 311 ✭✭✭✭
    Can someone explain the difference between the Titleist Surefit performance guide and the information in this thread? According to this thread, if you cut your driver down 1” and want to retain the same swing weight, you would need to add 12 grams. The Titleist Surefit page says for 1” under the recommend weight is 4 grams heavier to produce the standard swing weight. What am I missing here?
  • J_BirdieJ_Birdie LOFT Issue Members Posts: 1,748 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Mar 1, 2019 9:35am #484
    I've always been told 1.5g per SW on driver, 2gr per SW on 7i, and 3g on SW on LW. I do know when I cut my LTD down a while back .5" it went from ~D4 to ~D0 and I added ~5g of weight and it came up to ~D3.5 or so.
    What's in my bag:
    Srixon Z785 9.5* w/ Tensei Pro Orange 70TX 45.5"
    Cobra Fly-Z+ 3W w/ Aldila Tour Blue 75X 42.75"
    Taylormade P790 UDI 2i / Diamana D+ 92HY X 1* Up 18* loft
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    Odyssey O-Works 7S Black with Superstroke GT 2.0 Pistol Grip 35"
  • Kale_mKale_m Members Posts: 1,938 ✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Made a thread but probbaly should have put this in this one instead...





    M3 Hl 3w head

    Tensei Pro orange 80tx shaft

    Length of the shaft plays at 42” in the head



    Was told the Sw is D0



    Want it back to D3 -D4



    I am looking at picking up another sole weight at 7g to add.



    By looking at the calculations this should bring me back to D3.5.



    Or will it be slightly lower due to the counter balance?



    If so, how much weight do I need to get the club back to my desired SW?
    Ping g410 plus 8* 1 flat Fuji pro 2.0 Ts 6x
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  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,846 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭
    Kale_m wrote:


    Made a thread but probbaly should have put this in this one instead...





    M3 Hl 3w head

    Tensei Pro orange 80tx shaft

    Length of the shaft plays at 42" in the head



    Was told the Sw is D0



    Want it back to D3 -D4



    I am looking at picking up another sole weight at 7g to add.



    By looking at the calculations this should bring me back to D3.5.



    Or will it be slightly lower due to the counter balance?



    If so, how much weight do I need to get the club back to my desired SW?




    No. The new thread was a better idea.



    But if your "desired" SW wasn't determined with the exact same shaft model, shaft weight and playing length - then you shouldn't be overly focused on that particular SW value. You need to do a little testing to find out what the best SW is for this particular combination.
  • Kanzas_AnthonyKanzas_Anthony Members Posts: 47 ✭✭

    Hello, I am going to set my clubs up next week and I would love any input on my questions! It will be greatly appreciated. Here are my questions.
    1.I like a midsized grip with 5 wraps on the bottom--how much swing weight will that add?
    2.Is there any noticeable difference between putting lead hosel weights and adding lead tape to the head?
    3.If I have, for example, my 8 iron with the 7 iron shaft, how much more upright will that be and how much will the swing weight be affected?

    Thanks, hoping to get some feedback. I'll keep reading the rest of this thread, but thought I'd just ask here real quick.

    Trust you heart, not your head.

  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,846 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Jun 21, 2019 8:11am #488

    @Kanzas_Anthony said:
    1.I like a midsized grip with 5 wraps on the bottom--how much swing weight will that add?

    It wont. It might change what a swing weight scale will read but true swing weight is always based on the club having a 50 gm grip - regardless of the actual grip weight

    2.Is there any noticeable difference between putting lead hosel weights and adding lead tape to the head?

    Not for the vast majority of people - as long as the weight is a reasonable amount (10gm or less). More and there may be a little bit higher percentage of players that might notice the difference. Typically only those with a very highly refined sense of feel from the club.

    3.If I have, for example, my 8 iron with the 7 iron shaft, how much more upright will that be and how much will the swing weight be affected?

    depends on what you do with the length when you put in the 7 iron shaft. If you keep it at 7 iron length, (+1/2" longer than the 8 iron) then it will be 3 pts heavier. If you cut it back down to 8 iron length - there will be no noticeable change.

  • JD3JD3 Members Posts: 4,813 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    For custom orders how do OEMs make adjustments to keep standard swingweight (i usually see D2 steel). But whenever I've seen am OEM installed shaft.removed I've never seen the adjustment techniques fitters use like tape or tungsten powder, etc

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  • ptroedssonptroedsson Members Posts: 30 ✭✭
    edited Aug 21, 2019 6:05am #490

    I have read couple of hours on the forum trying to figure out how I could shorten my Miuras CB-801 with Shimada Tour Mid shafts. They are +1/2” meaning I5 is 38,5”, I6 38” etc. The club maker used Tour velvet midsize grip with 4 layers on lower hand. My question is how I best decrease the length with 1/4” keeping correct swing weight and in best case could re-use new grips? To be exact I understand the grips for example can differ +-3,5 gram from production but I would be happy enough if I can manage to achieve close to correct swing weight.

    Thanks in advance.

    Post edited by ptroedsson on
  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,846 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Aug 21, 2019 9:10am #491

    @ptroedsson said:
    I have read couple of hours on the forum trying to figure out how I could shorten my Miuras CB-801 with Shimada Tour Mid shafts. They are +1/2” meaning I5 is 38,5”, I6 38” etc. The club maker used Tour velvet midsize grip with 4 layers on lower hand. My question is how I best decrease the length with 1/4” keeping correct swing weight and in best case could re-use new grips? To be exact I understand the grips for example can differ +-3,5 gram from production but I would be happy enough if I can manage to achieve close to correct swing weight.

    Thanks in advance.

    !/2" shorter length means adding about 6 gm to the head to get SW back. It really varies by length so best to use a swing weight scale (without the grips installed). Grip weight changes should typically be ignored.

    So basically, remove grips, measure swing weight, cut length down, adjust head weight to get the swing weight back, then finally reinstall grips.

    Some builders can safely remove the grips for re-use. It can be a PITA though so not all builders will take it on and some grip models are easier than others.

  • ptroedssonptroedsson Members Posts: 30 ✭✭

    Thanks for clarifying Stuart! The club builder didn’t counter balance the weight more than the extra grams midsize 4 layers grip brings. I assume that means I could just cut the lower (hosel part) of the shaft 1/2” and not compensate for swing weight accepting the shaft gets a bit stiffer (no need to remove grips in that case), or am I missing something?

    @Stuart_G said:

    @ptroedsson said:
    I have read couple of hours on the forum trying to figure out how I could shorten my Miuras CB-801 with Shimada Tour Mid shafts. They are +1/2” meaning I5 is 38,5”, I6 38” etc. The club maker used Tour velvet midsize grip with 4 layers on lower hand. My question is how I best decrease the length with 1/4” keeping correct swing weight and in best case could re-use new grips? To be exact I understand the grips for example can differ +-3,5 gram from production but I would be happy enough if I can manage to achieve close to correct swing weight.

    Thanks in advance.

    !/2" shorter length means adding about 6 gm to the head to get SW back. It really varies by length so best to use a swing weight scale (without the grips installed). Grip weight changes should typically be ignored.

    So basically, remove grips, measure swing weight, cut length down, adjust head weight to get the swing weight back, then finally reinstall grips.

    Some builders can safely remove the grips for re-use. It can be a PITA though so not all builders will take it on and some grip models are easier than others.

    @Stuart_G said:

    @ptroedsson said:
    I have read couple of hours on the forum trying to figure out how I could shorten my Miuras CB-801 with Shimada Tour Mid shafts. They are +1/2” meaning I5 is 38,5”, I6 38” etc. The club maker used Tour velvet midsize grip with 4 layers on lower hand. My question is how I best decrease the length with 1/4” keeping correct swing weight and in best case could re-use new grips? To be exact I understand the grips for example can differ +-3,5 gram from production but I would be happy enough if I can manage to achieve close to correct swing weight.

    Thanks in advance.

    !/2" shorter length means adding about 6 gm to the head to get SW back. It really varies by length so best to use a swing weight scale (without the grips installed). Grip weight changes should typically be ignored.

    So basically, remove grips, measure swing weight, cut length down, adjust head weight to get the swing weight back, then finally reinstall grips.

    Some builders can safely remove the grips for re-use. It can be a PITA though so not all builders will take it on and some grip models are easier than others.

  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,846 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭
    edited Aug 21, 2019 3:56pm #493

    @ptroedsson said:
    I assume that means I could just cut the lower (hosel part) of the shaft 1/2” and not compensate for swing weight accepting the shaft gets a bit stiffer (no need to remove grips in that case), or am I missing something?

    The change in swing weight and the need to compensate with head weight is purely a function of the final length change - it doesn't have anything to do with which end of the shaft you remove the 1/2" from.

    Getting a good fit for swing weight can be fairly important for most golfers - so skipping the compensation is not usually a good idea - but that assumes that the player was fit to the original swing weight (which is frequently not the case). So it's hard to say what might be the side-effects of not compensating the head weight.

    Which end of the shaft you take the 1/2" off of can effect how the stiffness feel of the shaft might change. Remove it from the butt end (and adjust the head weight to compensate) means the shaft might feel a touch softer - although usually not enough to be noticeable for most. Remove the 1/2" from the tip side (e.g. pull the heads, cut 1/2" of the tip and reinstall the head) and also adjust the head weights and they'll probably play a touch firmer than they did at the longer length - again a very small amount - may not even be noticeable.

    BUT - only single length parallel tip iron shafts can be tip trimmed at all. Tapered tip shafts and discrete length parallel tip shafts are BUTT CUT ONLY. Although you could 'hard step' them to get similar results - the same length change plus the slight stiffening (e.g. move the 8 iron shaft into the 7 iron, etc...).

  • ptroedssonptroedsson Members Posts: 30 ✭✭

    Thank you Stuart! Hard stepping sounds like the best idea in order to spare the new grips and avoid cutting as much as possible. That means I will only have to shorten one shaft (4 iron and use as PW) right?

  • Stuart_GStuart_G New HampshireMembers Posts: 23,846 ✭✭✭✭✭✭✭

    @ptroedsson said:
    Thank you Stuart! Hard stepping sounds like the best idea in order to spare the new grips and avoid cutting as much as possible. That means I will only have to shorten one shaft (4 iron and use as PW) right?

    No, it means you'll have to buy one new shaft for the PW. If you try to use the 4 iron shaft in the PW it will be the equivalent of soft stepping that shaft 6 times - which will basically turn it into a wet noodle (very roughly equivalent to making it two flexes softer).

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