Swing weight factors in relation to parts

Why isn't this pinned anymore? This is one of my goto posts.

Thanks Mods!

Yes! It's back..

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1154037578' post='248269']

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

4* flatter lie = increase 1 swing weight point[/quote]


Which way?

How about adding weight the bottom of the shaft, just above the hosel? How many grams do I need to add right above the hosel to increase 1 swingweight point? Thanks!

Is there a rule of thumb about how much an increase or decrease of swingweights changes flex of shaft?

[quote name='g8rgolfer' timestamp='1305611724' post='3240421']
[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1154037578' post='248269']
9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

4* flatter lie = increase 1 swing weight point[/quote]


Which way?
[/quote]
Both ways vice versa!

[quote name='Minty7890' timestamp='1305763194' post='3245539']
How about adding weight the bottom of the shaft, just above the hosel? How many grams do I need to add right above the hosel to increase 1 swingweight point? Thanks!
[/quote]
2 gr

[quote name='aliikane' timestamp='1305959763' post='3251427']
Is there a rule of thumb about how much an increase or decrease of swingweights changes flex of shaft?
[/quote]
No changes!

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1306040583' post='3253244']
[quote name='aliikane' timestamp='1305959763' post='3251427']
Is there a rule of thumb about how much an increase or decrease of swingweights changes flex of shaft?
[/quote]
No changes!
[/quote]

Can you please go into detail as to why this is correct? How can adding lead tape to a head NOT make the shaft easier to load? Just as an example if an iron is at C5 it's going to feel more "boardy" and launch lower than the exact same iron with enough tape to get it to D5. How is this possible if the shaft isn't flexing more in the transition? I bring up this scenario because I just added 1/2" to my MP-60's and added enough tape to get them all to D2. The difference is night and day in being able to feel the shaft load and the ball launching higher.

Joe, removing paintfill change the swing weight?

If you need to significantly lower swingweight due to hot melt in the head, and don't want to deal with getting it out, are you better off to add weight with a heavier grip and a backweight like a Tour Lock insert (need to drop 6 SW points (add about 30 gms) from D9 to D3) or just put it all in the insert. Can get maybe 5 more grams in the grip and would be putting a 20 or 30 gm insert. Essentially, where will the weight be least felt statically and most benefit swing wise? Thanks
Jeff

Nice, very helpful

[quote name='SergioKSU' timestamp='1307334978' post='3287164']
[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1306040583' post='3253244']
[quote name='aliikane' timestamp='1305959763' post='3251427']
Is there a rule of thumb about how much an increase or decrease of swingweights changes flex of shaft?
[/quote]
No changes!
[/quote]

Can you please go into detail as to why this is correct? How can adding lead tape to a head NOT make the shaft easier to load? Just as an example if an iron is at C5 it's going to feel more "boardy" and launch lower than the exact same iron with enough tape to get it to D5. How is this possible if the shaft isn't flexing more in the transition? I bring up this scenario because I just added 1/2" to my MP-60's and added enough tape to get them all to D2. The difference is night and day in being able to feel the shaft load and the ball launching higher.
[/quote]

Sorry, I should reread the first question carefully.

Changing SW will change flex 1-2 cpm per 1 point swing weight. So to make a drastic change of flex will need a huge sw change. Most of us can't feel up to 4 cpm.

1/2" is equal to 6gr plus the additional weight adjustment for you to adjust it to a D2 will definitely make a different IMO.

[quote name='acquadiice' timestamp='1307369271' post='3287697']
Joe, removing paintfill change the swing weight?
[/quote]
Paint weight in the paintfill is not heavy enough to change the SW.

[quote name='Jscopus' timestamp='1311127512' post='3406182']
If you need to significantly lower swingweight due to hot melt in the head, and don't want to deal with getting it out, are you better off to add weight with a heavier grip and a backweight like a Tour Lock insert (need to drop 6 SW points (add about 30 gms) from D9 to D3) or just put it all in the insert. Can get maybe 5 more grams in the grip and would be putting a 20 or 30 gm insert. Essentially, where will the weight be least felt statically and most benefit swing wise? Thanks
Jeff
[/quote]

Sorry, I don't believe in counter weighting. It's like cheating without solving the problem IMO.

If you build the overall weight of a putter to make it heavier but the swingweight remains the same (bigger grip + lead tape on bottom of head) will you putt more balls past..? I cannot figure it out. I would imagine more weight behind the ball would hit it further but dont know how it relates with swingweight. Thanks!

[quote name='joey3108' timestamp='1154037578' post='248269']
Remember, this is just a ball park figure for normal most case.

Some shaft have tip or butt weight balance point that can not be applied on this rules.

1/2" = 3 swing weight points

2 gr club head weight = 1 swing weight point

If I remove a 1/2 inch will that bring the SW down? Right now I have a driver at a d7 if I take it down a 1/2 will it make it a d4?
5 gr grip = 1 swing weight point

9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point

4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point

Joe
[/quote]

If I remove a 1/2 inch will that bring the SW down? Right now I have a driver at a d7 if I take it down a 1/2 will it make it a d4?

[quote name='bfrey64' timestamp='1311895828' post='3432623']If I remove a 1/2 inch will that bring the SW down? Right now I have a driver at a d7 if I take it down a 1/2 will it make it a d4?
[/quote]

yup, that's right around where it'll be. a d7 swing weight for a driver doesn't sound like fun

IMO, swing wt is the cheapest way, (and I do mean CHEAP), of balancing the clubs out. I much perfer taking the heads off of the shafts, weighing the heads and either drilling out wt from the hosel or adding lead tip wt so all the heads are 6-8 grams apart from each other. This makes for a very nice feeling set of clubs with proper shafts lengths.

For those of you that think this is way too difficult, it isn't. If one has any mechanical skill at all this is a very easy process, you just need the tools and they aren't all that expensive.

I wish I knew this stuff a few weeks ago! Thanks Joey.

This is probably a dumb question but oh well!
Does it matter if you tip the shaft a 1/2 inch or cut it off the butt end a 1/2 inch. I assume it would create the same results but just checking.

If you tip the shaft by 1/2" it will stiffen it up the flex of the shaft. If you take a 1/2" off of the butt it won't do much except shorten your shaft a little.

ok i am green on this stuff. I just put a 3/4 inch extension at the end of my driver. i have the R11 with upgraded blur shaft. I was wondering if there is a solution to get the swingweight to what it was before with just changing the inserts in the R11 somehow. I currently have 10 grams in the heel and 1 gram in the toe. Is it as easy as this? THanks for any help

Go to a 2 gram weight instead of the 10 and you should be pretty close to the swingweight of the club before the extension

what is the best brand lead tape for irons?

that's a fine way to get it done but i prefer my weight to be added away from the hosel it changes the COG, makes it lower and in the heel helping you hook and hit the higher ball.


[quote name='78blades' timestamp='1311917708' post='3433214']
IMO, swing wt is the cheapest way, (and I do mean CHEAP), of balancing the clubs out. I much perfer taking the heads off of the shafts, weighing the heads and either drilling out wt from the hosel or adding lead tip wt so all the heads are 6-8 grams apart from each other. This makes for a very nice feeling set of clubs with proper shafts lengths.

For those of you that think this is way too difficult, it isn't. If one has any mechanical skill at all this is a very easy process, you just need the tools and they aren't all that expensive.
[/quote]

I have a superfast 2.0 non tp. swingweight according to Taylormades site is D9. I am planning on putting a mfs 65n s-2 (kj choi orange shaft in it) I think I read somewhere the the bbgm is 2.25" so the shaft needs to be tipped 3/4" for it to play like it's supposed to. which leads me to the question: what do I need to tell them to do to get it to the same d9 swingweight at a 44 3/4" playing length? actually taking the club in tomorrow so any fast help would be greatly appreciated.

email [email protected]

thanks a million

@georgiaboy

Ultimately I perfer to drill the wt out to get all the heads 6-8 grams apart, and only add tip wt when absolutely necessary. When I do add wt its usually only 2 grams; I don't like to add more than 4 grams, but thats just me.

I came across a post some months ago on here where the poster was saying that if you got all the heads 8 grams apart from each other it was a cheap way of MOI'ing the clubs. Have you heard anything about this?

can't say i have heard about that "78blades" but i don't look into the swing weight stuff anymore much. I kinda just think it's paralysis by analysis in this day and age with the manufacturing being as good as it is, especially in the upper end clubs.

so, had him tip it 1/2", and cut to a 45" playing length. weird part is that it was a 65g shaft and now it feels head heavy. why would that be. oh yeah 25g grip too

thats a SUPER light grip, is it the same grip as you had on there before? if not, that could be the reason for the head feeling heavy.

georgiaboy

I do agree that the upper end manufacturing is better, but the OEM's don't really seem to care very much when assembling the clubs. This is why I take my club apart and weigh the heads. I've had 4i head weigh more than 5i head, and that was a set of Mizuno's! After I corrected that, that set of clubs played very good. This is also why I won't buy new clubs from the OEM. I end up taking them apart and weighing & spining and that voids the warrenty. Less expensive to buy a relatively little used set for me, so thats what I do now.