How to restore a Scotty TeI3 in 2 hours...

RookieBlue7RookieBlue7 Members Posts: 13,158 ✭✭
edited Jan 26, 2012 in WRX Club Techs #1
Just finished a Santa Fe Two quick turn around....
There have been some people wondering things about TeI3 putters lately. Since I had one to restore for a friend that plays in my normal foursome for his business trip, I figured I'd do a quickie DIY for those interested in tearing one down, etc. So, I took photos as I remembered to do so. Here it is (one pic is from the Longneck I restored a while back because I forgot to take a pic of that step).



The tools: Pick, Syringe, Mini-file kit, 1/16 allen wrench (not pictured), Low-Odor Mineral Spirits(not pictured, even though I took one, can't find it where I uploaded them at) and Tal-Strip (not pictured).



The Putter: The original owner had painted it years ago to keep it from rusting. The paint chipped, it still rusted, that's that. He asked me to refinish it, but wanted to be sure I'd have time to redo it before his business trip tomorrow. I told him to drop it off and I'd have it done for him in a few hours. He couldn't believe it, but dropped her off. I finished it in 2 hours flat and he's happy with his new/old flatstick. I've played with this guy for 8-10 years, and he's just now letting me rework it (though admittedly I haven't ever offered to do any work for anyone other than builds until recently and it's just for friends that want their putters reworked. I'm by no means commercial, just a garage hobbiest that enjoys it).





Don't know if you can see it, but there's a wrinkle in the topline near the center of the insert. It was significant enough that it made the insert hard to even get out. I managed to, though, and I knew I had to rework that wrinkle, which could've made my time frame off (it normally takes about an hour and a half to redo a TeI3 before doing the finish).





Next step is to soften the dots. Some people soak them in mineral spirits. Well, I don't like to waste the stuff, not to mention it's not necessary. I use the syringe (local farm store for animals, it's a 1cc model) to inject mineral spirits into each dot of elastomer. I let them sit fr 5 or so minutes and each one pops right out with the pick. After they're out, remove the 4 screws with the allen wrench (this is the first one I've ever done where the screws weren't in the two outside holes. (You can see where these are at in the pictures, good thing I removed all of the elastomer beforehand or I'd have been searching and waiting on the mineral spirits longer.) Once the screws are out, take the pick and push from the backside of the dots where the screws weren't (I usually go near the ends because they wiggle it out quicker, though this one took a little more effort due to the wrinkle.)





Next, I sprayed it liberally with Tal-Strip, to remove the DIY paintjob he did. I always use Tal-Strip to remove paintfill, but this whole head was painted, so it got a good coating. I like the aerosol. There's more control with the liquid, but I wanted to strip everything, so there was no need to get cute with it. Coat her up. You should get this afterward:





Now's the time to go to work on it. I put the putter head in a vice and get busy. First, I straighten out the topline, using a body dolly for working on cars (don't know it's real name, that's what my dad always called them, and I got the tools when he passed away. There are lots of shapes, I chose the one with the straight edge we used to fix a fender on my car one time.) I tapped lightly and straightened it out. Next, I went to work with the files. It's hard to take a picture of me filing on my own, so there's not one of that. The insert had 2 dimples at the top (where they milled away a section of the insert, the big mill holes at the top in the previous picture) and the point of the mill or drill bit made a little dimple from pressure from the backside. I'm a little anal about that, so I filed those down flat too. I put the insert back in to file the face so it'd be planed with the rest of the face. I then went progressive through different grits of paper, finishing up with 800 grit (I don't like to go higher because of glare here. It smooths up nice, but doesn't produce glare in the blazing sun. You can go finer if you'd like and glare isn't an issue. I've done them down to 2000 before). This is the most time consuming part, as you're constantly working and your fingers cramp, etc. Fight through it and keep going. I don't remember what part of sanding these were taken at, but here's some pics after some filing and sanding. I did go a little finer grit for the insert to shine the copper up nice. I went to 1500 grit there. Much more and the first putt he hits will make a mark anyway.





Keep working it until you're happy with the metal's smoothness. The finer grit you go, the more glare you'll see later. So make sure you know your playing conditions.



Next comes the bluing/black ox. I have both super blue and Caswell black ox gel. Hadn't use the caswell before, So I tried it out. The gel stays where you put it, that's for sure. Either will produce fine results, I just wanted to try their product out.





Coat it fairly generously and rub like crazy with a gloved hand (it doesn't say to do that, but after experimenting with it, that was the best way to even the color out, IMO). Once it sits for a few minutes (I did 3 minutes, it says to go anywhere between 30 seconds and 5 minutes) rinse it off with water and polish with some steel wool. Repeat until you get the color you want.





Next, the insert goes back in. There are two ways to do it. Put the insert in then do the elastomer. The other is to put the elastomer in the cavity before putting it in and it'll force the elastomer through the holes so they're completely full. I prefer the latter. The only thing you'll have to do is squigee and then clean up afterward. With the other, you make a bigger mess and it takes longer to clean up, plus you won't have elastomer behind the insert between it and the metal. That is what makes these feel right, IMO. So that's why I do it that way.

Here is is after the insert is in and I remembered to take a pic before cleaning it all up. This is post squigeeing:



Once it's squigeed off, use a lightly dampened paper towel (very light) and wipe off the excess.



Do the paintfill of your choice and let it dry (make sure to do the acetone wash because it smooths it out and makes it dry quicker. I also hit it with a heatgun on low for 45 seconds. This cures it quick and you get done quicker.



After that's done, coat it with the oil of your choice, or in this case, the Caswell sealer and you're ready to reshaft.



Could I have done it better? Sure, but I was under time constraints. He wanted it to look good, which it does according to him, but I had to hurry and do it. With mine, I do them quick because I usually do it for a beater I want to game. If I like it, and don't quite like the refinish, I'll redo them being a little more meticulous. Anyway, hope this helps those of you wanting to tear one of these down. If nothing else, hope it helps you figure out how to get it apart. Oh and the 2 hours doesn't include the 30 mins-1 hour I waited before doing the sealer and then oiling (wanted to make sure everything was dry enough that it wouldn't run when the sealer or the oil was applied).



Mods, if this is in the wrong area, please move it to the appropriate one. Wasn't sure where to put it.





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Edit, I think I corrected most of the grammar as this is the first time I've looked at this post in a while.
Post edited by Unknown User on
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Comments

  • hititbig2112hititbig2112 Members Posts: 540
    Wow!!! Good work. That looks really good, and it makes it even better that you did it in 2 hours.
  • TMfan54TMfan54 NJMembers Posts: 2,248 ✭✭
    very nice
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  • indianwoodproindianwoodpro Members Posts: 399 ✭✭
    [size="7"]SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/size]
  • TRoc9892TRoc9892 NICE SHOT! ClubWRX Posts: 884 ✭✭
    [color="#353535"]image/clapping.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':clapping:' /> Wow, that's amazing.

    The custom finish your friend did really made the putter seem worse.[/color]
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  • RookieBlue7RookieBlue7 Members Posts: 13,158 ✭✭
    He's had it since it was brand new and it's been in his bag the whole time. I gave him a headcover for it because he'd lost his original one. He never used it or the one I gave him. He wonders how it got so beat up and then rusted. He painted it a few years ago. He's wanted to send it off but didn't want to pay the CS's TeI3 charge. I tried to get him to send it a few other places and he's never done it. He kept sawing me bringing new putters I'd redone and he just asked if I'd do it because he wasn't going to ever send it off (I tried to buy it from him 4 or 5 times so I could restore it and game it. Then I tried to steal it from him once to have it refinished. He caught me. So when I started DIY'ng mine, he watched. I redid the Longneck recently, and that's when he asked, after seeing it.
  • glara11glara11 Members Posts: 7
    I love your post. I have an original tei3 Newport, and I'd like to do it myself. I think the most

    Confusing part for me is the elastomer. What material did you use to replace it?

    If I destroy the original elastomer is it easily replaceable?

    Have you ever thought about torching one?



    Thanks
  • BuzzkillBuzzkill Marshals Posts: 6,774 mod


    Wow!!! Good work. That looks really good, and it makes it even better that you did it in 2 hours.




    You got that right!
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  • Titleist-GolferTitleist-Golfer I'd rather be driving a Titleist Members Posts: 3,094 ✭✭
    glara11 wrote:


    I love your post. I have an original tei3 Newport, and I'd like to do it myself. I think the most

    Confusing part for me is the elastomer. What material did you use to replace it?

    If I destroy the original elastomer is it easily replaceable?

    Have you ever thought about torching one?



    Thanks




    Exactly ... where do you buy elastomer?



    And what torque did you tighten to when replacing the insert? Didn't see that in your project notes above.



    Great job!
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  • GolfwolfGolfwolf Members Posts: 2,635
    Great job, pics are very good, now it looks sweet!!
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  • optionstraderbcoptionstraderbc Unregistered Posts: 1,230
  • RookieBlue7RookieBlue7 Members Posts: 13,158 ✭✭

    glara11 wrote:


    I love your post. I have an original tei3 Newport, and I'd like to do it myself. I think the most

    Confusing part for me is the elastomer. What material did you use to replace it?

    If I destroy the original elastomer is it easily replaceable?

    Have you ever thought about torching one?



    Thanks




    Exactly ... where do you buy elastomer?



    And what torque did you tighten to when replacing the insert? Didn't see that in your project notes above.



    Great job!




    I use this: http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/3006_ultra_all_purpose_elastomeric_sealant/



    It's an elastomeric sealant.



    As far as the torque, I tighten them finger tight then snug them a quarter turn. I don't have a torque wrench that's that small.
  • hebron1427hebron1427 Older. Slower. Weaker. AtlJeff Members Posts: 3,720
    great post. I may try this on a TeI3 long neck that I just got. It's the original TeI3, so it doesn't have the elastomer ring around the insert. Should be fun.
  • The Long ballThe Long ball Members Posts: 294 ✭✭
    wow I thought I did a good job on mine, now I'm almost embarrassed to show it!
  • EyntEynt Members Posts: 460
    Wow, I'm very impressed!
  • WilCoxWilCox Members Posts: 1,545 ✭✭
    That Scotty was pretty beat up. You did an amazing restore on it. Good work.
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  • robbo32robbo32 Members Posts: 584 ✭✭
    Holy crap that looks amazing! Great work Rookie.
  • AwalkspoiledAwalkspoiled Members Posts: 3,308 ✭✭
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  • The Long ballThe Long ball Members Posts: 294 ✭✭
    How many times did you rub the blue paste on there to get it that dark? I used the Super Blue paste 5x and it didnt get that black it really like gunmetal grey?
  • GetmeouttaJerseyGetmeouttaJersey Golf? Members Posts: 2,590
    Amazing. Great work man!
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  • RookieBlue7RookieBlue7 Members Posts: 13,158 ✭✭
    edited Feb 11, 2011 #21


    How many times did you rub the blue paste on there to get it that dark? I used the Super Blue paste 5x and it didnt get that black it really like gunmetal grey?






    With the Caswell's, twice. The first time it was dark, but I wasn't happy with it, so I did it again to make sure it was like I wanted it to be. With the Birchwood, it used to take 4 coats. The gel is thicker and will stay in place and not evaporate. It gets a crusty film on it when it starts drying. I wipe that off by hand then rinse by hand (swapping gloves each time).
  • lapslgg2lapslgg2 Members Posts: 119
    I'm waiting on some Caswell Gel to arrive that I am going to use on some I15's.

    A WRXer recommended I dip the iron in muriatic acid before using the gel.



    Any comments or advice would be apreciatted!!
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  • CAJ4AUCAJ4AU Don't Drink and BST ...or eBay either! Members Posts: 1,833 ✭✭
    That finished product looks amazing! nice work! image/clapping.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':clapping:' />
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  • sevenfouratesevenfourate Devotee of OCD ENGLAND.Members Posts: 1,882 ✭✭
    I reckon you can get the next one down and done in 1.5 hours max next time...now you havn't got to mess around with taking photos again image/laugh.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':lol:' />





    GREAT job,GREAT pictures and GREAT result.
    Regards - 'Shuv'

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  • ETERNAL06ETERNAL06 Members Posts: 514 ✭✭
    That is an amazing job. Great post.
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  • DixieMafiaDixieMafia Banned Posts: 489
    Great work. It really turnedout nice!
  • RookieBlue7RookieBlue7 Members Posts: 13,158 ✭✭
    lapslgg2 wrote:


    I'm waiting on some Caswell Gel to arrive that I am going to use on some I15's.

    A WRXer recommended I dip the iron in muriatic acid before using the gel.



    Any comments or advice would be apreciatted!!




    I've read that some people etch with acid for the stainless blackener, never with the black ox though. I'd also recommend that if you're doing the I15's, since they're 17-4 stainless, that you make sure to get the stainless steel blackener (which I made a post for a blackened Scotty in putters) to do it with, not the black ox. The black ox won't work on the stainless, just carbon steel.



    With the SS blackener, I didn't etch the Squareback with anything, I simply prepped it and used the same rub on method as this putter. Some people recommend etching, which might not be a bad idea either. I think they sell a kit for that on their site. I chose not to because the SS blackener is an acidic blackener, according to their site. I would make sure I prepped them well though, and check and see if they put any kind of sealer on their irons (their sealer, if present, would have to be stripped).You could always test a non-conspicuous area on the club (hosel on the backside would be where I'd test it) to see if there's a sealer on there. If there isn't, prep the metal and rub it in and rinse it off.
  • MMIXMMIX Members Posts: 924 ✭✭
    Amazing job and wonderful write up... And in 2 hours??? partytime2.gif I'm pretty much speechless... Bravo! clapping.gif
  • MirageMirage Members Posts: 310
    I could spend a week and not get those results. image/rolleyes.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rolleyes:' />



    Great job!
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  • lapslgg2lapslgg2 Members Posts: 119
    edited Feb 12, 2011 #30

    lapslgg2 wrote:


    I'm waiting on some Caswell Gel to arrive that I am going to use on some I15's.

    A WRXer recommended I dip the iron in muriatic acid before using the gel.



    Any comments or advice would be apreciatted!!




    I've read that some people etch with acid for the stainless blackener, never with the black ox though. I'd also recommend that if you're doing the I15's, since they're 17-4 stainless, that you make sure to get the stainless steel blackener (which I made a post for a blackened Scotty in putters) to do it with, not the black ox. The black ox won't work on the stainless, just carbon steel.



    With the SS blackener, I didn't etch the Squareback with anything, I simply prepped it and used the same rub on method as this putter. Some people recommend etching, which might not be a bad idea either. I think they sell a kit for that on their site. I chose not to because the SS blackener is an acidic blackener, according to their site. I would make sure I prepped them well though, and check and see if they put any kind of sealer on their irons (their sealer, if present, would have to be stripped).You could always test a non-conspicuous area on the club (hosel on the backside would be where I'd test it) to see if there's a sealer on there. If there isn't, prep the metal and rub it in and rinse it off.






    Thanks!!



    Great job on the putter.
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  • VilladsenVilladsen Members Posts: 117
    Excellent job on the restoration as well as the write-up.



    Very inspirational, thanks.
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