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Satinized my Epon blades. how to do it without a dremmel.

 Spoon ·  
SpoonSpoon Members  2332WRX Points: 109Posts: 2,332 Platinum Tees
Joined:  in WRX Club Techs #1
ok guys decided to post these as they are too beautiful to not share. i am pretty proud of my achievement.<br />
i think they did not turn out too shabby. note that this is my first attempt to satinize a golf club head. i never<br />
bothered to satinize my previous 302 and aftour irons because of lack of motivation and lack of a dremmel<br />
tool.<br />
<br />
however, when i received my personals, i found the mirror finish a bit too much for me, i think it was the angular<br />
lines that give the effect of more bling and shine. i was actually going to leave it alone but having played with my<br />
dad over the weekend he commented that they were soo shiny you could use it as a mirror to check your hair out<br />
in the course. Lol that was it and i decided to take the plunge and SATINIZE.<br />
<br />
now if i had a dremmel tool or powertool i would have had this a long time ago but since i do not, i decided to do<br />
it the old fashioned way and perform some elbow grease. i purchased 800 grit fine sandpaper and some scotchbrite<br />
scouring pads(the green one for dishwashing).<br />
<br />
i first attempted to use the scotchbrite but after 10 mins there was no improvement and no abrasion to the chrome.<br />
i then tried the 800 grit sandpaper but still no improvement. i guess this is testament to the quality of endo's chrome<br />
finishing, was soo robust like a thick armour.<br />
<br />
this wasnt part of my original plan but i got desperate and got 150 grit sandpaper, i luckily had some stock of JDM silicone<br />
carbide sandpaper( normal kind) at home so decided to first test on my 3 iron. it was hard at first but it worked. takes guts<br />
and a steady hand to scratch $2k + set of heads but ive come too far.<br />
<br />
the first passes will feel strange, your scratching up the surface of your irons, you are really scratching up the chrome<br />
to get the shine out, remember that this stage is not so crucial, just try to scrape in one direction, scratches will be uneven<br />
but its ok you can fix this in stage 2. i did not see the need to tape up the other areas since the chrome muscles are pronounced<br />
and separated.<br />
<br />
once i got the chrome part scuffed up i then proceeded to use grit 800 fine sandpaper. the 800 grit sandpaper is what took the most time, roughly 10 mins per head since im very very OC. this is what evens out stage one , now its looking more satin.<br />
<br />
stage 3 is using the scotchbrite pad to even out everything and blending the scratches. i probaly spent 15 mins per head because<br />
im so oc, could have done it in half the time. if you do it this way just remember to wet the heads every so often, this will take away<br />
the chrome dust and also make it easier with less friction. apply mild pressure in stage 1, medium pressure on stage 2, the most pressure in stage 3.<br />
<br />
the tricky part is getting the curved part above and along the lines of the epon logo. stage 1 and 2 will defintely show scratches but stage 3 will smooth them out into a seamless blur.<br />
<br />
note that i am not a machine, so i tried to get it as perfect as possible but like an old fashioned samurai sword or blade, you can<br />
see that its a bit assymetrical. i think it gives it character and adds to the rustic look. i also cleaned out the paintfil for a more<br />
zen like appearance. and guys, they are not as difficult as you would think. just take your time and be patient and it will turn out alright.<br />
<br />
<br />
note the first pictures are with dust, the close ups are how they are. shes looking good without the makeup<br />
<br />
how they originally were:<br />
photo-1-4.jpg<br />
photo-1-3.jpg<br />
photo-9.jpg<br />
<br />
now:<br />
photo-2-3.jpg<br />
photo-12.jpg<br />
photo-3-2.jpg<br />


  • PondyPondy Sanibel Island, FL Members  2496WRX Points: 0Posts: 2,496
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    Under the chrome there is most likely a 'copper strike' which could now be exposed to the elements and rust your clubs. The chrome plate is there to protect the underlying carbon steel.<br />
    <br />
    Why not just have them bead blasted to produce a satin finish?
    Driver #1: TM Aeroburner TP 10.5 °
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  • GolfWRXGolfWRX Warning Points: 0  11 Members Posts: 11 #ad
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  • SpoonSpoon Members  2332WRX Points: 109Posts: 2,332 Platinum Tees
    Joined:  #3
    Pondy wrote:
    <br />
    Under the chrome there is most likely a 'copper strike' which could now be exposed to the elements and rust your clubs. The chrome plate is there to protect the underlying carbon steel.<br />
    <br />
    Why not just have them bead blasted to produce a satin finish?<br />
    <br />
    <br />
    no access to a bead blasting cabinet or facility. that was my first choice.<br />
    i made sure to go light with the coarse grit sandpaper, just enough to scratch<br />
    the mirror chrome, then evened out with the 800 grip and finished with scotchbrite.<br />
    <br />
    i personally dont think i was deep enough completely strip the protective finish
  • djpvtdjpvt Members  151WRX Points: 45Posts: 151 Fairways
    Joined:  #4
    looks great!
  • Judge440Judge440 Titleist will always have my heart. Cleveland, OH USAClubWRX  2149WRX Points: 163Handicap: 5Posts: 2,149 ClubWRX
    Joined:  #5
    Lookin' good.
    TM SIM Max 10.5* - GD AD-TP 6X
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    Honma T//World 747 V - KBS Tour $-Taper 130X
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    Byron Morgan DH89

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  • teeitlowteeitlow Members  925WRX Points: 1Posts: 925 Golden Tee
    Joined:  #6
    Looks good...Chrome dust, does not sound so hot.<br />

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