Choice of golf ball based on price?

The choice of the right golf ball is crucial as it is a critical piece of equipment and it definitely makes a difference what ball someone is playing.

Personally I want to play the best ball, the ball that fits my game best. Price is not a key factor for me precisely because the difference, the delta, the costs of opportunity are clearly less than $60 a year (3-4 dozen a year, $15 more a dozen for better balls) and when I take into consideration how much money I spend for golf equipment, green or tournament fees, apparel and so on those $60 are negligible – which is not a snobbish attitude but simply the truth.

My quesitons to you:

1. Is the price for golf ball a deciding key factor?

2. Do you go for a cheaper golf ball even if it is clearly less performing and doesn't fit your game as good as a more expensive one?

Being newer to the sport and, more importantly probably, fresh out of school with school loans; price is a factor, but I wouldn't call it the deciding factor.

I balance the decision making process somewhat by knowing what ball will perform better for the needs of my game (straighter off the tee vs spin around the green), and buying 5A used balls. For now it's a win-win; I feel confident in knowing that I'm playing a ball that benefits me, while giving my wallet a break at the same time.

A new box of top shelf balls is a treat I splurge on every now and then (usually to try experimenting with a better "players" ball to see if I'm there yet).

I buy good balls when they go on sale at the end of the year, I bought 4 dozen Lethals for $25 each around Christmas.

Brilliant post. I never thought to do the math based on a full year. I do play top end urethane balls, Hex Chrome, Pro V1X or Lethals and benefit from the green side performance, feel off the putter and over all predictability. All of those things are important to me, the ball is the only piece of equipment you use on every swing. I will pick up balls when they go on sale.

Based on losing one ball per round over 60 rounds that equals $100.00 total if the price difference is $20.00 per dozen. That is just one round of golf at a decent course, not even high end around here. Performance definitely out weighs the cost for me.

You can good quality balls at decent prices. For example, I don't thing there is that much difference between a 2013 model and a 2014 model. I picked up some Hex Chromes for $21 a dozen, along with some Z-Stars for $24 a dozen. Both good balls at a very tidy price.

[quote name='Gbyeball' timestamp='1392290698' post='8658249']
Brilliant post. I never thought to do the math based on a full year. I do play top end urethane balls, Hex Chrome, Pro V1X or Lethals and benefit from the green side performance, feel off the putter and over all predictability. All of those things are important to me, the ball is the only piece of equipment you use on every swing. I will pick up balls when they go on sale.

Based on losing one ball per round over 60 rounds that equals $100.00 total if the price difference is $20.00 per dozen. That is just one round of golf at a decent course, not even high end around here. Performance definitely out weighs the cost for me.
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Thank you, Gbyeball!

What you highlight is exactly the point, my point. And compared to all the other expenses the monetary difference of a cheaper-but-not-so-good and a more-expensive-but-perfectly-fitt ball is not that much.

I do not want to calculate how much I spend every year for golf-accessories or whatever related to golf that do not help me play better golf and therefore have more fun on the course. So I really can get over that let’s say $50-80 per year.

One thing’s for sure: the best ball for one’s game is not necessarily the most expensive. I know a HCP 1.2 who plays the Callaway Warbird for $15 a dozen. He tested a lot of the premium balls, went through more than one ball-fitting but sticks to that 2-piece ball. It suits his game best.

What you quote is also true for me: the performance of golf balls definitely outweighs the cost, especially if they are comparably low.

It's not a qualitative question. It's a matter of "how much".

If I could save a couple strokes a round by using a $4 golf ball (and if no cheaper ball would give similar results) then I'd probably do it. I only lose a ball per round or less on average so it's no big deal unless I go play some water hazard and wetlands choked resort course or something.

But there just isn't a couple strokes or a single stroke or even half a stroke per round difference between the most expensive balls and alternatives that cost half as much or less. So I don't play $4 golf balls.

In fact, for my game a basic 2-piece ball lets me shoot just about the same scores as a "Tour" ball with the only real difference being some occasional runout after landing on a firm green. So I use DT Solo X-Outs (about 90 cents per ball). If I had a short game that depends on lots of spin those cheapest balls wouldn't be an option but there are still $2 alternatives to the $4 brands of "Tour" ball that are either equivalent or so close to equivalent as to make no difference.

Anyone playing off a handicap who is convinced that a ProV1 lets him shoot lower scores than a Z-Star or 20XI or Chrome is engaging in wishful thinking. For elite players, maybe there's something in the differences among various brands. But for the guy shooting 74's or 82's or 95's with his buddies just pick on that's cheap and go with it. And if you don't want to play the low spinner short-game shots, even a $1.00 ball will get the job done.

I always play based on cost. As a mid hcp golfer the midlevel $20-25 balls more than do enough for my game. However, if I really want to get premium balls, I order from one of the many lost golf ball sites and get the premiums for the same price.

No price does not affect what ball I play. Mostly because I use leftover balls from the school year and the team plays the ball that I like (B330S). That is what I play 90% of my money games with and 100% of my tournament rounds are with this ball. I may have the occasional Pro V pop in when I get them in tournaments but that ball is only played when Im just playing a normal round.

I buy used AAAA-rated Pro-V1x's from Lost Golf Balls. Comes out to about $1 a ball. Cost stays down, and quality remains high.

Fortunately for me, the lower priced, two piece balls fit my game and needs. (Currently, Pinnacle Gold and Strata Jet) I've learned to play with those balls and know what to expect when they are on occasion struck well. High priced, (subjectively) high quality balls are not justified in my case.

Unfortunately for me, my home course is heavily populated with water hazards and inaccessible tight OBs. Balls that are found on the course are rarely of top quality. Evidently there are many others that share the pain of losing a sleeve of balls per nine holes. That can get cost to creep into just about anybody's mind.

1. Is the price for golf ball a deciding key factor?

for me 100% a key factor....the dumping of inventory every year for new offerings, logo or practice labeled golf balls or flash specials are where i look to clean up. there are deals all over the place just have to find 'em. i can't remember the last time i paid over $20 a dozen and the 2 for 1 deals work out even better

2. Do you go for a cheaper golf ball even if it is clearly less performing and doesn't fit your game as good as a more expensive one?

this i can't compromise on unless cheaper still gets me quality....otherwise the performance is priority BUT at the right price

Price is not the deciding factor in choosing a ball for myself, but it has some influence. I played fine with the NXT Tour for a while but a little research showed that there were better balls for my game at the same or lower price. I switched to the Gamer V2 and it perfomed much better, and then last season played a couple of mid-spin urethene balls (Gamer Tour and RBZ U) and had some great success around the games. So if the ProV1 was $10 and RBZ U was $30, I would buy the RBZ U.

And no I would not buy a ball that performs worse for me to save a few bucks - at my HCP I need any advantage I can get.

I haven't played urethane golf balls in years as I feel they offer little to no performance advantage for me personally. I guess by default that takes higher priced golf balls out of my purchasing decision.

I haven't paid more than $20 for a box of balls in quite some time having played the Gamer V2. I'm pretty sure i'll have no problem finding a ball that works well for me in the similar price range in the future. I also feel less inclined to spend five minutes looking for a ball when it cost $1 and change against $5 or more when I finally do shank it into the woods.

1. Is the price for [url="http://www.bizrate.com/golf-ball/index__af_assettype_id--4__af_creative_id--3__af_id--[AFF-ID]__af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html"][color="#353535"]golf ball[/color][/url] a deciding key factor? Yes, to a point.

On top of being terrible & making bad descisions on the course, I also can't see very well so I lose more balls than the average guy. With that said, I try to buy nice pre-owned balls whenever possible, usually something like Penta's/Lethals, 20Xis or RX-3300s. I can usually find them around here in the $10-$15 a dozen range and in mostly great shape.

2. Do you go for a cheaper golf ball even if it is clearly less performing and doesn't fit your game as good as a more expensive one?

No, I will always try to get nicer balls as cheap as possible, then if I have to I will pay the full price. I will play E6s or Q-Stars if buying new to keep the cost down, since a dozen will usually only last me 4-5 rounds anyway.

Yes, guilty. That's why I have a bunch of half used boxes laying around. The wife grabs them, she doesn't care. For her the choice of a ball is based on if its free.

I have said this for years, " a ball is a ball is a ball is a ball."

I have played sub par rounds using a Topflight XL5000. Shot even par with Lady precepts and some really fine scores with the low dollar sirxon balls.

I normally play Pro V1's or a Callaway 4 piece ball. Going to a multi-layered ball or playing a rock two piece, it is the loose nut on the end of the stick that is going to determine the out come of the shot.

Granted what you get it spin and stopping power will greatly vary. However, if you know where you are hitting the ball and the characteristics of the ball, you can adjust.

Does it do anything to me to play what I would deem a lesser ball? Not really, just as long as I am hitting it solid.

Now for the nut job that goes out and hits 8 out of 12 pro v's in the water. I would suggest, switching to the 2 DZ for $25 grouping of balls.

When I hit the shot that has "WOW, that shot did just what I wanted" running through my mind, the second thought is not about the ball itself. Usually, the second thought is "Do that all the time, dummy". Until I can have that first thought consistently in my head, I'll spend my money improving my game on the range and with lessons, not on a "tour" ball.

This time of year, I'll play the Wilson FIFTY ball, just because it feels better in 40*-ish temperatures. When it is warmer, it is the e6, NXT or Pinnacle Gold that gets money out of my pocket.

For me, before I jump the gun on buying a ball I do some analysis. See what the tour guys are playing, reading up on golf digest rankings on golf balls for that year which is a really good read and ultimately buying a sleeve to try for the next couple rounds. I've played many a golf balls from top of the line titliest, nike, callaway and bridgestones. For some odd reason I always revert back to the nike pd soft. It just fits my game. I get the distance I want, the feel off the green and more importantly the feel off my putter face. Its all trial and error in my opinion. To say one ball is ultimately the one does not match the many options that manufacturers and putting out there. The one ball I do stay away from are the overly soft balls just because I end up tearing the ball up pretty quick i.e the balata type balls from back in the past.

As a college student, price does factor in a little bit. I still will play the top end ball but I won't buy them brand new off of the shelf. Usually just buy the top ones from LGB, since they really come in great quality.

I play top end balls, but I always buy them on sale. I don't think I've paid more than $25 or so for a dozen ball in a long time.

[b]1. Is the price for golf ball a deciding key factor?[/b]

No.

[b]2. Do you go for a cheaper golf ball even if it is clearly less performing and doesn't fit your game as good as a more expensive one? [/b]

I don't believe this question is applicable. There are many options in all price ranges to suit 99% of all golfers out there without dramatically sacrificing features for price.

The ball, IMO, is low on the equipment priority for anyone not very capable of consistently and precisely manipulating shape, flight and spin to a fairly high degree. Probably less than 1% of golfers.

Price is a deciding factor for me. That being said, the ball I prefer went on sale and I was able to pick up a whole bunch for cheap. I feel that you can get a ball that will suit your needs at any price level. I never thought about your calculation though. It makes a compelling arguement to buy whatever balls suits your game no matter what price!

[quote name='GWD' timestamp='1392303022' post='8658965']
Fortunately for me, the lower priced, two piece balls fit my game and needs. (Currently, Pinnacle Gold and Strata Jet) I've learned to play with those balls and know what to expect when they are on occasion struck well. High priced, (subjectively) high quality balls are not justified in my case.

Unfortunately for me, my home course is heavily populated with water hazards and inaccessible tight OBs. Balls that are found on the course are rarely of top quality. Evidently there are many others that share the pain of losing a sleeve of balls per nine holes. That can get cost to creep into just about anybody's mind.
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My home course has water on 10 of the 18 holes and woods on almost every hole. I play with whatever my girlfriend finds in the ponds/beside the fairways.


Mostly the Pro v1s/B330s are beat up but find a few in great condition. Also find a good bit of bridgestone/callaway/titleist mid level balls in mint condition. But it's truly amazing how many mint condition top flite/pinnacles/noodles/slazengers/etc we have stockpiled.

I am surprised at how few taylormade balls she finds though considering I know how popular their woods and irons are. Weird how more people don't play their balls. Would think folks would be more brand loyal. I tend to want to play wilson staff balls now that I've got a set of fg tour v2s.

[quote name='Ballgofarboy' timestamp='1392317198' post='8660753']
I have said this for years, " a ball is a ball is a ball is a ball."

I have played sub par rounds using a Topflight XL5000. Shot even par with Lady precepts and some really fine scores with the low dollar sirxon balls.

I normally play Pro V1's or a Callaway 4 piece ball. Going to a multi-layered ball or playing a rock two piece, it is the loose nut on the end of the stick that is going to determine the out come of the shot.

Granted what you get it spin and stopping power will greatly vary. However, if you know where you are hitting the ball and the characteristics of the ball, you can adjust.

Does it do anything to me to play what I would deem a lesser ball? Not really, just as long as I am hitting it solid.
[/quote]

This is a great post. I often wonder if the average person is good enough to be playing a top of the line ball even though I know titleist markets the ball that it is good for everyone.

Being able to make your ball spin is great, when you know how far past a hole you'll put the ball and watch it back up. However, if your ball lands 30 feet short of the hole then backs up 10 feet. Was it worth it?

Or if you hit a pitch and the ball checks up 40 feet in in front of the hole. Was it really worth having that much spin on the ball?

Great perspective.

Playing the correct ball is still a mystery to me. The advertisements, compression, swing speeds, blah, blah, is very confusing.

With that said, I feel a twinge of guilt spending $48 for a dozen balls, especially if I lose a couple per round, but I still will spend whatever for the ball that fits my game best.

I've only been playing for a few months so I don't bother with the pricey balls. I won't spend more than $20/dozen at this point.

[quote name='backtees' timestamp='1392282053' post='8658111']
The choice of the right golf ball is crucial as it is a critical piece of equipment and it definitely makes a difference what ball someone is playing.

Personally I want to play the best ball, the ball that fits my game best. Price is not a key factor for me precisely because the difference, the delta, the costs of opportunity are clearly less than $60 a year (3-4 dozen a year, $15 more a dozen for better balls) and when I take into consideration how much money I spend for golf equipment, green or tournament fees, apparel and so on those $60 are negligible – which is not a snobbish attitude but simply the truth.

My quesitons to you:

1. Is the price for golf ball a deciding key factor?

2. Do you go for a cheaper golf ball even if it is clearly less performing and doesn't fit your game as good as a more expensive one?
[/quote]

Curious how many rounds of golf you get out of 3-4 dozen balls?

[quote name='RJRJRJ' timestamp='1392320283' post='8661213']
I play top end balls, but I always buy them on sale. I don't think I've paid more than $25 or so for a dozen ball in a long time.
[/quote]

same for me, i am the same way