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Putter Refinishing help!


lewis901

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need help refinishing!!!
hey all you guys and girls out there. maybe alot of you are lookin for the same answers i am but i really need help!! i bought a Scotty Cameron circa 62 number 2 a few years ago and it was the black oxide finish..lots of golf later it ruseted and i "coked" the black oxide and bluing off it...well i sent it in to get refinishied and an empty wallet later, my putter came back only to rust a few months later. something about a bake on finish that doesnt last long witht the refinishing studio... any who the finish is off again and im trying to find out how to finish the head to an oil can and i have dont the whole heat up the head and stick it in motor oil but it doesnt work.. like how long to i have to heat it up for? how long does it need to stay in the oil? i have tried many times and have not succeeded once... any help would be greatly appreciated@!!!!! :clapping:
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thanks for the reply..I am heating it up with a torch that i bought at home depot but i dont know how long to heat it..i have done all the prep work and stripped it to bare carbon steel and has no spots left.. all i need to know is how long to heat it and how long to leave it in the oil for, how many times do i repeat? i dont really care how dark it is i just want it to look nicer than a rusty piece of metal..

Thanks again

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It's just the nature of a gun blue finish--as came on your Circa both originally and from the Cameron custom shop--to rust if not properly taken care of.

 

I'd make it easiest on yourself: either send it to LaMont (golfluvzme) or George (geogolf) for a maintenance free plating, or buy a stainless steel putter.

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Unless the putter has some kind of nickel plating, it will tend to rust unless oil is rubbed on the putter after use, or between use on wet days. Many people use baby oil. Refinishing the putter in "oil can" will do nothing to prevent rust from appearing unless care is taken with this putter. Oil the putter after use. That is the only way to ward off rust.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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I used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown on the same putter. I heated it with a propane torch for about three to four minutes and then applied the finish with a clean wash cloth. I put four coats on it till I got the color I wanted. THe only problem is that the mill marks were covered and you can't see them. That does not bother me because the only reason I bought the putter was to keep me from changing putters so often. I am a school teacher that cannot afford to ho alot. As far as rust, I spray it with a silicone spray that you cn get from Home Depot and probably Lowe's as well after every use. I have had no problems with rust. If the greens are wet I just go to my backup putter.

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I want to try to refinish a putter. Im going to start from scratch first thing is what putter can i get to strip it down. I want to do the gun blue/black. Should i get an old ping putter. Any suggestions would help thanks

9* Taylor Made 2016 M1 430 Aldila Rogue MAX
[size=4]15* and 19* TaylorMade 2016 M1 [/size]Kuro Kage TiNi Silver 70
[size=4]19* Titleist 818 h2 Diamana D+ 90[/size]
[size=4]4-PW MP64 KBS C Taper
52*, 56*, 60* Cleveland 588 Tour Action DG S400[/size]
34" Scotty Cameron Seleect Newport M1 350g
34" Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 350g
[size=4]34" Scotty Cameron Studio Style 2.5 330g
34" Odyssey Works Versa V Line 350g[/size]

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I want to try to refinish a putter. Im going to start from scratch first thing is what putter can i get to strip it down. I want to do the gun blue/black. Should i get an old ping putter. Any suggestions would help thanks

 

If you're looking for a guinea pig putter to gain some experience, your best bet is to find something that's a bit battered and is made from some sort of carbon steel. Older Ping models are made from stainless steel and won't take a blued finish if you're looking to practice that process. I've heard conflicting reports over whether a manganese bronze putter will take a blueing treatment. The book says they shouldn't; but I've seen one that quite clearly had been blued - although whether it lasted for more than a week is something I don't know.

 

Older Camerons that people have trashed are pretty plentiful - although a lot get snapped up by people looking to get them restored if they're not utterly beyond repair, so you may have to look for a while to find one. The original Gun Blues, the Oil Cans and any of the early Studi Designs fit the bill. Pro Platinums and anything stainless don't. The Teryllium models are also blue-able but messing with the inlay isn't really recommended if you're a novice as it can be tough to get the finish looking tidy once you've hoiked it out and put it back in.

 

Blueing is pretty easy to do and something like a Birchwood Casey kit is all you need.

Nike Ignite 410 10.5° Grafalloy Blue X

Nike T60 15° Fujikura Speeder 757 X

Titleist 913F 19° Mitsubishi Diamana BB 83X or Titleist 712U 2-iron 19° KBS Tour S

Titleist 712U 3-iron 22° KBS Tour S

Titleist 681 4-iron to 9-iron KBS Tour S

Titleist SM5 48.08F Raw 49° KBS Tour S

Titleist SM5 56.10M Raw 56° KBS Tour S

Ping Eye 2 Gorge L Wedge 60° KBS Tour S  &  Ping Pal

 

 

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i also heard somewhere else that if u take a torch to stainless steel or something that is carbon steel and leave it there for a bit it begins to change colours? is this tru? i have a new ping answer karsten series and i was wondering if that would work or if it works on stainless steel because i have alot of project ones i can use and i want to know if the torch to stainless turns it into that oily colour as i have heard

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This putter's finish was applied by heating it for about 3-5 minutes with a torch that uses MAPP gas and then set in an old coffee can with 5w-30 in it.....I found that if you want reds oranges and ambers then the putter requires less heat.....If you want Blues and purples then the putter will require more heat....

 

 

 

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Okay so i have stripped all finishes again but i am having some trouble with my circa 62 #2 because there are 2 problems. the first is that there is alot of dings only 1 semi deep one. how do i get rid of it? and secondly is there is still some gun blue in the corners behind the face where it says cameron i cant reach with steel wool and it doesnt coke off...if i heat it long enough and apply plum brown or something will it stay on overtop?

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Hey Guys: this is an interesting topic. I would appreciate some advice when it comes to "refinishing" a TP Mills 3 (Mizuno) putter. I recently picked up this putter and it is in great shape, other than a "glare issue". When the angle of the sun is a certain way, the putter reflects the light so much that you cannot concentrate on the putt. Other than this, the putter does not need a complete refinishing as the face is perfect and there are no large nicks on the topline. I don't think that the TPM3 is a "collector's item", so I'd like to do a small refinishing job myself... and with limited skills in this area... do you think that I could simply spray a light coat of paint over the topline (maybe a gun metal color?) to reduce the glare issue? Any suggestions as to the type of paint to use? Any comments that you folks have would be greatly appreciated.

 

I have a couple of Scotty's on the go but I really like the feel of the TPM. Thanks!

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Hey Guys: this is an interesting topic. I would appreciate some advice when it comes to "refinishing" a TP Mills 3 (Mizuno) putter. I recently picked up this putter and it is in great shape, other than a "glare issue". When the angle of the sun is a certain way, the putter reflects the light so much that you cannot concentrate on the putt. Other than this, the putter does not need a complete refinishing as the face is perfect and there are no large nicks on the topline. I don't think that the TPM3 is a "collector's item", so I'd like to do a small refinishing job myself... and with limited skills in this area... do you think that I could simply spray a light coat of paint over the topline (maybe a gun metal color?) to reduce the glare issue? Any suggestions as to the type of paint to use? Any comments that you folks have would be greatly appreciated.

 

I have a couple of Scotty's on the go but I really like the feel of the TPM. Thanks!

 

First, good job picking up what I consider to be a real hidden gem of a putter. Those Mizuno TP Mills can be obtained for a song, and I think their value far exceeds their current price. I've owned Mills Professional series putters, and the Mizuno TP Mills feel (but, unfortunately, don't nearly look) just as good. They don't get nearly the respect they deserve, but that means extra savings!

 

As far as refinishes go, though, you probably won't have too many options unless it's a Mizuno "Workshop" model. The regular TPMs, which I assume you have, are nickel plated carbon steel, so they won't take a gun blue or other carbon-friendly finish unless you have the plating stripped.

 

I personally think painting a golf club is a bad idea; even if it looks good to begin with, it will start chipping and really look leperous soon after the refinish.

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An old metal worked I have corresponded with suggest the best oil heat treatment is to use an old solid base pan on an outdoor stove top. Coat the metal in used engine oil, place in pan and let it heat until smoking and it starts to cook off the oil, turn and recoat. Just keep repeating the process until you get a really baked on coating.

 

He swears by it and lives in a really humid area where bare metals rust very quickly.

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