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Fitting Tall Golfers With NO Chart or Preconceived Ideas!


rybo

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Have any of you guys tried cutting some length off the hosel of a wedge, as an additional way to lower the head weight?

 

Thought about doing that but was concerned about shortening the surface area for the epoxy bond. Probably could take off the 1/4" with no issues.

 

Anyone done this before? If so what was the before and after weights?

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Rybo, just wondering if you stayed at 37.75 with your wedges or have adjusted any more?

 

If I gave you my height, WTF and shoulder to floor(where do u measure from?) could you give me an idea of what my low club limit would be?

 

I've played this year with an moi matched set with 3/8th increments with some success(36" wedges). Is there a way to use these increments with your length system?

 

 

Thanks again!

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Rybo, just wondering if you stayed at 37.75 with your wedges or have adjusted any more?

 

If I gave you my height, WTF and shoulder to floor(where do u measure from?) could you give me an idea of what my low club limit would be?

 

I've played this year with an moi matched set with 3/8th increments with some success(36" wedges). Is there a way to use these increments with your length system?

 

 

Thanks again!

For the last few weeks I've been playing my wedges as follows:

 

Lob wedge is 37.5"

Sand wedge is 37.75"

Gap and PW are 38"

 

3/8" increments are fine; any increment is fine. The whole idea of this is to find the minimum length you require due to a tall persons higher shoulders and minimally longer arms and build the set from this longer starting point.

 

The best I would be able to recommend is based off of average body proportions which is based on height. While this is several times better for those of us over 6' 2' it's not nearly as accurate as the low limit length test. Provide height and WTF.

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I am 6'3'' and my WTF is 38.5 with my golf shoes on.

 

I have a spare wedge head and a 3 iron shaft i can dry fit to see how it feels tonight. :)

 

Your WTF is close to someone who is an average 6' 5", so your shortest wedge will be around 37.75".

 

Sweet! Ship me your wedge to try out.... ha ha I kid. :taunt:

 

Very interesting, no wonder people comment on "your clubs look to short!"... right after I thin one over the green on a 130 yrd Par 3 :)

 

Where do you measure for the shoulder height spec(inside arm pit, mid point on front side of shoulder?). Interested to see if that is in the same height range.

 

Also, interested if you noticed if you can take a "fuller" turn or a deeper hip turn with your new set up. After reading your comment on handing a 5'9'' fitter a wedge that's 4 inches too short. I couldn't help but picturing that it really wouldn't be possible to take a "full" swing with a club like that, there is just no way to keep your spine angle/head position while fully turning into you hip with a full shoulder turn. Maybe that's why most bigger/taller guys always struggle with grip pressure too, they have to make so many more manipulations just to get the club face on the ball that an avg person never has to accommodate for. Too many manipulations/tension with the hands = bad golf swing, pretty universal golf principle.

 

Sorry for the rambling, but this has all my tinkering wheels turning. Thanks again for all the info and help. Cheers!

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I have not come up with a repeatable way to measure shoulder height. The charts show to the joint so the best I've come up wth is measure under the arm pit, then to the top of the shoulder and use the average. But it's just not very repeatable. This is why I came up with using an uncut shaft in a 64* head. It accounts for all of an individuals body parts and posture at the same time.

 

As for a fuller turn that could mean a lot of things. It does feel like the back swing is more natural and easier for sure. There is less extra movement in the legs, again feels easier to make the swing. I've noticed on the follow through I do not pop up anymore. My body was so low/bent over at impact that it had no choice but to recoil to a more upright position to complete the follow through.

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Thanks for putting all this together. It is certainly interesting stuff. I am 6'4" with a WTF of 37.5" with my FootJoys, 38" with Brooks running shoes. I haven't gone through an iron fitting in some time but when I did I ended up with +.5" from Titleist standard. Which over the years I have determined is not nearly enough. I have heavy toe down divots and what you have been saying is kind of an epiphany. I have a couple questions if I may and I'm sorry if you answered these earlier in the thread. I went through it but not every post.

 

Are you able install the appropriate taper tip iron shaft for the head or are you having to soft step to get the additional length?

Have you or anyone else tried those Secret Grips that are counterbalanced to get a normal swing weight with all the additional length?

What length putter are you playing? I have always used 35' and never really felt comfortable with one. The only round I have ever played under par was with a belly putter at about 42".

 

Thanks for all your time and effort you have put into this and updating the thread.

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Not an expert, but if you are playing larger grips it could help offset the weight diff. Also, depending on your build/weight you may not have any issue with the added weight. I think Rybo went with aerotech shafts to offset the added length.

 

I have an older set i plan on playing around with this winter, so might try Some TT lite xl shafts. They are cheap and I use larger grips, plus I prefer heavier swing weights as is. If this test set really works well, I may invest in a graphite shaft option, but they are pricey! I will still keep an eye out for a winter deal though :) Plus I'm not sure if they make longer lengths, so messing with graphite shaft extensions (+2") kind of scares me in an iron.

 

As for the putter, I went to a 36" putter this year and it has been a real help(I'm 6.3). Still able to bend at the waist with a good natural arm hang, but can see the line much better. I went with more weight in the grip this year too and it has improved my distance control dramatically. I have found the sweetspot for me is 355g putter head, 36", and 128g grip (Winn 15", love the size of it. not too big, not too small.)

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Thanks for putting all this together. It is certainly interesting stuff. I am 6'4" with a WTF of 37.5" with my FootJoys, 38" with Brooks running shoes. I haven't gone through an iron fitting in some time but when I did I ended up with +.5" from Titleist standard. Which over the years I have determined is not nearly enough. I have heavy toe down divots and what you have been saying is kind of an epiphany.

Heavy toe down divots are one of the main indicators of being too short. More upright will only exasperate the problem. 6' 4" and a 38' WTF is a pretty 'standard' set of measurements for your height.

 

 

Are you able install the appropriate taper tip iron shaft for the head or are you having to soft step to get the additional length?

Fortunately I am able to use tapers with no issue. I am either right at the end of the shaft or only need to cut 1/4" or so off.

 

Have you or anyone else tried those Secret Grips that are counterbalanced to get a normal swing weight with all the additional length?

Have only been using 80g or so oversized grips.

 

What length putter are you playing? I have always used 35' and never really felt comfortable with one. The only round I have ever played under par was with a belly putter at about 42".

I have used everything from 34" to 39" standard form. Even used a long putter for about a year. Belly putters were always a no go for me. Currently using 35.75". Putting is what ever works for the individual. Spent a lot of time in the past trying to come with a better system for fitting putters to tall people, unfortunately the range of body positions people use when putting varies too much. If you feel it's uncomfortable it is.

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I tried a few different shaft weights that now has me rethinking some things.

 

Reassembled a 5, 8 & PW from a set of CG7 TC Comps that have DG X100's in them. Extended them to my lengths (38", 38.5" & 40") and installed oversized Lamkin Crosslines and while the overall weight is heavy they only swingweight around D7, and they are very playable. Definitely a bit more effort during the swing but nothing I would consider a show stopper. I think it would be possible to adapt to these with no issues. Ball flight was pretty high but quite straight. More of a point and shoot kind of set up. Wasn't expecting this outcome.

 

Also built up two wedges, 56* and 60*, with C Taper S+'s. Extended these to 38.25" and 38" which is longer then I have been using and used midsize grips on both. These heads are standard weights, 297g & 298g I believe. Swing weight is around E4, due to the lighter grips, additional length and no weight removed from the heads. These were incredibly accurate and controllable. Lost about 10 yards on full shots, that is an estimate as the wind was directly in the face today. Again they feel a touch heavy but these may go in the bag for the next round to see what happens on the course. Knock down and half shots were very good. May change the grips to oversized which will bring the swingweight down a bit more and fit my hands a bit better.

 

Thinking the Steelfibers in S are just too soft; which I stated early on. The X's are much better. The lower weight makes the club feel much lighter then what the swing weight reads, D7. Feels more like D1 but has a good balance. Overall weight is down the expected 30 or so grams.

 

Thinking of trying a DG SL, I have a 7 iron shaft, so time permitting this will happen.

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I have some PX 7.0's coming to start my experiment, just need to decide on heads. Tentative projected lengths until I try the low limit test are +2" over std Titleist/Vokey 9ir-lw lengths and 3/8" progression from 9ir up. This puts my 4ir length at 39 3/8". I'll be playing a hybrid for the first time (20*) and will probably make it 40 1/4" to 40 5/8". I'm hesitant on the hybrid length as I've always played std length woods and often consider going -1/2" on my driver and 3 wood. If it doesn't work I'll cut it down some.

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I installed PX 6.0 graphite shafts in my DPC40s years ago (still my gamers) and the stock shaft length was just over +2 inches so I only had to trim a very short section of each butt. Those shafts are tapered.

 

As far a adding extensions to graphite shafts I have had great success with steel extensions. Never had a structural failure and I've added up to 3 inches. Only did this for divers and fairways but not currently gaming them as I have returned to stock length.

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Great thread

Being 6'4" and a 37.5" wtf in bare feet

I play all my irons 1.5" overlength

 

I started with my old mans blades from the early seventies a dozen years ago . Standard length for their era

After 2 years I bought irons and was fitted to 1" overlength

The fitter said I'd need longer but the clubs would be unhittable

I took his word and played this length and after about 5 years of this I never felt ok over any shot

I played at a 10 hdcp

I bought new miuras and got fit properly

+1.5 steelfiber 110x flex , never felt so comfortable ever

Didn't have to have the end of the grip swallowed in my hands

I built my other miuras with Nippon 1150x same build

Irons have never been hard to hit and control

I have a good young fitter who doesn't buy into a standard fitting formula , he takes the time to get lies lifts launch etc correct for each individual

With the first proper fitting I dropped down to a 4 in about 3 months

For what it's worth all my iron sets (12) are built to the same specs and aw (d8)

Any lighter and I can't feel the head in my swing

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Not an expert, but if you are playing larger grips it could help offset the weight diff. Also, depending on your build/weight you may not have any issue with the added weight. I think Rybo went with aerotech shafts to offset the added length.

 

 

Be careful trying to go that direction. You don't really offset anything like a swingweight scale will tell you. The weight is still there. Your hands are not located where the fulcrum of the swingweight scale is, so you really don't get any kind of counterbalance like you may think. Your hands are at the end of the club, so you still have to move and control all that weight. If you need to go longer, the only way to really offset the length is to drop some weight, in the case of golf clubs, one of the best ways is through shaft weight. It removes heft weight but allows you to maintain the balance of the club.

 

Adding weight at the grip usually works a lot more for people that need to feel the added weight in their hands, but do not need the additional weight out past the hands to help them control the club.

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Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  (I heart you AD DI and will never sway from you again)
Qi10 Tour 3W with shaft TBD
Callaway UW 17* with shaft TBD

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid at 20* w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

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I tried a few different shaft weights that now has me rethinking some things.

 

Reassembled a 5, 8 & PW from a set of CG7 TC Comps that have DG X100's in them. Extended them to my lengths (38", 38.5" & 40") and installed oversized Lamkin Crosslines and while the overall weight is heavy they only swingweight around D7, and they are very playable. Definitely a bit more effort during the swing but nothing I would consider a show stopper. I think it would be possible to adapt to these with no issues. Ball flight was pretty high but quite straight. More of a point and shoot kind of set up. Wasn't expecting this outcome.

 

Also built up two wedges, 56* and 60*, with C Taper S+'s. Extended these to 38.25" and 38" which is longer then I have been using and used midsize grips on both. These heads are standard weights, 297g & 298g I believe. Swing weight is around E4, due to the lighter grips, additional length and no weight removed from the heads. These were incredibly accurate and controllable. Lost about 10 yards on full shots, that is an estimate as the wind was directly in the face today. Again they feel a touch heavy but these may go in the bag for the next round to see what happens on the course. Knock down and half shots were very good. May change the grips to oversized which will bring the swingweight down a bit more and fit my hands a bit better.

 

Thinking the Steelfibers in S are just too soft; which I stated early on. The X's are much better. The lower weight makes the club feel much lighter then what the swing weight reads, D7. Feels more like D1 but has a good balance. Overall weight is down the expected 30 or so grams.

 

Thinking of trying a DG SL, I have a 7 iron shaft, so time permitting this will happen.

 

 

Your last test is basically my set up. I was concerned about the SW going in, but it quickly became an after thought. Being comfortable over the ball, thru the swing, having the the right flex, all way more important IMO.

 

Most who need these kind of builds are most likely going to be bigger guys who may not even notice the sw difference and may even welcome it.

 

 

 

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I went with Paderson x-stiffs at 88 gms (see sig) in the irons and they seem about right for weight and flex at about 1.5-1.75" over Titleist MB standard length.

 

With driver, I am playing with a few shafts in the 50-something weight class in X and Stiff (tipped 1"). Thus far, the Fujkura EII 569 in stiff (tipped 1") and playing at 46.75 inches is winning out. Tried a Jumbomax small (95 gm) on the driver for first time this morning and it swings much better - played just 9 holes this morning and hit 7/7 fairways and could draw or fade the ball no problem.

 

Going to try Jumbomax smalls on all clubs - excited about that - driver feels great. Tried Jumbomax Mediums about 5 years ago and played fine, but, the grips filled my hands too much and it just felt off (plus the clubs were standard length so they felt really head light), so, I went back to standard and mid-size grips. The Jumbomax, size small, feel nice and usable and the counterweight they offer seems to help (on the driver at least).

 
  • Callaway Epic Max LS 10.5; Mitsubishi Diamana TB 60 S; 45.5”
  • Taylormade SIM Max 3w and 5w; Mitsubishi Diamana BF 70 S; 43.25” & 42.25”
  • Mizuno '21 CLK 19, 22 & 25; Fujikura Speeder EVO 75 HB Graphite S; Std L/L/L; sub for 5w, 4i & 5i
  • PXG 0311 P GEN3 PW-4i; Aerotech Steelfiber i95 stiff ; Std L/+0.75"/2 up
  • Vokey SM9 50F8 & 54S10 and SM8 58M8; Mitsubishi MMT 105 S in 50 & KBS 610 Wedge R+ in 54 & 58; Std L/+0.75"/1 up
  • Odyssey White Hot OG #1 Stroke Lab Putter; 35/74; stock Odyssey grip
  • JumboMax JMX UltraLite small on all clubs except putter
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I tried shafting a set of staff tour blades with the dg sl in x flex

I played one round and pulled them

Ball flight was really high and I couldn't control the

Distance on full swings.

I play weak lofts on all my sets pw @50* and 4* gaps

Down to the 2 iron

I didn't try hard stepping or tipping them

Just new uncut shafts

Be interested if you try this out and see your findings

 

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For those who keep questioning if 3/8" gaps (or other gaps for that matter) will work as the club gets longer I will share this.

 

When I built the first extended set from the low and high limit tests, the lengths were built strictly off of these results to see how playable they would or would not be. Didn't realize until now just how close to 3/8" build it was.

 

Had a 38" low length and a 40.5" high length.

 

Gapped as follows:

 

4 40.5"

5 40"

6 39.5"

7 39"

8 38.5"

9 38.25"

P 38"

 

 

Comparing this to a 3/8" build starting with the shortest club the following gaps would have occurred:

The lengths in parenthesis are the differences from the build above)

 

4 40.25" (-.25")

5 39.875" (-.125")

6 39.5" (0")

7 39.125" (+.125")

8 38.75" (+.250")

9 38.375" (+.125")

P 38" (0")

 

This is so close to a 3/8" build that it's unlikely there would be any noticeable difference in performance. What I find interesting is the low and high length tests compressed the overall lengths to almost to a 3/8" gapping. I actually have slightly shorter short irons and slightly longer long irons and the 6 & PW are exactly the same.

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Rybo:

 

Thank you VERY much for doing this. I have always felt the same way with my clubs. Basically the longer clubs don't need to be too much longer but the short irons always feel like I am hunched over or not in a true athletic position. I am 6'-5" with a WTF of 40". I would love to experiment with this and am in the process of building another set of irons. Can you give me a ball park of where to start based off your findings? Thanks and look forward to a great conversation in and learning in this post.

 

Steve

 

While your WTF is more in proportion to someone who is 6' 7" using the method explained above to determine your lower length limit with the 64* lie angle is going to be of the utmost importance and you may have other body parts that make up some of the difference from your higher than normal WTF. I am a bit reluctant to advise a length since you fall pretty far outside the boundaries for your height and wtf. This is exactly why doing the low length limit fitting will be so important for you.

 

I was shocked to find I was a completely average 6' 4" individual when I had always assumed due to the fitting charts that I had short arms.

 

Interesting topic. I am a little over 6'4", call it 6'5" in my shoes and I have a 39.5" WTF measurement (bottom side of my knobby wrist bone). What would you suggest on starting length with my SW/GW? I saw you other post on SL irons and I switched over to those this year, playing them at 37" (to top of grip). I love the 9, pw, gw, sw, as I have seen my HC drop like a rock, but honestly, the 8, 7, 6 irons feel a little short. I am thinking about going to 37.5" or 38" across the board. I am curious based on your chart what you think a starting point would be..

 

Also regarding a driver, I play a 44.5" driver, mostly because when I got fitted my center of club face stakes improved over the 45.5" driver and we settled at 44.5" as we worked our way down. I hit is mostly straight (sometimes a baby draw), but mostly with a power fade. Unfortunately my miss every once in awhile is that weak fade. Now you have me thinking again of going to or over 46"!

Driver - Cobra Speedzone

Hybrids

      Cobra 17
      Wishon 775 21

      Wishon 775 24 
Irons - Callaway Apex MB 6-A
Wedges - Maltby 54 60 TSW DRM
Putters - L.A.B Blad.1 and L.A.B. DF 2.1 Long
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Great topic. A lot of this I've thought about since I started playing. I'm an athletic 6'5" with a 39" WTF, and have always struggled with toe hits on the short irons and wedges, to the point that my 58* has a grass stain off the grooves.

I also mentally set up much closer to an iron with an upright lie angle. I'm subconsciously trying to match the upright lie angle, which I've been incorrectly fit for in the past. One fitting was only +0.5" long, but 4* up, imagine that with my build.

My thought process on this, was always that if you have a picture of a golfer, then increase the size by any proportional amount, the lie angle doesn't change, only the length of the shaft. So if length is fit to an athletic posture, none of us should be playing anything much over 1* or 2* over standard lie at most.

Only an average height person without a frame of reference could think that a very upright lie angle is a good answer to get a tall player into a close to standard length club set.

Regards,

Jared

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I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?

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I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?

 

A good reference is usually 1 CPM to 1 SW point...either up or down. Much of what you ask is all going to depend on the head weight at the extended length. You also really need a point of reference to work from to say whether it's too soft or too stiff. Playing a head weight at 38" for instance, but extending it out an inch while maintaining the head weight, would essentially make it play about 6 CPM+- softer in comparison. However, if you are to reduce the head weight, you can basically say it would play roughly same(small changes to be possibly expected depending on how the shaft is designed and the longer beam length of the shaft).

 

There again, you kind of need a starting point to know where you want/need to be in order to get back to that point at the extra length.

2024 Building In-progress

Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  (I heart you AD DI and will never sway from you again)
Qi10 Tour 3W with shaft TBD
Callaway UW 17* with shaft TBD

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid at 20* w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Srixon ZX7s w/ DG AMT White S300s
MG2 TW Grind 56/60 at 54/58
Spider Tour X3

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I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?

 

A good reference is usually 1 CPM to 1 SW point...either up or down. Much of what you ask is all going to depend on the head weight at the extended length. You also really need a point of reference to work from to say whether it's too soft or too stiff. Playing a head weight at 38" for instance, but extending it out an inch while maintaining the head weight, would essentially make it play about 6 CPM+- softer in comparison. However, if you are to reduce the head weight, you can basically say it would play roughly same(small changes to be possibly expected depending on how the shaft is designed and the longer beam length of the shaft).

 

There again, you kind of need a starting point to know where you want/need to be in order to get back to that point at the extra length.

 

Thanks Golfrnut...So your first sentence regarding 1 CPM/SW point is for every 1/2" of extra length correct? That is what I have read in the past....

Ping G425 10.5
Ping G25 15/18
Srixon ZX7 4-PW
Vokey SM6 Raw 50,54,58
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I do have a question regarding flex. I have pretty standard SS at 46 yrs old. 100-105 in the driver and probably 85 or so on the mid irons. I usually stick with the stiff flex shafts. If going +1.5-2" over will this essentially reduce the stiff flex shafts to regular or not quite that much. Just wondering if I am going to need to start with an X flex or soft stepped X in order to get the longer shafts to play true to stiff flex?

 

A good reference is usually 1 CPM to 1 SW point...either up or down. Much of what you ask is all going to depend on the head weight at the extended length. You also really need a point of reference to work from to say whether it's too soft or too stiff. Playing a head weight at 38" for instance, but extending it out an inch while maintaining the head weight, would essentially make it play about 6 CPM+- softer in comparison. However, if you are to reduce the head weight, you can basically say it would play roughly same(small changes to be possibly expected depending on how the shaft is designed and the longer beam length of the shaft).

 

There again, you kind of need a starting point to know where you want/need to be in order to get back to that point at the extra length.

 

Thanks Golfrnut...So your first sentence regarding 1 CPM/SW point is for every 1/2" of extra length correct? That is what I have read in the past....

 

3 SW points per half inch...

2024 Building In-progress

Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  (I heart you AD DI and will never sway from you again)
Qi10 Tour 3W with shaft TBD
Callaway UW 17* with shaft TBD

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid at 20* w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Srixon ZX7s w/ DG AMT White S300s
MG2 TW Grind 56/60 at 54/58
Spider Tour X3

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Interesting topic. I am a little over 6'4", call it 6'5" in my shoes and I have a 39.5" WTF measurement (bottom side of my knobby wrist bone). What would you suggest on starting length with my SW/GW? I saw you other post on SL irons and I switched over to those this year, playing them at 37" (to top of grip). I love the 9, pw, gw, sw, as I have seen my HC drop like a rock, but honestly, the 8, 7, 6 irons feel a little short. I am thinking about going to 37.5" or 38" across the board. I am curious based on your chart what you think a starting point would be..

 

Also regarding a driver, I play a 44.5" driver, mostly because when I got fitted my center of club face stakes improved over the 45.5" driver and we settled at 44.5" as we worked our way down. I hit is mostly straight (sometimes a baby draw), but mostly with a power fade. Unfortunately my miss every once in awhile is that weak fade. Now you have me thinking again of going to or over 46"!

 

Ken,

 

The length measurement for someone who is an average 6' 5" is as follows:

 

Average shoulder height = 62.48"

 

Average arm length to grip = 27.210"

 

Shoulder - arm = 35.27" (basically WTF with added hand length)(traditional WTF = 38.91")

 

 

Shoulder height to ground @ 64* = 69.516"

 

Shoulder to ground @ 64* (69.516")- WTF (35.27") = 34.246"

 

 

 

34.246" hand height requires a a club with a length of 38.102" to reach that hand height. This is just a starting point for length only. You may likely need a 1* or 2* more upright club once you check lie angle due to the dynamic move of the swing.

 

 

As for the driver, I'm not at all surprised a 44.5" driver is producing fades for someone your height. It's pretty much guarenteed. The only thing you need to concern yourself with is getting the head in the correct square orientation at impact. And it will take a longer club to do so directly due to your height.

 

If you are wishing to stay with single length I'd say 38" is probably a good start. 38.5" may be better. I found the long irons were just too short in the single length build.

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      General Albums
       
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Monday #1
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Monday #2
      2024 Texas Children's Houston Open - Tuesday #1
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      Pullout Albums
       
      Tom Hoge's custom Cameron - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
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      • 7 replies
    • 2024 Valspar Championship WITB Photos (Thanks to bvmagic)- Discussion & Links to Photos
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      • 31 replies
    • 2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
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      General Albums
       
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #1
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #2
      2024 Arnold Palmer Invitational - Monday #3
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
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      Pullout Albums
       
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      • 15 replies
    • 2024 Cognizant Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
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      General Albums
       
      2024 Cognizant Classic - Monday #1
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      New Super Stoke Pistol Lock 1.0 & 2.0 grips - 2024 Cognizant Classic
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      • 2 replies
    • 2024 Genesis Invitational - Discussion and Links to Photos
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      2024 Genesis Invitational - Monday #1
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      Pullout Albums
       
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      • 22 replies

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