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Spine and FLO shaft


Pitchswag

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Hi GolfWRX Tech Forum,

 

I just read an article in a magazine, where they are telling how important it is that the shaft is correctly spined and FLO'ed (Flat Line Oscillation) and even DG and PX shafts can be wrong, so therefore they (in the article) recommended that you had it done no matter which shaft you are playing.

 

But when you look at every Pro's WITB pictures and so on you always see the shaft labels pointing down. And all the sets I have ordered in my time, the shaft labels are also pointing in the same direction.

 

Does that mean, that even the Pro's don't get there shafts spined aligned and FLO'ed? Or do they do it in the Tour Van before they are sticking labels on the shafts?

 

Thanks,

Jeriko

Proud member of Method EU * 421 ilvl Rogue (Outlaw/Assa) * 419 ilvl Demon Hunter (Havoc) * 418 ilvl Hunter (BM)

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It's a very controversial and touchy subject - even here (or maybe I should say 'especially here'). For everyone you find that says "it must be done", you'll find someone else who says it's a waste of time - particularly for amateurs or newer shafts. Lots of supposition, very little real and useful data to back up any of the claims. And even those who do believe in it can't come to any agreement on how to aline the spine when you do find it.

 

So basically the views of the author are not universally accepted in the industry.

 

From what I've heard, no it's generally not done (by the tour van's at least) before the labels are put on. Some people believe there may be cases where the shaft manufacturers might check for a spine before adding the labels/graphics but I personally haven't seen any official or reliable reports to confirm that.

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Thanks for answering this post, Stuart G. It all makes sense, and I am pretty happy about your explanation. I will let the topic be for now, and forget the spine and FLO thing, since I am on the skeptical side and don't think all the work will be worth it.

 

Again thanks for your time!

 

/Jeriko

Proud member of Method EU * 421 ilvl Rogue (Outlaw/Assa) * 419 ilvl Demon Hunter (Havoc) * 418 ilvl Hunter (BM)

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As far as our graphite and DG TI, AMT and PX LZ, those are all heat transfer decals requiring a large machine for application that wouldn't fit in a tour van, the get to tour with the labels on them.

 

We do not do any "shaft alignment" techniques before logo application on these.

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WITB

Driver-Titleist TSr3 9* w/ HZRDUS Green 60TX (HULK)

3 Wood-Titleist TSi2 15* w/ ACCRA TZFive 70 M5 (Masters Edition)

Irons-Taylormade P7MC 3-PW w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100

Wedges-Titleist Vokey 56.12D &60.12D w/ Dynamic Gold Mid S400

Putter-Scotty Cameron Mil-Spec Newport 2 w/ Steelfiber i125p

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Stuart is right, the subject is controversial and debates about it often gets way to hot....

 

As a clubmaker i used CPM and FLO testing to get to know actual flex and to see if the shaft at hand was "identical" with the one used during fitting. Graphite shafts might vary on flex strength more than we like them to, but most players was never fitted to the shaft they buy, so it makes no sense to pay extra to figure out if the shaft is within the norm, or if its stronger or softer, their purchase is a shot in the dark anyway.

 

For a clubmaker this is simply a quality control, and even shafts a bit outside the norm is still good, because we will always meet the need for a player where the standard specs was not really "dead on", but we wanted it to be a tad softer or stronger, and tip trimming is not always the way to go for graphite in flex matters since they dont respond like steel shaft does. (tip length is important, and they dont respond much as CPM before we have changed the profile and thats no good)

 

When the shaft thats fits the fitting specs is found, it will be installed with the FLO line that fits the fitting specs, and it would at least not hurt anything, and we are then sure of what flex it really was, compared to the shaft used during fitting, so its only a quality control of specs.

 

Most shafts has 2 good Flo lines and they are about 90 apart of each other, and they will both "be in play" during the swing since we open the face about 90 during the back swing and load the shaft on that FLO line, the same line who is toe drop during impact, while shaft bending forward is the the other FLO line aligned at target. Thats the idea behind, but if and how much and for who it matters....better and very sensitive players, so i always saw this as a quality control i made on all shafts and installed them according to FLEX targets measured on this lines.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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As far as our graphite and DG TI, AMT and PX LZ, those are all heat transfer decals requiring a large machine for application that wouldn't fit in a tour van, the get to tour with the labels on them.

 

We do not do any "shaft alignment" techniques before logo application on these.

 

Thanks for your contribution to this subject. So you guys from TT doesn't see the spine of the shaft alignment as a "MUST do" before installing the shafts properly?

Proud member of Method EU * 421 ilvl Rogue (Outlaw/Assa) * 419 ilvl Demon Hunter (Havoc) * 418 ilvl Hunter (BM)

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I recently upgraded my driver and had them true the shaft. Cost me I think 15 dollars extra. That driver I hit easier and more consistently than the drivers I had been using previously. More distance as well. I am very happy with the results. HOWEVER, I changed to a 12* loft(because I finally found a driver head with that loft in a square face angle) and the Pro Launch Red shaft. I don't believe the trued shaft contributed anything to my success and I will never do this again. To me, just a sales gimmick.

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I'm of the camp that believes that the little bit of extra effort will reduce some of the variation that lives in every shaft. If I get to chose a shaft that oscillates on plane verses a shaft that goes sideways within a cycle - I pick the shaft that has been tuned to the build every time.

 

It just seems to me that the right way to build clubs is to reduce every bit of variation you can to help drive consistency into the set. I would not build a club or a set without first optimising the shafts.

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i've used a spine finder myself when most drivers were not adjustable. now with so many drivers being adjustable, each time you change the orientation it would change how the flo/spine would be anyway, correct? i would believe shafts available now are more predictable with tighter tolerences than in the past anyway. make sense?

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i've used a spine finder myself when most drivers were not adjustable. now with so many drivers being adjustable, each time you change the orientation it would change how the flo/spine would be anyway, correct? i would believe shafts available now are more predictable with tighter tolerences than in the past anyway. make sense?

 

Look at how much the shaft is turned for each setting, if its 90*, you will most likely be on the other good FLO line.

 

We might like to think that shaft has "tight tolerances" but thats not true, they vary, so if you was fitted to the actual shaft, you need those spec to duplicate, but how many who was fitted has the actual specs on the shaft used for fitting? most places who do fittings dont even know specs themselves and then you are in the dark anyway. The same with loft, its hardly ever whats stated, because like with irons, they comes out of the factory with a tolerance +/- up to 2*

 

Many players who test a club and found it good, wants to keep THAT club, because they know that the "identical club" dont exist unless we have ALL ACTUAL specs, so they dont want a "new", they want the one they have in their hand.

 

Spine finders is mostly useless since they might return your a flat side, a heavy side, or the weak side, you never know without a CPM reader and FLO test.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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I'm of the camp that believes that the little bit of extra effort will reduce some of the variation that lives in every shaft. If I get to chose a shaft that oscillates on plane verses a shaft that goes sideways within a cycle - I pick the shaft that has been tuned to the build every time.

 

Maybe you didn't say that they way you meant it but all shafts are going to be a bit asymettric in how they behave. So you are not really choosing a shaft that oscillates on plane vs one that doesn't. You are really just trying to align that behavior somehow with the swing in the hopes of getting a bit more consistency.

 

I certainly fully accept that such asymmetry exists in the shafts (some more than others) and that the frequency from the weak and strong plans can be different. I also will fully admit there are a lot of unanswered questions with respect to the topic so don't even pretend to know what's right or what isn't. But just some food for thought:

 

When we FLO a shaft, we look at the behavior of the shaft over numerous cycles in order to find the two more stable planes. However, during the swing, the loading and unloading that occurs is just 1/2 of a cycle. Even for a poor alignment, how much variation actually occurs in that 1/2 cycle?

 

FLO is looking at and evaluating the unforced (natural) response of the shaft. Yet in the swing, forces are constantly being applied throughout the swing. Basic dynamics tells us that unforced and forced responses can be completely different. We can see this easily be comparing the natural frequency (say 200-300 cpm) to the 'frequency' of the swing cycle - which is only roughly about ~50 cpm.

 

When we swing the club, while for an ideal swing, the shaft might seem to stay in a single or common plane, from the perspective of the shaft axis, the loading and unloading of the shaft does not occur on a single plane. It actually typically covers a range that's full 270 degrees. Here is a graph of that deflection (measured) during the swing (grabbed from Tutelman's site). Note this is the graph for one professional player (Peter Jacobson). Variations can certainly occur for different swings but the range of how much the bend axis changes will likely be similar for all players.

 

 

 

So, given this, which axis really benefits from being more stable than any other?

 

Or similarly, with respect to managing the frequency of the shaft, which axis contributes more to what we feel for the stiffness?

 

So far, I haven't seen much from anyone do indicate anyone really knows the answers to any of those questions. Lots of guesses, but no real validated reasoning.

 

However, the corollary of not knowing what's the best way to use the info - is that there is also no clear 'wrong' way either. So other than maybe the time or cost to do it, there is no clear downside to going ahead and picking whatever alignment you think might be best.

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I like to flo my shafts as well. It really doesn't take that long to do, five minutes. I have not bothered with orienting the spine lately. I do have a shaft bearing machine for spining. If I get back to spining, I will get a dial gauge to measure true deflection under load.

Bag is in overhaul mode

Clubs identify as hacker set

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now adays, better shaft companies know all about the asymmetry issues and take steps in the mfg process before the shaft is sent for finishing. Shaft orientation in terms of shaft performance is really only important for players with a high swing speed and a late release.

 

Hope this helps

M60

 

According to whom?

 

The shaft companies.......LOL

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I like to flo my shafts as well. It really doesn't take that long to do, five minutes. I have not bothered with orienting the spine lately. I do have a shaft bearing machine for spining. If I get back to spining, I will get a dial gauge to measure true deflection under load.

 

IF you've made the decision to do it, might as well do it right. Don't waste your time with the bearing spine finder, they can't be trusted. If you're going to do it, stick to using FLO. To find the spine, all you need is to be able to measure the frequency of the two FLO planes of the shaft to determine which is the spine and which is the NBP.

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now adays, better shaft companies know all about the asymmetry issues and take steps in the mfg process before the shaft is sent for finishing. Shaft orientation in terms of shaft performance is really only important for players with a high swing speed and a late release.

 

Hope this helps

M60

 

According to whom?

 

The shaft companies.......LOL

 

There's not a legitimate shaft manufacturer on earth, who agrees that "shaft orientation" is important to anyone.

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now adays, better shaft companies know all about the asymmetry issues and take steps in the mfg process before the shaft is sent for finishing. Shaft orientation in terms of shaft performance is really only important for players with a high swing speed and a late release.

 

Hope this helps

M60

 

According to whom?

 

The shaft companies.......LOL

 

There's not a legitimate shaft manufacturer on earth, who agrees that "shaft orientation" is important to anyone.

 

According to whom?

[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUz5cMht6OE"]I like to tee the ball up.. using man sized clubs.[/url]

[quote name='MonteScheinblum' timestamp='1496985379' post='15667418']
[quote name='mothman65' timestamp='1496984980' post='15667404']
Is Melbourne getting any closer to happening Momte?
[/quote]

Still need some more, but it's pretty likely I'll come. Just don't know when yet.
[/quote]

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now adays, better shaft companies know all about the asymmetry issues and take steps in the mfg process before the shaft is sent for finishing. Shaft orientation in terms of shaft performance is really only important for players with a high swing speed and a late release.

 

Hope this helps

M60

 

According to whom?

 

The shaft companies.......LOL

 

There's not a legitimate shaft manufacturer on earth, who agrees that "shaft orientation" is important to anyone.

 

According to whom?

 

 

Call them and ask:

 

 

True Temper 800-355-8783

 

KBS 480-270-2202

 

Aldila 858-513-1801

 

Mitsubishi 760-929-0001

 

AeroTech 360-312-5622

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It can't hurt to have your shafts FLO'd, but personally I wouldn't pay for it. With today's high quality shafts and too many other variables (like my swing) that affect ball-flight more than slight inconsistencies in shaft profiles, I just don't see the benefit.

Driver- Cally Mavrik SZ 9*, Fujikura Ventus Black, S
3wd- Cally Flash SZ, UST ATTAS Elements, S
Hybrids- Cally Flash 18* & Apex Pro 24* Matrix HM3 95 Black Tie, S
Irons- TM 790 4-6,  TM 760 6-PW,  Steelfiber i95, S
GW- TM  770, Modus 105 S
SW/LW- Cally MD3, Modus 105 S
Putter- Cameron Futura

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I guess we could stay positive on this, right? Those of us who have tried it can see the difference. I have 4 shafts for my M2, and the one I floed is amazing. I haven't had a chance to try the other one I floed, Why not. Why would the shaft companies say it would help, there shafts are perfect? I use a 214 gram weight on the tip.

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Bag is in overhaul mode

Clubs identify as hacker set

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Several years ago while going through a fitting I wrote to several shaft companies after being told their shafts needed to be spined and flo'd. They said, while it wouldn't hurt the shaft and at one time was beneficial, the manufacturing tolerances now are such that it isn't of benefit, except for the psychological benefits.

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Pretty sure platgof can notice a difference in performance of his driver, and pretty sure whether his handicap goes up or down for any of a few dozen reasons has nothing to do with his credibility about his own experience with the performance of his driver.

 

And I don't think dredging up old handicap numbers is a road needed to be traveled - not always ends well.

 

Oh boy.

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In the last 20yrs I have had shafts spined with a bearing finder, flo'd on a freq meter and a couple Puured. Graphite and steel, woods and irons. None of it has made any performance difference that I could see or feel. None. I don't bother anymore.

Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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Several years ago while going through a fitting I wrote to several shaft companies after being told their shafts needed to be spined and flo'd. They said, while it wouldn't hurt the shaft and at one time was beneficial, the manufacturing tolerances now are such that it isn't of benefit, except for the psychological benefits.

 

My personal experience is I got talked into it many years ago, and have no clue whether it made any difference since I didn't have a "control". But, based on what I've read here (including your information which I trust) I haven't had it done the last few sets. Interestingly, it was a smaller fitting specialist business that pushed it. Never had anyone else bring it up to me, and a fitter I used last summer who has a solo shop swears you can show results on paper but not on the course, he just kind of smiled when I asked his opinion in conversation, he doesn't do it, but he's not certified to do it. Good enough for me, but that's the sum total of my experience.

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BrianL99 comes into every one of these threads and bashes spinning floing and pureing but he never provides any information showing the negative effects of it. I would never expect an OEM to admit a flaw. Nor should you.

 

Brian and I never agree...however...we're in the same place on this one. Here is the email referenced a few posts earlier...

 

Dear XXXX...

 

I would never discourage a player from having shafts pured/spined, at the very least it will never have a negative effect on performance and can have a positive psychological effect on some players. A majority of PGA and Champions Tour players using our shaft (same shaft, we have no special tour issue version) have them installed without this process. The SteelFiber is extremely uniform and consistent which is a result of the design profile achieved through filament winding (vs sheet wrapping with overlap) which is a seamless construction. And due to the perimeter weighted nature of the shaft (greater density/weight in the outer wall due to the steel fiber) the MOI has been increased to further stabilize the tip at impact. With that being said, it is a great service of top club fitters to provide this service.

 

 

All the best, CJ

 

Chris T Jorgensen

Director, Club Fitting Services

Aerotech Golf .LLC

1971 Midway Lane, Suite J

Bellingham, WA 98226

TF: 888.733.8988

PH: 360.312.5522

FX: 360.312.5524

www.aerotechgolfshafts.com

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I just got back into floing again after I dropped it for awhile. I quit for a time after listening to experts like Brian. Now I am moving forward and using it again. I would like to add that the longer the club is in length, the more the benefit of floing the shaft, because the action is more pronounced at longer lengths. I would also add that the heavier the tip weight is, the easier it is to locate this position.

Bag is in overhaul mode

Clubs identify as hacker set

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