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SLDR Anonymous Meeting


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I've tried to give the driver numerous chances but it just didn't fit me.

2 shafts 2 heads moving the weight etc.

I hit some absolutely dumb drives with it. like 10+ yards past areas I've rarely ever seen on my home course... and those few drives were not enough to beat out the forgiveness of the G25.

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[quote name='Mcgeeno' timestamp='1437634992' post='12004600']
I've tried to give the driver numerous chances but it just didn't fit me.

2 shafts 2 heads moving the weight etc.

I hit some absolutely dumb drives with it. like 10+ yards past areas I've rarely ever seen on my home course... and those few drives were not enough to beat out the forgiveness of the G25.
[/quote]

Same here, I've had two as well, one retail and the other a tour issue head and just didn't work for me and I have a couple buddies who still use it.

Ping G400 LST 8.5* w/ Tensei Pro White 70 TX
TM '17 M2 15* w/ Kurokage Dual Core 80 TX
TM P790 UDI 2 w/ KBS Tour 130x
Titleist 718 CB w/ KBS $ Taper 130x
Fourteen Raw RM 22 50, 54, 58 w/ KBS 610 Tour Black Nickel
Scotty Cameron Circle T Futura 6M[/b][/color][/font][/size][/font][/size]

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  • 1 year later...

Old thread, but I need the intervention. Hi, my name is Tucsonsean, and my wife gave me a SLDR 460 for Xmas two years ago. (We play a lot together, so naturally, I have to use it.) I've had the same experience as the OP: the SLDR has hit some of my longest drives, and some of my most crooked ones as well. Rock bottom was this past weekend in my club's latest Nassau. Three times I outdrove the others in my foursome (and I'm not a long hitter). But only six of fourteen drives were in play; two were OB left and six were unplayable or in hazards. I had a fitting when I first got the club, and I've been to the range countless times trying every setting, set-up, and tee height imaginable. I read the other thread ("what's wrong with the SLDR") as Bobcat suggested, and I appreciate all the suggestions for fixing the SLDR. I guess my point is that, if you spend $300+ for a club, you shouldn't have to resort to homemade re-engineering to get it to perform adequately. I'm probably going to buy my wife some flowers and trade the SLDR in while PGA will still offer $49 for it. You can say it's my swing, not the club, but the SLDR is a bad club for most recreational golfers, and TM should be ashamed for the ad campaign with which they promoted it. Thanks for listening.

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Hi Everyone.

 

My name is Jim. And I used to love the SLDR.

 

It started with some long drives. Some consistency. Some fun on the range and even during rounds. Sure, there was the occasional lost shot but I'm not a pro afterall so it was easy to understand how a shot could go so astray.

 

I invested in a shaft I have used in other drivers. And it helped. For awhile.

 

I invested in a grip that I really love to really make it "feel right". And it helped. For awhile.

 

I spent hours on the range. Dialing it in. Tweaking it. Really going after the ball.

 

And then it happened. The past two weekends I played in my two leagues. And in both cases my driver was WAY off. I am not talking about here and there. I am talking about hitting only 2 fairways off. I am talking about OB-off not once but twice.

 

Then, to top everything else off, on the final hole when I had already made up my mind that I was going to pull it - and put one of my old reliable drivers back in the bag, I hit the drive of the day. Easily passing everyone else in my group and dead center.

 

Oh no you don't SLDR! I won't be fooled by one great drive like that. Where were you the other 13 holes each round????

 

So yesterday I pulled it. Into the bag went my BC+ with my favorite shaft. I played both yesterday and again today after work. Danny was with me and can attest to how far I was hitting the BC and how many fairways I managed to hit. On the last hole I hit a drive that was just past Danny and he is a LONG hitter!

 

And now I have joined SLDR Anonymous - the former SLDR user's group. For those players who were addicted to the promise of longer drives and who bought into the hype. But who found out the hard way that, while it can be an amazingly long driver, it can also be VERY wild and unmanageable.

 

I could not help but wonder. There are other threads asking what others have gone on to after leaving the SLDR but I don't know of any threads that really asked the most important question; what experiences with the SLDR did you have that led to you pulling it out of the bag? (Forgive me if my search failed - I searched SLDR and didn't see one specific to this question)

 

You can consider this the SLDR Anonymous Meeting place. Feel free to be completely honest. What in the world happened to you that showed you the light of just how evil that long distance driver can really be? For me, the highest score ever since joining my league convinced me it was time for a change.

 

I've had the SLDR since 2013. Used to hit it amazingly well. Then around August of last year I started ripping these crazy low and s*** hooks about 180 yds. Killed my enthusiasm to play for the rest of the season. Got the 2016 M1 430 for Xmas and have played it twice, hit 21 of 27 fairways and it is significantly more forgiving. Also feel like I can move it left to right when I want to (I don't usually try to move the ball cause, well, I'm not good enough).

 

Anyway, love the TM family of drivers and the 430 M1 from last year is a beast. I've got the Oban White 04 or the Fuji Evolution 661 TS X in it depending on how I feel.

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Taylormade provided this very forgiving 'cure' for all the SLDR woes back in 2015...A redesigned SLDR-C (Classic) 460cc clubhead was announced that year. It came after the R15 and AeroBurner, but before the M-Family...Long, straight,and yes, extremely FORGIVING!.. :swoon:

 

These are the key differences from the original 2013 SLDR... :read:

- Lower Profile Crown

- A square clubface that is wider from heel-to-toe

- No draw/fade bias

- Slider mechanism was replaced by a 'speed pocket' (just as with the M2)

- Fixed (bonded) hosel - (no excess heel side weight)

- Plays true-to-loft - (No need to 'loft up' with this one)

- New-for-2015 Gloss Black Color completes the 'Classic' look

- More solid-feeling than the original 460ccc SLDR's.

 

Just get fitted for the right shaft!.. :rolleyes:...(I have a Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s in mine)... :wub:

 

Note: These Drivers are still available brand new at close-out prices!... :good:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(MY CUSTOM SHAFT)

[b]What's in Bobcat's Bag? (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)[/b]

Driver: TM 2015 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s (tipped 1/2")
Fairway: TM Tour-iussue V-Steel 15* 3W - 43.25" Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff
Hybrid Fairway: TM Rescue Fairway 15* '3-Strong'- 42.75" Fujikura VP-90 Stiff
Hybrids: TM Rescue-Mid TP's 19*(3H) & 22*(4H) - Fujikura Vista Pro 90 Stiff
Driving Irons: TM TP UDI's 16* (#1) & 20* (#3) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Shafts
Irons: TM 2015 SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Flex Steel
Hybrid Wedges: Cleveland 2011 Niblicks - 42*PW /49*DW / 56*SW - Stock Steel
Wedge: 2011 Cleveland CG-16 Black Pearl 58*/8* (SW/LW) - Stock Steel Shaft
Putter: Bettinardi BBX-81 Blade - 35" Bettinardi Stock Steel Putter Shaft
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I've had my SLDR TP since 2013, played it for 6 months and put it away in the basement...played the RFX since 2013 (bought right after the SLDR), just this past October, I re-shafted (got re-fitted) the SLDR with a Rogue Silver 125 MSI 60 TX at 44.25", I have to say that it is a monster for me, long, accurate and surprisingly forgiving, it kicked my RFX out of the bag, just yesterday I hit 12 of 14 fairways, the shortest drive was 291, mostly straight or baby fade, I had a good ball striking day overall...my ball position changed a bit since shortening the driver, just a bit further back from inside of my left hill, I've been hitting the best drives "for me" for the past 3 months, the SLDR is a cannon, but I do agree that a fitting has to happen, I bought it new off the shelve and it did not agree with me, I was hitting it great at the demo and at the store, then the honeymoon phase ended and I filed for separation, not divorce, until issues could be resolved...I love the SLDR and it will be in the bag for a long time...

DRIVER: Callaway AI Smoke TD 10.5*, Ventus TR Blue 6TX at 45"
3 WOOD: Callaway Paradym HL 16.5*, Diamana Flower Band White, D+ 82X Flex, tipped 1" at 42"
7 WOOD: Callaway Paradym 21*, Tensei AV white 75g S Flex, tipped 1" at 41"

IRONS: Callaway Apex MB 7-10, CB 4-6 -- DG TI S400

WEDGES: Callaway JAWS Raw 50, 54, 58 -- DG TI S400
PUTTER: SC Phantom 5, Stability Shaft, 33.25", Garsen Quad Tour grip (Toulon Chicago as back up)
BALL: Callaway CT X (current gamer), Srixon Diamond, -ProV1X and ProV1

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I played the SLDR 430 for the last 2 years. Just bought a 2016 M1 460 head and I'm giving that a try. Played it this past weekend and it felt longer and definitely more forgiving. The SLDR was a nice step up from what I had been using previously, but I think it's been passed up big time by newer tech. M1 is likely sticking in the bag.

Titleist TS4 9.5* - Fujikura Speeder 661 TX
Callaway Epic SubZero 13.5* - Fujikura Motore Speeded TS 6.3X
TaylorMade SLDR 2h 17* - Fujikura Pro 83h X
Sub 70 699 ProU 3i 19* - Aerotech Steelfiber 110 X

Sub70 699 5-7i, 699 Pro 8-P - Aerotech Steelfiber 110 X
Maltby Max Milled Wedges .900" - 50* & 56*
Callaway Mack Daddy PM Grind 64*
Bettinardi Queen B #8
Titleist AVX Yellow (Summer) / Srixon Q-Star Tour Yellow (Winter)
Born in the USA, Made in Detroit, Grinding in San Diego

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As with most addictions, someone is probably going to have to develop a 12 step program to get the last SLDR out of the last bag.

Paradym Ai Smoke MAX 10.5  Velocore Red 6S 45" D3

Rogue ST MAX 3,5,7W Velocore  Red 7S 

Srixon ZX4-4, ZX5-5&6, ZX7 7-PW

MODUS 120 S +3/4, D3-D5

SM8 Raw 52 F-12, 56 V,  & 60 V

Scotty Circle T Red Dot 350g Newport 2 (A006794), Pro V1x, Miura Alt bag: 4-PW CB57’s & K Grinds 52,56,60,64 or Fun Bag MP-33 5-PW 

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I use an SLDR and have always been able to crush it. I have had days where it has been awful but the rest of my clubs were too so I can't blame the driver. I do think it is a great driver, although sometimes i feel that i fuss to much with the weight and just need to grip it and rip it, instead of trying to adjust it "one more time".

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I switched to a SLDR TP last season from the original RBZ Tour. I don't usually adopt new tech until it's been outdone by at least 34 yards (2 cycles?) and is available on eBay. The SLDR has so far been the best 50 bucks I've spent on a driver. I have experienced the low duck hooks I've read about here, but they're usually preceded by me swinging out of my shoes. With the RBZ I had a 9* head set to the lowest setting (+/- 7.5*?). With SLDR it's set at 10.5*. Kind of comforting to see so much loft on the head. Feels like I have less work to do.

 

So BigUnit68, you are not alone. That's weird to read back to myself...

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Taylormade provided this very forgiving 'cure' for all the SLDR woes back in 2015...A redesigned SLDR-C (Classic) 460cc clubhead was announced that year. It came after the R15 and AeroBurner, but before the M-Family...Long, straight,and yes, extremely FORGIVING!.. :swoon:

 

These are the key differences from the original 2013 SLDR... :read:

- Lower Profile Crown

- A square clubface that is wider from heel-to-toe

- No draw/fade bias

- Slider mechanism was replaced by a 'speed pocket' (just as with the M2)

- Fixed (bonded) hosel - (no excess heel side weight)

- Plays true-to-loft - (No need to 'loft up' with this one)

- New-for-2015 Gloss Black Color completes the 'Classic' look

- More solid-feeling than the original 460ccc SLDR's.

 

Just get fitted for the right shaft!.. :rolleyes:...(I have a Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s in mine)... :wub:

 

Note: These Drivers are still available brand new at close-out prices!... :good:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(MY CUSTOM SHAFT)

 

So, the solution for most of us is to either re-engineer the SLDR 460 at home or drop $200 on Taylormade's "fix"? And in the interest of full disclosure, I loved the SLDR the first few weeks I owned it, and hit some drives that were far longer than my SS would justify (@90-95 mph). And I played the club for over two years and really tried to make it work with diminishing returns. (And, yes, I had the free fitting that came with purchase, and have tried every setting I can imagine.) I'm not blaming the club; it's probably a great club for folks that swing @105+ and consistently hit it on the screws. And I don't fault my wife, who scanned ads in my golf periodicals then went to the local Van's at Christmas and dropped $400 on the 'next big thing,' with the encouragement of the staff there, to surprise me with it. THE SLDR WAS ALWAYS A NICHE CLUB, in my opinion, and should never have been marketed to the masses. So I say 'shame' to Taylormade, and I'm a humble member now of SLDR-Anonymous--who, by the way, now hits his 17-year-old Ping Tisi Tec Titanium 8.5* ET as far as he ever did his 12* SLDR 460, and much, much straighter.

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Whatever works I suppose, even if it's a 17-year old Ping Driver. I think its safe to say most here would prefer something a bit newer than that, however!.. :)

 

As quoted in your post, a more forgiving SLDR was announced by Taylormade in 2015, and for some of us, this more forgiving version is a beautiful thing, so i am very happy TM announced it! For me it is a tremendous improvement over the original SLDR in every conceivable way! Full disclosure, I do not use the stock shaft in the SLDR-C, but an upgraded shaft that I was fitted for. However, I used an upgraded (TP) shaft when I played the original SLDR Driver too.

 

It is also important to note that I used perimeter counter-weighting on the toe side to make the original SLDR more playable because those original SLDR's were 'heel heavy' and the COG was a bit too forward. The result of that original design was the now familiar, (and all-too-frequent), 'low hook miss'. The heavier heel caused the clubface to close down as the clubhead entered the impact zone. (The lighter weight toe side 'outraces' the heavier heel side resulting in a rapidly closing face at impact).

 

While the counter-weighting 'fix' on the toe side perimeter worked well for me a few years back, I agree with you that this kind of 'home remedy fix' should never have been necessary. The SLDR Tour-issued versions had a heavier material for the cover plate and a toe screw and was better bacause that change acted as a partial counterweight so those were somewhat more forgiving than the Retail versions. As if this wasn't enough, the need to 'loft up' with the original SLDR's was another clear indicator that something was inherently wrong with the SLDR Driver, and some improvements to the original SLDR design were needed.

 

Finally, in mid-2015, (and well after the R15 and AeroBurner Driver had already hit Retail stores), TM announced a much-improved version of the SLDR Driver, (the SLDR-C), and I have been playing it ever since with great success! (No plan to change).

 

Many former users of the (original) 2013-2014 SLDR Drivers have spent far more than the price of the SLDR-C in replacing their original SLDR Drivers, and received less in terms of all-around good performance than what they could have had with the SLDR-C Driver.

 

At the end of the day, it's about making the right choice for you, and there's plenty to choose from... :rolleyes:

 

:golfer:

[b]What's in Bobcat's Bag? (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)[/b]

Driver: TM 2015 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s (tipped 1/2")
Fairway: TM Tour-iussue V-Steel 15* 3W - 43.25" Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff
Hybrid Fairway: TM Rescue Fairway 15* '3-Strong'- 42.75" Fujikura VP-90 Stiff
Hybrids: TM Rescue-Mid TP's 19*(3H) & 22*(4H) - Fujikura Vista Pro 90 Stiff
Driving Irons: TM TP UDI's 16* (#1) & 20* (#3) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Shafts
Irons: TM 2015 SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Flex Steel
Hybrid Wedges: Cleveland 2011 Niblicks - 42*PW /49*DW / 56*SW - Stock Steel
Wedge: 2011 Cleveland CG-16 Black Pearl 58*/8* (SW/LW) - Stock Steel Shaft
Putter: Bettinardi BBX-81 Blade - 35" Bettinardi Stock Steel Putter Shaft
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No, I thank you for the heads-up re: the SLDR-C, Bobcat. I never should have given my wife my Callaway Razrhawk Draw when she gifted me the SLDR 460. Can't get it out of her hands now. Live and learn. In the meantime, I'll give the SLDR one more chance with the weight in full fade position as you suggest.

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Thanks for the heads-up regarding the SLDR-C, Bobcat. My wife actually gifted me the SLDR 460. However, I now think I have to find something else!

 

tucsonsean...

 

Well, the 3rd generation SLDR-C was my initial suggestion for you, but if you want to make that original SLDR Driver of yours work, there is a 'FIX' for that driver's inconsistency problems. This is relatively simple 3-Step Process, and the the details and illustrations below should help make it even easier.

 

The 'SLDR FIX' below will make your current (original) SLDR Driver far more playable and much more consistent than it is right now! This 'fix' will eliminate the dreaded 'low hook miss' which is all too common with the original SLDR Drivers from 2013-2014, both the 430 and the 460cc.

 

Be advised beforehand, that this 'SLDR Fix' is a bit more complicated than simply moving the slider, but you'll find it well worth the extra effort because it will fix the inconsistency problems. I suspect that by now you have already tried the 'extreme fade' setting and found that it does virtually nothing to resolve the 'core problem', (a 'heel heavy' clubhead), nor will it eliminate the dreaded 'low hook miss' caused by a rapidly closing clubface at impact. In fact, for most of us, simply moving the slider to the extreme fade position will have surprisingly little effect, other than a subtle difference in how the SLDR Driver 'feels' at impact with the slider pushed all the way over. Fact is the original SLDR is a 'heel heavy' driver with the CG pushed a bit too forward...an 'unforgiving' weighting scheme. Job #1 for this 'fix' will be to 'balance the clubhead' by adding weight to the toe side of the sole plate, close to the head's perimeter, which is outside the slider track.

 

So, instead of just moving the slider to extreme fade, here is what you really need to do if you want to resolve the dreaded 'low hook' problem once and for all: At the very minimum, this is a 3-step process, and more steps are required if you also want to adjust swingweight after adding the additional head weight.

 

Step #1- Add at least 2-grams of weight on top of the plastic toe plate cover that is located OUTSIDE THE SLIDER TRACK AND NEAR THE PERIMETER ON THE TOE SIDE OF THE CLUBHEAD as shown in Pics #1 and #2 below. (Note the location of the 1/2' black tungsten square weight).

 

Step #2- Then, add another 2-grams of weight in the little cut-out area in the rear part of the soleplate on the toe side, as shown in the pics below. You can use the black 1/2' square rubber tungsten weights from Golfworks as shown in pics #1 and #2, and also in pic #6 below. Each of these 1/2' squares weighs 2-grams which is equal to 1-swingweight, so this is the easiest method.

 

An alternative method would be to use a 2nd blue slider cover and screw, (without any silver weight beneath), for the 1st location, as seen in pic #3), or you could simply use the extra-heavy type of lead tape available from Golfworks also shown in the pic which was used for the rear location. If you use a 2nd 2-gram blue slider cover in the toe plate area, you can also place a rubber/tungsten weight just beneath it to compensate for the lack of the removed toe cover. Just punch a small hole in the center of a rubber/tungsten weight first, place it beneath a blue slider and screw it in. The hole for the screw was pre-drilled by TM, and becomes visible once the toe plate cover and the 2-sided tape that held the cover in place are removed. Use the same size screw as that used by the slider mechanism. The TM wrench is all you need to tighten or remove it.

 

Note that once the toe plate cover is removed, the standard 16-gram silver weight can be removed and exchanged for a lighter silver weight if desired. This may be necessary since the swingweight of the original SLDR Drivers are already on the heavy side even before you added the additional swingweight. TM claims D-4, but with the heavier 77-gram TP shaft, yours may well be heavier. D-6 is very common, and I have seen some as high as D-8 right off the rack. To remove the 16-gram silver weight, you will need to pry off the toe plate cover with a small flat head screwdriver along with the 2-sided tape which holds it on. If you are not careful, you can damage the cover and be unable to replace it. Furthermore, the 2-sided tape that held it in place is not the normal 2-sided tape you find in a hardware store. The food nes is that if needed, replacement toe plate cover kits complete with screw, and new 2-sided tape are available on ebay. (Just search for 'SLDR weights'). It would probably be wise to obtain one of these kits before attempting to remove the toe plate cover unless you are using a 2nd blue slider and screw in place of the a toe cover plate. (A pic of that kit is shown as pic #4 below).

 

The 1/2" square black rubber/tungsten weights are available through Golfworks (item# GW0054) as is the heavier type of lead tape if you had rather use that. The tungsten weights are of the convenient peel-and-stick variety, but that doesn't mean they will hold permanently, and because these could actually fly off at some point during play, you should consider using a stronger bonding agent to secure them once you are satisfied this 'fix' works for you. Be advised however, that bonding agents like epoxy can leave a residue that is very tough or impossible to remove, while a contact cement's residue can usually be peeled off easily.

 

As mentioned above, each of the Golfworks 1/2' rubber/tungsten black squares weighs 2-grams which is equal to 1-swingweight. (See pics below) If the driver feels too heavy after adding 2 full swingweights then you may wish to change the silver weight beneath the blue slider to something less than the 16-gram standard weight. Billy Bob Golf's online store sells SLDR replacement weights ranging from 6 to 12-grams for the SLDR Driver, and has illustrated instructions on how to make the weight swap if you need to do that. (I recommend you that you use silver weights in the range of 8-12 grams). You can probably still find lighter silver weights on ebay as well by searching for 'SLDR weights'. You aslo click on a.pdf file at Billy Bob's Golf to view an illustrated 2-page instruction sheet on how to remove and replace the silver sliding weight on your SLDR Driver.

 

You may be surprised to learn that Tour-issued SLDR Drivers came with either a 9-gram or 11-gram silver weight beneath the blue slider weight cover, because those have the heavier (weighted) toe cover plate and a toe screw holding it down. That in effect, the same kind of 'counter-weighting' you will achieve by using this 'fix'. For 'fine tuning' the slider weight you should know that the blue slider 'cover' itself normally weighs 2-grams and the screw holding that down weighs about the same, but ebay also has heavier weight blue slider covers as well, (4 or 6-grams instead of the standard 2-gram blue cover). See one in pic #5 below.

 

Step #3, the Final Step - Once you have added these weights, it is VERY IMPORTANT that you move the SLDR's sliding weight directly behind the sweetspot which is actually 2-clicks toward fade, (this is not the blue-marked 'neutral' position which is actually a mild draw bias). This is the lowest CG position for the slider weight and the most forgiving position too, once you have the counter-weighting on the toe side as shown in the pics below. the SLDR clubhead is now as well-balanced as it can get.

 

Testing this Fix: I strongly recommend that you use the 'standard' hosel (loft) setting as you begin testing this fix because the weight changes and the recommended sweetspot positioning of the slider will affect the launch angle. This is because the clubface will now tend to remain square at impact, rather than trying to close down prematurely as it nears impact. This will allow you to establish a 'baseline' loft and face angle setting. You can always re-adjust the hosel (loft) setting if needed after the initial test of this fix is complete. For the initial testing, this 'standard loft setting also ensures you are using a perfectly 'square' face angle setting which is very important for the initial testing of this fix.

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

By the way, all of this information was previously provided in an older thread entitled 'What's wrong with the SLDR Driver?'. However, it has been several years now since that thread came out, so worth a re-post!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

WHY THIS FIX WORKS: The reason this fix works is because it takes very little weight at the perimeter to change how fast the face closes at impact. By placing more weight on the toe side, you are simply balancing out the SLDR clubhead so the toe side doesn't rotate around the clubhead's CG faster than the heel side does, thereby closing down the face prior to impact. You are not going to change the CG one bit by doing this, but as the Pro's know, it takes very little weight to change the speed of a closing clubface when that extra weight is placed very near the clubhead's perimeter. Of course, this is one reason why there is still widespread use of lead tape on Tour and lead tape is also useful for adding head weight, (and increasing swingweight).

 

As mentioned at the outset, this 'home remedy 'fix' will make the original SLDR driver much more playable and consistent. A better-balanced clubhead is far less likely to close down prematurely at impact. This 'fix' is applicable to both the original SLDR 460cc Retail models and the Retail 430 as well! It is not intended for Tour-issued SLDR Drivers because those have a different type weighting scheme that included some added 'hot melt' that was applied just above the soleplate, and inside the clubhead..

 

 

Note the (2) locations of the black rubber tungsten 1/2" square weights in pics #1 and #2

 

In pic #3 below, a blue slider cover & screw were used for location #1 with lead tape in the rear toe slot.

Pic #4 - Replacement slider weight kit with toe plate cover, screw, and 2-sided tape

Pic #5 - Blue weight cover - 2-grams standard, (4-gram & 6-gram available)

Pic #6 - 10 rubber/tungsten weights - #GW0054

[b]What's in Bobcat's Bag? (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)[/b]

Driver: TM 2015 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s (tipped 1/2")
Fairway: TM Tour-iussue V-Steel 15* 3W - 43.25" Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff
Hybrid Fairway: TM Rescue Fairway 15* '3-Strong'- 42.75" Fujikura VP-90 Stiff
Hybrids: TM Rescue-Mid TP's 19*(3H) & 22*(4H) - Fujikura Vista Pro 90 Stiff
Driving Irons: TM TP UDI's 16* (#1) & 20* (#3) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Shafts
Irons: TM 2015 SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Flex Steel
Hybrid Wedges: Cleveland 2011 Niblicks - 42*PW /49*DW / 56*SW - Stock Steel
Wedge: 2011 Cleveland CG-16 Black Pearl 58*/8* (SW/LW) - Stock Steel Shaft
Putter: Bettinardi BBX-81 Blade - 35" Bettinardi Stock Steel Putter Shaft
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Yeah the sldr is a different animal. When I used to have one i remember feeling like I smoked it but it ended up being a pull hook that was sometimes in the trees. I still the only club I've had to this day where I've had that happen.

 

I came here to say this exact thing. This is the only driver where off the face it feels like you absolutely mashed the ball only, and then you look up to follow the flight and you see it starting left and making a nosediving, hard-left turn and then some more left once it hits the ground. Incredibly frustrating stick because there were always one or 2 a round where you would hit absolute bombs with it. Never again

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SLDR 15* Fairway refuses to leave my bag. Perfect headshape. Deep-ish face. Great sound. Solid all around. Shafted with a Motore Speeder 8.1. But I did order an M2 Tour which may give it a run.

M3 9.5* - Fujikura 757TR
M5 15* - Fujikura Speeder 8.1
M1 5W - Fujikura Speeder 8.1
P760 3i - KBS $ Taper Black
P730 5-PW - KBS $ Taper Black
Milled Grind 50 & 55 DG TI Onyx
Hi-Toe 60 DG TI Onyx
Spider X Navy

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SLDR 15* Fairway refuses to leave my bag. Perfect headshape. Deep-ish face. Great sound. Solid all around. Shafted with a Motore Speeder 8.1. But I did order an M2 Tour which may give it a run.

 

No issues that I know of with the original SLDR fairways and hybrids, unless you include the lower-than-most launch. (Many prefer the original SLDR 3HL Fairway over the standard 15* 3W).

 

All opinions are welcomed even though the focus has been on issues/complaints surrounding the original (2013-2014) SLDR Drivers...and most specifically, their lack of forgiveness and tendency for a 'low hook miss' that seems to just come 'out the blue' even when you felt you made a good swing.

 

Still plenty of those older 'unforgiving' SLDR drivers out there however, although many of them now reside in the closet or garage, rather than in a golf bag.

 

In contrast, the SLDR Fairways are a bit more reliable and plenty of people still love them!

 

:golfer:

[b]What's in Bobcat's Bag? (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)[/b]

Driver: TM 2015 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s (tipped 1/2")
Fairway: TM Tour-iussue V-Steel 15* 3W - 43.25" Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff
Hybrid Fairway: TM Rescue Fairway 15* '3-Strong'- 42.75" Fujikura VP-90 Stiff
Hybrids: TM Rescue-Mid TP's 19*(3H) & 22*(4H) - Fujikura Vista Pro 90 Stiff
Driving Irons: TM TP UDI's 16* (#1) & 20* (#3) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Shafts
Irons: TM 2015 SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Flex Steel
Hybrid Wedges: Cleveland 2011 Niblicks - 42*PW /49*DW / 56*SW - Stock Steel
Wedge: 2011 Cleveland CG-16 Black Pearl 58*/8* (SW/LW) - Stock Steel Shaft
Putter: Bettinardi BBX-81 Blade - 35" Bettinardi Stock Steel Putter Shaft
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right now I think that I own 3 SLDR heads, an R1, and a plethora of shafts. All purchased last year in shaft experiment. I have found that the heads vary a lot. I cant hit my tour issue head well at all, but hit the retail head much better. Longer than the R1, but I like the R1 a lot.

 

I am coming from a 905R, which I still go back to when swing inconsistencies come about. had an 816DBD and G30 also......SLDR is just flat out longer.

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The SLDR 430 JDM is an absolute hot-rod. It demands your full attention as any lapse either mentally or physically will cost you dearly. I bagged an 10* with a TP6HDX for over a year and it is consistently the longest driver I've ever swung. I can't say it's fun to hit because after you've mashed one that "felt like" you'd hit your all-time best only to see it headed OB on the carry, you develop an apprehension on the tee that begins to effect your whole game. In other words it can produce a drive or two that will make you want to challenge DJ or JD. Then in the same round it will humble you to the point you are afraid/ashamed to brandish it on the tee box. On a winter day a year and a half ago, common sense and the need for consistency prevailed. So I built me a JBeam BM-435 with a TP7HDX. It's as long as the SLDR and offers the consistency and "freeswingability" I'd lost during the SLDR days.

 

PS

 

I let one of my playing partners "borrow" the SLDR a few months ago. He's a young lad and can absolutely blister the ball. He has hit a few balls lately over 340 (GPS confirmed). He is now seeking psychological counseling .....

 

 

The answer to better golf is hit it better, farther, and make more putts.

 

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OK, that's it, I've had it. All for free speech, but wtf can we do with Bobcat? Is there a block option somewhere? If not I'm going to stop reading SLDR threads and switch to another driver.

SLDR 430 Speeder TS7.2
913F 15 Speeder 8.1
Bio Cell + 5 wood Speeder 7.0
910H
MP25 4,6-9 PX 6.0ss
VR Forged 46, 50, 54, 58 S400
Pro Platium Newport

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Well jmilt13, I've actually heard people say their (original) SLDR Driver seems 'bipolar', but clearly the term 'bipolar' is best reserved for those who author posts like the one above... :glare:

 

You can always stop reading SLDR threads and switch to another driver, but at the very least man......

 

Get a Grip!...

 

 

Now back to topic!.. :)

 

:golfer:

[b]What's in Bobcat's Bag? (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)[/b]

Driver: TM 2015 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s (tipped 1/2")
Fairway: TM Tour-iussue V-Steel 15* 3W - 43.25" Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff
Hybrid Fairway: TM Rescue Fairway 15* '3-Strong'- 42.75" Fujikura VP-90 Stiff
Hybrids: TM Rescue-Mid TP's 19*(3H) & 22*(4H) - Fujikura Vista Pro 90 Stiff
Driving Irons: TM TP UDI's 16* (#1) & 20* (#3) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Shafts
Irons: TM 2015 SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Flex Steel
Hybrid Wedges: Cleveland 2011 Niblicks - 42*PW /49*DW / 56*SW - Stock Steel
Wedge: 2011 Cleveland CG-16 Black Pearl 58*/8* (SW/LW) - Stock Steel Shaft
Putter: Bettinardi BBX-81 Blade - 35" Bettinardi Stock Steel Putter Shaft
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My name is sean, and I relapsed just the other day.

...i put my SLDRS back in the bag.

I tried the M2, i went back to my old 910, I tried to be reasonable, and smart.

But man, when you catch that SLDR right...wooooaaahhhh bombs.

 

I put it in a HZRDUS black shaft and cut it down to 44.5", help hit the center of the face.

should be noted i embraced the 'loft up' campaign and have a head that i don't even want to list the loft of on here.

 

also putting a aeroburner mini back in the bag. at 14* i can hit it off the deck reasonably well, and it serves as the necessary accurate driving wood for tight holes.

 

...i guess i found a way to replace one club in my bag with two. not the best math, but i can tinker with the best of them.

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I bought an SLDR when I was ready to try something against my aging G20. I got a screaming deal on a 10.5* 460 with an Oban Kiyoshi black x shaft, and I was so excited to take it out. I still am not sure I have ever hit that combo higher than 13 feet in the air at apex. So did I step away or did I double down? This is WRX, so I bought another, a 12* 430 with one of the stock shafts. I hated that too. So I bought an Aldila Tour Blue in a stiff to see if I could get that sucker to fly, but it just unleashed an unholy hook. So now I have 3 shafts, 2 heads, and ZERO combinations I enjoy playing. I cannot wait to figure out what is next, because I am done with this nonsense.

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I ordered another head off ebay cuz it was only 50 bucks and I still have a shaft with a tm adapter on it.

 

I'm in the minority here but I never found the sldr to be way less forgiving and never found the "loft up" to be needed either.

 

I have the same shaft in the sldr and my ping ls. Gonna do a head to head in both. Both are 10.5 loft.

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SLDR 15* Fairway refuses to leave my bag. Perfect headshape. Deep-ish face. Great sound. Solid all around. Shafted with a Motore Speeder 8.1. But I did order an M2 Tour which may give it a run.

 

No issues that I know of with the original SLDR fairways and hybrids, unless you include the lower-than-most launch. (Many prefer the original SLDR 3HL Fairway over the standard 15* 3W).

 

The main thread focus here is on issues/complaints surrounding the original (2013-2014) SLDR Drivers...and most specifically, their lack of forgiveness and tendency for a 'low hook miss' that seems to just come 'out the blue' even when you felt you made a good swing.

 

Still plenty of those older SLDR drivers out there however, although many of them now reside in the closet or garage, rather than in a golf bag.

 

:golfer:

 

The tour issued sldr I have is much better than retail. Head weight is 193 and the sliding weight is green. It feels much different and the launch isn't so low. I had a horrible experience with the retail heads similar to the above mentioned. Drop kick hooks.

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